MakerBot Print is our newest print-prepration software, which supports native CAD files and STL assemblies,
allows you to interact with all your printers via the Cloud, and many other exciting new features.

Download Now


obo XL 3D

by obor Jan 28, 2016
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Please Login to Comment

Are hardened steel linear rods necessary, or can cheaper stainless steel rods (not linear movement type) be used too?
They might not be as exceptionally straight as the linear rod type, but does it make a difference in a 3D printer?

As this is a critical part for print quality, rods needs to be both stiff and accurate, better choose good quality items

Comments deleted.

Can anyone tell me the difference between "Gantry Z-Axis Top" and "... Bottom", normal and 339mm Variants in the Ultimaker files list?

What are the lengths of GT2 closed-loop (endless) belts used on this machine ?
Two of each ?

It is open loop GT2 belt. They are locked by a screw on the side of each slider;

Comments deleted.

I tried one on a prusa like printer but abandon. I more or less succeed to print very small objects like TinTin rocket, but there is always some leaking of the inactive extruder while printing wich degrades the final result.

Did you try to reverse the feeder when not in use?

Did you consider an automatic wiper after each color change?

Do you have the file for the Chimera "2 in 2 out" print head holder?

I love this design very much, but I have a question how strain the straps on x and y that I can not see it

Hey Obor,
for the slider block have it used Polymer or Steel LM8UU Linear Bearing?

Hey Obor,

I'm using the ultimaker back X-axis for both sides, but the slider is hitting the Z rods. I'm using the revised sliders that you have with the flat side, and the flat side is towards the Z rods. What am I missing?

Also, what e3d hot end are you using? I have both a bowden and direct drive version...the bowden one doesn't fit without removing the fitting, and the direct drive one doesn't seem like it will work because there's no way to keep feed pressure on the filament since there's no tube or fitting on the top of the block.


I found the video on your blog of the print in progress...are you using a bowden heatsink with the non-removable compression fitting?

It is a classic E3D hotend ith bowden. As always, bowden should be as sort as possible.

Any update on a BOM? I'm not super familiar with the parts of a 3d printer but I really wanta build this one and give it a shot.

Hi Obo,
what is the dimension of heat bed have used?


it's 2 * 300x300mm beds, with a power supply for each bed.

Have you a detail of central joint for the heat beds?

HI Obo;

What power sources and what motherboards did you use for this design?


I used pouwer supply meanwell LRS350, 2*24V for Beds, and one 12v for electronics, motors etc... The board is a rumba.

Hi Obo;

I love the design...I am planning on building a huge 3D printer soon. I need the X-Axis to be at least 36 inches long. Would this design support such a size...if so, what is the max Y-and-Z-size?


buenas tarde me gustaria saber si tiene un manual de paso a paso de la construccion de esta impresora puedes subir el link si lo tienes o los archivos. muchas gracias

What type print head you use in this design ?
because i see my e3d v6 didn't fit
upper tube connector does not climb

All it's left to collect . please make photos of all the top corners . thanks in advance !

Any estimate on how much it will cost to build?

Around 700-800€ all included,

Thank you for sharing , I am also going to made one too , now collect all the info and material , in my country is hard to find the t slot , due to no market here , so I have to order from outside country , for the steel rod is ok easy to find , and most of the parts all from out country , but easy to order too , just the t slot a bit hard...
By the way is it all now change to m12 ? so how do I know which parts is m12 ? I mean for the steel rod ..
good luck to you all thanks .

Currently, only the X axis rod which carry the heathead is M12. All others stubs are M8

Hi ! Mean that the x and z are m12 the y axis is still remain m8 right ?

the Two rods for Z are M12. The Three rods for X are: 1 M12 and 2 M8

ok got you sir thanks :)

great project,
I'm very interested to build this printer. The project is complete and affordable. But I think the Part List (BOM) is indispensable. The project is very hard without.
I'm waiting for the BOM.

great printer. I'm planning to build this, could you please let me know if you have the bom as well as the assembly instructions.

Good day ! Tell me how much on how much you have to cut out of Aluminum . Where it is possible to take your files to print ? screen and upper and lower mounting table . Thanks in advance !

I assume you mean "jonction_plateau.dxf" file on which sit the bed ? It can be made in Fiberglass 3mm (as mine) or aluminum for better stifness..

Please tell me the table dimensions ? how much how much to cut ?

what do you mean by "table" ?

thank you for sharing a good printer.
ı want to see print sample ,is it possible?
and is there a monuel or something to assembly?
thank you very much :)

Hi , see pictures, there are 2 print samples. Instructions are in object description.

Hey, where did you buy your Z motors? They have integrated leadscrews right?

What lead screw length ? Thanks.

Thanks for the quick reply! :)
Are they good? Well packaged?

Hey obor,
really a great design! I want to start building your design soon. I was wondering how exactly the bed is build. Are there only the glasplate and the two headbeds, clambed to the glasplate? Or is there something under the heatbeds? On some pictures i see kind of a metal profile under the bed structure. Maybe you could give me a little bit more details? More Pictures would also be great :)
Thank you and again really great work!



Hi Snoopy,
Thanks you.
The bed is a sandwich like this: bullpack aluminium isolator + fiberglass plate 1mm + flexible silicon heater+ glass plate 4mm.
All is fixed together with 6 clips.

Hey obor,
thank you for the reply :) Okay cool one point done on my list :)
On the pictures it looks like you are using some metal profiles under the bed support structure?
and do you connect boths sites with a profile?
Questions over questions :)
Thank you!



I added some pictures on the bed and its suport. Yes, there are 2 metals profiles to add rigidity to the bed support, but they are not really neded, depends on what fiberglass thickness you are using.

So Bed is clear :) I build up the Frame and now i am starting with X and Y axes. You added a new Y axis bearing holders, do you use the same for the X axis? On the Pictures it looks like you do this.



which part name do you mean

Y-Axis Front Right and left etc., when i look at the X-axis part from the Ultimaker Clone your Design based on they seem not to fit, so i am wondering if you used you Y-Axis parts also for the X-Axis.

No, Y parts are different that X parts. IF you measure distance between hole center and side you will get approx 33mm, while for X parts it should be around ~37mm

Ah okay, which X parts do you use? In your files there are only Y parts, and the X parts from the ultimaker clone wont fit.

I use the X parts from Ultimaker clone

Only the X-Axis Back Parts? I Mean the 2 Back parts also for the front. the Normal X Axis Front parts would colide with the your Y axis parts. questions over questions. I Thing when i finished the printer i write everything down ;)

yes, use only Gantry_X-Axis_Back_Left_v2.stl and Gantry_X-Axis_Back_Right_v2.stl on both X sides. Btw thanks for your remark, I will fix the description

Hey obor,
i now have the frame and the mechanichal parts done :) Now the wirering. Do you have any hints for the X and Y endstops? Or some picture for your solution? For the Bed i desidet to use a hole alluminium Bed with two 300x300 het pads glued to it. I used this in another build and think its an easier solution for me :)


Allright :) now the Axes are clear too :)
Thank you!!

Cool, that makes everything a lot easier :) Thank you!

I liked this one. Do you have complate part list (BOM) for this printer? Especially mechanic parts. Bearing, pulley, gt2 trigger etc.


No sorry, the BOM is still not available. However , the BOM is very similar to the Aluminium printer that it was inpired from. Start from that list, and apply changes described in description.

I have a RAMPS board and I need some help with the firmware. I was wondering if you could help.

See marlin configuration files (configuration.h and configuration_adv.h).in thing files tab. They should be compatible with Ramps 1.4

RAMPS board as in Prusa i3?

The RAMPS 1.4 Controller Board

Yes, that is the board for Prusa i3. So you want help with Marlin. I think if you say what kind of help you need someone here may be able to help you. I can't help with that. I just followed the instructions in the configuration manual for my computer and I have not revisited the Marlin software I downloaded. However, I may in the future because my LCD is not functioning properly. It says there is an SD card in the slot on the first screen, but the next screen says there is no card. Having to print with the printer connected to my computer is annoying, but at least I have worked through my other issues with the printer and am printing stuff now.

Here is a thread on Reprap that covers the card issue -http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?146,238858. I plan to try some of the suggestions, starting with getting another SD card and formatting it differently.

There are lots of different boards for the i3. RAMPS 1.4 is also not exclusive to the i3, it is used on many other printers also.

Is there a link which explains how to setup the firmware for the bigger building volume?
Can I principally install a print head with the drive motor at the head?

The frimware is marlin, you need to configure the "configure.h" and the "configure_adv.h" files. Send me a PM and I'll send my current ones.

hello Great job.

I would like to know which electronic card are you using?


it is a Rumba board

Excuse me if I'm asking something obvious. I'm waiting for delivery if my first 3d printer so am still a newby. What's the build volume on this? Is it :
X axis: 720 mm 6
Y axis: 450 mm
Z axis: 410 mm * 4

What does the *6 mean?
If I'm reading right, all of a sunden I feeling a bit inferior, but at the same time thinking that you could build car parts with this !

X axis: 720 mm * 6 : last number is the quantity

Wow now that's a man-size printer.

Daaaaamn this puts my Hephaestus to shame! But why not real leadscrews?

do you have a list of materials and where to purchase them? this is the size of a 3d printer that i am looking for. thanks

From measuring some distances on a stl view program, it seems that the distance between center of two axes on the print head is 18mm, while the distance between the two axes on the sides is 19mm. Is that true, or is it an error of measurement on the screen? (I'm ignoring the fact that the two sliders swap axes height again because they seem to have zero sum). Thanks!

Humm, I think I figured it out. It's 20mm between side X/Y axis, and each slider elevates the perpendicular axis 19mm away. If you take that 1mm short of each one, you end up with a 18mm difference between the central axys. Does that make sense?

print head parts seem to be too big, it waste lots of xy space

What is the length profile on axis X and Y?

See the text, it has been updated with dimensions

How do you control the temperature of the both heating beds on nearly the same temperature ?

Do you have clocked switch between the arduino and each temperaturresistor ?
Ore is there any kind of wiring to get the meal value of both temperature ?

Thanks for Information !

I use only one temperature probe, located in the middle of the bed glass, and only one output to control the 2 power supply.

why do you need 3 power supply's?

There is one power for electronic, motors and heater,
The 2 others power supply are for beds, that is 2 beds 300x300 linked together under a 600x300 glass.
I choose this solution for reliability, and also because beds use electronic switches for heat control

So if you run your electronics on 24 Volts, a single power supply could be used, correct?

Great design I'm gonna give this a go. Will adjust it a bit because I allready have 50x50mm profiles laying around and been wanting to build my own printer for some time.

Hi Obor,

Please can you make a video step by step or write step and with a list for everything (for material) because it's very interesting to build your project. You can use LM10UU and LM12UU?
Thanks in advance for your reply

Well, it is on my to do list, but meanwhile you can still follow same instructions as for aluminium ultimaker. I use LM8UU for the Y Axis and LM12UU for X Axis.

ok thanks for your reply Obor

Good job. Is there any files for Z axis ?

And the specification details can't say? The length of the profiles? The length of the axes?

Thank you. Great. I have just left profile 2020. I want to try to build YOUR printer. I like it. The only confusing long axis 8mm. And you don't want to try to make a 10mm axle?

If you go to 10mm for X, then you need to replace the 3 rods, at least 4 belt gear with 10mm , 2 new sliders for 10mm, and new heater block. I can draw that pieces if needed. The Z axis needs to be moved away also.

If it is possible. Draw. And the holes in the parts will have to redo a 10mm axle?

Good afternoon. And which profile you are using for the printer? 1515 or 2020?

2020 from misumi

Hi! Do you recommend any particular place to get them from? We really like the black colour instead of the ordinary unfinished aluminum, but it seems almost impossible to get those in Europe. But you seem to have managed? Any tips?


You can get black anodized 2020 Bosch style aluminium extrusions.
Unfortunately, I received mine scratched. The suppliers' excuse was, that they come like this from the manufacturer.
My recommendation; but normal ones, they cost much less, and you can spray paint it, and it will still look better than mine.

Добрый день. А какой профиль используете для принтера? 2020 или 1515?

english please

Great work ! I want one too ;-)

The link for the missing parts points to the same link as http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:811271

I'm curious for the printhead, did you make it yourself or is it somewhere on thingiverse?

Ultimaker 2 Aluminum Extrusion 3D printer

Yes, printhead is home made. See "head_one_extruder_V2" and "head_one_clamp" STL files

3 Power supplies?! o.O

May be for the size of the heatbed?

Yes, one for each bed (300x300) and one for Electronic,motor and hâter.

Damn, don't you have any issues with the x axis bending? Even on the picture i can see a slight bend.
I have looked in your blog and can see that you have some printing quality issues.
... even through their own weight and , assumingly 100gram as weight.... on each shaft. with over 60cm length your average 8mm steel rod
defelcts around 5mm . If not even more....

You should weigh your axes and calculate the deflection yourself. I used this site for a quick calculation. its in inches, but translating from mm is not hard. http://home.huntvac.com/?page_id=3282

Bending of the X axis worried me also a lot initially. At early stage, I had the plan to migrate to 10mm X axis. I ordered some parts for that, but still I have not used it. I don't see this a necessary.

My initial tests and settings reveals many items to improve to remove that Z Banding. But in fact, none were due to X-axis bending.

I printed a big window which occupy most of the pads, and got almost no problems with the adherence of the first layer. And my current setup has no Z-probe.

This should demonstrate that Z bending is not a problem, even if computation says otherwise. I don't know which picture you looked at, but I can assure that I can't see any bending when looking at X Axis from the side. ,

Vibrations of the X axis could be a problem also. But same story, after adjusting parameters in Marlin, and at resasonable speed (70mm/sec) It don't see any problem with that.

Thanks for the link about the tool.

i want to build one too

any guides and bill of materials???

I really appreciate your design and printer and i want to replicate it.Could you please post your BOM ?

Congratulation on the great Printer design.Where did you sourced you extrusions in France as well as the other parts ?

Thanks. All V-slot profile and rods come from misumi-ec. bearing, belt etc... comes from Robotdigg, Heater from E3D-online.

Where did you find such a large heated bed?

There are two beds 300x300 under one 600x300 glass

This is a god damn beast! Thanks for providing some of the UM2 parts that I did not want to buy off of aliexpress! Merci!

I'm very interested in your design...A large printer area and a solid H-Bot design is what I've been looking for is something I've been looking for.

A construction Video would be nice. :)