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alansrobotlab

InMoov Articulating Neck Joint ReMix

by alansrobotlab Jan 4, 2016
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help me
can these pistons be adapted on this joint?

Alen,

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By default the HS805BB servo is designed for the neck right?
Can i replace them all for the HK15328 or only the two on the back.

Comments deleted.

Can I just say, I love your inmoov! I am very impressed with the way you finish your parts! Is there any way you could share a little "how to" on your finishing technique? Thanks! Keep up the good work

Hi, what is the difference between ArtNeck_PistonSideV2.STL and ArtNeck_PistonFrontV2.ST?

I printed them and managed to mix them up and cannot seem to tell a difference. I will probably just reprint and use a different color for the front one.

Hey Allan,
Where can I get an .stl of those amazing ears?

Hi, nice mod here. I like the additional movement it adds. Are those HS-645MG Servos that you used? A little hard to read the numbers.

Thanks! I suppose that HS645MG would work just as well. I used HobbyKing HK15328D, They're alot cheaper and work just as well.

Thanks for the info. I just ordered the same ones your using. I am still in the process of printing this and gathering parts, I have the head mostly assembled and part of the shoulders. Looking forward to getting this together.

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Hi is there any way that you could provide the artneck servopivit right and left files hopefully in fusion 360 I would like to make an adjustment to the pivot location i cant seem to be able to work with a stl file thank you for your time
oldfarmhand

has anyone had the issue where the base pistons are too tight for the piston shaft? I broke one off inside

Comments deleted.

I'm sorry to hear that. That shouldn't happen, the parts were designed with 200 microns of clearance between the mating surfaces. You'll want to double check your machine calibration and your extrusion multiplier.

When they're printed out to spec, there's actually a bit of play between them.

I'm confused. I've only been 3D printing for 6 months, so I'm still learning, but I can't see how NeckJointUpper prints without support. It has overhanging parts (the control spheres). Does anyone have a time lapse of this part being printed? My printer is a self bult Prusa mk2 clone.

Thanks in advance for any advice or explanation.

Hey Wayne, neckjointupper requires support. I'll review the directions and update them soon.

Alan

having trouble printing the pistons. They get to the part where it starts to widen at the top and then fall over.
Tried rafts and had to resort to printing triangles at 120 degree intervals round the base which I then break off but the tops are printing rough.
This is PLA and I followed your suggestion, any ideas?

You're really going to have to print these with a brim. I printed these with a brim 10mm wide and 0.5mm high.

If you're doing that and it's still getting knocked off, I'd make sure you have enough part cooling. If it's not cooling fast enough the layers get gooey and once the print head starts dragging along the print it's only a matter of time before the print gets knocked off.

If there's no way to get the cooling right, try printing two at once. that will definitely give each layer enough time to cool.

The best upgrade to my Anet A8 was adding a glass top (cut by glass-cutter in town). Prints stick really well, and once it's cooled, slide right off. I DID NOT use ANY brim for ANY of these parts and they printed perfectly!

You're really going to have to print these with a brim. I printed these with a brim 10mm wide and 0.5mm high.

If you're doing that and it's still getting knocked off, I'd make sure you have enough part cooling. If it's not cooling fast enough the layers get gooey and once the print head starts dragging along the print it's only a matter of time before the print gets knocked off.

If there's no way to get the cooling right, try printing two at once. that will definitely give each layer enough time to cool.

Have printed most of the neck parts and was looking at the side servo operation. Was thinking of reversing the motor and potentiometer on one servo and combining the PWM signals so they work together but opposite. I'll try some tests and repost if I get success. I found some MG966R servos on Amazon that are tower pro replicas. they are identical apart from the body is slightly taller and different horns supplied, all metal gears, you get 4 for £12.95. big saving and they seam to work fine.

Doing that would be very tricky, as there's no way to guarantee that each servo will separately position correctly relative to each other. But your welcome to give it a shot and see how it works. So far the only two ways I've seen it work are in a master/slave setup where one servo is gutted and driven from the 1st servo board, or if the second servo is complete gutted and is just there for show.

Reversed a servo and linked up with a y cable. So far so good but haven't loaded it as head not yet attached. I'll update on my progress as it goes.
Managed to print the Pistons in two parts and then fuse weld them with a soldering iron, as good as one piece and impossible to separate. I fuse weld all joints now, better than glueing

Hi
Tried to build such a neck and run into a few problems:
1) the servo holders do not turn in line with the piston axis. This stresses the connection of the servo with the piston. I have created a servo left/right holder with relocated turning point. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1614949
2) with the new LowBackV3 from Gaël the turning of the head gets blocked. I used my Dremel to remove some of NeckJointUpperV3
3) somehow got an older NeckJointUpperV3 printed. Make sure you use the one with the screw holes at the round connectors and which has no collar on the middle (up/down) connector.
Juerg

ArticulatingNeck modified Servo Holders
by juergm

Hey Juerg,

That's very interesting, I'll take a look.

When I modelled the servo holsters, originally I had thought that they would need to have a 2 axis pivot. After playing around with the model for a while, it appeared that once the angle was set there was no need, so the holster is fixed in position. It might be a degree or two off based on , but I haven't seen any additional stress from having a fixed pivot for the holster. In my Inmoov that pivot is locked once it's in position.

When I get a chance I'll take a look at Gael's updated parts and see if I need to push an update.

Thanks!

Are you also willing to share the script producing the moves in the video or has this not been done with the help of MRL?

Hey juergm,

The demo was done using a custom arduino firmware for Teensy 3.1 paired with a custom serial protocol and c# application. There's nothing in there that could be leveraged by our MRL folks.

I'm in the process of migrating the firmware and framework to ROS, and I'll be publishing updated tools there shortly.
https://github.com/alansrobotlab/inmoov_ros

Thanks!

Hi, there is a mention of HK 15328 servo. Is that the one I should buy or are better alternatives known?

Hey juergm,

You're free to use any standard sized servo. I've been having good luck with the HobbyKing digital servos, and they're only $8.00.
I'm not sure what Gael's current recommendations are for standard sized servos, but you could also follow those.

The only thing I would recommend is metal geared servos, as there's a fair amount of force required.

Thanks!

Works a treat ! Very well designed

Hi Alan,
Great work - I'm just trying to print Neck_Upper, but it loads into S3D at a funny (unexpected) angle? Which way up should I print it?

PS All the Pistons have printed really well.

Ok, NeckUpperV3 and NeckLowerV3 are reoriented to their correct printable positions.

Thanks for pointing that out!

Alan

Hey rekabuk,

Sorry about that, I didn't reorient the part when I exported it. I'll re upload it tonight in the correct orientation.
For now, flip it so that it's flat side down.

Thanks!

Alan

No worries, I'm currently trying to remix it to work with monnerby's new head http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:992918. So I need to print it upside down :-)

Modified InMoov head

hello alan
your print is just amazing
could you say us how you do?
what of material you use it?
thank you

Hey abroise,

Thanks!

All my new printing for InMoov is in PLA.
The piston pieces were all printed at 100 micron layers with multiple part cooling fans so that I could print quickly and hot and still get a very strong part.

Everything else in this remix was printed at 250microns layers.

Everything was printed with 6 perimeters, 2mm tops and bottoms, 16% infill. The resulting parts are very strong.

  • 2016-02-28 NeckJointUpper to V3, widened mounting studs, shortened balljoint backplane for a few more degrees of freedom NeckJointLower to V3, thickened balljoint feature, now both slots are same size to match NeckJointUpper Added HK15328 servo horn if you're using that type of servo.

Thanks!. It was alot of fun to work on. I just pushed a minor update, and I think that's going to be it. The design works very well.