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sarf2k4

Modular Y Carriage V2

by sarf2k4 Feb 5, 2016
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I like it quite alot, but wish that there were different places to put the bearings. I'm limited to the linear rods that I currently have, so being able to have the bearings more central in the build would allow people to use a much larger build area. With the current implementation, you basically have to have linear rods that are just over double the length of your build plate if you're wanting to use up the entire build surface (as in, something like a 425/450mm rod in order to take advantage of the full build area of a 200mm print bed, since most print beds are actually around 205/210mm, and the space required to 'attach' the rods to the 'frame', also eat up valuable travel distance as well).

Hi, glad you like the design =D, the design above is of course, from the v1, which derived by my own printer's bearing placement.

Have you tried checking on the v3 which is here http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1345816 ?

I just added a missing file into it and the v3 design offers more linear rods placement and fine tuning of your bearing placement width to cater your linear rod placement and width. It also features the lm8uu to be placed towards the center of the carriage instead of far out at the back.

Try checking the v3 out =D

Modular Y Carriage V3
by sarf2k4

Yea I saw it a while after I left the comment lol. When I first saw it I didn't realize it was the V3 to this one, and dismissed it because I couldn't visualize how the parts would fit together in order to allow the more versatile bearing placement.

I do really like your design over the only other modular build plate I've found. It doesn't rely on 4 large, flat, solid pieces of plastic needing to be printed, which means a very low chance of curling.

The reason I'm looking so desperately for something, is that my printer is home made from scratch. Its 95% made out of soft wood from a 'damaged out' outdoor play tower from a store a I work at. I used up the remaining bits of it to make this printer, and thus don't have any more material to do anything with. My current huge glaring problem is that my X axis is slanted considerably. Someone changed the position of the table saw I was using and didn't bother to tell me... so the two blocks I had made (at different times of the day sadly) ended up being nearly an inch off from one another... so you can imagine the insane slant I have to print from... I manged to get it roughly 'fixed' in gcode by modifying everything by a fixed modification, and by leveling the print bed as best i can to the print head... but with some hindsight, my idea of having the build plate be the Z-Axis was utterly stupid of me, so it wobbles and never keeps its straightness... Thus, I have to relevel after every print and hope things work out (which it usually doesn't)... I'm lucky if i can get a single part printed in a day with how much tinkering I do to try and get it to print.

So, I decided to try my hardest to print out the parts I'd need to convert it into a crude Prusa i3. I've got all the parts decently printed except the X-Carriage itself, and a Y-Axis anything... I've been searching all over the place for a Y-Carriage that'll just allow me to directly bolt on the heat bed I have instead of using that aluminum build plate I keep seeing everyone have... (mine is, of course, made out of that pathetic soft wood lol).

Thank you for pointing out to the travel limitation of this v2 and I checked the v3 for the printed parts, and found the missing parts that I didn't know that it didn't get uploaded,

Yes, that is true that about 80% of the y carriage posted in thingiverse here requires a solid 200 x 200mm build plate which most printer doesn't have the requirement (probably by about 50% of them max about 180-195mm) and those who're using small printer couldn't print replacement parts as well, so modular is a way to go if you're planning to upgrade into a larger pieces or parts in the future.

I assume that your prusa is a single plate prusa i3 design, all single plate prusa i3 design have a problem of z axis wobbling, I also own a tevo tarantula, the z axis wobbles to the y min side and I've added braces that will push from the y min to make it close to 90 degree, it's a conversion from single plate to box prusa i3 =D

I actually don't have a Prusa i3. I'm converting my current printer "into" a Prusa i3. My current printer is quite literally just a box made out of 2"x4" pieces of soft wood, screwed together with masonry screws lol. The only components of the printer that isn't cut/made by hand is the extruder, the hot end, the head bed, the bearings, belts, stepper motors, and the hardened rods. I spent maybe 50 dollars max on making this printer if you don't include the RAMPS board. The majority of parts I just happened to have lying around from when i disassembled countless printers and xerox machines lol. I took all the rods, stepper motors, bearings, and belts from them. Hence why I've called this POS printer "JankyBot" lol.

would you post a picture? i'm curious about this lil frankenstein!

all the best to your 3d printer =D, let me know about the modular y carriage v3 on how well it performed =D

Will Do =D I'm going to try printing it on sunday. I ordered an inductive sensor to go along with my aluminum heat bed. This should HOPEFULLY solve all my issues in regards to having to level the bed every single print and adjust gcode to compensate.