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gyroscopic relaxing keyring - 6 rings

by gianfranco Jan 31, 2016
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Hi, Gianfranco , can I use this design for commercial use ?

Sorry, no commercial use

Thankyou for nice and good stl.

Thank you, printed perfectly worked directly from the print bed.

When I printed this, I scaled down the size by around 30 percent, but when it printed, the rings didn't move. I later found out that this was because when I scaled the size down, the gap between the walls became too small and the walls of the rings ended up melding together. I don’t think there were any other issues. If I had printed it bigger, it would have probably worked. Suggestion for other people printing this, do not decrease the size too much.

Printed and works nicely directly from a prusa i3 mk3. Would maybe work with less tolerances for a tighter fit?

yes, it has to move like the Others. Try to clean the surface and to force the rotation.

Is the smallest ring suppose to move? My littlest ring can wobble around freely but it cannot turn like the others.

Looks Awesome...gonna try one in Blue Glow in the Dark PLA.
Will post pic when done!!!

Try without scaling down. Il you scale down the free space among rings decreases and the rings tend to Stick.

HELP!!! I can't get the rings to separate. I printed it on the Lulzbot Mini scaled down to 80-75% .16mm layer height.

hi Woody 4165.
I use Cura and with 50 mm/s it takes about 3 hours to print

Ciao Gianfranco
I'll wait!
I've set Simplify3d at 60mm/s and 10% infill and it says me 3:22hrs.
Now it's at 2:45hrs and still at 62%. Another two hours I think.
Geeetech i3 Pro B and set 0.05mm layer height and, as said, resized at 75%.

Hi and thanks for sharing!

What printing speed do you suggest?
Resized to 75% and with a speed of 35mm/s is get almost 6hrs with Simplify3d.

I printed this on a Form 2 at 0.05 detail setting and could not get the three internal rings to separate. I did use supports instead of printing directly on the plate. Was that my issue?

Hi jayessess
this model does not need any support. I print it without brim too. It is possible that your problem is due to the support.
Good luck !

like it , going to make one by my ALUNAR 3D printer M508!

Hi ninawelt
Thanks and good luck !

Dear gianfranco, thank you for this awesome model! I printed it in 80% size, but it is still perfect, all the rings came loose from the bed and each other without any trouble. Such an amazing design work, well done (says a newbie who still struggles with printer settings). I guess I will try now how small I can print it :-)

how do u detach the rings

the model has a free space of about 0.5 mm among the rings. If the printer has a good quality and is properly setted, you should not have problems, as you can see in the made things and in the other comments.
Good luck

Do you have supports turned off? Be sure they are off

I don't know why i get a layer that link the rings in the first layer. I suppose that the printer is not well calibrated, because i only have that layer in the right side and not in the left. Maybe the hot bed is not in level?

I'm using cura and print the piece in a gcode directly from the micro sd with an Anet A6.

It is most likely your supports. I've had this when I set my support pattern as "lines". I found that using no supports solves this issue.

sorry, I do not have an answer for you.

im gonna print this tomorrow!

The teachers at my son's school and I would like to thank you so very much, i have printed over 50 of these to pass out to the special needs children at the school and they have helped more than you could ever know.

thank you !
I am very proud and pleased to have given a little contribution.
Dear regards to you and to all the children !

Yes, no problem.
Thank you

Do you think this would print correctly at a .3 layer height? Great design. They were a big hit at my school.

Printed perfectly! No supports, no rafts, no hassle. I was a bit worried at first (since I printed it at about 50-55%) that the pieces would not come out right, or that it would be somewhat melded together. But, everything printed fine, and is completely mobile. I had to loosen the center piece with light pressure, but it moves just fine.

I tend to bite my nails, so having something to keep my hands occupied is a huge blessing. So glad to have this now.

thanks. Why you do not publish your made thing ?

Works great didnt add any raft or support.

Make sure to print it on the side rather than standing, standing is very very very easy for it to tip over


Great project. Worked right off the raft.

how do you get the piece disconnected?

Do you mean the rings disconnected ?
There is a free space of 0.5 mm among rings. If the printer works well, it is sufficient to keep the rings disconnected, as you can see in the Made things.
Good luck

its awesome it would be cool if someone would make a version like this 5 ringed and combined with a fidget toy so its easier to hold and also ditch the key loop

cool perfect size at 100% :) i highly recommend it.

I have made several of these. Some failed, some could be used but needed a hammer to get them started. Finally, I began reducing extruder percentage to 80%. I was using PLA on blue tape but the rings would not adhere well. I got the rings to adhere with a platform heating setting of 70C (this is equivalent to a reprap setting of 105C according to my infrared thermometer, platform heating to about 68C). I am using a temperature sensitive filament now instead of the pink I used in the first make, at body temperature it is light to medium green, at 175F it turns almost pure white, in ice it turns dark green. This adds something to the items.

I noticed that the filament was measuring 1.80-1.89. A very few measurements were 1.75. I did the first measurements with a digital caliper, and then checked them with a micrometer. They checked. I saw overextrusion symptoms (glopping off the head) and still saw them when I changed the filament measurement. I finally changed the extrusion percentage to 85%. The overextrusion symptoms went away, and the rings no longer had to be broken away.

After I printed one, the filament started measuring right at 1.75 with the calipers. The micrometer showed 1.748-1.753mm. I corrected the measurement in the slicer. I started getting over extrusion symptoms, very mild and reduced the percentage to 80%. I may try it at 75%.

I had trouble getting the rings to adhere. I increased temperature and finally got good adhesion at a bed temperature of 70C. This left the plastic near the bed plastic.

At 70C, a device would print but the entire lower section would deform. I finally determined that the deformation was caused by the platform temp. As I mentioned, the plastic would remain plastic at 70C. The part of the device closer to the base would deform, shrink a little. Surprisingly, the device worked great. So what I did was to use a Cura add-on to print three layers and then turn off platform heating. This got me good adhesion without a brim or base, but the heat went off before any significant deformation could occur. So:

PLA filament that changes color with temperature, nominal 1.75mm but significant variation.
Printing head temperature 210C - I will consider warmer because a few threads on the edges don't adhere well.
Blue tape on Aluminum
Bed temperature 70C (reprap 105C) for three layers, then heating off.
Extruder percentage 80-85%, considering 75%.
Thick walls so that all of the thin item printing is concentric
Thick top and bottom to make sure than the fill by the handle is covered.

Gianfranco if I scale it up 300% do you think that it will it work. I just do not want to try it and waste all of that filament.


hi Ipfroeb
unfortunately, if you scale up too much, the free space among rings increases; at a certain point the external rings come out and are no longer indivisible. I suggest to scale up no more than 30 - 40 %.
You need a different model if you want a bigger thing !

soo cool! works really well

soo cool! works really well

soo cool! works really well

soo cool! works really well

Excellent design, it's in my hand all day!

thank you Katz0 !

thank you Katz0 !

Tried this at 80% and 100% - they both melted into one solid blob. Trying a third d at 120% Using a Lulzlbot Mini with an ABS filament. not sure what else to try.

I had a similar problem with my mini. Cura tends to extrude too much, so after making sure your filament diameter is correct, try a flow rate of around 88%.

As you can see in the other comments, everybody has found a solution. Have a look at them, May be they will be useful.
Look also the Made things.
Are you using brim ? In this case you need to remove the part among the rings
Good luck

Which slicer are you using? I'm trying to slice this with Cura, print it with PLA in normal size on a Lulzbot Mini, but the first layer gets fused immediately so I just abort the print. I've tried disabeling all options in "Fix Horrible" in the Expert settings, but still the same problem. Any tips except scaling it up?

Solved the bottom layer issue. The "Initial Layer Line Width" was set to 125% so I changed it to 100%. Printing now with 0.05mm layer height so will take almost 10 hours :) Still looks quite tight between the rings but hopefully I can free them and perhaps lubricate a bit with vaseline :) Will post a picture once done if it comes out allright.

Hi anordvall.
The free space among rings is about 0.5 mm. It should work. I use Cura and I use brim, so I have to work a little bit to remove the brim among the rings.
The layer height should not have an influence on your problem.
Good luck !

Hello Gianfranco
your gyro is very fun .
can you give stl of each ring ? , i want try print this on two color , but i need stl for each ring

best regards

you can find the 6 files published in " gyroscopic relaxing keyring - 6rings. Special design " at http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1865056
good luck !

Just printed this on an UP! Plus 2 at 80% scale. Worked well, but it's a bit loose, so I've just scaled it to 70% and I'm printing a new one.

hi Luke Tansell.
Scaling down has a limit. You are reducing the free space among rings and at a certain point they will stick !
I suggest you to print my Gyroscopic keyring 11 , at http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1225044. It is a smaller model.

gyroscopic keyring 11

I just scaled it to 70% and it's perfect! Plus it's smaller, so it'll fit my keyring better

Can anyone help me to make the ring move. I just complete the inner most ring, 5 outer rings left :<

i have the exact problem, using davinci minimaker :(

hi thonghh_910
can you explain your problem better ?

Glad to see your response. Just checked some printing people posted, and the rings are movable as soon as they remove it from the bed. In my case, they somehow stuck together.
By apply some force I make some of them move, only 2nd-3rd and 3rd-4th ring from the centre left stuck. I guess this problem occurs because of my low-price Prusa i3 printer, with not very high resolution. Will try to apply more force to the stuck area.

Can anybody post their print settings? I've decreased the number of shells, avoided brim... But mine keep printing as a solid block.

hi Cramulus.
you can find here some comments about stuck rings.
You can also scale up the model by 10-15 %, increasing the free space between rings. Or you can print my gyroscopic keyring 2, at http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:644217, an easier model .
Good luck

gyroscopic keyring 2

Printed perfectly with Prusa i3 MK2 with PLA, layer 0.2mm with 10% infill.
Thanks :D

I can't stop playing with this thing!
Print came out very well but the rings did that a bit of wearing down by rotating it to make it spin properly :)

Thanks , printed and works perfectly all rings free and rotate , used Malyan M180 , PLA temp 198c , layer height 0.2000 mm with 15% grid infill

How long on average does this take

it takes about three hours to be printed, depending on Printing parameters

Hi I've printed this one a few times in different colors. Absolutely LOVE it! The only trouble I have is that the inner ring doesn't spin. From the pictures it looks like it should. I'm printing on a makerbot replicator 2 with default print settings but turning off the raft. When it first finishes the rings are stuck and I have to stick my plastic spatcula (I use for removing prints from the bed) in between the rings to get them free. No luck on the smallest inner ring. Any advice?

You should increase the free space between the two rings of 0.1 - 0.2 mm .
The best way is to reduce the inner ring, acting on the outer wall by a function as " modify " .
Good luck !

thank you Nicolinux !
75% scale is very strong for this model. It reduces too much the free space between rings, and they fuse togheter.
If you like a smaller thing, You can print my " gyroscopic keyring 11 " at http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1225044 . It is a different model, 4 cm max diameter.
I never use a free space < 0.5 mm, better 0.55.
This put a limit to scaling down, or you need a different model. On the contrary there is a limit to scaling up, or the ring comes out from the bigger one.....

gyroscopic keyring 11

Ok I printed the other keyring, but it is too big for my taste too. And if I scale it down to 75%, it has the same issue.

I wonder why there is a problem when scaling down because all other rings are fine. So maybe it really is the missing chamfer on the ring second to the core. I think it fooles the slicer into thickening the outline which then touches the core :/

May be, but I do not think that is only a question of chamfer, but a question of free space between rings, as I described. I think that 4 cm is the minimum diameter for a 6 ring keychain of good quality. A smaller diameter creates several problems in the quality of rings, at least with my printer.
But you can try, may be your printer will do better !
Good luck

I did, and it works well. Here is the model at 70% scale. Printed on an Ultimaker 2+ at 0.1 layer height.

Thank you for the model, I like it very much!
I've had great success printing it at 75% scale where all rings move freely and it prints without bumps on the inner surfaces. All rings except for the smallest one - the core. It is fused with the ring before it. I think this is due to a missing chamfer on the ring before the core.

It would be great if you could revise the model and add a chamfer on it Here is an image depicting the problem:

And if anybody needs a Cura 2.1.x profile for an Ultimaker 2+, here it is (object prints at 75% scale in about 1.5 hours):

Great! Perfect toy for fidgety fingers :)

thanks proto-plastick !

How long did this take to print? I have to print somewhere where they have a time restriction. Thanks!

Mine took 6 hours on the best setting on a Da Vinci Jr.

It takes about two hours and half.

Comments deleted.

Printed perfect. Printer accuracy and calibration is important.

My ring were slightly stuck from stringing, I just used a pin punch and a light tap and it freed them up.

Hi shadowslice187
You have to rotate the thing and to print it flat. Good luck !

So I am printing this on a Lulzbot Taz 5, and am having trouble printing it. I am using my normal settings that I use for complicated prints, but am still having a problem where this prints as a solid inseparable piece. I am printing it just as the file shows, am I supposed to rotate it and print it flat? Is there some special technique to break them apart, because mine is completely solid?

hi botanicalyn
Yes, you have to rotate it and print it on its base. good look !

I'm interested in making this thing. But, it come out in my program on its side. Does it print in its side? Or should I rotate it? It seems that printing on its base would be better.

the two parts overlap, so they should not break apart. I use Cura and I printed tens of this thing without problem, I suggest you to try !
good luck

I am having problem printing this thing. Simplify 3D says that the outer ring and key ring loop are not connected and slices such that they break apart after printing.

Here is a screenshot:


The trick in Simplify3D is to go under the Mesh menu and select "Separate Connected Surfaces". After a minute or so you will end up with multiple meshes in the list. If you then check the preview it should show the outer ring and key ring loop as attached. Mine printed fine with a strong connection after doing this.

Was this an intentional trick to make the connection stronger?

Not to make it stronger, but to make them print as a single part. An explanation can be found here:


Do you say that the STL model here is OK but Simplify3D has a bug?

yes, of course , it print one piece. The rings rotate in any direction one inside the other and they cannot be separated .
I have printed many of them on my Wasp Evo very well, the design is optimized. I suggest you to use 100% infill. good luck !!

Does this print one piece? How well does it work on a makerbot with pretty lousy print quality? It prints decently but not very accurate