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Geeetech GT2560 housing

by lukie80 Jan 20, 2016
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This case look fantastic. Looking forward to printing it for my geeetech i3 pro b with GT2560 rev A+.
I see my pcb is 81mm wide, so I will need to use the set_frame_81mm-wide version.
Is there a lid with 92.5 mm fan mounting and hole available? I have an old Noctua NF-B9 id like to use as its a great quiet fan.
If not I'll pick up an 80mm fan...

I have tried to print this case 3 times and all failed. The print time is saying 16 hours. This time I am at just over 10 hours and the print is starting to pill away from bed.

Is there a way to bring the print time down ?

Is the temps correct ?

Printing with sd card using cura

Any help would be great as the case does look good.

With respect to the lifting problem I suggest to use a glue stick (for paper) on the glass bed: Apply a thin even layer of glue when the bed is cold. This is an excellent method. Downside of this is that the bottom of the print will be a little ugly and not shiny and pulling off the part from the bed requires a sharp scraper. You can also activate the "brim" in your slicer for better corner adhesion. Finally putting your printer in wind-shielded box could also help.

The temperature depends on the filament and can range from 180°C to 220°C.

My slicer says print time is 10 hours, but in practice it is generally more.

Here are some nice pages dealing with printing problems:

Has anyone else come across the Case files not being manifold?

All of the cases load into Repetier host as 'Not Manifold', however all the lids are fine!

I have inspected them and there appears to be no issue and they slice fine but when printing it keeps stepping the print on the Y axis every 10 layers or so between 2 and 5mm!

I have had the STL repaired by a few different services and it still comes back as not manifold, with the same printing issues!

what material is recommended, pla or abs?

Hi Lukie, is there any chance you could create a version to suit the A+? It needs to allow for the controller to be 81mm wide


Finally got some time. Had to replace some hard coded geometry with parametric one. I've added a 81mm version for the A+. I've assumed the hole separation is like for the other boards (71.7mm) to be able to fit the printer frame. Only the 81mm lid will fit.

Thanks. I've just checked and the hole spacing appears to be the same as the other boards. I'll print one up today let you know the result.

One small fault that I've noticed- only one of the lid mount screw holes has been cut.

Indeed only one thread was cut out. I'm sorry for that. I've corrected the mistake. (Mistake: I edited a sub-configuration of the model, switched back to the main-configuration and didn't notice that the edits disappeared.) Also the cosmetic clam shell feature was missing which is now present.

You could still use the already printed model by drilling 3.5mm holes at the appropriate thread positions and then force screwing in the M4 screws.

Nooooooo I just printed the 81mm version overnight, so it is changed now.

Hello i print the case with my
Prusa i3 pro x acryl.

Pla 195
Bed 55
Speed 35
Move 40

Only the printer print print not so good.

Any body idea

Hi! Great Housing for my printer. I needed some customizations for my case and decided to rebuild this in Onshape.

Maybe this would be useful for others too:


If you have a GT2560 revA+ this case wont fit anymore. Its slightly bigger then the revA. Just in case you dont know this :)

Thanks for the info. I'll add it to the description.

Could you do a lid for a 60mm fan??

consegues arranjar para um ventilador de 70mm?

This should come standard with all Geeetech kits.

Nice design, after some initial problems, and 2-3 failed prints, I got this box printed.. Unfortunately my board is 1mm wider than yours (80.8mm), so it does not fit.

It also seems that my printer have shrinked the box slightly, as the compartment for the PCB is only 79.4mm wide.. So missing 1.4mm before my pcb can fit.

Is it possible for you to move the wall between the pcb and the wire compartment 1.5mm, so that there is more space for the pcba, and room for small deviations in printer accuracy (as well as in pcb widths)?

never mind, ended up in sanding things down to match..

Now I just have to put all the wires in..

Same here. I have the RevA+ and it WAS 1mm too wide. WAS is the key word. I used a Dremel and sanding drum to shave off that pesky 1mm from the board. I bought this board five months ago and now I'm using it on an AM8 build. But it didn't come with a power cable connector and I can't find one anywhere. Anyone have a clue as to where I might find one?

Hi!, thank for that nice desing,
I had that board, but i want to fit on the case an intel stock cooler fan, which i had some of them around here... they are silent but most powerful than other fans of its size...
will be too hard for you to make a version with a hole to fit the 77,5 mm diameter fan? the external frame is a round shaped with 92,4 mm of diameter. I will remove the 4 clips, so tha frame will be jus round and flat.

I think that 3 or 4 holes will be enought to fasten it with screws an washers.


Hi. Thanks. I made a custom lid for this Intel fan. It is meant to be fastened with 4 M3 screws and washers. You can use this free program (https://www.3d-tool.com/en_free-viewer-download.htm) to check if the dimensions are OK before printing.

Awesome, seems to be perfect, i will print it asap when recive the white PLA.

PS: i had cheked and measures the intel lid, it seems seamles and perfect adjust for skylake fan, but i had another one a bit older, i think sandy bridge or haswell that looks identical but is a bit smaller, anyway seems that will fit too.

Big ask I know, but would it be possible to get a customised version of this case, with cutouts for two 40 or 60mm fans, and all non wiring holes blanked off from the inside surface (keeping the hex pattern on the outer surface if possible)

I'm wanting to completely seal the electronics box, with cooling provided by the two fans via two ducts to the outside of my enclosure (one blowing cool outside air into the electronics box, the second as an extractor fan blowing back out of the enclosure.

My plan for the wiring ports is to seal them with grommets

I hope that this all makes some kind of sense to you :-)


Shouldn't be a big thing. I think I understand. So you want to have both fans on the lid, I suppose? Should they be close to each other above the board or far away? Any preference for the fans?

Hi, thanks for getting back to me.

Yep, both fans on the lid.
If it's possible having them on diagonal corners of the lid which should give some airflow across the board.

40mm fans will give the most spacing but whatever works best for placement will be fine.

hi Lukie,

Did you get chance to have a look at it? no worries if you didn't. I'm sure you have a life away from 3D models, especially at this time of year.

EDIT - Just noticed the updated files, I'll have a look in the morning.
Thanks ever so much Lukie :-)

best regards

You were correct. :) This time of the year I was busy with different other things.

I tidied up the model history. Similar to good programming practices there are also good CADing practices. I've implemented a version for 40mm fans so far. I placed one exactly between the 4 stepper drivers and the other above the three FETs with a tendency towards the heatbed FET: The The heatbed FET drives the heat-bed with around 130W so it requires the most cooling. The hot-end FET drives the hot-end with around 30W so it should be cooled too. My stepper drivers (TMC2100) get very hot, so they get some cooling too. The ATMEGA chip doesn't require any cooling, because it doesn't compute much.

So what do you think? Some things to change or add?

Great design, just made one and installed it. Printer now looks great.



I included a link in this youtube video, which also shows the housing at about 35:00.

And Thanks again,

Love the design and I am going to use it on a P3Steel frame!
It will make everything sooo much neater with the cables!
I have not assembled the electronics of the Pro B for testing yet, but I was wondering something.

Does the GT2560 board need modifications to be able to use it with printing with USB?
I have tried the MKS Base and that fries when USB is connected and the power is turned on.
And the Ramps 1.4 needs a diode removed if it is to be used with USB printing.

Hope somebody can answer.
Have not tried this board before, and it is kind of expensive to just test if it burns out.

I can't find any schematics of the "MKS Base". For this reason I wouldn't buy this board. No changeable stepper drivers? another minus.

Strange. Looking at the RAMPS+Arduino schematics USB-5V is disconnected on the Arduino if Vin is supplied by the RAMPS board via Vin. I see no reason for a diode being removed when the PSU and USB connection are powered. Do I miss something?

The GT2560 is similar to RAMPS+Arduino. It also disconnects USB-5V if PSU is on. I have a GT2560 board "rev. B" but only schematics for "rev. A".Nevertheless, I can operate my GT2560 with USB or PSU or both at the same time. No problems so far. I'm using Octoprint on a Raspberry for streaming commands via USB. This allows at least 132 commands per second.

BTW the GT2560 has the advantage to be modded with low effort (1x cut, 3x scratch, 3x soldering) to allow to drive the steppers with a different voltage via an external DC-DC converter (for the TMC2100 for example). See http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1484476. RAMPS requires more effort (3x cut, 5x scratch, 7x soldering).

DC booster housing
by lukie80

Thanks for the answer.
I must admit that I did not try the Ramps without removing the diode.
I looked at the wiki for it and it mentioned removal of the diode.

The mks base was shipped with a Migbot prusa i3 and that was pumping out white smoke when the usb was inserted.
Burned the 1st because i followed the instructions.
And a 2nd because I hoped the 1st was defective.
The 3rd is now used standalone with lcd and sd.
I used that as a reason to remove the diode on the ramps, did not need to fear the smoke ;)

I am going to use the GT2560 board with octoprint, that is why I asked.

Edit: I have revision A, and thanks to your help I have tested it and found it to be working exactly as you said!
Thanks for the help!!

Any hints on printing? Filling etc?
On 20% my Slic3r tells me nearly 11 hours for it to print.(Geeetech Prusa i3 pro B).

Does it really take that long?

Infill of 15-20% is a good choice. I mostly print at a speed of 30mm/s and a layer height of 0.2mm. Yes, almost 11h is normal. At 50mm/s it will take almost 7h, but the optical quality won't be as good: Strong ringing will occur.

Printed in ~4h now, used simplify3d and some speed-ups directly on control panel, came out really good.

2 hours later, all cables are in there. Thanks!

I have 2x2560's and neither of them fits n the case properly. it is easily modified, but ouch! that was a lot of pla and time tubed.

Sorry to hear that. I was not aware of different sizes of the boards. I'll put up a dimensions warning in the description. Thank you for your input!

Because I just run my 80mm fan at full blast, I ended up adding some more breathing holes in the top, bottom, upper and lower lid.
I am still amazed that I got the big ugly heap of wiring in that little box.

Thanks again : )

I'm happy to hear that you like it. Looks like I use a slow fan which hardly uses the provided holes. :D

u need to remove the fillets from the hexagon holes and the walls are a little thin

Hi. I've removed the chamfers on the honeycomb structure in version1.1. I suggest using "Lift Z during retraction" because it should improve print-ability.

looks cool but very difficult to print

A lot of warping on the bottom edges with ABS, may someone help for first layer infill pattern to use? (slic3r)

BTW this is the best cable managing for GT2560 ever made. thank you


You had success printing it with ABS?

Best regards.

No success with ABS, but please consider it can be a filament quality problem. Printed in PET instead with success.

Do you have an enclosure for your printer?

I'm building a to mine now. I did an attempt without enclosure and had problems of warping.

Did you the box using PET or PETG? I can't find PET on Brazil.

Can Prusa I3 Pro B print with PETG?

Hi Fernando! Unfortunately I don't have an enclosure, but in theory, it will be not necessary if you use PETG or PET. Print such a big thing with a cheap printer like I3 Pro B is a mess in my opinion. There are so many component that are not good, that I always have problem with bed leveling, starting with the glass, it is not flat, and does not transfer correctly the heat. So I changed it to a mk3 aluminum+kapton, then I found the smooth rods were bent out of the box, and exchanged with hardened ones. Then the mk8 with plastic extruder failed on long prints, changed it with the aluminum one. So, this were not a good printer, which is better with some mods you can find in my thingiverse collection. I'm printing with PETG now, and yes, the layer bonding is great, bed adherence also, but you have to print it so slow, and the finished part shows all the imperfection since it is very shiny. It's more like a glue, so the hot end must be cleaned by hand before printing since it sticks everywhere and easely became a mess. May I ask you, did you engeneered the ferduino board?


Thanks for clarifications.

I didn't know about the problem with with plastic parts on MK8 extruder.

For now I'm thinking to buy an aluminum plate to place over the bed fixed with some thermal adhesive.

Regarding Ferduino, yes I'm the developer. Do you like of aquarium?

Best regards.

How dare you make something so awesome that I rewired my whole printer.
I just had came to the conclusion that during very long prints, the driver might be getting warm. The stock fan is just silly. I downloaded your case, and it works great. The printer is quieter, cooler, and all the wires fit.

On the Geetech i3 Dual, I needed to shave down one of the proud areas around the screws.

I am glad you integrated a 80mm fan. They are quiet and I had some kicking around.

Great case Thank you!

Cool! How hot does the board get with the fan? Too hot for PLA?

I printed mine from PLA.
It would seem that if the fan is running, then the driver should remain pretty cool.

I have no numbers, but in general the Atmega2560 doesn't need cooling and the 3 FETs need a little active cooling. But in particular my TMC2100 stepper drivers (they make the motors super silent!) need a good air flow, because they get very hot. And the 80mm fan sits just above the drivers for that reason.

Thanks for the reply! We will find out soon enough:p

I've just printed the box (will post soon) it's great and as you said it's a snug fit, excellent work! I have only a few problems that you might be able to help with, the gt2560 fan sockets are 3 pin and all the fans I have from previous board are 2 pin, what was your solution, and also which fan socket in 1,2,3 and pm are for extruder fans and blower fans.


Well, my fans have 3 Pins, so I had no problem. I connected the extruder fan to 1, case fan to 2 and the PWM connector to the blower for variable cooling. For your problem: I'd suggest to buy three "PH2.0 3-Pin connector plug female" (for example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/171346705552), cut the fan wires and solder them to the new 3-pin plugs.

Hereby, be careful, the pin layout on the board (http://www.geeetech.com/wiki/index.php/GT2560#Interface_Layout) does not match typical pin layout of a fan (http://www.allpinouts.org/index.php/Motherboard_(CPU)_3_Pin_Fan_Connector). Take care to match both while soldering.

Is the PWN connector the only fan slot that can be variable controlled, I am going to use the board for dual extruder do planning to use 2 blower fans and guess I may have to link them both together

Yes. It is the only practical one. So link them together.

There are probably some unused pins on the Atmega 2560 chip. I suppose RAMPS is much better with respect to this. Here some info: http://www.geeetech.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=16923. It is the "digital pin 13 PWM" which should be connected to a FET to be able to drive a fan. Furthermore the firmware had to be modified to be able to use pin 13. So quite a lot of work.

Thanks for the info, I have ordered the needed parts

Is there a reason for changing the fan to a bigger 80mm? or can I use the provided 12 mm geeetech fan? Obviously by modifying the model.

I suppose you mean the provided 40mm fan? The 80mm fan has much higher air flow than the 40mm fan (4x) and is more silent. (I am using the awesome ultra-silent TMC2100 drivers @24V which unfortunately get extremely hot, so I need a lot of cool air.)

Nevertheless, you can use this simple adapter: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:21112 (80-40.STL). This is much easier than modifying the model.

Various fan size conversion adapters.

What is the RPM of the fan you are using?

It is a cheap 80mm. It should have 2000rpm I think.

Thanks this is awesome.

I see that you mounted the board with the usb cable down as per the instructions. I on the other hand did it with the usb on top. Makes the cable runs a little nicer. Different strokes for different folks I guess. I had also made one check it out. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:986158
GREAT JOB thanks. :-)

Robert KB3LNN

PRUSA I3 Mother Board Case "UPDATE"
by kb3lnn

Indeed. Having the heavy heat-bed cables mounted on top would be better for heat-bed movement. I searched Thingiverse but did not find your model. Well, Thinigiverse search is strange: Look for "button" and you'll find nothing but "Button" works. Looks like your RS program Digispark can import STEP files.