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For anyone looking for a metal pinion gear for the NEMA 14 stepper -- Steel or aluminum 48P 19T 5mm bore gears are readily available on Ebay for around $8-12 from R/C car vendors. The 48P 94T gears are a lot harder to source -- but can be found, also from R/C car part vendors on ebay. I found one made by an outfit called Team Losi (as seen in the photo) but it will need a printed hub to use with a 5mm shaft. I plan to design one and I will upload it when it's done. Otherwise a printed gear will probably work all right if it's printed in PETG or ABS to deal with the heat from the motor. The 19T gear is the really critical one as a printed gear may get soft and deform.
Update 4/10/2019 -- I've just uploaded the gear hub project to Thingiverse here --> https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3555762 . You can use this project to make a hub for yout Team Losi 48P 94T drive gear. Enjoy!
Hello. I used a spring from a ballpoint retractable pen. I cut it in half. Slide the spring on the 30mm screw. Slide the screw through the idler tensioner and through the slots in the extruder base and attach with the nyloc nuts. 1 thread showing past the nut is all you will need to provide enough pressure to drive the filament. Some of the pictures in the instruction manual shows the springs in the wrong position. Hope this help.
Thanks, actually that makes a lot of sense. I'll give it a try tonight.
Can anyone tell me how the Idler Tensioner is supposed to work? The springs I have get caught in the slots in the Extruder Base. Plus it seems to me that they would be more useful behind the extruder base and against the nyloc nuts, to provide tension on the idler bearing? What's the function of the screws for anyway?
Any chance of having the bondtech style gears in this extruder?
Anybody knows of a filament sensor (like the prusa MK3) to use with this extruder, I'd like to use this extruder with the Prusa MMU2 unit.
Have anyone found a X-carriage to work with Prusa MK3 ? I mean a carriage that allow the cables to run under or in middle of the smooth rods and not above the rods.
Well, just did a remix of the thing https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1302584 to allow an under cable to use with Prusa MK3.
Can i Mount this on My anycubic i3 Mega ?
Which mount of the bltouch is correct or is there a fix for the part?
Will it be possible to have a geared belt version ? Like this : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1127022
First of all, very nice work, thank you so much.
I would like to use a different motor and adapt this for my delta though... Is there any way to get editable cad files, like fusion or solidworks?
anyone know the best way to mount this guy up to my anycubic i3 mega?
2.85mm (3mm) Filament Setup
A little update regarding using the Toranado extruder to run 3mm filament. I have been testing now for 1.5 weeks and it is working just fine with a PETG gear (standard size ratio) and the standard spec'd NEMA14 stepper. Just have to slow speeds down to ~70mm/s to allow enough heat dwell time.
I have a set of original Gears. I've changed setups and am willing to sell them to someone. It would come with the shaft and stepper motor. So let the bidding begin!. Should I post it on Ebay you guys think?
Decided to list it on Ebay, this is the Nema 14, shafts,bearings, Gears. The Main Drive gear is included but is too small so you will need the one listed on this site. Happy bidding!
FINALLY !!! I got the gears that work with this thing:
Steel Metric spur gear 0.5M 19T 5mm shaft hole:https://pt.aliexpress.com/item/-/32849326151.html?spm=a2g0s.13010208.99999999.260.5db83c00VRxYbH
Steel Metricspur gear 0.5M 100T 5mm shaft hole:https://pt.aliexpress.com/item/-/32847905772.html?spm=a2g0s.13010208.99999999.263.5db83c00VRxYbH
These gears give a close ratio compared to original 48dp 94t / 48dp 19t.
I have a set of original Gears. I've changed setups and am willing to sell them to someone.
Can you give an update about those gears? Are they still holding up? How’s performance with the extruder ?
Hi. I don't recommend the seller of these gears. I bought it about 1 month ago and till today the seller didn't ship the items. Worst yet, today when I was looking about the shipment, the tracking shows "shippment canceled". Will not buy from this seller anymore. Now I have to find another place to buy these gears. Well, I will have to work with printed gears till I find these metal gears.
After reading your original post, I was under the assumption that you already received and installed these gears.
Will this nema14 work (https://pt.aliexpress.com/store/product/Nema-14-Stepper-Motor-Bipolar-1-8-Degree-12-5Ncm-17-7oz-in-1A-4-lead/1984315_32862595217.html?spm=a2g03.12010108.1000016.1.14766547fuIjHw&isOrigTitle=true). It have a little more torque and also works at 1A.
Where to buy the 94T and 21T gears ? I see people talking about alternatives like 92T on aliexpress, but I didn't see anybody talking if it works or not.
Also in the building instructions (Pic. 29) there's a: "Install heated M3x4 Knurl Nut into 2.1-30mmfanmount.stl using same method as shown in Step #22.". What is suposed to be screwed in this nut ? In the building instructions there's nothing fastened into this.
Hi, I have been looking at this extruder for my printer upgrade. What concerns me is the gears and their lack of availability.
Custom works make an aluminum gear 94T however the cost to buy and ship to Australia is the same price as a complete E3DV6 hotend !
Is it possible to use RC gears 92T and 21T combination with a printed hub as a cheaper alternative ?
I finally posted some mods I have been using for a bit. Hope you can get use from them.
Quick Fit System for Toranado SIDE MOUNT to v-slot 2020 railhttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3026327
Toranado Part Cooler Modhttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3026289
Nema 14 Cooler 40x40 for Toranado TPGE SIDE MOUNThttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3026285
Hi, i have a problem with the side mount version.
The heatblock is to close to the fan duct and I think the heatblock will melt the fan duct.
Does anyone have a solution?
I have the same build and from looking at your pic, everything look good. Happy printing.
you are right it working great.
ps. the website is horrible. it takes 7 min to write a comment...
I can't find the 94T main gear, what are the alternatives? Printed gears? 92T gear would work?
I want to offer a new youth to my old Prusa i3 with metal frame, would your recommend something else?
The printed gears are not good. the worm screw doesnt fit in the plastic.
iam searching right now for the main gear in metal or aluminium.
Thanks. But there is not the main gear. I found this links:
Could you share this gear adapter ? It's very interesting
Вроде бы это
Where can i find the x-carriage for the side-mount version?
The side mount version uses the same x-carriage as the regular mount. The only difference is it uses 3 holes to mount instead of 4.
AGreenV5 where can i find the regular mount?
This mount doesnt fit.. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1302584
I will warn you, I printed the side version of the toranado, and the stepper would bottom out before the limit switch would trigger.d.. I just have some folded cardboard taped there for now, but I was thinking of just printing out a spacer and drilling some holes in the side. You could probably even make a well placed self tapping screw work just fine to hit the limit switch.
Also, all the other parts frm the "stock" PGE x-carriage are used to complete this. the bearing holders, etc.
Sorry, it doesnt fit
btw the endstop is not the problem
I mounted mine with that triangle corner facing down, and 3 of hte screw holes lined up just fine. I'm actively using that very bracket.
cant find gear sets kits any tips on that
I am looking at getting some nylon ones made up for testing from my supplier here in Australia and if they are made right I will possibly get some aluminum ones made in the future.
Has anyone thought about, or created a mount that would hold a left AND right mode Toranado extruder to create a dual extruder installation? I'd give up a little X axis length to be able to print with two filaments.
Any chance of a new stock of hardware kits / 94T gear in the future?
I found those gears on Chinese taobao for less then 4 buckshttps://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a1z0d.7625083.1998302264.5.686c4e69VjrF2c&id=564669556297
I'm going to print all parts and give it a try
I'm going to buy a couple to play with too I reckon.
Souko, I'll print one only if I can't find an aluminum one.
I know PETG is strong, but wear factor scares me with how much time I've invested in this damn thing!
Edit: Just ordered 3, make it worth my while. Buying them was a total nightmare xD
haha, For me it's easy, I live in China, Language is a bit of a pain in the ass, as I am not Chinese ;-)
But using the website with Crome is ok, it translates the site.
If your ordered the same as the link i provided then you are ok, However they are steel, drilling the big 4mm hole was ok but the 3 2.5mm holes took 7 drill bits. and don't try to drill them by hand ;-P
PS did you told them you want 5mm hole? because they have many different
I told them 5mm, yes. But, they didn't ship after two weeks, didn't respond to the request to ship multiple times, didn't respond to the refund, and the site stepped in and refunded me... :'(
Guess I'm sh!t out of luck...
PS, beautiful job you've done with it!
Here you are
different material, but it will do the trick
I guess they don't understand you when you write a massage, the problem is that 99% of chinese people in China don't speak English,
What I'm doing is Google translate then send them the Chinese text, translation is maybe not so good but it does the trick. have you tried aliexpress, there are many companies selling them.
Just print your own Gear ;-)
You can download it here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2061670
Have you tried these Souko? Looks like the only option to go with for the time being.
I printed another set in nylon.
Works since November.. about 3 kg PLA printes are gone through my Toranado with Nylon-Gears.
Of course there's some abrasion - but looks ok.
can i install this on the tevo tarantula?
I would go for the side mount style. You will need to design a new hotend plate to fit the extruder.
can this be used for the Anycubic I3 Mega?
I would go for the side mount style. You will need to design an adapter to fit the extruder.
Is it possible to wire up an E3D without removing the molex connectors on the thermistor and fan or do they have to be removed? It doesn't look like it is going to fit.
Having gone through some pain getting one of these working, I thought I'd summarize lessons learned.
Use an E3D hotend
They're made better but more importantly the heat sink is better engineered with a larger thermal mass for the heat break, and better conductive material (aluminum).This yields better forgiveness and a sharper cutoff at the heat break. It also comes with nice little connectors on the thermistor and fan so you can replace these without totally rewiring.
Print in PET
Nobody says this up front but you figure out after a while that a bunch of the extruder is exposed to high temperatures. Buy yourself some cheap insurance.
Source for metric hardware
McMasters Carr, to your door in a few days. Anything you care to buy, english sizes too.
Figure this out a head of time and make sure it will fit without binding. The recommended one was beautiful but wouldn't work for me. Getting stuck is really awkward.
A dremel is your best friend. Have a light hand and some wood and tungsten carbide cutters to clean things up and adjust.
Keep this to around 500mA or you risk stripping pieces of filament, it also creates excess heat in the stepper.
Is there an alternative to the UltiBots MK7 drive gear? UltiBots has been out of stock for months.
I am also having this problem, I have been happily printing with this extruder for almost a year now and I am finally at the end of my first drive gear. the only manufacturer of this part is out of stock and no idea when they will be back in. my printer is now down because of this!!! crap!! please help, I have important projects to complete.
I just ordered this part from ebay:https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=181764562443
Hardened MK7 Drive Gear Clone
5 mm bore
12.7 mm OD
13.1 mm Length
11.4 mm Hobbed Diameter (Actual hobbed diameter may be slightly less due to the bite of the teeth)
For 1.75 mm and 3 mm Plastic Filament
Fits the shaft of the NEMA 17 Stepper Motor XYZ
Works well with both ABS and PLA Filament
Sharp teeth designed to dig into the plastic filament for a good grip
Material: Machined stainless steel (304)
Looks like it has the 11.4mm effective drive diameter. It is listed as 13.1mm long. The spec-ed drive gear
is only 11mm long. Will see how it does.
thanks for the response, I bought these and they arrive today.https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KJONSRS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Anything in the works for 2020 extrusion like on the CR-10 or Tronxy etc
A quick search might help. For example, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1544446
I have a ?working? toranado sortof. Some things are in the way of it really working properly though:
1) The carriage for the i3 (PGE) seems to be ever so slightly off and is causing binding. This keep the X axis from sliding properly. Has anyone else had the problem and is there a matching set of X support end blocks recommended?
2) The hotend sees to fill with filament rather than passing it even if I carefully get it started manually. The details are a little sketchy in the instructions. I'm using the E3 RepRap metal J head. It seems to run fine manually pushing filament.
-- added 2/12 --
I'm coming to the conclusion that this is an overly complicated solution. I liked the idea of the "cartridge" but it won't come out without requiring reseating the plugs. The actual wiring is tricky since space is at a premium and the overall construction is (understandably) very sensitive to calibration and thus best done in a single run.
What really doesn't want to work is the actual extrusion. I've cleared the nozzle a number of times but despite the gears being firmly (really firmly) engaged on the filament I get clogging and grinding.
I have been using the Toranado for over a year now and I never had any of the problems you mentioned. I think it might be a hotend temperature issue or some foreign material in the nozzle and/or throat.
From which area do the plugs fall out, main body or hotend?
I've done some more checking and I need to try again. I didn't realize that the bowden needed to be filled with PFTE tubing, which probably caused a good deal of problems. I have new heatbreaks on order and I'll assemble a new hotend with that and a new nozzle. I think the nozzle was pretty jammed up despite attempts to clear it from both the inside and outside.
The temp was good I believe.
Let me circle around tomorrow after retrying with the new nozzle and heatbreak. The actual gearing and extruder is doing it's job. If this all works out well I still want to figure out why the extraction yanks connectors loose. I think a dupont connector might be a better choice. 6 pins and a single body.
Good and bad. With the heatbreak properly filled with PFTE I'm not pushing a piece of spaghetti. However after a bit the filament gets ground by the gear and no longer advances. The amount of extruded fiber looks about appropriate. Any thoughts?
I have a few. But first, a few questions. Which connectors come loose? What type of filament are you using? Have you tried to manually feed the filament through the extruder set to an adequate temperature? IE: PLA~220C, ABS~230C, PETG~250. I am guessing there must still be some kind of obstruction in the filament feed path. Another thing to look at would be the idler pressure on the MK7 Drive Gear, Too much pressure will cause binding. I have mine set that it barely leave marks on the filament from the MK7 drive gear.
The JST connectors have have small tabs which fit in groves in the extruder base and the connector cover. Same goes for the hotend assembly.
Hopefully this will help. Let me know how things go.
I built it out of PEG and was trying to print at 230 C. I've also tried PLA at 210. The problem isn't the materials, nor with the idler tension (although I loosened it up quite a bit).
What appears to be happening is that a clog forms in the metal heat break. I cleaned out the restriction and got about a layer but then something clogged again (hard to say what - I tried to clean out with Ethyl Acetate after clearing the restriction but it might just be the nozzle. I did cycle through hand feeding manually a number of times and pulling the filament from the extruder. Each time the new filament extrudes freely with just hand pressure but after a few second stops and no amount of pressure is budging it.
The JST connectors as wearing in a bit so they aren't pulling out as much. It's the lower set I'm having trouble with - I do know how it is supposed to work in theory, but in practice it has been troublesome.
I'm wondering whether my use of a clone of the E3D could be a problem, the one I'm using is from reprap guru. I've also needed to buy some new heatbreaks.
I tried working on the heat break some more. It is currently entirely clogged and remains so regardless of what I do. Clearly replacing the break would work, but it would be nice to find a better solution.
What is your retraction length set to? Don't set to more than 1.8mm or 2.0mm at most. I had the same issue with a clone. Reset the retraction and no more clog, then rebuilt with genuine parts and its smooth. GL.
The thing is that it is clogging just being hand fed or sitting waiting for a print to start. The bore in the break has been cleared out a few times, this last time I ran a thin dremel drill bit against it in hopes of polishing it a bit.
I did fix the retraction length, but I'm just not getting that far.
Can anyone explain what the genuine parts bring to the party? The clone I got wasn't badly made and I'm not sure how anything other than the break can affect the clogging. Probably just ignorance on my part.
If you get a clog just with the extruder sitting in idle mode then your problem is just the heat sink not cooling properly so the heat grows up after the heat breaker which is not uncommon to happen if the airflow is not enough.
Try to check the fan if is running smooth and deliver a proper airflow, or change it, there are mo magic things to do for an extruder, just a few rules to follow that's it.
My 2 cents
Chinesium is good... when it works. They prolly made the clone out of old melted-down prison caffeteria trays, doped with silverware. Now you got parts with uneven thermal distribution gradients. WHO REALLY KNOWS???... but the genuine product really is better, all around.
OMFG I almost fell out of bed. Chineasium.
I have a brand new E3D on order with a jst connector kit so can avoid soldering. I doubt I’ll regret getting it given what I’m hearing and I’m clearly wasting my time as is. Just looking at the kit made it clear how committed they are to quality.
I never ask what brand printer you are fitting this extruder on? What firmware is running the printer? Did you ever do a PID tune on the extruder? Is the hotend fan running when on? I know, so many questions. Just trying to get to the bottom of this issue. Filament should not melt that far up the throat. It should only melt in the heat block up to the heat break.
The printer is from a kit based on the i3 prusa design. I do like assembling things so the kit was fun. I replaced the cheapo z axis rods with real thrust screws early on.
The printer is being run from a smoothieboard running the latest smoothieware. The hotend fan from the cheap extruder won't run at less than 50% duty cycle so no, it isn't always running despite the configuration that should keep it on if the hot end is over 60C.
You're right about the filament melting. The whole point of the massive heatsink, fan and narrow wasted heat break is to limit the melting to the hot end's block. Clearly going cheap on the hot end has not worked for me.
I'm not sure what a PID tune is. I did setup the step count per mm for the extruder, but perhaps that isn't what you're referring to.
BTW - the smoothie drivers and software are amazing. The printer went from a major noise maker to almost silent. The only caveat is that you have to buy the real smoothie board, the MKS sbase were nice but burnt out after two or three weeks of use. Kinda like the imitation E3D hot ends not working... I guess you do get what you pay for.
Very cool. I build mine from scratch base on this design, "https://www.logre.eu/wiki/Logresse/en" It took over a year to acquire the parts, assemble and tune to a work printer. I'm very happy how it turned out. It is running from a Arduino/ Ramps setup control by the latest Marlin firmware. A small view of the semi finish printer here, "https://www.thingiverse.com/make:293870".
I found the Smoothieware wiki, here "http://smoothieware.org/" and under the temperature control, there is instructions on how to setup thermocouple and PID autotune the extruder and heatbed. Check out Tom's Guide videos. His videos have been extremely useful to setup my printer.
I hope this help . Good Day.
Progress, I'm waiting for the E3D but I got the original hot end working and not clogging. I changed the config in the smoothie file to "digital" which seems right anyway. It doesn't make sense to run the extruder cooling fan at partial speed.
I'm having some issues with getting the feed quite right, but that seems much more doable. Hints happily accepted. It starts ok then stops feeding. There's barely an impression on the filament, so it seems that the idler is loose even though the screws on the keeper are fairly tight.
Thank you all, the last piece fell into place. I put stiffer springs in the idler keeper and that made the difference. It was exciting to print a whole part in pla! I started to print another hot end holder for the e3d but ran out of steam, but pet was printing fine. So now I’ll have a working spare hot end, which could prove handy.
Does anyone know why the small extruded stepper stays so hot even when not in use? It must be around 80c, burning hot. I’ve seen something like this with the coordinate steppers but not so extreme and at least I understand that they are still on.
Hello. Have a look here "http://smoothieware.org/currentcontrol" on how to adjust the stepper motor current. The Nema-14 stepper motor current should be set around 500 mA. With the current set appropriately, the Nema -14 will get warm (not hot) during use but should cool down when sitting idle. I mounted a heat sink and 30 mm fan on the back end of the stepper motor to keep it cooler during use. The axis stepper motors current should be around 1.2 to 1.5 A depending on the specs of your steppers. Adjust those values until the stepper run smooth and lukewarm without missing steps.
Clogging under control - check
Current reduced - work in progress
Gears loosened after they bound up
The problem now is that it feeds a cm or so and then grinds away a piece of filament and stalls because there's nothing to grab. I can push to restart but the cycle just repeats. I've tried tightening to no avail and now I'm loosening to the minimum I can find. Hints?
Cool. Glad to hear some success happening. I remember you added a teflon tube to your setup. Ensure it is not getting in between the idler and MK7. I should be close but not touching anything. Have you tried feeding filament, 1 centimeter at the time with Smoothieware. Maybe the filament feed rate is set too high or filament temperature is too low. Those thermistor are not that accurate.
The teflon tube is definitely fine, it is several mm's away from the idler. The extrusion works via the smoothieware control panel or the repetier control panel. The thermistor may be off but the temperature has the filament melting.
The differences are that during printing there is more back pressure because the nozzle is close to the glass and I suppose the speed could be different but I would have assumed that the extrusion stepping rate would be the same regardless.
OK, working. The assembly had shifted downward and was too tight against the glass. Presumably too much backpressure caused it to have problems. I relieved it and reprinted and everything it copacetic.
The genuine E3D comes tomorrow but that may wait for a set of spare parts to be printed since everything is working, I could use a rest from extruders and I have other things I'd like to print other than extruders and carriages.
With even modest force on the glass as is needed for adhesion the gear strips the filament. I'm very, very frustrated. At this point getting a titan is looking really attractive - it will just work and I can complain to E3D if it doesn't. I've done everything suggested, I've cleaned the drive gear with a dremel, everything looks good but it isn't working right, it prints for a minute or two then stops advancing.
Well. I now know the rest of the story. First, when doing a Z-Axis homing, the nozzle should end up ever so close to the print surface without touching it. Second, in order to get a successful first layer, you will need to adjust your z-offset to achieve a small gap between the extruder and the print surface. About the thickness of a business card is a good starting point. Squishing that first layer onto the bed will never give you proper results and cause some of the issues you have been describing. Check out these two articles. "http://forum.makergear.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=3124" and "http://forum.makergear.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=2593".
-- A lot of reactive rambling by this author removed --
The toranado is working, although the thermistor connector needs replacement (understandably) after so many insertions
I want to thank everyone for their patience, having been on the other end of this sort of thing I know how difficult it
can be to try and help with less than full information. But we managed it!
I tried to summarize what I learned in a separate post so the next builder can avoid some of my mistakes. Especially the not buying
an E3D part :)
Great job! Love the concept but dependecy of legacy hardware is just not convenient, is there any roadmap for a fully printed one??
Hello Friend, good jod, thanks for share !!! So... You have this project in solidworks format files ? My email firstname.lastname@example.org
First of all -- thank you to @Toronado3D for making this extruder!
There is one thing missing from the instructions -- what is the standard Wiring Diagram for the connector?
Is it [HEATER][THERMSISTOR][FAN]??
OMG, This thing is GORGEOUS! Aesthetically pleasing as well as functionally awesome!
Please, can you share the STEP model also (without the PADS)? Thanks
Can anyone help me please Im looking for the 94T 48p main gear I try to look at Ebay, Amazon, Gearbest but I couldnt find it can anybody link me an address or name of site where I could find it thank you I appreciate.
m looking for the 94T 48p main gear I try to look at Ebay, Amazon, Gearbest but I couldn
I found this one: https://www.amainhobbies.com/custom-works-truespeed-48p-spur-gear-94t-cswts6894/p705910?v=701817
It needs an adapter though.
I got a 92T 48p aluminum gear for RC cars from Aliexpress. I haven't assembled it yet but my calculations say it will fit. I just held the parts roughly together and it looks fine. I designed an adapter for it and I will upload it when I can confirm it works.
Hi DopeJohnny, can you share the Aliexpress link with us ? Thanks !
Oops ... cried out for help to soon:https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/2pc-lot-Motor-Gear-23T-48P-HSP-Spare-Parts-Upgrade-Parts-With-Pinion-Metal-gear-For/32624819576.html?spm=a2g0z.search018.104.22.168508e58bRwYyl&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_3_10065_10344_10068_10342_10343_10340_10341_10084_10083_10618_10304_10615_10307_10301_10313_10059_10534_100031_10103_441_10624_442_10623_10622_10621_10620_10142,searchweb201603_32,ppcSwitch_5&algo_expid=762a7461-14af-44eb-85fe-f6aa98818615-0&algo_pvid=762a7461-14af-44eb-85fe-f6aa98818615&priceBeautifyAB=5
Anyone selling the 48p 94T Aluminium main gear or the 40x40x15 Delta Bed cooling fan AFB0412SHB?
Or maybe knows someone who does, kinda desperate right now :(
It's almost a crime to stop selling hardware kits for such a beautiful peace of artwork.
Looking forward for a solution, thanks a lot
I got a 92T 48p (not 94T) aluminum gear and the AFB0412SHB from aliexpress. My calculations say the 92T gear should work fine. I designed an adapter for it and I will upload it when I can confirm it works.
Can we expect another drop of hardware kits in near future?
I am selling what I have virtually at cost search eBay for "Toranado Extruder Parts Unused"
I would like to see them too :(
I'm just completing construction. When I move the gear by hand the filament doesn't advance. I've tried tightening the idler as much as I can. It seems like the bearing isn't making contact. I've looked over the instructions - what am I missing?
I have the problem solved, and it all has to do with my not understanding what to do and the results of printing the pieces. Because the pieces were somewhat rough they didn't slide well and I didn't make the idler "latch" nearly tight enough to engage the gear. Sanding the surfaces and tightening things fixed all that.
I was confused because I was turning the decoration on the big gear to run things (I want it to work outside of the printer first) and the gear was slipping on the axle. That was easy to fix with a better set screw and grinding a flat on the axle.
Now I need to buy some gears. The ones I printed are too out of round. Any pointers? Otherwise things look good. I do want to reprint some parts in PETG - any suggestions on what parts are the priorities?
Good job. :-)
In a earlier post,
ieatacid - in reply to traumajocky
Oct 19, 2017
There's an acetyl gear here on my parts spreadsheet, near the bottom. If you go that route be sure to get a hub and screws too.
Follow his link to the spreadsheet.
The bearing holder is the most important part to print with PETG, Extra removable hot end assemblies is my next step. I also printed the lower cover assembly with bltouch mount.
Even with the new base it isn't gripping. Could I have that MK7 on backward? It is slightly better. I'm going to reprint the part that hold the idler, that seems like another failure point.......
I'm going to throw some ideas at you. Is the idler bearing a 6255zz? Is that bearing touching any part of the hot end PTFE tube holder when the idler is closed? I had to trim some of the tube push to release ring on mine. The orientation of the MK7 should not matter as long as it lined up with the filament. What kind of filament did you use to print your Toranado? PETG should be used to print the bearing holder as the heat from the stepper motor will deform the bearing holder over time. A small heat sink and fan combo mounted on the stepper motor will help with the heat issue.
Hope this help
I believe the bearings are ok, at least the dimensions are identical. I found them on amazon searching for the 625zz.
The PETG is probably the culprit. I'm reprinting the idler holder and I may try some part adjustments with my soldering iron to see if I can get it "going". In the meantime I'm ordering PETG to reprint things. I wish that had been put in ALL CAPS at the beginning of the instructions.
I appreciate the help. I did also search the comment list on slipping and found more. I'm wondering if a minor redesign to stiffen the idler extension isn't called for. At the same time the thickness could keep the bearing from falling out.
I made that mistake before. Is the Mk7 drive gear grub screw tighten?
That’s a good thought, but I did check that already. I’m also reassembling on a new base - I’m thinking there could be an alignment problem.
Will this work on the Anycubic i3 Mega ?
A little frustrated. Assembling and found I needed a different bearing for the outboard end of the extruder shaft. Can someone explain since there's space for the other bearing type (I'm good with software and electronics, only modest with mechanicals).
Any idea if I can use a Nema 17?
Nope, too heavy. Nema 14 only.
Anyone selling one fully built?
It's ok if i print in PLA?
Making up my Xmas wishlist ... and a full hardware set for a side mounted Toranado precision geared extruder is very likely to end in the number 1 position ... hope it will be available soon again ...
The spur gear that you offered in the past.... Did you have them custom machined?? I have been printing a few parts a week and collecting bits and bobs for a while, but having trouble sourcing a 94T gear that seems sensible... The finish line is close!!
There's an acetyl gear here on my parts spreadsheet, near the bottom. If you go that route be sure to get a hub and screws too.
yes to much for shipping 50 usd my god the parts that i need is 14 usd
When will you have the hardware available again?
Looking forward to more hardware/gear kits being available! I will be buying one when they are available. It would be great to see a mounting carriage for the C-Bot/D-Bot.
Wich upgrade do you recomend for a Chimera dual extruder?
If there isn't a next wave it'd be nice to see some CAD files (preferebly .step) to adapt this to other gears.
Yes. I would not mind having access to cad files too. I have some modifications I would like to try. For example, a end of filament detector would be the first one to add. Hopefully the creator will be willing to share. Let cross fingers and be patient.
When is the next wave?
I've been waiting for months to get the hardware. Now I see that I just missed the last wave being sold.
Can anyone tell me when more will be available, or if anyone is interested in selling their kit?
Don't know which motor current and how to set it on Anet A8 with marlin firmware... Anyone knows?
I assume you're talking about the extruder motor current, which is typically adjusted via the stepper drivers on the ramps board. This is mentioned in the Thing Details, towards the bottom of the page. Look for this section title:
How to set the NEMA-14 properly For the popular RAMPS 1.4 setups
Yes, I was talking about the extruder motor current, sorry. I already read this part of the description but first, I don't know which driver the Anet A8 board uses and second there is only one potentiometer on the board which is for adjusting the voltage of the Z-steppers. So I assumed that I have to set the current for the extruder via Marlin firmware, but I have no idea where to do this...
Don't know if you already figured this out, but I figured I'd document this for other people's sake too.
You are incorrect. On the A8, the current is hard coded. You have 3 options.
1, go to RAMPS.
2, replace the resistor on the board for the extruder with the correct value, or engineer a potentiometer in it's place.
3, buy an A4988 w/ carrier (how they normally come) and wire it onto the A8 mainboard. All the pins necessary are broken out as test points.
I have too many projects and am selling my Toranado parts on ebay. search "Toranado Extruder Parts Unused"
For anyone looking for parts, I've found the following:
Edit: My Google spread sheet of all the sources I used with prices. I ordered a lot of the screws, nuts, washers, etc, in quantities of 25 or more because they're useful for other projects :)
Well done. Cheers!!
If you order the 94t gear and hub from servo city, be sure to grab 4 ⅜" 6-32 Truss Head Phillips Machine Screws so you don't have to order them after you realize it doesn't come with them.
comment monter un néma 14 sur carte Anet A8 je ne voie pas comment faire a part racheter une ramp 1.4
Looking for the complete hardware kit on this. Anyone know where I can get one or when they'll release another batch?
search eBay "Toranado Extruder Parts Unused" I am selling my parts as I have no time to complete.
Hi Toranado3d, great work with this extruder. I was wondering if you guys happen to have created an x-carriage mount for the flashforge creator pro (clone of maker bot replicator dual). I love the design and would love to take advantage of this. Thanks! --Hunter
Out of curiosity, what is the benefit of the side mounted vs the end mounted designs? or is it just persona preference?
While I'm no engineer, I picked the side mount because I feel the closer the unit's center of gravity is to the X rails, the better. This should provide more stability at higher speeds, because the mass is not cantilevered out like the end mounted units. Plus . . . . I think the profile of the side mounted design just looks cooler!
Wow this is amazing, a great alternative to Titan Aero. Anyone tried to mount it on a Hypercube Evo?
Hoping to do the same thing in a Hypercube. Need to find a CoreXY carriage to mount it to.
Hi, when will be available the next batch of gear? you choose a very strange gear so no way to found around.....
anyone else having feeding issues? i have used the explicitly specified drive gear from ultibot but my toranado is just not feeding properly...
I just got mine put together today and noticed the same thing during test prints. I've tightened up the two screws on the latch that holds the bearing holder a bit at a time, until I minimized the slipping. Still working on it.
Did you get hard springs or soft with your kit? Mine are like those from a ball point pen and may be too soft to hold proper pressure.
EDIT - It's probably the idler holder and bearing holder causing the problems for me; as noted in printing details, I should print out the bearing holder with PETG. I also only used 20% infill for the idler holder, which should be fine in PLA if I use 100% infill. These two items have enough "give" so-as to not apply enough pressure on the idler bearing, thus allowing the filament to slip and skip.
Trying to find an x-carriage for the side mount version. I have a p3steel. Am i missing it somewhere?
Only difference in front and side mounts for the carriage is that the side-mount version mounts higher on the carriage. If you use one that is designed for front-mount you will be disappointed. I personally use one of the variants of this:
Make sure you get one with correct hole spacing, rod spacing, and provides extruder clearance.
BTW- for side-mount I do not recommend the first one listed on the main page. You will not be able to mount the side-mount version correctly because of how high it sits compared to the OG version. The only option with that one is to flip it 180... but then the Toranado is listing to starboard because it is mounted soooo low on the carriage. GL !!!
You say you used one of the variants . . . which one worked for you? I've got the side mount version and would like to try this design out.
For various reasons, in the middle of a MAJOR upgrade to the printer atm being one, I don't remember exactly which file I used. TPGE uses 23mm spacing but I stupidly printed a variant that used NEMA 17 hole spacing... so I had to "modify" the carriage I printed... with a drill. You might try one of the last 2 on the list or load it up and change the design to suit your needs. Primarily, though, extruder clearance and rod spacing are your concerns.... a drill can fix everything else. 8P
Good Luck, bud.
Finally putting my kit together, and realized you didn't send me the springs... any recommendations on how strong the springs should be?... sadly I seem to have wayyy to weak springs, or wayyy to strong ones....
i got the f***ing strongest springs the universe has ever seen. couldn't compress them if my live depended on it. so you didn't miss out on those - i had to get them from somewhere else anyways...
progrock - I got the kit and the springs are similar size and strength to what you'd find in a ball point pen, just maybe a little larger diameter. Hope that helps!
Is there any way to be notified when you have more kits?
cdeerinck - it sounded like wouldn't be available again until later this summer. I think you can setup a notification for this seller in ebay, so you'll get a message when they're for sale again.
Augermeister - I cannot for the life of me figure out where in eBay to set up a notification. I did subscribe to the seller, but I don't usually check eBay often. I guess I just keep checking when I remember to.
So no way to make it without you making the kits. Dang that sucks. But gotta respect what you doing
You can make these without the fastener kits if you source all the pieces yourself, but I don't know how to do it without the gear kit.... Some folks have tried printing gears, but not sure how that would work out.
Really sorry to see hardware kits are no longer available; I hope that's only temporary. Will you be fulfilling the ebay orders already placed, or providing refunds?
All of the e-bay orders are being shipped tonight and then in the next couple of days... My plan is to spend the next several weeks getting organized, and offering more kits later this summer.
I am taking the next couple of weeks to work with some young kids at a camp in Ohio, and between that and work my time is limited until August.
Thanks for the update. Sounds like you are spending your time helping others, so gotta respect that! Very happy to hear you'll be helping others on Thingiverse too, by continuing to offer your kits in the future. I sourced my own hardware for the v1 I built and it was a nightmare! Your kits are the only way to go.
Have a great summer!
I love the extruder. Is there any way that you can do hardware kits for spare hotends
My mks gen 1.2 board fried when switching on hotend heater after installing the toranado. Im sure the right connections are made becouse hotend fan and thermistor worked as expected. Plus/minus shouldn't matter on heater right? I can't see any other change made exept maybe swtching heater cables. Luckely i have a ramps board laying around to reinstall but i want to make sure it doesnt happen again
If the heater uses more power than the original one, it is not unusual for a board to fry as it is delivering more power to the heater than it was designed for, thus fails. When replacing heaters you need to know the wattage of the original one and the wattage of the new one. Going to a less powerful one is no problem, to go to a more powerful one can lead to frieing the board.
Thanks for reply, It's the same heater on the same hotend. The only change is I rewired it to the JST connectors on the toranado. Everything went fine at first. Powered up, checked temp readings wich where consistent with bed temperature, the fan on the hotend worked ok. So I thought I couldn't have connected the heater to the wrong jst connector in the toranado (if that makes sense). I then set my extruder temp to 100 degrees C and all fans died for a half a second. Then there was a big cloud of smoke and flames streaking my board =( . That's why I think it had to do with the extruder heater, but I guess it could have been anything with power regulation coming to think of it, as there seems to have been a big power surge when heater activated. Checked the board more thoroughly this morning and it seems to originate from something between the heated bed screw terminal and the power input terminal. What struck me as odd is the cable and screw terminal to the heater seems fine, so there must have been some other component that burned, hard to say as it is all melted and full of sooth.
There shouldn't have been a problem if you use the same heater. Could be just about anything. It sounds like a short on the heater wires if it happened the moment you applied power to it and you lost power to everything else as well. The moment the component to the heater burned out on the board, you got power back for everything else.
Good luck with fixing it.
do i have to use a NEMA-14 Stepper Motor? can i just use the one that came with my anet a8?
You do have to use the Nema 14. It is smaller and the Nema 17 will not fit.
On a plus side, the Nema 14 is only about $15 in the US and the Nema 17 can be a spare for any X, Y or Z motor you may need in the future.
Sadly, due to shipping costs to Canary Islands, I don't think I can afford to buy your gears :(. However I have been checking RC Car spur gears as feasible alternatives and I think they might be up to the task. Whats your opinion on this?
What's your opinion on plastic gears? They are 3 times lighter (15-5gr, is not much really anyway) and they might wear less with time.
I might combine them with a 21T or 17T 48P gear for the motor but they won't give the gear ratio of the original model anyway :( [4.38, 5.41, 6.71 respectively].
On another note, I have a slim nema14 with 3 times less holding torque. Do you think its enough or should I get a bigger motor?
Which stepper is preferred? Thin version Nema 14 or regular thicker Nema 14 stepper?
I used the regular thicker Nema 14. I am pretty sure that the thinner one would leave quite a gap and not look as pleasant.
Awesome thanks for the reply!
I'm absolutely in love with this thing and waiting for the dual extrusion version like a mad man!
I'm hoping you're close to completion.
I have a original e3dv6 hotend right now, but planning on making a multiple hotend parts to quick swap between. Ordered two e3dv6 clones from china. But realised later those where for directdrive and not bowden setups. I don't know how they actually look in the top. Anyone have that, and will it be possible to maybe print a converter and pressfit or similar into the top of the hotend to mount the tube into?
In my experience, the clones you describe work just fine for rigid filament. It's the flexible filaments that need the added constraint. Maybe set your original up for that...
Thanks for reply, sounds good.
Cant seem to get any answers by maker anymore. :(
He replies. It just takes a while. Took 2-3 weeks to get a reply to something I asked.
Where can I get that 94T gear ? Saw one on ebay but the shipping cost to Central Europe is too damn high
Do you happen to have any update on the dual extruder from a few months back?
i have a question if i wanted to use an inductive proximity switch insted of touch switch how can o modify the design ?
Sorry admin, I have personal experience with some of these questions so I thought I'd chime in...
Don't modify anything. Just print correct sided BL touch lower cover with the cradle on the correct side, pick and print your "Bed Leveling Sensor Mount" (in the Details section). I used the 18mm mount and it fits into the BL Touch cradle perfectly. Just remember that you need the "BLtouch-cover" to cap it properly and the right sized screws. All the mods have been completed already.
Does the side mount version of the TPGE work with the prusa i3 x-carriage mount that you uploaded or does it require a different mount?
I am using it now. TPGE will mount to any carriage that has NEMA 17 holes. EDIT That's wrong, TPGE uses 23mm... either way it works.
I recommend using a carriage that has its mounting high if you can afford the length on your screws (top mounted z-motors and short screws over here). The only drawback to this carriage is the 3 screw design. I like it. The uploaded one is very good for LM8UU bearings as it uses clamping compression and the metal wont compress on the rod. IGUS not working great atm, though. I'm moving to this one...https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:704855
EDIT Just installed the new carriage and I had to modify it to 23mm mounting but otherwise it works like a dream.
Hi, Gentlemen, I would like to buy the v2.1 Combo Kit +, but unfortunately its stock is exhausted. And if I buy it separately the two available kits charge me two shipments. Could you sell me the complete kit (The v2.1 Combo Kit +) in a single package for a single shipment? Thank you!
I second this. Any idea when you will be back in stock? This is my next major upgrade planned for my i3 clone. Already started printing the parts. Thank you!
Yes.. people have been ordering the two separate kits and I have been refunding the extra shipping paid - I'm getting caught up this weekend and will refresh the kits based on available stock.
I have all the parts printed for the v2.1 and am upgrading from v1. I ordered the fastener kit on ebay over a week ago and it still hasn't shipped. Any idea when you might be able to send it?
Any chance of a 3mm version?
I didn't bother with the fan cover - on that fan the blades are pretty short, not sure a cover would offer any benefit with that small a gap between motor and frame
Yeah, best I can tell, its just an oversight. It looks like there didn't used to be a fan cover, and that's kind of a new feature. So I think the screw lengths are just wrong / for without a fan cover. They literally reach to the back of the fan with the cover on, so another 1/8" would give you 1/8" bite into the plastic.
It is an oversight - I am going to modify the grille soon.
I'm building the sidemount version and I'm up to putting the 40x40x15mm fan on, and the fan bolts on fine without the fan cover. With the fan cover the screws are just too short... I've measured the thickness of the fan cover, the thickness of the fan, and length of screws, and it seems as though the screws should have been 1/8" longer. Did anyone else run into this?
hello every one thank you to make this very nice extruder !!! can use it for flexible filament ? thank you
Yes I print flexible with it. I just lengthened the ptfe tube from the hot end to go as close as i could make it to mk7 gear and it works fine.
GREAT I WILL PRINT TIS AWESOME EXTRUDER !!! THANK YOU
Hi awsome team!
Alright, I am going too try to break my problem down here. I have heat issues and i got the 1.0version.
Exactly what do i need too buy for a Version 2.1? Seems unnecessary for me to get yet another postage cost from USA.
Question 2. Is there any way of getting a version without the JST connection and like ONLY get better cooling couse thats the only issue i got on this beuty!
The kits from 1.0 to 2.1 have changed significantly.... please private message me your info, I will arrange to get you an updated fastener kit (your 1.0 gear will still work fine).
Awsome,I have sent a message! :)
I am just completing my build. Can anyone give me an idea of how the filament is supposed to go from the drive wheel to the end of the tube that feeds the V6. I extended the Bowden tube all the way up to the drive gear (opposite of the incoming feed tube). The tube just flops around (ok it's stiff but you get the idea) with no support. I could cut it near the top of the V6, but then there is no support for flexible filament from the drive gear to the top of the V6. Also, then how do you change the filament without taking things apart. Maybe I'm missing something in the assembly. Any help would be appreciated.
make the PTFE tube as high as possible and try to get it to make the bit between the MK7 great and the bearing. Doesn't make a lot of difference when printing stiff materials like ABS and PLA but helps a lot when printing flexible.
I made my cutom 2.1-canncover-hotend with additional, tappered filament guide (inspired with E3D titan extruder guide). Unfortunatelly it was not properly designed so idler didn't put enough pressure on filament. Now it's OK after some knife cuts ;D. When it will be redesigned and ready to publish, I'll upload and share it with you.
I cut mine at an angle that compliments the shape of the gear (about 45 degrees) as close to the gear as I can without it rubbing. This can also be done from the top feed tube as well.
This extruder is over $100, not even including the e3dv6, if you got a genuine one. One simple question, is it "worth it"? Is it that much nicer/better than a bowden setup? I'm seriously contemplating making this, and wanting to justify the cost.
I have been using this extruder from the word go... (actually a little before go) and I have to say in my opinion it is the most accurate, trouble free extruder I have ever had the pleasure of working with. I find it to be extremely reliable and easy to maintain. I cannot compare it to a bowden setup, as I have never used one but then again I haven't had a reason too. :) Yeah it costs more than a conventional setup but I think in terms of the results it produces it is well worth it.
this is an amazing piece of machinery it should work on the prusa clones? ie anet a8, tronxy p102 or 105 or what ever the number is lol ( almost identical to the a8) just some frame differences! last but not least on the rasecube r2, also identical to the a8 except frame lol
I just got a message that A8 has 46mm rod spacing on the mounting carriage and a diffrent mounting pattern. I'll try to make a x-carriage for it, but man would it be nice if someone in the community could take it on.
I've got it done Wes - It's up and running on my Anet right now. Where should I send the file?
Go ahead and post it as a THING, and I will link to it.
What belt holder did you use with this mount? I can't seem to see one.
Use the remaining parts from this...https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1302584
hey, did you use the motor from the A8 on this?
The A8 motor is nema 17. This calls for a nema 14 motor. Also, the stock settings for the extruder are 750ma, and the nema 14 requires 500ma. You can replace the SMT resistor on the original board with a potentiometer (10k) if you're feeling adventurous to adjust the output.
I also have a configuration.h file with the proper offsets for the ANET A8 to support auto bed leveling. I'll get you guys a link later this evening.
i would like a copy.
I've got mine together, but the JST connections seem to be a real problem. First the hot end bracket clips for JST plugs keep breaking. I've made like 4 of these parts and it has happened in every one. (I even did one with 100% infill). Without those stabilizers, I can't get the JST plugs to mate successfully. Everything is printed in PLA. Part of the reason I'm doing this new setup is to get a hotend installed that will stay hot enough for ABS and other materials. I'm getting close to just hard wiring it together and then seeing if I can get an ABS print. Any other ideas?
Which part is breaking exactly? I have not had issues w my JST connectors at all, but I need to understand what you mean. I'll send you a msg and have you e-mail me some photos.
Thanks for the help and ideas you sent via email. I've got it working and seem to have discovered the culprit. One of the 3 JST connectors in the parts set was a little out-of-spec in the width at the rear of this connector. This made an extremely tight fit which was what was popping the fragile "teeth" that hold the connectors in place in the right position. On my reprinted piece I still "popped" one of the teeth, but got two two connectors installed with one tooth in place. I was then able to wedge a little piece into the space of the missing tooth to hold it upright. (As it turns out, one of the little pieces of the support you cut out of the base was perfect for this). Rather than try to old it together while tightening those ***** tiny tapping screws, I glued the whole thing together with a hot glue gun and everything is fine.
What options are there for mounting to a Geeetech i3 Pro B?
Anyone want to buy my tornado extruder? Printed it out a few weeks ago and assembled it with everything, even the hotend and stepper. PM me if your in the USA and want it.
have you sold this item yet?
I am done building the Toranado V2.1, but sadly I am having some mayjor problems with calculating the correct DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT.
My hardware: Ramps 1.4 with A4988 clones (1/16), a Nema 14 with 200 steps per rotation and the gear set you guys are selling on ebay, along with a MK7 extruder gear (effective diameter 10.3mm).
So my formular looks like this: (200x16)x((94/19)/(10,3x3.14)) = 489,5
But I decided to measure if the extruder really took in as much filament as it should, by putting a mark on to the filament 150mm above the spot where it vanishes in to the toranado and using my external controlls to let the extruder extrude 100mm of filament.
But measuring up to the mark I have made has shown, that the extruder was only sending 89,8mm in to the nozzle instead of 100mm.
I have checked if the ballbearing was putting enough preasure against the string. It was.
I have checked if the nozzle was clean. It was.
I have had the nozzle at 200°C, so there was no chance that the nozzle was too cold and 'keept back' some of the filament.
So after a while I was thinking "So when I ask my printer to extrude 100mm of filament and it only extrudes 89,8mm, than it did only 89,8% of the job. Meaning, that the value 489 is only 89,8% as well. Therefore, 100% is equal to 545 steps per unit."
And what can I say, 545 did the trick and only off by a hair.
So that brings up the question: Where did I mess up in the first place?
You may have a lot of trouble with that MK7 effective dia being different than the drive gear I spec'd. Most everyon who has tried that has issues with getting enough spring force on the filament because the bearing won't align properly to it.
The pressure the springloaded ball bearing is putting on to the filament is good enough to make it hard to pull out the filament by hand if I want to. So that is definitly not the issue.
I spent about 2 to 3 hours the other day, extruding 100mm of filment in two steps of 50mm (to compensate for possible pullup difficulties), meassuring how much filament has exactly been extruded and letting the RepRap calculator for the steps_per_unit do the math. I did so until I reached a 99.6% of accuracy. 100% is simply not possible with the limitations of my meassuring tools and the filament I have got.
But the result is a steps_per_unit value of 539.0634 and that is way off of what the formular of yours gave out. So in the end I guess there is just no short cut or easy math. You still have to do the calibration by hand.
And yes, I did tripple check if I have put the right number of teeth, the correct diameter of my MK7 and the right steps per revolution of the Nema 14 in to the formular. ^^
Print in pla of abs?
I printed mine in PLA. The bearing holder I am going to print in PETG.
I print mine in ABS but if you purchase the parts they are printed in PLA, so I think it is what ever you want. But there is one part which does specify petg
Hi, i finally use my toranado..... great extruder but the cooling system is not enough while printing tower.. any chance to fix it with a better fan duct?
Wes, question about the gasket. Does the gasket help lessen print artifacts cased by vibration? That is did you play around and notice any significant different in print quality with the gasket on the motor as compared to no gasket. (Realize you did this for thermal properties.)
I am assembling my extruder using the bearings and fasteners kit that I ordered off of EBay. When I get to the step to mount the stepper in the assembly instructions, it shows using 6 PTFE washers and 6 Blind Rivet washers in a sandwich configuration to provide thermal isolation from the motor for the plastic. Unfortunately, the kit only provides 3 of each. Have you found the other three are unnecessary and the instructions need to be updated or are the kits incomplete in this regard?
Yes, I need to update the build instructions for the rear-mount. Refer to the build instructions for the side mount - that would be current. Yes, the gasket replaces those other PTFE sandwich parts. I am sorry about the confusion!
I think the new kit comes with a gasket for the steppermotor. Also can get extras at local parts store
Yes, I found it. That would mean gasket on the stepper side and the PTFE/Blind rivet washer sandwich on the other side. Thank you for the clarification.
Can you use a 40x40x20mm fan in place of the 4015? it will make sourcing 24 volt parts a little simpler
It won't fit on the rear-mount on a standard x-carriage mount. It may work on the side mount, I am not sure.
I found that i only needed to print 2.1-FM-lowercover.stl, 2.1-FM-rearmount1.stl , 2.1-FM-40mmfancover.stl and 2.1-FM-rearmount2.stl for the side mount version when compared to my regular version of the Toranado.
Ok, the removable hotend assembly does not need to be reprinted for the flush mount version. Are there any other parts that do not need to be reprinted?
The 94T aluminum gear cover, M5 washer and entire hotend sub-assembly are identical.
Side-Mount vs. Left-Hand-Mount...
It seems to me, the LH-Mount is less wide but higher than the S-Mount.
Can anybody provide me with the dimensions of both versions (Both with BLTouch-Option).
I am unsure which one fits better to my setup...
I will do that soon. The width on the back of the side-mount is for housing the m3 nuts that hold it to the x-carriage. With the side-mount, the nozzle is MUCH closer to the rails, and I designed it to work with i3 setups where you cannot adjust the y-bed (like Orballo's P3 Steel.
This looks really good. Are you going to release the CAD models for 2.1. It makes it a lot easier to create mounts for this.
Also the mount that you have depicted on in the picture of the side mount version. Are you going to release that along with the CAD files and the STL's so we can use this? The main reason for the cad files is to get the x axis mesurements so I know how much additional length on both sides my X Axis is going to be.
I am going to be rebuilding my printer and would like to know how much additional length I am going to need to allow the X Axis to reach from side to side of my bed.
Yes, I need to release the latest package models for those who want to create their own mounts... will try to get to this to help the community.
Thanks that would be great. Also the mount that you have used in the renderings of the side mount.
Also I have printed all of the original 2.1 version. Could you also list what STL are different between the 5 versions or the very least between the LH and the FM versions.
Many thanks for this new version, you’re the boss !
I take it the kits haven't been released yet? Is there a realistic time when we can expect these?
Sorry for the delay, they are up
When are the other kits coming? It says 2/20, but that was a couple weeks ago.
What is total weight of fully constructed extruder?
I have now http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1323225 2-in-1 UltraCompact HICtop Bowden Mount
and my noise vs the original setup(i got prusa i3 copy, hictop 3dp12) where extruder motor sits on X-carriage too has gone down a lot.
Also I noticed that my printer does not shake so lot since there is not lot weight on X-axis to shake it.
Can someone give me pros and cons for this item?
Keeping in mind that I have now that carriage mentioned above with E3D V6 hotend and bowden extruder.
How much "accurate" this is vs my setup atm?
Im just very curious
so the gear kit what is on ebay, must be bought to build this? you cannot print all parts?
anyone who has links to gears, please post here. atm I cannot afford to buy the metal ones
You can print them some people have links but it's worth it to buy gears.
thing is that if I order from USA and I live in Finland, your pricing is it too high for me plus it goes over 22euros so I have to pay taxes and customs too.
Its near 50dollars for me to order. That is the problem.
Unless you want a retailer for europe, then I might be interested. I have a tiny company. I mainly work on other company and do some lil things throught my company, like retailing, programming etc.
Got it all up and running on robo3d the nema runs really hot to hot to touch but not enough to melt pla is this normal?
yup, it will get hot, but make sure you set the current level on your driver (ref instructions), this is VERY important .. these NEMA 14 motors use much less current than a NEMA 17 ... but the smaller NEMA 14 must be run harder to produce high torque, that is the trade-off, small size, more heat. Doesn't hurt to recheck screw tightness after running a few hours (all screws near motor) ... and re tighten ... then they should not get much looser unless there is an overheating issue.
Has anyone have ever had a problem where the motor like jumps back. it isnt retraction because it isnt as smooth and sometimes does it in the middle of a layer. It is weird to me. Is my motor broke or is it something else?
And I mean the motor itself jumps back. I dont think it is slipping because the pinion gear on the motor and shaft jump back.
I don't have the Toranado yet but I have seen this behavior before. In my case, I was pushing the motor too hard and trying to extrude too fast.
im still waiting for the combo kit
Me too! I find myself compulsively refreshing the eBay page so I can buy!
I'm sorry for the delay.
I was sent out of state for a brief trip with my employer... I will have the full kits up next week.... sorry about the delay!
Hi, any time frame for the combo kits to be posted on ebay? THANKS! :D
Any updates on the combo kit availability?
Just curious about status on this as well. Is there a chance they will be ready to ship by this weekend or should I start to order hardware individually? I have my stepper, hot end, and printed parts ready and waiting! Many thanks and respects for your design work and contribution to the community.
Another question. I am only have a 1/16th step controller so I want to make sure my step per mm are right. It is 451 steps per mm right?
That sounds pretty close, but a calibration of the extruder will put you spot on. You know, tell it to extrude 100mm and see how much it actually extrudes. Work from there with it.
I went through the same thing... Better solution is swapping out the stepper controller for a 1/32 setup... It might be as simple as configuring pins if you already have DRV8825 drivers. If not, it's pretty much plus and play. My experience is that the tornado runs much better with a DRV8825 at 1/32. Plug it in and check your voltage per instructions and you will be fine. see link to part below.
Cant use an 1/32 step because I have a Original Prusa Mk2 which uses a Rambo Mini. But thanks for the response.
I was thinking are you possibly planning to make a bowden setup with the exchangeable hotends. I am building a XY 3D printing and I would like it in bowden but I love the exchanges hotends and there aren't really any like that for bowden.
I think Wes is working on that as a back burner project - a bowden Toranado hotend mount/carriage and conversion adapter to plug in the extruder to bowdenize it .. I know he has been busy with "real work" activities lately .. maybe he can respond soon.
any chance the import issues with the cad files will be fixed anytime soon?
Thank you for designing this beautiful extruder. It prints flexible filament without any problems. Good job!
I have the Original Prusa Mk2 with Rambo Mini board. I am not sure anyone knows anything about it but I want to see if I am understanding what I found right.
This is from the Rambo firmware website.
The current for the stepper motors is set by firmware controlling the 8-bit digital potentiometer. For the end user this is seamless. The firmware sets the current at every boot and The following formula from the Allegro datasheet describes how to set the reference voltage: ITripMAX = VREF/(8 X RS). RS, the value of the sense resistor on RAMBo is equal to 0.1Ω. ITripMAX is the current the stepper motors are rated for. Ideally you should start with 70%-90% of maximum. You can verify the voltage for each driver by plugging the reference voltage (VREF) measured at the X_REF test point (Y_REF,etc for the other drivers) in the following formula:
VRef = ITripMAX * 0.8
My VRef form my exturder is 408mV. So if I understand this right it is 408mA / 0.8 = 510mA.
It says it should be like 500mA for the NEMA-14, so would 510mA be alright or should I change the current of it to from 510mA to the 500mA or lower?
Can we hope a belt version for the main gear ? Like this option on L3K http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1127022
Less noise, greater accuracy :)
I use the toranado, but with petg gears. And it is not noisy at all. At normal speeds there is no howling from the gears.
I am trying to configure Marlin for this extruder. Your calculation page assumes 1/32 stepping. Is that optimal? I have the V1 toranado, clone 4988 drivers. Can you tell me what the Marlin settings should be, and what the stepping setting should be for the extruder driver?
4988 only do 1/16 so take your calculation for 1/32 and half it ;)
Any update on the kit availability?
is there a version for the nema 17 ?
I have a Toranado v2.1 already built for sale. It includes: Fan 30mm, Nema 14 motor, Ultibots MK7, Toranado 2.0 gears, shafts, fasteners, bearings and collar, LM8LUU linear bearings and ABS (black) Toranado extruder parts and X axis carriage. All that is missing are the E3DV6 hot end, the BL-Touch probe and the 40mm fan. Make me a serious offer.
We are building a D-Bot spec printer sponsored by OpenBuilds @ MRRF on 3/25, 3/26. We would like to use your Toranado design for the extruder. This could get you additional advertisement as we will be streaming this as we build it on site at the fair. We don't have a problem paying for the mechanical component set, we can print the rest based on your STL files on thingiverse. Please contact us if you would like anymore information and please let us know when components may be available. We look forward to hearing from you!
WIll this mount to vslot? Looking at the D-Bot specifically.
I tried to design the Main Gear as STL. You can download it here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2061670
Haven't printed util now. I'll try it next few days.
Just got the parts in the mail and got everything built - finishing up an X-Carriage and will post up some pics. Instructions were very clear and helpful and all things went together extremely well! Great build, thanks!
That is good that you will have parts back up soon cant wait !
Hi looks very good. It would please be adjusted to to 8mm diameter rails with 50mm center spacing?
Thank you very much.
anyone have a workaround for this 48p 94t aluminum gear
Has anyone set this up with a Smoothie Board? Looking at how to set up the config file.
I would imagine it is not too terribly different than marlin. I just got one myself (a smoothie) I will update you on my progress... But if anyone has set one up, I would love to hear about it.
Hey Damrin, yeah not too sure if I am doing this right... I am getting major chatter...
here is my current config settings;
delta_current 0.2 # First extruder stepper motor current
extruder.hotend.enable true # Whether to activate the extruder module at all.
extruder.hotend.steps_per_mm 1067 # Steps per mm for extruder stepper (DEFAUT 140)
extruder.hotend.default_feed_rate 600 # Default rate ( mm/minute ) for moves where only the extruder moves
extruder.hotend.acceleration 500 # Acceleration for the stepper motor, as of 0.6, arbitrary ratio
extruder.hotend.max_speed 60 # mm/s
extruder.hotend.step_pin 2.3 # Pin for extruder step signal
extruder.hotend.dir_pin 0.22 # Pin for extruder dir signal
extruder.hotend.en_pin 0.21 # Pin for extruder enable signal
If you are unable to find a supplier for your gear, it may be nice if you uploaded the gear .obj/.stl/or even just tech drawing so this could be remade on a home lathe / mill.
Just an idea!
That sucks I was going to buy one of youre kits friday so I can build this thing.
same here, wanted to buy the set soon, too. Anyone located in Europe already bought and do not need it?
I have a complete Tornado that I've never used. If you want to take it off of my hands, then PM me. I'd be more than happy to let it go for a good price.
Any advice on the wiring? I count 8 wires needed, but only 6 pins in the connectors.
40MM Fan GND and PWM Power (D9 on Ramps)
30MM Fan GND and +12v Constant
Heater GND and PWM Power (D10 on Ramps)
Thermocoupler T0 GND and Signal
Obviously some GNDs must be shared. My thoughts are to keep the heater GND separate, since it will be carrying the most power. Are there any issues with noise sharing the thermo GND with the fans?
Thank you for the clarification. Now that you mention it, I suppose it is obvious the 40MM fan is not wired in the plugs, as that isn't removed when taking the hotend out.
The 40mm fan/Print fan does not go through that "6 pins" connector.
I have a Original Prusa I3 first generation with the Mini RAMBo 1.3a card inside, will this card work with the Toranado extruder? I do not believe ther will problem with the two fans and the E3Dv6 hotend, but I am not sure if it will work with the NEMA 14 steping motor that drives the MK7 gear. Any suggestions?
anybody do this swap for the anet a8?
check out this make: http://www.thingiverse.com/make:253828
What kind of filament would you use to print this? Also, is the extruder compatible with the Makerfarm Pegasus printer?
hi, i'm ready to print!! :D
Hi, nice project, I'm seriously thinking to make one.
I read about a Chimera version. Are you really thinking about that? It would be great! :D
I am a bit confused by the mixed use of imperial and metric discriptions for the screws used to assemble this thing.
I am working in metric all the time and I don't know a single store here in germany that offers decent prices for imperial screws. So a "#2-32 x 3/8 screw" will be hard to optain.
Also seperated "shopping list" for parts that have to be bought to make this extruder work would be awesome.
AH okay, my bad. Just found a link to your ebay profile in a comment below.
These are standard self tapping sheet metal screws suitable for plastic. Their equivalent expressed in metric can be found everywhere. It is true that the vendor should give the standard measures and not the "inch" as nobody uses that outside of the US and even Americans can't use :) (never saw so many rounded bolt heads than in a US automobile shop). 32 means 32 threads per inch, 3/8 is the length in fraction but guess what diam is #2 !
Here a 2 or 2.2 by 10 self tapping screw is OK
What about drill bites? NO WAY to buy it in europe, i had to buy it from US for 30$ plus ship and taxes for a total of 70€ americans is the time to start taking care about the world. 3/32 is not 2.5mm ..... bad choice anyway.
And why did you buy US drill bits ???? THERE IS ABSOLUTELY NO NEED TO ! US drill bits standards are even worse than fasteners, they come in fractional, number, letters, decimal etc all that dating back from the 19° century and nobody able to use them properly anyway.
For the same cost you can buy metric drill bit in 1/10th increment and you cover ALL your need.
Anyway, drill bits are NOT to drill ACCURATE holes, you use reamer for ex. Here too, ONLY METRIC ! If a design is not in metric, simply ignore it.
Do you think the Ford, GM, Caterpillar, John Deere, IBM, Intel etc... still design in "inch" ? No, they have understood that they can save money, produce better design and often they couldn't compete otherwise. Fact is, the US automobile industry would be bankrupt if they hadn't gone metric.
All US standard are in metric anyway :)
Why? so after buy from US an Alu gear, pay the custom fees and shipping cost and VAT i take a 2mm drill bit and then enlarge the holes like the worst hobbyist ever? no thanks, i think toronado is really a good extruder, that can make the difference on my prints. So i want to do everything in the right way. Anyway the best thing will be take 1 standard and use it in all the world....
In your case a 2.4 mm and even a 2.5mm would have worked.
There is one standard used the world over, it is metric. Most of the machinery and mechanical products sold in the US are in metric at least inside. The metric system is legal in the US and all US standards are in metric.
Too bad you have lost money buying these exotic tools, you could have invest it in usefull thing.
You should have required the vendor to give all specs in metric or simply don't buy it.
Hello and happy new year! Just wanted to stop in and say that I took the liberty of giving your thing a name drop on my amazon review of the E3D nozzle assortment fun pack.
I hope it brings more business!
Would this 2.1 model work with the 2.0 full kit purchased from ebay?
Yes, they are identical kits.
how much would you sell one thats fully assemble complete with x carriage????? i would do it but my wanhoa i3 is a pretty much down and im looking for new extruder and this one looks cool
hi would I be able to replace the extruder on my original pursa i3 with this one thanks
I am not sure which printer model you have.
Is there a way I could get separate STP files from all these parts.
Nice job btw...!!
Would there happen to be an upgrade path from RH v2.01 to v2.1 without printing most of the parts over? Thanks!
what about the contest? :)
Still need to upload all of the submissions, test, and pick a winner. #Busy!
I'd just like confirmation on what voltage and current ratings the connectors in the kit are good for. At 12V it would be about 2.5A for a 30W heater cartridge. Can the connectors/wires in the kit handle that?
With a little Google search I found this. http://www.jst-mfg.com/product/pdf/eng/eRCY.pdf
With #22 AWG wires the connector will safely handle 3 amps.
That doesn't exactly answer the question of which gauge wires are in the kit.
The JST connectors come with 22AWG cut leads. I'm running a 40W cartridge heater, and a 12VDC system - meaning I have thrown 3.33 Amps at these connectors for hundreds of hours. As always, it is up to you with whether or not you want to exceed the 3A rating of the connector, but I have not had an issue yet with any of my hotend sub-assemblies, and I use the same connectors on mine that I sell in my kits.
Video showing heating pattern in heat sensitive PLA up to 260C.
Thank you VERY much for these vids. I would recommend that you upgrade your 40mm bed fan to the one I am now recommending. I'm very happy with how the v2.1 is performing.
I have learned a great deal about the need to properly vent the 30mm cooling fan since the Toranando v1.0 - and the 2.1 is performing as I hoped it would.
Thank you much!
What is the size of screw for the BL-touch?
The screws that come with the BLTouch should work.
M3x10mm or 15mm button cap should do just fine.
can this extruder print flexible filament?
Absolutely. I print with Hatchbox TPU all the time. Just position the PTFE tubing both in the extruder and on the hotend sub-assembly to allow the smallest opening for the idler bearing possible.
hi, i had buy the 42$ kit on ebay but i seen that to buy the motor and the mk7 gear i will spend 90$ for shipping.... any chance to have both from you within the kit?
I didn't see in the instructions which plug is which. Is there a standard arrangement for the fan/heater/temp probe wiring plugs? I mean, I realise it's unlikely I'll be sharing nozzles but was just wondering.
I need to make an interface spec. Look of it in the next couple of weeks.
Any progress on an interface spec? The wiring is not complicated, but I would like to keep it to a spec of possible.
It's been a couple years .. is there an interface specification?
I am using the Prusa i3 Mk2 printer so it has a RAMBO Mini 1.3 board in it. I know it has PWM for the extruder motor. So this can I just change to setting for it instead of getting a ramp board? If so do you know how to change the PWM setting?
Maybe you should refer to this wiki to setup your extruder. http://reprap.org/wiki/MiniRambo#Changing_Motor_Current_.28similar_to_Trimpot.2FDigipot.29
Have fun. ;-)
I am only familiar with an i3 and a RAMPS setup. I am sorry, but I am unsure of how PWM works in your setup.
Thank you for the response.
Would it work right though if I could change the PWM of the board. To it be ok if plug in the motor to it if I set it right? Also I think it board is 1/16th step for the steppers. Is that ok?
I think so.. but I am not 100% sure, being unfamiliar with your hardware.
Would it the Tornado extruder still work fine with a 1/16th step instead of a 1/32nd step like you have in the equations? Because I did the equation with 1/16th step and it is like 431 steps per mm. Will that be bad?
I just had my setup running that way. It works, but I recommend upgrading your stepper driver to a DRV8825 and you will be set to go at 902 for the e-step. It was a big change worth the $8? controller. I was concerned about the motor heat, but it is normal... Scroll down a few comments to check out the comment string...
How do I connect a DRV8825 stepper driver up to the Rambo Mini though? There is no place for it on the board.
Do you have the Toranado 48p 94T Aluminum Main Gear in stock yet and will you be listing it as an individual item to purchase?
This is the last part that I will need once the printed parts and fastener kit is shipped from you.
My printer is currently down, due to a busted extruder and head, so I'm excited to get the Toronado together and running!
Kits and individual gear is posted. New gears arriving Saturday.
Any update on the full kit being available? It stated Nov 28th in the details section. Eager to get going on this :)
Updated. New gears arriving Saturday.
Can I reserve a complete kit? Everything except printed parts
I sent you a message on ebay already (Ron_lambkin@hotmail.com). As soon as you message me back I will send money
HI Everybody! Seeking some guidance, HOT MOTOR...
I just got my i3 rebuild completed and started successfully printing with the Toronado setup. I love the design! My extruder motor is running really hot. Is this normal? Here are a couple factors that might give some background on my setup.
I am running at 1/16 step. That is the finest resolution that my Geetech control board/motor controller will support. It works great. Just cut the e-steps in half (step = 451)
Advice is very welcome!
What kind of driver is it?
Its was a Geeetech A4988 but I swapped out a spare SainSmart DRV8825. SO the 1/32 step issue was resolved. Much smoother at 902 e-steps, but still hot. I am using one of the Stepperonline .04A motor. It was hot so I dialed down the voltage to .21v without a performance issue at 100% speed, but still hot. I was planning on slowly dialing down the voltage until it fails then bump it up a hair until stable.
Correction---> The DRV8825 is a Hobbypower or Witbot
My experience with hundreds and hundreds of hours printing:
Even with your reference voltage set optimally, the NEMA-14s run hot. THis is why I developed the PTFE system with tubing and washers for isolating the motor heat from the extruder mount. I have not measured the actual running temp, but I am running mine at the rated voltage, and it is hot enough that I don't want to keep my finger on the motor for more than a second or two.
I know you are concerned about running your motor hot, but so long as you run it at the rated voltage - I can tell you with confidence that this is precisely how the Toranado was designed to run, and I am sure yours will run as good as mine, hot motor and all.
Thanks for the thorough reassurance! I printed all my parts in ABS so that helps too. I'll run updated parts onceI get thereat of my rebuild settled and dialed in.
Thanks for all your hard work!
@Toranado3D - disregard my last comment - the shortened length of the extruder is from V5 to V6, so all good.
I am just getting around to assembling my V1 extruder. Looking at the E3D V6 extruders from MatterHackers, I see that they have shortened the overall length of the extruder. So I'm guessing this won't work - do I need to look for an older version?
Just letting you know that the build instructions show how to use your v1 gearset in a v2.1 toranado if you ever want to get current.
Any news about the availability of the ALL KIT on ebay ? The date grows every week ? I have all the printed part allready and need the rest.
Yes, I received word from my gear supplier yesterday that I can expect them at the end of the week. There is a holiday in the USA on Thursday, so this may delay shipping them to me slightly, but as soon as I have the gears in hand the kits will go up.
what about shipping cost to italy?
All of the kit links are now active.
Pardon me if this is already asked and answered somewhere (lots of discussion to dig through) but can anyone give me the total height of the fully assembled Toranado from the tip of the nozzle to the top of the very housing? Likewise, the distance in the y-axis between the rear-most portion of the mounting and the center of the nozzle.
I'm debating whether or not to get one of these, but don't want to lose too much print volume.
This should answer your question.https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1246951#comment-934901
Any tips on tuning the idler tension? My previous extruder had a set non adjustable tension, so really new to tuning that part. Any link to guides of how to check it would be great. Thinking it's my issue with under extrusion when any resistance, even the slightest, is put on the filament being pulled in.
This should answer your question.http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1246951#comment-965458
HI Wes, I've been using the new 40mm fan duct and the new fan (Delta AFB0412SH Fan 12V). It really has more air flow! But, even after a new pid tune, it's difficult to maintain the temperature due to the airflow.
Have you ever thought about designing a duct that goes to both sides of the e3d?
Hmm... I am using the new E3d "Socks" on my heater blocks. Are you using those?
The airflow of these Delta fans in the new 40mm fan duct is directed as best as I could at the tip of the nozzle.
What do you mean when you say you can't maintain temp? Your heater block?
The temp of the heater block is taken at the thermistor in the block itself which is shielded form any 40mm fan airflow.
If I have this dialed in properly, you should only see significant airflow at or under the very tip of the nozzle... let me know what you are seeing.
I will check if the thermistor is well mounted and isolated.
By the way, how is the chimera´s toranado design going?
Any chance you might incorporate this concept into a new version of your design?: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1643906
This allows for a solenoid to switch pressure between two separate sides of the extruder hobled bolt in order to to allow for two separate filaments to be fed from either side through a single hotend. Marlin incorporates this and I believe that Repetier firmware does as well.
Addition of this feature would REALLY kick your design into the stratosphere! Lack of dual extrusion support has been one of the reasons that I have not gone with your design yet. That, and ALSO that I see advantages (and disadvantages) in the Bowden setup, which I use. A hot-swappable Bowden option would be nice as well.
Lastly, How do you compensate for the PID tuning of different hot-ends? Different thermistors and heater cartridges can give vastly different results. Are you aware of anything available for Marlin that will allow the possibility of AUTOMATIC Encoderized head selection? Or at LEAST manual (head "A", "B" or "C", for example) selection direct from the LCD screen UI?
I PID autotuned my hotend with my 0.4mm assembly. I have a 0.8mm and a 0.6mm assembly that use the same thermistors (the newer e3D thermistor cartridges).
I haven't needed to autotune with the diff assys... they seem to be pretty much the same and function just fine.
Yes, I have seen this extruder. I'm always looking for new features to add to the Toranado that make sense...
I have several projects already in the works. A dual-chimera, a bowden that uses these same hotend assys, etc.
I do think it would be nice to proliferate these hotend sub-assys for use in different extruders the community.
I keep a list of PID values for each hotend I use, and I switch between them using M301 in the terminal. My printer is run by Octoprint so it's very easy for me to do. I'm not sure if this can be accomplished with the LCD.
Thanks jakep_82 for the info about the heat related issues. I wished I had known about this before I purchased the plastic kit back in October. If Big Cooter is running a PET-G rig, he must has known about this for some time, but surprisingly enough, he did not mention it here.
I don't think this problem was obvious or easy to identify. I probably had 80-100 hours of print time on mine before I noticed an issue, and it took me quite a while longer before I was finally able to diagnose what was wrong. My extruder is now back to 100% functional with just a new PETG bearing holder. I'm also replacing my base with a PETG part because mine has sagged slightly, but it still works perfect with the original PLA part.
If I had been using a cooling fan on the stepper motor the whole time I probably never would have had any problems. The mount for the fan helps shield the bearing holder, and my motor runs noticeably cooler with the fan on (but still somewhat hot).
I'm still testing mine... but simply updating to PET-G on the bearing holder is perfectly enough. It is a tiny part, and every other part on my Toranado is 100% PLA with not a single issue.
You can build your Toranado, use it to print a PET-G bearing holder, and then spend about 2 minutes upgrading it. Or, if that won;t work for you for some reason and you are greatly concerned, I will gladly ship you a PET-G bearing holder. Just lemme know.
Again, all you will need is the one part printed - it is the only part on my rig that is PET-G.
I'm sorry you are not impressed - I have tried to stay current with the comments here, and to offer updates to the community as we go along.
I thought I would post my experiences here so others can avoid my mistakes. I bought the full kit with the printed PLA parts. The extruder worked great at first, but after a while I began to have issues with the filament slipping which led to some failed prints. Eventually I took the extruder off my printer and discovered that the heat from the stepper motor had caused the bearing holder to soften and warp substantially. This resulted in a ton of play in the end of the shaft, and I was no longer able to get good pressure between the idler bearing and the drive gear. After further inspection I found that the entire base piece was also starting to warp due to the heat from the little NEMA 14.
I've now reduced my stepper voltage slightly and added a cooling fan, but even with these changes it runs very warm. I was able to shim the bearing holder well enough to print a replacement piece in PETG, and I'm now in the process of replacing all of the other PLA pieces with PETG in the hopes that it will hold up better over time.
I also think adding a fan to the stepper motor is a necessity if you want to run it close to the rated 0.5A.
Thank you for your input.
I have noticed two things in my prolonged use of the Toranado:
1) The idler itself tends to warp under the load over time, decreasing the distance between the ider and the housing. If the idler touches the extruder housing, you will not have proper force on the drive gear. I now print my idlers at 85% infill. I might as well print them at 100%. Any time I notice the space between the idler and housing decreasing, I just print a new idler.
2) The heat from the NEMA-14 motor is affecting the bearing holders. I also upgraded to a PET-G bearing holder about a month ago, as well as slightly under-running my NEMA-14. I had the same issue with PLA bearing holders.
Going forward, I am going to have to print the entire Toranado plastic Kits out of PET-G. Since doing these two things, I have printed for hundreds of hours without a failed print (since August) - not a single failure, which is very good.
I am confident that you will solve this issue rather easily by doing what you are suggesting. But it is soooo important to control the motor heat. I do not cool the motor, and have never had better prints... but I am thinking PET-G is the way to go in the future.
I know Big Cooter also runs a PET-G rig... and he has had much success with it.
Since I do the plastic kits as print-to-order, I will update the listing to PET-G going forward, thank you for bringing this to light.
Thanks for the quick response and info. The new bearing holders I made (I made an extra just in case) were printed at 100% infill. I'll take your suggestion and also print a replacement idler at 100% infill.
I definitely think PETG is the way to go. It offers better heat resistance than PLA, but doesn't have the warping issues of ABS. The only drawback is I have trouble printing it any faster than about 40-45mm/s.
Yes. However, once you have your Tornado up and running and made with PET-G... you can print anything in PLA at higher speeds.
I have been swapping nozzles out quite a bit lately; switching between 0.4mm, 0.6mm and 0.8mm. Since the assys all have 85% infill on the idlers, I haven't noticed any issue with them warping yet, but wonder if they are doing better because I am swapping them a lot... time will tell.
I REALLY need to create a FAQ and technical document for new adopters.
I meant to say I can only print PETG at around 40-45mm/s. It seems to be slightly more viscous than PLA, and when I try faster print speeds I have some quality issues. Perhaps after I finish replacing a couple more parts on my Toronado I'll experiment and see if I can push those speeds up a bit.
I'm already running PLA at 60mm/s with no issues, and I plan to go faster once I finish adding a few more braces to make my printer frame more rigid.
I'd also like to make it clear that even with these issues I still love this extruder. Print quality was great before the bearing holder warped (and it's great again now that I've replaced it). The ability to quickly swap hotends is also awesome. I have one dedicated to PLA, one for PETG, and another for ABS. The clones are so cheap I'm also thinking about a getting a few more setup with different nozzle sizes.
Anyone getting heavy clicking on retracts? My gears are meshed paper width apart.. Anyway to silence? grease maybe?
If you mean a clanking noise, the big gear "ringing"? That can occur if backlash is excessive, the pinon wacks the back gear on retraction, making it sound off with a "ringing" noise. To reduce backlash, move your motor closer to the big gear. Personally, I do this by feel, idea is to have near zero backlash (slop when reversing), but no binding through a full rotation of the big gear (friction/resistance should feel smooth or constant through a full big gear rotation). Achieving very low backlash is one of the big benefits of using these precision hobbed gears from Toranado 3D .. with 3D printed gears the run-out and irregularities are so large that it is impossible to get near zero backlash without binding of the gears. Make use of those awesome gears, tighten up your clearance, until you hear retraction "clanking noise" go away.
However, if you mean "clicking" as in the stepper motor missing steps? ... then your motor driver needs adjustment (refer to Toranado instructions on how to properly adjust your motor driver ... this is VERY important ... failure to do this will most likely result in a motor missing steps, or a motor running too hot (bad things can happen ... motor burn out, loosening of mounts, distortion of extruder components, etc....).
If you don't know which of the above is going on .. no problem .. you need to adjust both anyway.
I recently printed this project in all abs and I think the gear i purchased is out of round. I have tried adjusting the stepper motor several times but there is no good place to set it. It binds on one side and has slop on the other. Should I be using grease or something between the gear contact surfaces? I have been not using retraction because of the way that it sounds and it has been ruining some of my more difficult prints. I love this upgrade but I am having a difficult time honing in this one adjustment. Please help if you can.
It is highly highly highly unlikely that your gear is out of round. All of the ones we have expected are exceeding the total runout spec. The gear is fine.
You are probably having an issue with alignment between the bearings (your shaft is tilted). Check the fit on your bearing holder bearing to see if it is still snug in the holder and make sure both bearings are inserted into the plastic true.
wow thanks for the fast response. I will look into taking it apart and making sure the bearing axis' are co-linear. What about using some high film strength lubricant? i just don't want to destroy my gear by running it. thanks again for your help.
has anyone created a spacer for the air gap if you don't have a bowden version of the hotends?
I am so glad that E3D are making a big change to the BigBox, now it will have the X-axis rods running vertically like the Prusa instead of horizontally. Means I can adapt this to the BigBox soon. They are setting up a dual x-carriage with independent extruders, I just need to see if this will also work in such a configuration.
I am sure it can be configured for the horizontal rods. :)
Yeah, but this way I could get it up and running faster. How wide are these?
Is the new 40mm fan duct up yet? The one under Files says last updated June 29.
It is posted
Thanks. I now have it in my hands. Now I just need to figure out how to install it without removing the extruder from the printer completely, it's such a pain to mount.
Got it figured out. Remove the big gear and three screws, and the bottom piece falls out. Quick swap, and it's already up and printing again.
A bonus of this new fan duct, is I think there's enough room now on the bottom to place a self-adhesive LED strip. The side-shining ones that you can find in the automotive section in WalMart.
Successfully added lights to the new 40mm fan duct. Pics are in a Make.
No - I am so sorry - will try to get it posted tonight... :)
Hey, hello, I made a plastic gears for your extruder!http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1828934
Expect your plastic printed pinion gear to loosen and slip on motor shaft ... motor heat & plastic stress relaxation are my prior experiences. This is one of the big challenges with reduced size extruders (motors smaller than NEMA 17) .. size reduction comes from smaller motor + smaller diameter pinion gear. That smaller pinion gear has thin walls / features ... in plastic, the shaft set screw can't be torqued to a high level, and then the plastic relaxes quickly due to high stress in thin walls .. then add the heat from pushing a smaller motor with current required for job. Personally, I did build some titanium sleeved 3D printed pinion gears, and they worked Great! ... but fabbing them was a lot of work and material cost, made the pinions that Wes (Toranado 3D) is selling seem cheap. Also, 3D printed plastic gear runout and non-uniformity forces a setup with a lot of loose backlash through half the big gear rotation ... Wes' gears run almost dead perfect (measured runout myself), they can be setup tight, no sloppy backlash, and no binding. I admit, it's fun to 3D print gears and see them work, ... but for an extruder where I want the best print quality and can't afford failed multiple hour print jobs, affordable hobbed machined metal gears are a must have ... I'm done messing with printed extruder gears.
A simple piece to hold some leds for the Toranado.
Is the BL Touch wiring fished through the JST connectors as well? In the video of the jack-nut removal process that is on youtube, I only counted 6 pins, which accounts for the heater cartridge, thermistor, and cooling fan on the removable hot-end fixture... And it doesn't look like the BL touch attaches to the hot-end fixture... so where are the wires routed?
The BL Touch wires be routed alongside the NEMA-14 motor wires, behind the extruder and up into the harness. You are correct that the only current provisions for the integrated JST connection system are the wires being used for the quick hotend removal (thermistor, heater cart. and 30mm heatsink fan).
thank you for the clarification. looks like a great thingi.
Is this thing mountable on a Anet A8??
It looks like an pretty standard i3. so I would assume it would work. Measure the mounting pattern and compare it to the available mounts on the Details page.
Digi-Key sells the RCY crimp connectors for the JST male/female quick connectors used in the Toranado. Accepts 28 to 22 AWG.
Pin contact SYM-001T-P0.5, Digi-Key # 455-1909-1-ND
Socket contact SYF-001T-P0.6, Digi-Key # 455-2652-1-ND
I ordered 25 of each for $3.95, plus $3.40 for 1st class USPS delivery.
Have 2 assemblies, got extra connectors to practice with before cutting.
Really hate soldering, and shrink wrap :p
I enjoy soldering and pigtails, really just a matter of preference, just be sure you make good connections. :)
I had a small problem with the 5mm collar. I tried to order the one you recommended from McMaster-Carr but they would not ship the collar overseas. I found one on banggood http://www.banggood.com/8pcs-3-16MM-Drill-Bit-Shaft-Depth-Stop-Collars-Ring-Set-Wood-Drills-p-966196.html which has a 5mm collar but it turned out to have a 15mm OD instead of 13mm.
I altered the decorative spacer/cover in tinkercad but because of how tinkercad works it was basically guesswork centering the cylinder to remove the space required.
Can you please update the materials list to include the required OD of collar. Also if you could add the collar to the v2.0 combo as well make it easier to find the correct collar.
So far my build is coming along great and it is looking amazing. I am just about ready to commit and disassemble my current extruder and put this on.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1758505 is another option. All you need is an m3 grub screw. :)
You beautiful bastard. This is awesome.
Thank you. However, my parents were married at the moment of my conception.
Any one want a completed Toranado? Way too many irons in the fire.
Just needs the E3D V6 hot end. Printed in MakerGeeks high-temp Raptor PLA-- Vivid Blue with Vivid Red accents.
See it here: http://www.thingiverse.com/make:255218
First $80 (more than what I have in parts) offered shipped Priority in the USA.
All new parts--recommended Pololu NEMA 14 motor, gears, shafts, bearings, screws, fans, wires--installed except hot end. Extra MK7 drive gear used as collar. Even throw in a set of ball-end 2.0mm and 2.5mm hex wrenches. -- email@example.com if interested.
80 bucks ??? A Titan extruder goes for 45 pound, ~60 $
Actually, this would be a better point of comparison, since he is selling his fully assembled unit with motor, fans, etc.
You can pick up a good cloned hotend kit for $8-15 dollars on ebay.
Technically, he is violating the non-commercial attribution on this THING (which I watch closely), but it seems like he is just selling the unit he had intended for his personal use this one time. If you can handle the Superman colors, it looks like a good deal.
Thanks. I'm basically selling if for the parts I have in it. Someone could use it as is, or strip the parts and print in their favorite colors. With $8 priority shipping. not making anything on it. The motor was almost $19 shipped. The hardware and gears kit from eBay fro the designer. Big gear drilled.
Seriously, too many spinning plates and bowls in the air.https://youtu.be/Zhoos1oY404?t=2m46s
$75 shipped in the US anyone? -- firstname.lastname@example.org
Any chance of getting a cleaned up step file of 2.0-lowercover-LH-wpads?
Have a home brew bltouch type probe that I'd like to interface in.
Private msg me please.
could you make a price for 10 piece
v2.0 - Gear and Shaft Kit Only
without ebay for avoided costs
Any ideas on the kind of springs to use for the idler? I have everything else on the BOM, springs are all thats left.
Actually, these are one of the most difficult items for me to source. I still get my kit springs from a local hardware store. When I was building the extruder for personal use, I just took the M3 bolt to the hardware store with me and found springs that would do the job.
Do you have a rough overall length and diameter of the wire used on your springs? ID or OD of spring is not all that critical as long as it fits the bolt, but the length and wire diameter determine a lot (force and compressibility)
Can't publish a remix so here's my modified cartridge parts for the Prometheus all metal hot end:http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1774546
Maybe post some pics in the MADE section, along with the E3Dv6.
VERY VERY cool.
Please let me know how it works when you test it, etc. and I will add it to the list of addons.
Had to modify the Extruder Base. Not for the Prometheus, so I can mount it to my X-Carriage by adding a 4th hole 46mm above the two horizontal holes. Plus a hole for a 1/4" tube as a filament guide from the spool. Have V groove idler bearing to use as the tensioner, so don't need the kit's 2mm I.D. PTFE tube.
ExtruderBase-RX.STL file is with the above linked Prometheus stuff.
Waiting excitedly for you to re-list the fastener + gears kits...
it says buy kits ?? you sell them ? what typically comes with the kit and would you ne to willing to sell a fully built one of course sold for more?
Yes, I will be listing them tonight/tomorrow.
Yes, I plan on doing that (fully assembled units)
Where will they be listed ? On the first page ?
I just don't want to miss when they come ;)
well if its compatible with a wanhao i3 consider me sold for a fully built one :)
I really like this design it looks amazing. I was wondering if there is a modification file that will slow for this to mount in a robo3d?
wondering the same lol
I actually found one on the deep dark web. One more question is E3d v6 the only hot end that will work for this or will the stock metal hotend on the Robo3d fit?
You have a Robo3D mount that will work with this v2.0 Toranado?
It took awhile to find but this guy did it.http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1380864
Yes, I worked with Jaystar a few months back, he made that for the Toranado v1.0 - it is not compatible w 2.0.
Lol dang I feel like an idiot. I thought I found something sorry to wast your time.
Wes&BigCooter: Have you folk had a chance to play with:
The sock looks like it would complement the removable hot-end of the Toranado --- (don't if the clearance around the block would allow the sock without modification)
Anywho, what do you guys think?
Thanks St. George
Sock kit looks like a great product from E3D, but I believe it only fits the newer V6 blocks which use cartridge thermistors (the heater block is a few millimeters longer)??? The sock should help to keep plastic from sticking to the the brass nozzle, and of course insulates the heater block, which is a MUST for best print quality! Currently, all my pluggable V6 hotends are the older style and are insulated with ceramic felt wrapped with Kapton tape, ugly, but functional.
Does anyone have an STL file of the Toranado fully assembled? It would make my life easier if I didn't have to make the file myself. :-)
There are package models you can download for this...
A simply beautiful piece of engineering design! Always inspires me whenever I look at it.
I'm currently doing a redesign for my own-design CoreXY. The issue is that while the carriage is very compact, robust and simple to put together, its not easy to swap parts! This is definitely helping me with the new design! :)
where are the kits sold?
I'll have them up in the next couple days
Ebay when they're available. Wes puts up links on the Thing Detail page.
I'm looking for a compact extruder for my custom printer that I'm about to build. I came across your design and I think it looks (and for what I've seen preformes) very good. I'll build dual x carriage printer and your extruder would be perfect for this. I have several questions:
I'm building new printer from scratch because I want to eliminate all (or most of the flaws) that I've seen in cheep 3D printers. It's gonna have all the bells and whistles that are on the market and some more. So I think your extruder would be a great asset for my design. I'll post build instructions here and on instructables.com when I'll have my prototype running, because I want everyone to have a chance to build proper 3D printer that has both precision and repeatability. No more problems with first layer not sticking and usual stuff. I like to incoporate your extruder with that design.
I think they're out of kits at the moment, hopefully will be relisted soon on eBay. Seller is Toranado3D.
There.s a 8200 mount here:http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1757141
I'm building a dual X carriage machine myself, with Toranados :)
Like this, only more robust for a CNC option:https://www.bcn3dtechnologies.com/en/catalog/bcn3d-sigma
Suggest you use a 625 V V bearing for the idler, the Mk9 upgrade.http://www.ebay.com/itm/400863307280
Thank you for your reply!
Thank you for mount. It was strange I didn't found it... I looked for K8200 Toranado and nothing. Well there it is :)
I looked for Sigma and it seems to be solid build. I'm building big 3D printer with CNC and laser support. So it will be very robust.
I haven't work out all the details, but when I do I'll post it.
I have some MK8 lying around I'll go with those. But thank you for suggestion.
All I need are those gears for extruder other than that I'll build everything myself. So I'll have to wait, because the seller you've mentioned doesn't exist. I could make gears myself (I work with CNCs) but it seems only fair that we buy something when gentlemans put so much time in this.
Do you have any info on 3mm option of this extruder ?
I haven't been able to locate the 2.0-shaftcollar.stl to use instead of the metal version. Is it in a different set of files than The_Toranado_Precision_Geared_1.75mmExtruder-_v2.0.zip?
I am sorry but I forgot to include the .STL on this page.
It is now uploaded.
It is now in both the LH and RH .zip files as well.
I finished printing the 2.01-bearingholder-LH - i really can't tell the difference to the 2.0 when they are on the table. - Just love the design of the Extruder
Look at the neck area where the tensioner interfaces with it... I added large angles to reinforce it.
The link for the k8200 mount is broken, anyone have a mount?
I will post you again the file
Trojan, if you have the file please send it - looks like Merlin is no longer on Thingiverse. For now, I have to remove the link.
The K8200 support is uploaded
Thank you, linked to your THING. :)
No Worries :-)
Wes & BigCooter,
I'm in the midst of printing two Toronado 2.0 extruders. In doing so, I'll need to measure and making a mounting plate suitable for the TAZ 4/5/6 series of 3D printers. The TAZ 6 integrates an auto-level mechanism that requires the hot end to make contact with four metal discs on the periphery of the build plate.
I'm not up to the task of modifying the beautiful design you've put together, to add another pair of wires to the JST connector on the removable/replaceable hotend.
Would you consider making a variant version that has 4x JST connectors? I need one more pair for the feed/return wires. Having an extra pair of wires could be useful for a number of other leveling probes ( including the already supported BLTouch ). As a corollary question -- is there a better way than to add another connector?
I am currently working on a connection system upgrade... let me finish that, and we can use that as a starting point for considering the possibility of what you are thinking here...
I know you're busy with the side-mount version of the Toranado.
Any progress on the connection system upgrade?
I finished my build of the 2.1, but have an ugly hack-workaround for the probe wire. It basically goes along the outside of the unit, so that I can complete the circuit between the toolhead/platform contact pad/connector.
I have finished both extruders ( Will be posting the make -- it's also a "StormTrooper White/Black" since I used white PETG to print them ). For now, I'm routing the auto-level lead directly along the side... not the most elegant, but it works.
Definitely looking forward to the connection system upgrade. Looks like everything works well at 24V, and the JST connectors are handling the amperage well so far.
Cool. Will the upgrade have higher gauge wires for the heater cartridge or the possibility of using two pairs of smaller wires? I have a fully built Toranado with an E3dv6 that I've been reluctant to install due to the JST pigtails, which are 22 AWG. I'm no EE, but a 12V 40W heater can draw 3.3A. 22 AWG is only rated at 0.92A maximum power transmission (bundled), 7A open air; our wires are somewhat bundled and partially enclosed in an elevated temperature environment, so I'm a little uneasy. Anyone having heating performance issues or melted wires related to this?
My wires have been bundled and covered, hundreds of hours of printing, they do not get warm at all in my open air environment (My i3 rework). .92A for power transmission must have other assumptions built in other than just the fact that it is bundled - to explain the drop from 7A to 0.92...
Anyway, I am running exactly what you mentioned above... 12v 40W heater @ 3.3A. This slightly exceeds the JST terminal rating as well (3A) - I have had zero issues in hundreds and hundreds of hours of printing on my setup, and I have yet to troubleshoot any issues with the JST terminals and 22AWG wire.
Great, thanks! And gorgeous design work!
I used just the JST connectors from a connector kit on my builds. Some black and some red see pics http://www.thingiverse.com/make:241934 . I used the "cut-off" for the run between the connector and the controller. From what I gather, the connector itself is capable. I would have hesitation about the pigtails too. If you go this route, the crimping too is a must!
I soldered all of my splice connections - and then used heatshrink over the soldered splices. Works great.
Sure, works for me.
I'm printing a the time Left-Hand and Right-Hand extruder. I've problem to print the ilder 2.01. The part touch not the heating bed, because the wpad haven't the same level. That make problem by the printing process.
A good modification would be also to fix the axis to the ilder with to screws.
Thank you very mutch for this genial exdruder.
Re-download the files. You will see that when I originally posted them (8-26-2016) there was an error in the file - the error that you are seeing. I fixed this issue on 8-29-2016 and re-uploaded the proper files.
I just printed a couple Toronado parts, both LH and LR for the idler. Here's the output from Simplify3D showing the model from the side. This is sliced at 150 micron, and the wpad is level with the bottom. What slicer / planner are you using?
I use the software Simply3D and have a Reprap prusa i3 3D printer. The model where I use have the index 2.01.
Nozzle 0.3mm, Layer step 0.15mm, 240°C with ABS-X
Look at my picture the first layer of the parts has not the same level as th wpad.
Did you use an other index of the parts
You have the wrong version of the file - re-download it.
Thank's a lot for the advise. It's works know. Do you know, if there some other issue at the old version?
Becouse me printer is working 24h per day to make the parts for the extruder.
Thank you for your help.
Simplify3D 3.1.0 on OSX Sierra, part is 2.01-idler-RH-wpad, settings are nozzle 0.30mm, multiplier 1.00 w/ extrusion width 0.38, Layer step 0.20mm ( this is from the specifications given for this by Wes ), infill 80%, 2 shells, 4 top and 4 bottom layers, rectilinear infill with ABS settings -- layer 1
The file hasn't changed recently, but your layer height of 0.15mm vs 0.20mm may make a difference?
I've tested all parameters, but I get alwas the same result.
Did you have a idea for too fix this problem?
Thank's for your feedback
My only suggestion would be to re-download the file, or change slicer?
Did you test both the LH and RH variants?
Testing out the 2.01 parts this morning. I had to cut my tensioning springs a bit because I was putting so much pressure on the filament that the motor stopped even at max current. There's a nice gap at the top between the tensioner assembly and the frame now so I know I can actually adjust tension at this point. The first print is looking very good, so far. One minor change I made was adding a small tab on the front of the tensioner to make it easier to grip. It almost looks like a Killroy face when you print the part but it works well for me.
It looks like a great job on the modification.
OK, I've used it for a full day and my initial impressions were correct; the 2.01 parts are a big improvement. Two rolls of filament that were unusable before are now feeding nicely. Thanks for this fix.
Thank you. Always ensure you have noticeable room between the idler and extruder base.
Another comment to the 2.0 Assembly Instructions.
It could be great having arrows on the Assembly Instructions indicating the airflow of the fan - to be 100% sure :-)
Thank you for the suggestion.
Almost finished building my Prusa i3. I its gonna be so cool with the Tornado Extruder and BLTouch - right now printing the 2.01 updates.
Using this Nema 14 Bipolar Stepper 12V 0.4A 14Ncm(20oz.in) 14HS10-0404S -
with DRV8825 1/32 stepper
How should the bridge switches be set on the Ramp? all three, like this ?http://makershopbcn.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/drv8825-en-la-ramps.gif
Measured VREF should be 0,2V right ?
Christian Søgaard Nielsen
1) Yes, all 3 should be jumpered.
2) For the Pololu 500mA stepper that I spec'd, you will need your vREF measurement to be between 0.25V and 0.29V - this will work great if you get it there.