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What is the Excel File password?
I don't remember there being a password required for it
Any plans to design a nacel for it?
No, but I think there's at least one in the remixes
Is there anywhere I can find an assembly guide? I'm not sure where to start putting it together.
Just watched, looks about right!
so the supports don't work with a few version of Prusa slicer I tried..
The supports appear in 3D mode, but when sliced disappear.
Are the supports to thin maybe? the base is still there.
I have a Prusa Mk3, and I sliced mine with Slic3r PE (what Prusa Slicer used to be called).
I can confirm that it does indeed work with that slicer.
I'll upload by print profiles when I get home if you want to use them.
Off of the top of my head, all I can think about is the setting that is something like "detect thin walls" or something.
...but it does in-fact work
I'll also add that you can't print it without additional custom supports. Even if yours showed up there, the print would still fail. You need some additional supports for some overhang sections.
Skip to ~1:40 in my guide to see what I mean: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M0HUuVfpN38
Here's my profiles - Slic3r PE (PrusaSlicer) - Prusa Mk3.
I can answer this -- I printed out this model on my Prusa i3 MK3.
The supports are too thin for the Prusa Slic3r, yes. They're one layer thick, and Slic3r can't seem to handle it. Simplify3D has a setting you can enable that can handle it, but I don't think it's worth doing. I used normal supports on slic3r for both of those parts, and it handled both models perfectly.
I've attached my support settings in case you're interested at all.
Hello ! Amazing work !
Can you please precise for each part the printing precision and the infill please.
Moreover, can you please give us the reference for the PLA you used.
And maybe a link to buy them ? :)
Thank you in advance.
I used Hatchbox PLA from Amazon. Decent stuff.
If you scroll down a bit (or search for my name in the comments), I uploaded a stackup from my first print of this. That has part, time, layer height, PLA, color, weight (supported & unsupported), etc.
I've now completed 4 of these engines (printing for friends as we all work on engine design for a living). So, I've got a slightly updated stackup I could put out this evening if you'd like.
For anyone with a Prusa Mk3 or Mk3s, I also have all of the G-Code saved...so I guess I could zip that up.
What tools would you recommend for these small nuts and hex pieces. Finding it nearly impossible to put together due to where the screws are expected to be placed.
I used a flathead screwdriver for the screws/bolts...because I didn't have the right head attachment.
Using needle nose pliers can help get stuff in the right position and to hold things in place when turning.
The thing that REALLY helped though were Like these: https://www.amazon.com/LASHVIEW-Anti-static-Stainless-Profissional-Electionics/dp/B01M3RIMPE/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=angled+tweezers&qid=1557328279&s=gateway&sr=8-6
The angled tweezers really helped me get stuff in in the right spot and into some of the harder to reach areas.
I found that after I the washer and nut on the screw, it was pretty simple to tighten down.
Hi BChapy, what exactly did you mean by "does not hollow out correctly" when printing the NOZZLE??? Thanks in advance!
Here's what I was talking about. Look at the blue-ish highlighted area (middle pic). Ignore most of the excess supports.
It's fine that it's hollow in there - it saves from needing infill.
Unfortunately, with it being hollow, it wants to add support in there. For that reason, I just had to do custom support enforcers/blockers.
Thanks for the advice. Do you have any idea what is going on with my supports (please see the picture)? I have seen this before but I have no idea what causes it - oh, and the model itself is just fine and I am printing it quite slow at 30 and 18 mm/s.
As for the internal supports inside the NOZZLE: I stated that the supports must be at least 1,5 mm far from the nearest wall in the X/Y directions and I put an overhang of 80° - that way it only generates supports where the overhang is 90° dead on - that means in the middle of the model and on the very outside. It will not create supports in the hollow part. But I am using Cura 4.0.
Wow, those are some nasty supports!
Sorry, no idea what's causing that...
Luckily though, it seems to be holding the general shape pretty well...so it might actually complete successfully.
The other thing I'll mention is elephants foot. See if there is a setting in cura to offset it. You've got a pretty strong one at the base it looks like.
There also sorta seems to be on on the top of your lower flange... But idk why that would be. All I can think of is warping. Are you using PLA, what temp, is the bed heated, are your cooling fans working?
I am using original Ultimaker PLA: 210 on the head and 60 on the bed. I know about my elephant foot issue and I just cut it down with a surgical razor (the really sharp ones used in surgeries - I like them more then a traditional hobby knife) or sand it a bit. I can lift it off the bed slightly but then I am affraid of poor adhesion. Once I figure out what is causing the nasty support stringing I will tell you all. I have seen it in many prints on different printers. Next time I might try using "concentric" supports (in Cura 4.0).
If I remember correctly, there was a section of the nozzle that is hollow, but completely enclosed.
Due to the geometry of the part, I needed to have supports enabled.
The part was supported properly, but then this section of the nozzle also had supports in it. They were all internal, so there would be no way to remove them. I would have thought that it would just put infill in there normally...but it didn't.
To get around this, I created "support enforcers" in Fusion 360...and used those to mark the areas in Slic3r that I wanted it to add supports. Alternatively, I could have used a "blocker" to block supports from that area.
If I remember, I'll try to take a screenshot of it tonight.
Everything printed fine, and it would have probably been fine without me "fixing" anything. I just didn't want it to waste material putting supports on an internal area where they clearly weren't needed.
Tweezers and some small pliers were what I used in addition to small wrenches
I find the HPC and LPT Stages custom supports pretty difficult to remove. You might want to consider making those supports narrower - like just a stripe in the middle. The rest should not be a problem to bridge.
Hi, I have a question about the STAND. I am using an Ultimaker so the original stand will not fit on my buildplate. If I use the file "7mm_Shrink_to_Fit_Ultimaker" will it fit the model fine or is it advised to print the 3 "Cut_in_Half" files?
Thank you for the help!
7 mm shrink is fine. The difference between that and the normal one is the ends on the base don't curve out as much, but the vertical parts are in the same location.
I assume 7mm shrink means that the parts of the stand touching the engine will be 7mm closer? I don't have a slicer handy at the moment...so I can't check here.
If that is indeed what it means, then you should be fine. I'd say there's about an inch of wiggle room.
Hi, I decided to print this beautiful model - so I will be posting some questions as I dig deeper. I am using an Ultimaker 2+, grey metallic and white PLA. I already have all the needed hardware and bearings (but I will be sure to try YnvHrs bearings also). I will also be glad to post some of my settings to help anyone that goes for this challenge.
QUESTION: Does the FAN need extra slicer generated supports or are the custom supports enough to do the job? When I turn on supports in Cura 4.0 it looks like a big mess I will have to clean up afterwards.
If you scroll down a bit, you'll see a stackup that I posted and a few tips...as well as a YT vid - but that probably won't help too much.
If the spinner tip is giving an issue, that's kinda strange. It's one of the simplest parts. Hopefully you don't need to do much troubleshooting for the other parts!
The fan doesn't need anything beyond the custom supports. My tip for the fan, is to slow things down. Each blade is narrow/tall, so it may get some wobble if you go too quickly. I've printed 4 of these now...and even though it's taking 50% longer to print the fan than it did for my first one, slowing things down makes it look MUCH nicer.
Thank you for the advice. I found your YT videos about this print so there will not be as many questions after all. I recomend everyone who wants to print this model to see your videos!
I am printing the FAN right now - made it go real slow (14mm/s) - this will take about 2 days. So far everything looks fine after one night. Ultimaker is one of the fastest printers out there but speed meens lack of quality so I had to slow things down this time...
UPDATE: The SPINNER CONE came out very nice: Basic settings 0.1mm layer, 30% infill, slowed everything down to 40% on Ultimaker2+, looks very smooth.
Hi all and jet engine designer ! thanks for amazing model!
i made the 2 type of bearing is needed 6003 & 6204 for print ! working better then steel !
6003 : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3517283
6204 : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3517346
thanks again and ENJOY printing
Hi sorry to ask is there a smaller scale of the print? the half size couldn't fit on my the printer I am using
I scaled the whole model down to 70% of the original size and it printed fine.
I replaced the bearings with some printed "spacers" instead ( I also don't spin it, just a display)
I feel like going smaller would cause some serious issues with clearances/tolerances...not to mention the hardware for assembly.
What size print-bed do you have?
I am looking at 150mm by 150mm by 150mm,
I don't recall the exact dimensions of all of the parts, but the sectioned parts should work for you, right?
There are versions of all of the larger parts (still full-scale), but cut into 2-3 sections.
I have a 250x210x210 (ish) print bed. I was able to easily fit each component on there. I feel that with the split models, you should be able to fit stuff on your bed. If you've already tried this, which part(s) are you running into issues with?
Just finished my assembly guide:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AfvY2CTTjUE
...it's just a short un-narrated version...but should help some people out
I also plan to release a more detailed (and narrated) version where I discuss some learnings and walk through the assembly process.
Some stats for my build:
Attached is a stackup showing each part.
What print speed did you print at? Thank you for the Stackup sheet...
Here's a screenshot of speeds. As I said, I varied stuff a lot...but these give the general settings.
It varied for a lot of parts.
For example, the cases could be done a bit faster, and the fan needed to be the slowest.
I'll post a screenshot of my Slic3r speed settings sometime this evening.
This was my first "real" print though, so I did a lot of tinkering with settings as I learned more about what I was doing...so the speeds weren't very consistent across parts.
I just finished printing the final part!
Hopefully I'll get some free time to assemble this weekend or next week.
A few notes on troublesome pieces:
The Fan - Make sure you print slow to get a nice finish. The supports are a bit of pain to get cleanly off near the tip. It would be nice if the included supports had a bit more "gap areas" near the tip
The Fan Casing - not really an "issue", but it uses a lot of support material that is sorta unnecessary. When I print another for a friend, I'll be using this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2971184 It won't require support material, and there's no need for the flange on the front.
Combustion Liner - The only added support needed is a thin sheet right in the middle. I used this remix model which has is included: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2441852 Unfortunately, the model they used is low-poly, so it's not as clean, but when it's printed int's not that noticeable. I also had a few stringy bits on that flange where it seemed to have issues, but it was easily cleaned up.
Other than that, the prints went pretty smoothly.
This was my first major print after setting up my printer in late November. The complexities associated with getting clean parts and setting up the proper supports really forced me to dial things in. This gave me a much better understanding of my printer and slicer.
Thanks again to @CATIAV5FTW for posting this. This is truly an amazing model!
I probably don't have the most efficient g-code, but I've seen a lot of questions on here about time/material/layers/assembly/etc. I've recorded my data, and once I have everything assembled, I'll upload an assembly guide with some info about the parts.
What could be the solution for skipping layers
Hello i/m having problem with printing many parts, trued slicerPE also simplify3D my printer is prusa i3 mk2s trued fixing STL with netfabb but the results are still the same. Here are pictures for example
Looks like your printer is skipping layers, resulting in the filament coming out of the nozzle not having a layer underneath to stick to. Are all the layers showing up in the print preview?
in print preview all layers are showing but when i'm actual printing ot on some layers printer prints only one dote but not a whole layer. Here are the previews picture i trued two layer height 150 micron and 250 micron
Have you tried printing some other parts with these same settings (and same filament)?
If not, give that a shot to make sure your printer/settings are still correct.
It's pretty hard to tell what's going on from those images.
Based on the lines/strings going around the inside of the circle, it almost looks like it's printing an overhang that is too steep. I'm not sure why it would be doing that unless you were printing it upside down. I can't tell for sure, but it doesn't look like they're upside down.
Due to the thickness of the strings, I don't think it's normal "stringing", it's more like the filament isn't depositing/sticking between layers very well. If I had to guess, I'd say that either the temperature is too low (maybe?) or your live-z adjustment is too high. Have you tried running a live-z test to calibrate the nozzle height?
I would also recommend bumping it down and only print 1 part at a time until you have your settings dialed in.
For what it's worth, I have a Prusa i3 mk3, and those printed with no issue for me.
Filament is from prusa store white and silver i had this problem on many parts but on some of them repair from netfabb helped but only on some of files.
Temperature i use 215 and 230 too
First layer is great.
on som of the files like fan stator printer is not printing whole layer it's prints only some of the dots of that layer like in picture
here are my printer settings
I'm sort of new to this also but 215-230 seems ways too hot. I printed mine at 210.
Maybe I'm missing it (as I'm not familiar with that software), but what layer height are you using?
As the OP pointed out, it kinda looks like it's skipping layers. I would say to try re-exporting the code...but it's happening on a lot of models it looks like.
Try using a G-Code viewer to ensure that it is actually making code for each layer.
As for the question about "upside down". if the STL is upside down, some of the overhangs won't print well. When they don't print well, the layers don't stick and cause an issue similar to yours. But yours is happening on vertical walls (no overhang), so that doesn't appear to be the issue.
i trued to re export the gcode and in preview of simplify3d or in slicer all layers are at right place. i used Layer height is 150 micron and 250 micron maybe it's reasonable to true on 50 micron?
and what you mean on upside down? is it problem if i place stl upside down on bed?
Thank you for your help. There is a way to manually rotate but it doesn't always snap to the true angle. I was looking for a way to enter an angle. I'll take a look at Slic3r as you suggest.
The version of Slicer I have allows for a few rotation settings:
The last one is probably what you're looking for, and is certainly the most used (I'd be surprised if Cura doesn't have it). Basically, it highlights various planes that you can select. Upon selecting a side, the object will rotate and make that the new "base"
The .stl files seem to be oriented vertically. I don't seem to see a way in Cura to orient them horizontally for printing. Any help would be appreciated.
There's a button on the left side tool bar in cura that allows you to rotate the part to a different orientation.
Thank you for your help.
I haven't used Cura, but there's got to be a way. If you can't figure it out, I'd recommend downloading Slic3r PE. You don't need to use it for slicing if you don't want to...but you can import the model, it's very easy to orient correctly, and then re-export the STL file.
I've printed everything in PLA on my ender 3 and it went really, really well, with the exception of the (I think) high pressure rotors (the ones directly behind the big fan) -- the first layers are VERY solidly attached to the bed, but as the individual vanes are built they will pull right off of the lower layers and start warping upward. I've tried a number of variations (hot bed, cold bed, different print temps) but the fins always break away from the first layer after a while. Any tips? https://imgur.com/SIIlJM0 and https://imgur.com/FvHbzHh, ignore the tape lifting off the glass in the second one.
How does your "ring" (for a lack of better words) look? Any separation on there?
It's hard to tell from this distance (and with that color) but what is your layer height like? Too high of a layer height could be an issue, but I doubt it with this print.
Printing at too low of a temp could cause the layers to not adhere well. Printing too hot could cause some warping.
I'm also wondering if cooling could be an issue. Do you have your nozzle cooling fan on?
The last thing I can think of is the material you're using. Perhaps that material is prone to shrinkage? To test this, perhaps print a hollow cube? Have you printed other parts of the engine in this color yet? If so, which ones?
I haven't printed these parts myself yet - I hope to probably this weekend.
These are fantastic comments and questions, thank you for taking the time to try to help!
The only separation occurs on the fins; the ring (the part that will slide on to the main engine) is solid. Layer height is 0.16mm (experimented, this seems to be my general go-to for layer height for this printer). I've been trying various temperatures as that was my best guess as well, but they all seem to split around the same point in the print. I've also tried with and without the cooling fan, thinking that perhaps it was cooling down too fast and splitting as it warped. There was no appreciable change there.
The material is actually a very good point -- the rest of the engine I have printed with black or white PLA. This is the only neon green that I've printed on this. I should kick off a black PLA print and see what it does. It simply never occurred to me that this particular PLA might be more prone to shrinking!
Thank you again so very much for the tips and suggestions. I really hope it's not the plastic, since that colour is going to look amazing on the engine, but at the same point, I kind of hope it is, because my son's been dying for me to finish this for him since I first started it back in October. :-)
No problem. I'm fairly new to this - just got my printer in Nov, but I've learned a lot :p
Another thing to try, is to slice a section (maybe only 3 blades) and try printing that. If you only do a 1-blade section, it won't get ample cooling time between layers & can invalidate the test.
If the ring is looking good all around, I'm not sure it would be any bed leveling stuff, unless the size of the ring can overcome the error. Is this detachment consistent around the entire set of blades? If not perhaps it is something with z-calibration - but then again, I would have thought you'd see that in other parts.
wow I think you're right, it was the PLA. I printed one of them in my black filament and it was perfect. In fact a little hard to separate the supports. I reloaded with the MG Chemicals glow in the dark filament and it started failing at exactly the point I described -- right where the single extrusions met the support. I am bumping the temp up to 235 (was at 220) and trying again and if this still fails, I'm pitching it.
is an assembly guide available?
Not from me, but there are a bunch of assembly videos on youtube if you search this.
Thanks for reply, I found my way ...
Does anyone have a complete parts build that i could buy. The design looks awesome but im struggling to print the parts correctly
I'll possibly be able to. I'll pm you later.
After staring at this site for 2 months now, I finally decided to make an account. I've been using my spare time at home to start printing this model, as it's amazing! This is my first big print, and I'm learning a ton while trying to get settings dialed in.
I have all of the black parts done with no issues - other than a few dots inside the spiral of the spinner cone (at the retraction areas), but the white stripe covers that up nicely.
I just finished the last of the white parts this weekend. I only had 1 minor issue with flanges/supports, but everything seems to be going nicely. Some of the parts require additional supports beyond what is provided as the author indicated. For those, I've had the best luck designing the "support volumes" in Fusion 360, and then using Slic3r's "support enforcer" thing. It makes it really nice to just generate supports where needed, and not waste a bunch supporting other parts.
One part that seemed strange to me was the "nozzle" near the exit. When slicing, there is a large hollow/shelled area. I was surprised that the slicer made this hollow (and wanted to add supports for some reason), instead of making it solid.
This week I plan to dial in the settings on my grey PLA, and start printing the grey parts this weekend!
I have a few friends who want one of these made as well, so I've been saving my G-Code, and making an excel sheet with:
There's been a lot of questions about those things, so I'll upload that spreadsheet when I'm done :)
Thanks again to the author for this amazing model!
are there any direct gcode files?
I haven't uploaded any
Hey guys! Maybe someone can help me out with a quick and probably simple question... Correct me if I am wrong but it seems as though there is double of every print becasue some come with the recommended supports and some don't? Of course I am ok with printing it with recommended supports but I am wondering if I am opening everything in cura and its orientation is opening up correctly. I would make the orientation different but if that is the way it is supposed to be I wont mess with it. any help appreciated
There's double of certain parts to give you the option of printing the version with custom supports or without. I explained it in the description ;)
There is a zip file that contains images of all each file in the correct orientation.
I'm using Slic3R PE, and most files come in flipped sideways, IDK about your software.
For the most part, it's pretty clear which side should be down for the best results - so if the file doesn't look right when you import it, just change it. I mainly just flip it to what I think is right...but then if I'm not sure, I'll check the zip images he has.
Could anyone get me approximate dimensions of the assembled product?
It's fairly big, uses lots of filament, about 2 KG. I haven't put it together yet, but with all the parts printer I'd say is about 40-45 CM long by 25-30 Cm high and about 20 CM wide, is massive. By far the largest object I've printed.
OK.....Ive tried to filter through all the comments and I am not finding it. I have everything printed and was assembling it when I noticed a missing part. Perhaps you can help me. I have SCOURED every inch of the file from thingiverse and I CANNOT for the life of me find the .stl for the "low pressure spool" to save my life. The casing and all 4 stages are there but no spool? Might that file have been left out by accident, if so, how can I get it?
It's there... Look for LPT_spool
I have it in my downloads, I'll check when I get home and upload it and get the link for you. I just printed it last night
Here's the direct link https://www.thingiverse.com/download:2421619 hope it helps
As anyone had any issues with interference between the low pressure turbines and their stators? I'm have serious rubbing and, once I attach the last section of the case, it nearly locks up the entire engine.
It's a common issue that I encountered also. My printer axes weren't quite square.
very nice model, thank you for sharing.
Could you make a model of the GE-90 with working reverse thrust like the one posted on youtube several years ago?
Also having a tough time printing the front fan stator case. mine looks the same as the guys below. everything else was printing good. dont know how to fix this.
Thanks, I am not very educated on using a 3d printer, not sure how to check things in slicer, and I have an inexpensive printer the Ender 3.I have just about everything else printed and all else looks good! May have to pay someone later to print it for me
Just got mine printed over the weekend. From those images, it looks like only some of the built-in supports were printing, thus causing spaghetti in places where it wasn't. Make sure those are appearing in your slicer, and then watch the first few layers to ensure that they are all being printed.
The only issue I ran into with the part was on the hanging ring (bottom of 3rd circle from inside - 2nd from outside).
Those images look like there was no support used for those rings. IDK if you can get away with that, I added some supports in under there. If that's not supported properly, you could get a mess getting spat out when it's trying to start that feature. I imagine you'd also be running into some issues on the outside top flange if you don't have support there either.
Any reason against ZZ or 2RS ball bearings instead of open ones?
You can still buy a sealed bearing and just pull the plastic seal off on both sides with a pick or razor blade/small screw driver. They are cheaper and easier to buy on amazon that way.
Sealed bearings don't spin freely like open bearings.
Any reported issues with printing the Front Fan Stator Case? I have tried three times and the front get bad at the same point each time. eSun PLA+ using Pretty Profile. I have tried with supports and without. Can't seem to figure out.
I used CURA 3.6 and I used the no support version, I let CURA do the automatic supports, I did notice that even the file that says with supports, there are lots of parts in mid-air, basically the supports that come with the file are for the blades, many parts of the model are in mid-air. Give that a shot to the non-support version and let the slicer software do the auto supports, I think I used like 14-16 % support density and 3 walls.
That part seems to be the one people have issues with when they have print problems. It's a complex part, I suppose. Looks like on yours, the stator supports aren't getting printed consistently. Some are missing, possibly because the slicer thinks they're too thin. Does the print preview show all the supports?
Hello the photo attached below is super helpful but we only see part of the build is there any way you could realize the document like the parts list?
Here's the full picture. Thingiverse started cutting off the sides of the pictures for some reason.
After 2 months of printing, I finally set up an assembly workshop with some colleagues. It took us 4 hours to assemble.
Wonderful results !
Thanks a lot for the design.
Printed in 3 weeks at 0.1!, Now it's time to paint it and then mount it. What steps have you followed to mount it? Only with the images or some extra help? Thank you!
I used the "labeled view" provided and the video done by somebody else : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5hD_ZGOuvJE
Hi is there a smaller scale that I can print? as the half STL files would not fit for my school printer
Hi there, approximately how many meters of filament was used to complete this build?
I did not record how long filament I used (anyway it's not an information you can easily use to order) but It's about 1,2 kg of PLA according to my slicer Cura. Sometimes you can see that a spool of 1kg contains around 300m to 400m.
Hi i am loving this model having a great time making it. have you had other comments that i havent seen about the fan casing and supports cut in 2 sections not alligning properly? it seems like one of the screw holes spots is cut and then the spot where it should be on the pther section is not there. Thank you.
Are you still having problems with this? Did you try aligning the other end?
yes i am if your count the number of notches for screws the 2 part files has a total number of one less than the full size one. The split one has a tiny nub of one on it that would even it out if it was full. am i crazy or is this true?
I'm going to have a friend print this, how big is it, should I got with IN or mm?
Hey, awesome design. I was wondering what the name of the file was for the piece directly to the left of the mixer?(photo 2)
That's the nozzle, which can be printed with or without the custom supports
I am in the assembly stage, maybe I missed something in the build but, I cant figure out what drives the HP stages's ? They don't seem to be attached to the fan or the LPT's?
In a functioning jet engine, the high pressure turbine, which is just in front of the low pressure stage, drives the high pressure compressor stage.
Thank you for that information. It is assembled and working.
are supports needed to print the top (when you are printing them) screw holes of the casings ?
I am guessing that you are talking about the horizontal overhangs and if that is the case, yes, you need supports
Yes, it's about those. Thanks
I am trying to slice the nozzle in particular at 100% (using Prusa Edition Slic3r) and even then it thinks that the custom supports are too thin to print... 107% doesn't do it, but I got up to 110% and the custom supports came out in the preview. Any help here?
@CATIAV5FTW have you tried slicing the models with custom supports with Slic3r PE?
I know it's been a few months since this comment...but if you're still looking at trying to fix things, I'm using Slic3r PE. I have all of the white/black done, and I'm starting on the grey. Everything has printed fine so far.
No, I just have Simplify3D. The minimum thickness for everything was .4 mm, since that's the perimeter width I use.
I haven't tried printing it yet (because sometimes the preview isn't exact) but I am also using 0.4 nozzle. Is there any way that I could finagle it to where I don't have to up size it? I am not capable in CAD software to widen the supports... :(
Can you give a scale for this engine?
Depending on which engine you compare it to, it can be anywhere from 1:7 to 1:14 scale. Maybe 1:10 is a happy medium.
I found the bearing on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CUNOB2C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)Two (2) 6003-2RS Sealed Bearings 17x35x10 Ball Bearings / Pre-Lubricated (Pack of 2)
This link no longer displays the for sale bearing (6003 open ball bearing 17x35x10 (quantity 2) http://www.onlinebearingstore.com/6003-ball-bearing-17x35x10-open.html) Does it really matter which 6003 bearing I use? If so, can you reference another for me that will work with this amazing piece of work? Thanks for doing this. I am using it in my 8th grade Aero Science class.
Kinda late, but I found this. It's an open ball bearing vs. a sealed one, so it should spin freely and it's dirt cheap.
That's unfortunate that it's not available anymore. Fortunately, any free-spinning open bearing in the 6003 size will work. I only picked that particular one from that site since it was cheap. I'll try to find another source for it and update the link in the description.
Thank you for the reply. I am using S3D to print with and I am getting a lot of stringing. Do you have any setting suggestions that might help?
Make sure the printing temp isn't higher than it needs to be, and be sure that retraction is set to at least 2 mm for a direct drive extruder. I use 2.5 mm for my retraction. That should solve it.
Just wondering if anyone has made a shroud for this engine?
Have you checked the Remixes for this? There's some shrouds in there.
Is it possible for u to make one without the cutaway? I mean so it is solid as a real engine, already made this but want one “complete”
Making it fully 360 would make assembling tougher, since a lot of parts are concentric. It would be require modifying the parts quite a bit, and I unfortunately don't have the time to devote to it. When I modeled this originally, I figured a fully "complete" engine would be kind of boring because all you'd see is the fan up front and then just the outer casings for the rest of it.
You could be right, thanks
I have scanned all 537 comments looking for answers to two questions and didn't fine them (or just missed them). I did find a lot of other good information though.
What brand and colors are used in the colored photo above (it looks like orange and silver and black), it is a great combo and I would like to duplicate it.
Orange one is indeed a rendering. I recommend printing slowly, like 10-15 mm/s for perimeters.
The image with the orange case looks like a rendering
Hello, can someone help me with a few questions that I have? How much time it takes to print the whole project? How much plastic do I`m going to need? Does it exist a manual for the assemble? I will appreciate your help. Thanks.
There's no low pressure compressor section? :-) (granted, the front bearing would kind of be in the way...)
LPC can just be 1 stage (fan), when the stage is part of a turbofan engine the low pressure compressor is just called the fan. Generally there is just one compressor stage which acts on the flow of the bypass. Then depending on the size difference between the front and back of the HPC, which if it is too large the efficiency will decrease too much, there may be a booster section (if a two spool engine) which is attached to the low pressure spool (runs at the same rpm/powered by the LPT) which is within the primary section and could look like/be likened to LPC.
Thanks. I learned things. This print has taught me as much about jet engines as Kerbal Space Program has taught me about orbital mechanics.
This thing is a work of art. Thanks for the time spent drafting this.
Hi, this is an awesome model! I was wondering: how much filament do you need for printing this model (if everything goes right without failed prints)? I don't want to spend more than 1 or 2 rolls on this for now, as I don't have enough money for that lol
The whole model is close to 1.5kg of material IIRC from my plans.
If you download Fan_With_Supports requires extra supports?
The fan with included supports does not need additional supports.
I have a question concerning the bearing size. Can you find bearings/bolts/hardware that will be accommodated at the .5 scale?
Not sure if those sizes exist. Printing this at half scale would be pretty tough too, and it probably won't spin freely.
Awesome design! I want to print this for a friend who is going into the aerospace field as a gift. Do you have written instructions on how to put it together besides the file with their orientation? Also do you know how much material is used to make this? Finally, I will print everything with their supports just to be safe but how would you recommend removing the supports after?
No written instructions, but there are tons of videos on Youtube that show a build timelapse. Here's a good one, starting at 0:45
Amount of material depends on your infill and support infill percentage, and whether or not you use rafts. I don't remember how much material was used, but probably over a kg. The supports I put in are supposed to be removable without damaging the parts. How well that works in practice depends on your printer's print quality. Mine turned out great, but your mileage may vary. Good luck!
Oh yeah I did find a few videos but they are all sped up so its a bit hard to see things such as how things like where the washers go and where one should glue for example. Also noticed you saying somewhere that one should use regular supports along with the supports you gave it. What do you mean by that exactly?
It's possible to set the youtube playback speed to .5x if that helps.
You need regular supports that your slicer adds for parts with horizontal overhangs. I only put custom supports for areas where regular supports wouldn't be good enough. But for areas like the casing flanges, those need regular supports.
Ok I'll try to make do with the videos. I am getting this 3D printed now so for your future reference, if you print a 10 infill stand and 40 infill everything else, the amount of filament needed will be just over 1.5 kg. A bit less if you dont use supports.
I am having a pretty hard time printing the LPT stages (rotors). Did you actually design the blades to be slightly tilted inwards? I am not speaking of the tilt of the blades that makes the whole thing spin from the exhaust) but rather a tilt inwards, as my printer starts sith very small dents rather than a whole bottom line of the blade (see attachment). I would be so happy if anyone has a solution for this. Maybe I am doing something wrong, but the HPT stage rotos for example look great, so I don't really know what is happening here. Thank you in advance and thank you for the great model, I love it!
It's been a while, but I believe that what you show is per the design. Did they turn out?
when i use support from slic3r (at a contact z distance at 0.1), the layer on top of the support is really ugly (look at the attached photo),
the only solution that i found is to set the "contact Z distance" to 0, but the support become really hard to remove, require a lot of post-processing and time.
someone know how to avoid that ?
I used Simplify3D, and there's an option called "dense supports" that does a few layers of higher infill supports where it touches the part. This helped a ton. I don't know if there's a similar option in slic3r...
Hi, Is there anyone out there that can help me edit the files to have the engine be placed in a rc jet or homemade drone? How would you go about using a starter engine specifically in your design. I want to keep all my fingers and hair thanks.
This is kinda what I'm looking for except with this design.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_X_ctwt8PT4
This design wouldn't work well in an operating configuration for actual use. It's a scaled down version of an airliner engine, and jet engines don't run the same if you just scale them up or down.
does anyone made it downscaled? My prusa i3 200x200x200 is to small for original scaled model. what was your experience?
Its made for a 200x250x200 printer and the largest parts are included as cut-in-half versions so smaller printers can handle it, look for "cut" in the file name
This is a brilliant model, but let me suggest that you don't bother trying to print the fan all at once. After two failed prints, I finally got a complete print that ran 26 hours only to have the bottom of the first blade I tried to clean up snap off because the built in support was too strongly attached to the blade. Just print it in thirds so you only lose 8 hours of print time if something goes bad. I've got 48 total hours of actual print time and only a pile of garbage to show for it.
Onward. I'm going to print that damned fan blade if I have to punch a baby to make it happen.
I printed the fan complete @ .1mm resolution with no problems, just very careful about convincing the supports to come off.
I am having a ton of problems printing the Fan Stator Casing. It keeps knocking over the support structures. I don't see how this can be printed without adding supports beyond just the designed in support for the blades. Is any one else having problems with this part? How have you fixed it if you did?
The description states that the fan stator casings still need normal support
No offense, but my post clearly states that my problem is that the printer keeps knocking over the support structures beyond just the built in ones. Meaning that I am using extra supports, but they keep getting knocked over. I'm wondering if anyone else has had a problem with the part, and how they got it to work.
Do you have z-hop enabled for travel moves and retractions? I use around .5 mm.
That completely fixed it. It is 3/4 through printing and it is coming out perfectly. Thank a bunch.
I have not used that function. Thank you very much, I will look for it and give it a try tonight. Much appreciated.
Help with Fan Stator Casing and support.
Hallo, this is my first project, and I reduce to 50% scale, but for this piece, the slicing don't build me the support ?? Why ?? How I can resolve ??
Thanks in advance.,
Because those supports were designed at minimum printable thickness at 100% scale. Anything less than 100% runs the risk of them being too thin.
Ok, I understand. I'll try to change the support. Thanks
Amazing detail! Would it be ok to print this at 60% scale or smaller?
Some people have, but I can't guarantee success. The thin areas might not turn out as intended.
Excellent work. I'm currently printing the parts for it, and most are turning out great. However, the walls of the mixer are rather thin, and my 0.5 mm nozzle was having difficulty printing them. Is there any chance you could create a mixer model with slightly thicker walls? It would be greatly appreciated.
Just wondering, what are the dimensions of the entire product assembled (LxWxH).
Help with LPT section. I am assembling the LPT turbine section and once I slip the LPT casing on the rotor starts binding. I've sanded down the casing and the LPT stators (all stages) (including inner hub) with no luck. It'll bind and when I connect the flanges and very lightly snug it up it'll seize completely.
Does anyone have any tips on how to get the LPT rotating freely (I really need my N1 rotation :P)?
I'm wondering if I could get away with resizing the case in slicer by 0.5% and maybe lower the hub or something...(I'd be willing to try that but low on the case filament so I don't want to trial and error too much)
That said this is a great project and I'm loving it.
I had massive issues with the whole thing not spinning freely. I think one or more components weren't printed on a level bed or my printer is off slightly on an axis.
To get the LPT spinning freely I
This allowed plenty of clearance for the parts to move (and the shaft still fit snugly in the bearing) but once the rear nozzle was attached it pushed the whole assembly too far forward within the case and made it completely jam up against the stators. I added a few washers as spacers between the nozzle and the LPT casing and that fixed it. I think you could possibly do the same by shaving a % or two from the shaft maybe?
I also had to do the same at the other end with the HPT and the combustion stage (spacers between the casing). The LPT section spins freely but there is the slightest of rubbing somewhere on the HPT stage, not sure where I can't locate it but it does spin reasonably well still!
Nice design though, looks awesome!
I tried to scale up the LPT case by 0.5%. I still ended up sanding a lot of the case and it was still rubbing. Maybe on the next one I'll try resizing the whole section. For now I'm just accepting the rub and leaving a gap between the LPT/Turbine case flange
I am having a similar issue with binding on the LPT turbine section. I added an offset (about 2 mm) between the LPT casing and nozzle casing but that is a crude fix from my perspective. I am also looking for a better solution to the LPT turbine binding as well.
I did make a version of the stages in the LPT with bigger clearances for someone. Yes, it's a common issue, and I had to sand mine a little to get rid of rubbing (since my build plate was apparently skewed by .5 deg from horizontal). I'll try to find those files and upload them.
Why isnt the top covered?
What exactly are you referring to?
What print bed size does the biggest part require?
8x10 inches, roughly. The split up versions of the big parts can accommodate smaller build plates.
Hi, at what layer height did you print the fan?
0,15mm just for fan or all parts?
I printed fan with 0,6mm nozzle at 0,2mm layer hight.
this such an insanely well executed project, well done. I am in aviation and currently getting my degree in CNC machining at my community college. I'm wondering if you would be willing to share your CAD files for this project? I'm dying to see if i could import it via .STEP File and make at least some of these parts on our machines at school. Would make for an epic semester project and id be sure to site you in the write up. Thanks, and again great work!
I appreciate the compliments. I'd love to see a machined version of this! Step files are zipped up on the bottom of the list of files.
hey there, anyone know if i can buy sealed bearings instead of open ones
Yes just look up how to make open bearings from closed bearings it takes about 2 minutes
They are available on Amazon, I'm pretty sure
How did you print this out to make it appear architectural like the fourth photo you included where everything appears to be micro beams and trusses or spiderweb style?
That was a combination of 2 separate images, one of them being the 2nd picture above and the other being a rendering of the model with the shading turned to mesh. I thought it looked dope.
Beautifully, and accurately detailed!
More than forty years ago, I was a Jet Engine Mechanic in the Navy. Seeing your design thrills me.
I would love to know how you did the 3D design of the fan, blades, and vanes. That eludes me.
That's awesome! I made them in CAD using pictures of Rolls-Royce and GE engine fans for reference. The blades are basically multi-section lofts with leading and trailing edges defined in 2 views (front and side). They look complicated but are actually pretty simple.
I am currently working on a different model of a jet engine and I was wondering if you knew the make psi that a jet engine like this can handle since i am making mine to work off of air.
No idea, but I imagine it depends on the material you use to print it with and how much infill you use, as well as how tightly you're able to seal off the casings to reduce leakage. Would love to see it if you pull it off.
Hi there , amazing design!
Wanna print one , quick question: how much filament you used for it (approximately)? How much time (approximately ofc) It took you to print all of it?
Less than 1 kg, I think. And lots of time, since I did most parts individually. Maybe a couple hundred hours since I also print slowly for better quality.
Congrats on the design, been on my print list for a while. Printed the majority of parts now, bolted the outer casings together. Have assembled the rotating shafts however dont quite see how these now fit together? Any advice on assembly here? Am i assembling in the wrong order? Do all parts need to be assembled internally?
Thanks for any advice!
First of all: Awesome design! I am currently in the progress of printing this design, which is challenging for me as a beginner, but an absolute must have!
I am printing the open design, but I think it would be cool to have the core "open and close" by means of a lid. Is it possible that you upload some new variants of the core case files? I'm thinking of the pieces that are currently cut away from the core case parts. If they would be available as printable parts, they could (when bolted together) serve as a lid for the core.
Should you find the time to create these parts: Thanks a bunch! If not.... no worries ;)
Hard to find the time, but maybe some others can pitch in and upload a remix...
hey guys ! very nice work !!! amazing
So i have a question for you, witch ball bearing do you use ? (100% model)
Specific bearings are contained in the description
Can this work with electricity and actually work?
There's a remix where someone did this
Hi, I'm a corporate jet pilot and congrats on such a great design! Question about printing the fan. Did you have any issues with zits and blobs on both sides of the fan blade? If so how did you solve the problem or did you just do a post sand on the blades? Thanks again for an incredible job and very true to scale.
I made sure to put the layer starting location along a more or less vertical line going up the hub.
I’m using Simplify3d, is there a setting under Layer tab to specify? Thanks again
I also set the coast setting and retraction setting as you had specified in another answer to someone’s question.
Go to the layer tab, then Start Points section, then pick the 3rd option, "choose start point closest..."
Hello! First of all, congratulations for such a incredible design.
Could you provide me the exact number of screws, flat washers and nuts?
Thank you so much!
77 screws, 77 nuts, and 146 washers
I'm trying to build a lamp out of this and I was wondering if you could post a cover for the whole jet for make it work better as a a lamp.
There are some remixes of this where other people uploaded covers they modeled for this.
Could you upload the stripe that would match up with the spinner so it can be printed using a dual extrusion printer? Not that is that much harder to do but if the part is made already and just has to be uploaded that would be a nice touch. Absolutely incredible work!
Thanks. There's a remix where someone posted a dual-color spinner.
Hello, first, thanks for a very fun and detailed model, I'm in the process of printing parts on my new Prusa mk3. Could you tell me what software you used to design this model and if you have any tips for a noob (me) in 3D design? I would like to try my hand at a cutaway SR-71 engine similar to your model.
I appreciate any comments,
I used CATIA. As far as tips, I suggest searching for tutorials on youtube and finding CATIA (or other CAD) textbooks. And then just spend a lot of time modeling things. Good luck with your project!
What printer did you have?
First off; incredible design! Still chugging along trying to print all the parts on my Prusa MK3.
I'm new to 3D printing and still tweaking some things, but how does everyone deal with the Combustion Lining w/ Supports? I'm finding it difficult to remove the support structures that are internal to the lining. So far all the pieces have printed just fine without much issue removing support structures (default and custom). So I'm not sure if this is just a bad print and I need to redo it or if its just something that difficult.
Thank you in advance for any advice.
It's printable without the need for supports inside the combustion lining. Only need supports for the thin overhanging flange. I designed the parts such that any angled surfaces are doable without supports, and only the horizontal overhangs actually need supports.
Any idea how to apply those in Cura? I tried both the with and without and have had problems with both. Doing the without and using Cura supports is a mess and of course the with does not have the supports for the overhanging flange.
Is it possible to use some zippy fuel and actually get this going? If so how would I go about doing this? Great design btw.
did you ever find an answer to your question? I'm looking for the same thing myself.
Unfortunately, no. I was really hoping to find a way to print a miniature version and then strap it to a 3D printed Drone, but no such luck. Please, please let me know If you can find anything. something like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_X_ctwt8PT4 is what I am looking for, except with this design.
Exactly why I asked. I'm currently working on that engine but it doesn't give any thrust. My guess is the lack of the compression that this one has. But I believe that this one doesn't require liquid/gas fuel, just to be enclosed. I'll contact you if I do find one and hope that you'll do the same for me if you do.
I'm pretty sure getting the combustion just right to make it run and continue running (self-sustaining without a starter motor) would be the biggest headache. Probably find someone who works with scale model jet engines for RC planes and get their thoughts.
Thanks Man! I was planning on CADing an rc jet or something around the engine anyway. How would you go about using a starter engine specifically in your design. Thanks for your hard work on this. It is people like you that make me want to be an aerospace engineer when I grow up.
can you upload a fully assembled stl version? thanks in advance.
What will you use it for, if you don't mind me asking?
I will be making a version that is a spool holder that operates when you are printing!
how big is this and how many hours did you spend printing this?
14 inches long and 150-200 hrs, depending on how many parts you print at a time.
Trying to print your design, Whats the different between" with supports" and without supports. I am using Cura 3.do I leave the supports clear.
I have obtained the 4 Bearings as per list. Where do they fit.?
The ones "with supports" have extra supports to better handle certain features. I highly recommend printing those. You still need to have regular supports added on those parts though. Please refer to the section views for bearing placements.
How do you remove the custom supports? Or do you have to do something in the slicing software to print them as support instead of solid?
Thank your, help is much appreciated. I am having much pleasure in my attempts to print
your fantastic design. Your skill is much admired.
You dont have youtube link? How to assemble it?
Part of this video shows the assembly.
Hi Catiav5ftw, first amazing design. I am enjoying to print it.
I have one question: i have printed the fan that you have designed separately to this model but I cannot find the bride to Connect it to the rest of the engine.
Have you created one or not?
If yes is it possible to share the file?
Thanks in advance.
The fan model is a completely separate project, so it won't fit this engine (it's too big and spins the opposite direction).
Thank you so much. I will try to redesign it in order to fit with the engine.
Hello, I have a Prusa MK2S and MK3 and printed 3 of your turbines. Would it be possible for you to reduce the outside diameter of the following files by 2-4mm. The parts print great, but the tolerances are too tight an bind when I assemble the turbine.
LPT_Stage_1, 2, 3, 4_No_Supports.stl
Also, would you be able to reduce the shafts both Front and Aft, where the bearings sit (17mm and 20mm) by .25mm. Again, thank you for creating such a great model.
Hi - Im having a couple of issues getting the flat stripe onto the spinner cone. It fits perfectly but is far too springy to stay in place and as a result breaks the glue! Any tips? Im using PLA and 0.08 layer height if either of those make a difference.
Use a heat gun or hair dryer to soften the stripe, then form/wrap it into the groove. You still need to glue the ends, but this way there is little force pulling up in the ends.
Maybe reprint the stripe but only do a few layers instead of the whole thickness.
Ill give that a go when I load the printer back up with white - just powering through the turbine stages now! Its a big old print.
I am also having problems printing the Fan Stator Casing with support and than using supports in Slic3r Prusa Edition for the other overhangs. It's the last part I need to print, all others printed fine with support from Slic3r and your included support, but the Stator casing is having big issue's. Could you make one version where no supports from the Slic3r are needed? I think that would solve my issue's.
The one you made still requires so much supports from the Slic3r that the chances of one failing are very high I guess.
I would appreciate it very much, as the model itself is great and I would like to finish it by printing the last part, I also have all the bearings as well.
Thanks in advance!!
I'm guessing it's adding too much support. Only the overhanging surfaces that are horizontal actually need supports (see areas highlighted in orange in the attached pic).
Yeah I have played around with the settings so I also tried minimal supports in those area's but there are still soo much that somehow it creates problems.
I think a solid support like the others you already added helps solve that for me.
It really is the last part I need but somehow I can't get it to print right.
Nevermind, I finally managed to print the part, sliced in Slic3r PE, the trick was to print it slow, at 50% speed and to use 0mm between supports and the part itself and a solid top layer of the supports. The inner floating ring wouldn't stick on the supports with the default 0.15mm gap that Slic3r PE sets, this would make the print head catch on the ring and cause serious problems with the print.
Hopefully I can remove the supports but I think it will take some effort to make it clean, at least the part printed.
First of all, awesome model mate!
I have just a little question - is there any chance, that there is a model or parts for remaining section view that completes the model? to describe what I mean - I would like to print this luvly thing these days and I have been thinking about version which is completely closed but you can pop the whole thing up and that would be great with the use of neodimium magnets... so closed model - POP! - section view. I could probably try this myself, but there is no more spare time to do that :(
thanks for the answer and for the awesome job you did here :)
Hard to find the spare time for that myself, but that sounds like a cool idea.
Timelapse of the 1st stage fan: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LhOj74UIAXY
Hello, Thank you for designing such a great turbine. I have a Prusa Mk2S and have made 2 of these turbines in the past 6 months, I posted pictures of my first one in April, 2017. I've had the same issue with both. The tolerances between the HPT and the LPT Stage 1 are very tight. Also the spacing between the LPT Stator Stage 4 and the Nozzle are also very tight. I've tried to change the height (Z) of the parts but this seemed to make it worse. Can you reply with a solution to try.
Also, I'm not sure if this is an issue with my printer but the tolerances of the LP Shaft front and Aft are Too accurate. What I mean is the 17mm and 20mm landings where the bearings mount are exact. I have to sand the shafts to make the bearings fit. Is there a way to reduce these ares without affecting the other dimensions of the parts.
Could you provide me with a working PLA GCode for the Fan Stator Casing? I tried printing it on my Prusa i3 MK2S, but it keeps failing with the Slic3r PE supports.
Thanks in advance!
I have the GCode you're looking for. I had to use a really old version of Cura to get the part sliced properly with all the supports. I will send the file later tonight when I'm home.
Perfect! Thank you very much, can't wait to finally print the last part and finish the model.
Again thank you!!
Here is the file you asked for. Let me know how it works for you. I printed this part at .2mm layer height, 20% infill, 60mm/sec. The print time was about 19.25 hours (I think..)
Something is very wrong with what you send me, it starts printing mid air, no meshbed leveling. Your starting GCode is totally different than what I was using in the past.
Do you know what is happening?
I tried editing my own start GCode but that get's even worse.
Your help is appreciated.
I have no idea why this would start in mid air. I have used the same Gcode for all 3 of the turbines I built. I will do a test print tonight with the same code and let you know the results. I'll also resend the file if this prints correctly.
Not sure if it would make a difference but I use Octoprint to print the file.
I'm not using Octoprint yet. Are you just copying the file to your SD card and printing from there?
Yeah I tried both with the same result, they both start printing wel clear of the printbed and no meshbed levelling before.
Here is the file again. I'm going to start this print again and take some video. Let me know if you want to see.
Yes I would like to see that, the file is exactly the same as you send before so I don't see how this will work with the MK2S without meshbed levelling.
Sorry I was not able to take video. I have attached a picture of the test print from last night.
Thanks for that!
So you never meshbed level when you start a print?
You have set your Z using the calibration on the SD or in the firmware?
Really strange, although I do see some issue's with the print in your picture as well.
Sure, sorry to hear this is not working for you. My printer goes through all 9 calibration points before each print. Live Z was set by using both the V2 calibration and a few different test prints. I'm fairly new to 3D printing, only about 6 months. I'd be interested in your comments about the issues with this print from the picture.
Thanks for your help!!
Good to hear you worked out the issue. I have printed this part a few times without any issues removing the supports. Please post a picture when you have this assembled.
Due to no gap at all between the supports and the part itself, the top and bottom of the supports are fused with the part itself so will require some more work to clean up, but that's ok I am happy it printed at least and I can finish it.
I had the same issue when I used Slic3r PE. The part was printing with a wide brim that was fused, even with the setting turned off. I know I'm half way around the world from you, but if you want me to print one for you message me. I am able to ship all over the world.
Thank you for the offer, but I am able to clean the part up nicely, will just take some TLC. ;-)
I don't have a brim, it's just the supports that needs cleaning up.
Ok, have a good day.
Again thanks for all your help!!
Strange as the command to perform it, G80, is not in your GCode.
One of the small supports is missing in the inner ring, some of the lines seem to be messy or missing here and there, mostly the outline though. But that might all be due to Cura, I never really used it.
I'll try some more, maybe slowing things down will solve my issue's.
Thanks for your help anyway!
I'll give it a go.
Sure. This is mt 3rd.
That looks great!
The fan still has some of the supports attached, did you do that on purpose?
Yes, that's intentional. I've printed the fan a few times. I removed all the supports and didn't like the way the part broke off the blades. I feel this looks better. Maybe there's someone that has a better way to remove the supports without scarring or breaking the baldes.
Hi, could you please upload this model fully closed as well ??
i personally would only need the parts w.o. support in the files, so if you could do it i would be really happy :)
If you print fully closed parts, it would actually be impossible to assemble (stators inside the casings, specifically). It's possible to do 2 casing halves and put them together (like engines in real life) if that's what you mean.
Hi. Great work. I was interested in using the front blade section from this model for an art competition. There is the potential of cash prize so if you deem that as commercial use would I be able to get your approval as per the thingiverse policy? Thanks
I wouldn't consider that as commercial use, so it's fine.
Thanks so much.
Just finished my one. First of all: Thank you for this awesome model. Mine looks really great. I went with Patona White, Fittingslot silver metallic, Extrudr.eu matte black and an Ice Filaments Oak woodfill stand. It just looks great.
Unfortunately i had a lot of issues with the bearings, so it ended up more of as a static model as it wobbles pretty terribly. Later in the building process i found out that i had to sand at least 0.5mm to get my bearings to fit. On the very first bearing i just tried to use force and it went half way in but didnt want to go any further or go out again. I had to carefully hammer it in, which was pretty nervewracking and apparently it didn't end up perfectly straight.
Also, i think instructions would make everything so much easier, even though admittedly I have very little experience putting models together, so maybe it's just me. I made so many mistakes with the order of putting things together that i had to keep unscrewing things because of not being able to reach some parts i still had to screw in. A simple step-by-step text instruction manual would have been a lifesaver for me.
Printing wise it was challenging but doable. I ended up using mostly my own supports as the provided supports kept fusing together with the model too much. Also, the big fan blades came out really terribly with a lot of blobs and zits, while every single other part of the model printed perfectly fine. First i thought it was the filament, but it came out exactly the same with another filament. The second filament allowed removing most of it with a scalpel without leaving marks though, so it was a lot of work, but ended up looking nice.
For anyone in germany who wants to buy screws: Look for ISO 14583 M 2,5 x 10 screws, DIN 439 M 2,5 Nuts and DIN 433 2,7mm washers. And the bearings from amazon.de that i had issues with are the ones by Kugellager Shop CQ Stuttgart. My printer being the problem is also possible though.
Did you use PLA? The issues you described sound to me like the printer was overextruding. There are a couple videos of people putting theirs together. One of them is here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5hD_ZGOuvJE
I do know that another user here is working on an actual step by step instruction video and should be available soon.
Yeah, i did use PLA. Overextruding is something i have to check on, but most parts came out great, and the last time i made the makers muse tolerance test, i got down to 0.2. Maybe it's the rather cheap filament i'm using. Might be an issue with diameter tolerances. I'll check that and i'll also measure the parts that are reachable to see how much the outer diameter increased compared to the model.
Did you only use silver, black, and white filament? Are the fans all one grey color? I like the look of the picture you posted and want to replicate it.
Yes and yes. Good luck!
would a Radial Ball Bearings work too instead of open ball bearings?
Radial ball bearings are the same.
would a Radial Ball Bearings work too instead of open?
Aren't those the same thing?
How much filament do I need for this?
Not sure actually, and it would depend on the infill. I hope someone else here who's printed one has the answer.
This model looks amazing, and I have had excellent luck with printing almost all of the parts. Unfortunately I am having some issues, with printing a few parts, where Cura isnt creating toolpaths for the support material. The two parts I have really noticed this on were the main Fan, and the Fuel injector, although there were 1 or 2 others that had missing support but printed fine nevertheless. On those two files though, the support shows up in Cura and looks fine, but if i look at it layer by layer, it omits the support material. Any ideas on how to fix this?
I had issues printing the fan stator casing. In Cura, I had to raise the model .4mm and then the supports and everything else printed properly. Not sure what the deal was.
I had no issues with the main fan. In fact, I didn't add any supports - just printed it with the included supports.
I've heard of a few others having trouble with the fan stator casing in Cura for some reason. I use Simplify3D with no issues. I'm not really sure why the supports cause so much trouble...
And correct, the main fan doesn't need additional supports apart from the custom ones I put in already.
Is there a shroud that can be used for this model?
I haven't made one, but there is one in the remixes.
Hi. English is not my first language so i didnt compleaty understand your describtion. If i look at your exel table, sectioned engine with supports is the table that i should print right, if i want to use your custom supports for easier printing. Also are there any instructions as to how to assemble this thing after i have it printed. Also i like your white, black and grey scheme a lot. Do you have a list that shows which item should be printed in which colour? Thanks for the aswers!
Yes, sectioned engine w/ supports is what you need. I don't have instructions, but this youtube link https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5hD_ZGOuvJE shows another guy putting his together.
I don't have a list of what parts are which color, but generally, all the casings and spools are white, parts with blades are gray, combustion area is gray, and nozzle cone is gray.
Thanks for the great looking model by the way, I was wondering if i could get this running by any chance, i have no clue about how jet engines work and I figured why not make one and experiment with it.
This engine is just for looks, and the plastic would melt if you tried to run fuel through it. If you look through the remixes, you'll see a motorized version.
just theoreticly, if "someone" would build this thing out of ... steel i guess ? and as well fully closed. would it run ?
i mean there are pleanty of homemade jet engines but none of them is really working so i was just wondering ^^,
Running, like with fuel? No. Running from an external electric motor to just spin? Sure, why not
first up amazing model mate and really well designed.
Just hav 3 questionsif you wouldnt mind answering
I need to scale this down to 50% original size. Will all the pieces and the model go together fine?
I am using your reccomended list on the excel sheet. And wanted to now exactly which parts needed support throuhh cura added? I dislike supports as the model never looks as clean. But which ones need them?
50% would be pushing it. The clearances between the parts would be super tight, and tolerance issues from any printing imperfections, axis misalignment, and inconsistent extrusion, etc. would keep the engine from spinning well. Plus, the fastener holes would be tiny, and I don't know if they make screws small enough. Also, I don't know if there are properly sized ball bearings either. And the custom supports would be too thin to print at 50%. Some others have printed down to around 60% scale, but I'd really recommend full scale.
I don't know which parts need supports specifically, but basically anything with flat surfaces facing the build plate would need supports (casings for example). I designed the parts such that most, if not all, of the angled surfaces don't need supports.
My coloring scheme was all the casings and spools are white, whereas anything with blades is silver. Combustion chamber and nozzle cone are also silver.
By the way, I have problems fitting the strip to the spinner cone.
Is there a tip for that or a chance for spinner cone with the strip for dual color printing? :)
Did you print it in PLA and do the hot water trick? I can upload a dual color spinner, although I can't promise it very soon, unfortunately.
how hot the water should be? will it also work for the tip?
Just hot enough to be uncomfortable to dip your finger in, but not boiling. The tip shouldn't need it.
Hello, do you still have the original cowlings (front & back) at 100% with thin walls?
Could you clarify? I did 25-30% infill for everything.
I have redirected my question to https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2147061.
BTW I have printed the engine and am very happy with the quality and attention to detail you provided.
I admire your talent and dedication in designing this model. Thanks very much for making it available to us.
Are there any recommended settings for the print?
Such as layer height and speed?
I printed at .15 mm because it's a good blend of high resolution and faster print times compared to .1 mm. I also kept the print speeds low (10-12 mm/s outlines) to improve surface quality and reduce ghosting around corners.
I am having difficulty in Cura with a few parts. Specifically the Fan_Stator_Casing_and_Support_With_Supports.stl
When I import into Cura and lay the object flat (with support on bottom of course), in the layers view, it does not want to print the first support layer. See image attached. You can see on Layer 1 it omits your included supports for some reason. Can anyone explain how to fix or get around this? Thanks
I'm not sure why that is. Sometimes, Simplify3D omits layers randomly in these parts, but I found that rotating the model helped for some reason. Other times, I had to remesh the part. Did you find a workaround? Looks like your model printed well.
insane modell! Ive printed all parts, started assembling like in the video you posted. On the shaft the HPC Stages are put and the HPC Casing is filled with the stators. Now my question is to get the shaft inside the casing between the stators. Is there any trick? Since it is not open 180° im afraid of breaking the stages.
I put all the stators on the shaft along with the HPC stages, then snapped the whole thing into the casing. It's not 180 deg, but the plastic should flex enough to allow it to go in.
I would just like to say thank you, we are printing one for a middle school who has a teacher trying to put together a makerspace.
very nice and accurate model. I printed on Rebel IIb. Filament PLA, layer 0.2, nozzle 0.4. Sliced CURA with Supports and Slic4r Průša for parts with integrated supports.
Thank you very much.
Vladimir of Pilsen, Czech Republic
First thank you for that great model.
I'm almost finished printing it (only the LPT stators left), and started assembling what could be, but I can't seem to be able to push fit the 6204 bearing on the LP shaft front. I've broken 3 already, trying to force it in place. Same for the smaller bearing on this shaft.
The other 2 bearings went on quite easily (had to use some percussive persuasion but they went on great).
My printer is calibrated, all parts fit together except those bearings.
What do you suggest? I was thinking about putting the bearings in the oven to heat them to something like 100°C, and then push fit them. But seems a bit overkill.
I printed the shaft in PLA.
I'm having the same issue. I tried sanding, but I worry about the wall thickness. Did you ever had luck with a solution to this?
Heat expands....cold shrinks. Put the bearings in your freezer for a few hours before you install them.
I am very new to to 3d printing and am having trouble with the fan stator housing,I used the one with supports,it collapsed I suspect between the stator supports and the hub, any suggestions? printer is a prusa i3 mk2
An excellent model by the way and very generous of CATIAV5FTW to make it available to anyone free of charge.
I'm trying to print the Nozzle_With_Supports using Cura 15.04.6 and a Printerbot Simple Metal. The .stl file shows that there are inverted T-shaped supports under each blade, set so that the flat part of the tee should start printing on layer one. The flat part of the tee never shows in layer view, and nothing support-wise shows until several layers in, where the vertical part of the tee starts to try to print in mid-air. Needless to say, it doesn't work. Anyone have any suggestions on how to get the supports to print properly?
IS there any exploded view for assembly purpose? Or any instructions for assembly?
No, aside from the diagrams in the pictures above. Someone made a video assembling it here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5hD_ZGOuvJE&t=179s
maybe someone can show me the difference between the HPC stage 4 and 5 ? i'm pretty sure I haven't swaped them but i prefer to be sure :) !
Thanks for the help.
Stage 5 is smaller than stage 4.
Hey, you guys are not using any support for example on HP_core_casing? All the casings have overhangs...
Supports on the regular overhangs are still required.
where are instruction to assembly this engine?
I don't have assembly instructions, but here's a video that someone made that shows the process: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5hD_ZGOuvJE&t=179s
Thank you very much !
I have just finished printing your assembly and wow, what can I say, absolutely gorgeous design work! I would like to post my pictures of this print on 3dHubs to attract customers along with other thingiverse prints. Could I get your permission to do so? I will of course give you full credit for design and modeling work on my hub page.
I am hoping to use this model as the basis for a nacelle we are designing, are there any complete or editable Catia V5 files available that we can modify to suit our dimensions. Currently we are looking at having to start form scratch modelling an engine. But our technology Is the nacelle
I am hoping to run the engine using an electric motor and get the nacelle working (Thrust reverse), we need a good starting point and this seems to be the best model for our needs.
I am not sure what the convention is on sharing this data though.
I put the CATIA files here: https://grabcad.com/library/3d-printable-high-bypass-jet-engine-1
Thanks very much for those, I will share our modification to it when we are complete in Grab CAD, we are initially going to modify it to our geometry for a High Bypass flow engine.
Hello, I have issue with printing part "Nozzle_With_Supports.stl" . I printed it on my Prusa MK2S but I recently found out, that there are "missing" some layers in the printed model. I went through the whole model each layer in the Prusa Control and Slic3r and yes there are missing layers. Did someone have same issue? If there is someone who has working Gcode for this part for Pruska MK2 please let me know or if you could send me this I would really appreciate because I was not able to fix it (I tried to use Meshmixer but without any success). Thank you and happy printing :-) .
Here is screenshot example what I mean:https://www.dropbox.com/s/93kyhy3zspan15k/Nozzle_With_Supports.png?dl=0
There is only support material and no part material. And in this part I have a lot of sections like this.
Here is real printed part:https://www.dropbox.com/s/vqml5woqw0yklsh/IMG_1397.jpg?dl=0
UPDATE: It seems that Cura 2.6.2 is capable to create GCode in right way, but I was not able to print it however I set correct printer. It looked like that it ignored Z axis calibration. Any idea how to go on? :-/
Hi, are you still having issues with this part?
Hello, yes I have still issue with this part. :-(
Just wondering what you used to put together the screws in the more tight spaces. Just finished spray painting. Looking to finally assemble in the next couple weeks.
A lot of patience and some needlenose pliers as needed. I'd like to revise some of the screw placements someday...
It is now day 8 of my consecutive print. :) All the casings are done. All the low pressure shafts are done. High pressure shaft is printing. So far, so good. Stand and spinner are tomorrow, then the fans+turbines+stators marathon begins.
One thing I noticed is that the Low pressure shafts fore and aft should have notched ends, so when the model is assembled they are interlocked. I suspect most people glue them, but notched ends would be really handy if you ever need to dismantle the model in the future.
I'll definitely add that to the list of revisions I'll make someday. Notched ends are a very good idea and should've been done from the start.
Thanks for this model! I love jet engines, and your model is gorgeous! Notched ends on the shafts be super cool, and I am just starting my printing of this, so you have like 2 weeks before I print out the shafts. ;) Thanks!
Uploaded revised (Rev A) versions of the forward and aft LP shafts, as well as the connector. I changed it from round to hexagonal. Let me know if that works for you all.
Ansolutely agree. Notched or splined joint would be perfect.
First of all, great model to print. Also a good project to really "learn" how to print with all the different shapes and sizes in the parts. I am however struggling with the tapered casings. What's the best practice of ppl here with the supports for the top flanges?
I printed mine with the larger end on top so the flange supports have a more solid base instead of starting up from the casing.
I'm having difficulty identifying some of the parts in the photographs, so I'm not sure which color to print them (namely the Low Pressure Shaft because it's obstructed). Is there any way the colors could be added to the BOM or posted here in the comments?
I want to make sure this is done right the first time :)
I think the color of the low pressure shaft does not really matter because it is not really visible when the modelist assembled.
Mine is printed white :)
Well, actually, the front flange where it mounts to the fan and 1 cm or so on each side of the front bearing is visible.
Printed mine in black.
Thanks! I'll finish mine up in white as well, then.
Been printing with a Prusa MK2s since. I have some problem printing the fan_with_support though. For some reason, the printer keep on jamming on this particular print. Other prints are good and smooth, including the Combustion and HPT Casing.
Do you have any idea what could went wrong? Been troubleshooting since the problem arises. It's either the nozzle or the heatbreak jammed in the middle of the print.
Best looking jet engine model out there! Thanks for this beautiful model!!
It's not an easy part to print, but I haven't had any issues, and I haven't really heard much from anybody else. Is the filament actually jammed in the nozzle, or is the filament just ground down from the extruder gear due to too many retractions?
Yes, i have just solved it. I think it's the extruder gear issue, it has misaligned due to unknown reason. LOL.
It's a real beauty! Thanks for the design again! I will make it a gift to one of my student!
Don't know if this tip is of any use to the multitude of people printing this great model, but first time I tried to glue the flat strip into the nozzle I made a real mess of it. I was using Gorilla super glue, which did work, but I really struggled at the pointed end keeping the strip in place while the glue set and ended up (like I always do with super glue) sticking my fingers to the nozzle and it ended up with white blotches all over the black nozzle.
2nd attempt I tried to get the strip to maintain the spiral shape before gluing. So I laid the strip dry without glue in the groove and secured at both ends with masking tape. I did need to cut about 2 mm off one end for a good fit (not sure why). I then put the whole thing in very hot water (around 80 C) in a cup and left it until the water went cold. To my surprise the strip was perfectly in the groove, even when tape removed. After 5 days it was still perfectly in there, still no glue, however, as a precaution I have just put a dab of glue at both ends.
Wow, what a fantastic great looking model. I am an Aeronautical Engineer student here in Australia and when I seen this model, I went and showed one of my lectures. As I was, he was just blown away on how great this model is. I have worked with CATIA "not my favourite" and Inventor "my favourite" and so I can really appreciate the amount of time and effort that would have went into this. So my lecturer and I will be making one. I will be starting my one as soon as semester break begins :).
So with that all said, I am going to be printing this on my Up Plus 2 printer and most likely going to be using PLA filament so that I will have minimal shrinkage/warping compared to ABS. I have a few questions with regards to the purchasing of the materials. Firstly, the 2.5mm DIA screws that you use. Would a 2mm DIA screw work instead? or even 3mm? or is it paramount that it be 2.5mm? Also, regarding the bearings. If I was to use the one type of bearing, say a 8mm ID, 22mm OD, 7mm W and fabricate components to fit the size difference. Would that work? or is it only suitable to use the bearings that you listed? Only asking as we already have these materials and saves purchasing additional ones.
Also, are all dimension for the STL files in mm or inch? So l make sure when l import the files in the program, l use the right dimensions.
Again, fantastic model. :)
I'm glad you all like it. I'm sure the 2mm screws would be fine; they'd probably be a little loose, but it won't be an issue after you tighten them. The 3mm ones probably would not work since the holes aren't big enough. For the bearings, as long as they're sized such that the parts can fit through them without clashing, you can print whatever adaptors necessary to make them fit. I picked my bearings because they fit well with the scale of the engine and were readily available on the internet. And the parts are in mm. Looking forward to seeing it printed!
With regards to your FAN file cut in 3. The file says that they have supports but when I load them they don't have the supports. Are you able to update those files with the supports please.
Also, is there any chance you could upload the Fan Stator Casing and Support (with supports) into 3 parts? Its just the second parts just exceeds the print volume on my Up Plus 2.
Just fixed and reuploaded the fan cut in thirds. I'll section the fan stator casing and upload when I get the chance.
Awesome, thank you very much
first of all great model!
I am a bit confused regarding the fan cut in 3 parts. The Name is "... with supports" but in Thingiview the 3 files are shown without supports?
Is this a failure from Thingiview or are there no supports?
And is there are really no supports.. Could you maybe upload These files with supports?
Many thanks for your help! :)
That's correct, it should've had supports, but they weren't included for some reason. I fixed the files and reuploaded them with the same names.
Thanks a lot!
I'll upload a "made" as soon as ist done :)
Hi, I just love this model.
I am currently printing one off an an original Prusa Mk2S. However, I am having a bit of difficulty with the Fan_Stator_Casing_and_Support_With_Supports.
In general for all the casing parts I am using the files with supports, if available, but I assume you still need to use supports for the flange on top that bolts to the next casing item.
But what I am struggling with is the custom supports on the Fan_Stator_Casing_and_Support_With_Supports.
Whilst they are just the same as on the rotor parts, except bigger and higher, they seem very thin and each time I try to print some of the supports just collapse before they can even be used as supports (i.e whilst at a level the supports are still being built). Each time it is different supports that fail. In actual fact if I slice with Simplyify3D it does not even see the uprights of the supports, only the bits on the build surface. I assume it is something I am doing wrong as I am fairly new to 3D printing. Can anybody offer advice how to thicken the custom supports ?
So far only used free version of sketchup for models so don't think I can change the supplied files with this.
Correct, you need to add regular supports for the flanges. What's your nozzle diameter? The custom supports are .4 mm thick, so you should make sure that your Extrusion Width is set to .4 mm.
Very grateful for quick reply.
My nozzle is 0.4 mm and up till now have been leaving the extrusion width at the Auto.
Just tried to slice with Simplify3D and the supports are now visible in preview so assume they are much thicker than before.
Many thanks for the advice :-)
Just ... Beautiful!
When I go to slice the Fan_-_Cut_1_of_3_With_Supports files (all 3 of them) slic3r shows that those cuts are only 1.35m x 5.57m x 3.51m big. I know that's not supposed to be the case. Is Slic3r reading the file wrong and I need to scale up? If so how much do I scale up to make it match. I haven't noticed any other issues with the size of the projects on other files.
I'm guessing it's a mm vs. inch scaling factor.
Is that something I can change? I've sliced in both CURA and Slic3r now and they generate the same small g-codes. Small size, very little filament used etc
Yeah, just find where the scaling option is in the slicer and scale up by 2540%. However, I fixed the files just now so the scaling is correct. You should redownload the 3 fan cut files and use those.
Awesome, thank you!
Using Simplify3D and a FlashForge Finder I cannot print the Fan_-_Cut_X_of_3_With_Supports files. The non-manifold cut ends do not stitch sanely with S3D no matter the settings choices. Can you please make the chopped files manifold for us small-printered peasants?
I repaired 1/3 via MeshMixer, but there is 1 face on each of 2/3 and 3/3 which does not repair correctly. @CATIAV5FTW can you address this? Also these files are lacking the custom supports despite the filename indicating they are there :-(
I just fixed the cut files by adjusting the section cut a bit, adding back the supports, and scaling up so the stl is in mm. Let me know if these files are still non-manifold. I reuploaded the files under the same names.
The fans look great! Thank you very much for fixing them! <3
I've added one costum support to the combustion lining on the huge overhang. If you'd like to have it, i can send you the stl file and you can add it to your download files. ;) (I'm currently printing this in my Prusa i3 Mk2 and it works great!!)
@MisterHomer I'd be interested in this. I assume it's better than printing Simplify's support towers all around the perimeter.
Here you can find the Combustion lining with other Supports. You wont need any other Supports. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2462450
It worked really well for me.
I just tried that stl for the combustion liner, and it did not come out good at all on my Anet A8.
What did work perfectly was to use the original stl and set Supports to Everywhere, and overhang to 80 deg in Cura. That resulted in a perfect support ring for just that section, and nowhere else.
Would it be possible to get the Fan Stator Casing and Support (unsectioned) cut in thirds or quarters to fit on smaller beds? I'm only 200mm x 200mm. Thanks.
Hi CAT, It is indeed a very nice design. Many thanks. Having worked in the industry and seen so many engines getting produced in real life, could not believe that such a nice design could be done by printing. Couple of points on the files. There seems to be a small mismatch on the Fan Stator which has an extra segment as compared to the casing and the HPC casings Perhaps this is because you need to fit the bearing in the cut section assembly. Also on the Fan there are a few extra files in cut in 3 parts and they seem to be reduced in size or are they used somewhere. My printing is almost done and expect to assemble over the weekend....
I have read most of the comments and details for this wonderful project but can't see anywhere what material is used.
Can this be built with PLA?
Does anyone know if I can print this a full scale on Prusa 3i Mk2S?
Can't wait to start!
Yep, PLA worked for me. I made it full scale on my Prusa i3 mk2s.
Were you able to print the fan blades without support on the MK2S? They look like they should be fine, but Slic3r keeps adding support despite my threshold being at 80 degrees. Just curious whether I should follow my intuition or let Slic3r do its thing.
EDIT: I just found the Fan_with_supports file and it confirms my suspicion. The blades should print nicely at .1mm without additional support. Sorry for bothering you!
Yep, no additional supports needed. Worked perfectly the first time.
Thanks very much for the reply. I noticed that when I brought the fan STL into the Prusa 3d slicer software it was vertical.
I assume that it is best to print it flat?
You'll find that the files don't often import into Slic3r in the correct orientation. Always try to get the big flat side facing down. There are also a bunch of images included with the downloaded where he shows the proper orientation for printing some of the parts.
Sorry for late reply, but thanks for the information.
Just off on holiday for a while so will start this project mid July.
So far this print has been an absolute delight! Very much appreciate all the work you've put in. I'm about to tackle the Combustion Lining, and I wish there were supports built in for the massive overhang near the front of the piece. Cura adds supports, but it adds them throughout the piece, not just where it's really needed.
How are people printing the casings? I'm really struggling to clean the supports up
You are an extremely talented designer.We printed this model at 175% scale and everything fit together so intuitively. Really great work on the model and we aren't joking when we say it's one of the best models we have ever printed. We made custom bearings, out of 608's and 624's, since the scale was so large. They came out great and the model spins easily.
We have been sharing your name on all our posts so hopefully it drove a few people here. Thanks again for the model.
Check out the IG videos here:https://www.instagram.com/p/BTugv-HFYFe/?taken-by=gcreate3d
if you have Instagram or Facebook we would love to edit our posts to show it. We couldn't find one.
Do it really need 'open' bearings? I have a bunch of closed types if they would be suitable?
Open bearings just spin more freely.
Actually, Shielded bearings with light oil would spin just as free. There is no contact between the inner race of the bearing and the shield.
The shield will act as a dust cover and help keep debris out of the bearings.
I'm sure closed bearings would be fine. I would recommend using bearings with shields, not rubber seals. The seals may cause too much drag. I would also recommend using bearings that have an oil lubrication, not grease. this will allow the bearings to free spin without resistance. I'm about 65% finished with the prints for this model. I'm looking forward to the assembly.
This looks beautiful but i'm having issues with the main fan.
Fan_-_Cut_1_of_3_With_Supports = has mesh issues and won't slice properly
Fan_half = low resolution mesh
First off - thank you for making such a gorgeous model available to all of us for the price of a spool of filament and some hours of our time!
I've been trying to figure out a way to print the combustion liner, but that lip on the forward end is throwing me off. Would it be possible to design a support and integrate it into the file between the liner and the lip? Slic3r isn't generating support in there.
Really great design. I'm fairly new to 3D printing. I have a Prusa MK2S and started printing a few parts yesterday. Is there a file for the assembly. This looks a bit complex and directions would be helpful.
Don't have full assembly instructions, but I did upload cross-section views with the parts labeled, as well as the parts list excel file. Hope that helps.
Sorry, I have one more question. What Layer height did you use and fill%. I am having issues with the supports for the LPT Casing. The Supports are not printing on the upper part of the print.
Thank you for your reply. I now see the cross section that you labeled. This will be very helpful.
Hi , thank you for sharing this awesome design , how long it will take to print and what is max length dimension of the engine that I can to print , my printer build area is 500,400,500 mm
Depends on how many parts you print at a time. That's a giant print area, so these parts will be no problem. Everything is under 250 mm.
Would it be alright with you if I have a printing service print this for me? Unfortunately, I don't have access to a good printer and this is the best model of a turbofan that I can find.
Yes, absolutely alright. I'd love to see it after it's printed too.
I have tried to print the UM3 Stator Casing and support cut in half part 2 twice. Each time the print shifts over about 1/4 of an inch half way through printing. Did anybody else have this issue?
I haven't heard of anybody having that issue. Have you been able to resolve it?
This is an absolutely beautiful design. I can't wait to get started on it. However, I have one question: how tight are any of the tolerance for pieces that fit together? Every time I try to print something that assembles, the pieces never fit together without some sanding and filing. Would I run into any issues with this? Or should I take the time to really dial my printer in first.
The clearances are pretty tight towards the turbine, so I'd recommend making sure your printer is in top form. Also, be sure your x y z axes are actually perpendicular. Mine weren't, so the engine wobbles as it spins.
Spent the night dialing my printer in and im fairly confident in it. Can't wait to start on this model tomorrow!
awesome! thanks for the quick reply!!