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Micro 105 FPV Quadcopter - 8.5mm Motors, Micro Scisky

by punkkills Dec 24, 2015
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Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

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Hey, sorry if I'm person nr 1000 asking the same question but ill try anyway:
I tried finding a combination of radio and receiver that are not too expensive, but most stuff from this post is sold out so i looked out on aliexpress. I bought the FlySky FS-i6 radio and this receiver:
I thought its the same FlySky Micro SciSky as frm the post but i havent gotten it to work yet.
Am i doing something wrong or are the similar (looking) versions that have different protocols?

Yes, there are different versions of the FCs with different radio protocols. It looks like the one that you linked is DSM2 which is spektrum. This will work with that radio and is not sold out. https://www.banggood.com/Eachine-FLF3_EVO-Brushed-Flight-Control-Board-Built-in-FLYSKY-Compatible-PPM-6CH-Receiver-p-1091775.html?p=4S26211552037201504F&cur_warehouse=CN

Oh ok that makes sense thank you.
I already ordered the new one thanks! :)

The link for the Micro Scisky isn't working on the Instructables page. Do have a different flight controller that will work? Or can you change the link on the Instructables so it works? Thanks.

Is there any soldering required for this build?(I’m really bad at it and I don’t really want to either) Thanks

The cheapest route is to buy a board from a site like this and solder connectors.


But there are other online sellers like Picnic Quads, who will sell presoldered boards, for more expensive.


I understand that soldering seems tough, but it is unfortunately a necessary evil in this hobby. I personally would recommend you learn to solder via building a brushless quad at some point, so you do not have to pay more fore presoldered parts.

How much overall did this cost you to make?

This is kind of impossible to answer. I list many options for parts and it depends on what gear, like radio or goggles, that you might already have. You could probably get something flying for as little as $50 or spend as much as $600+ if you add in high end goggles and radio.

Thanks, looking forward to building this soon.

im planning on building this in next couple of days i already have the parts

Hey punkkills,

How did you do those awesome flips in your video?

What FC are you using? You will need an FC that can use betaflight or cleanflight.

You need to be in acro mode. Horizion mode will work to, it acts like angle mode if the sticks are near the center but acro mode when the sticks are near the end. Next you need relatively high rates, something over 800-1000 deg/sec for pitch and roll. You can use expo/super expo to tone down the middle of the stick while maintaining higher rates at the end of the stick.

Could you explain how I should wire the electronics if I want to use the FPV camera and VTX? I am confused about what the problem is with powering the two from the FC.

In older version of the Scisky, you would risk burning out the voltage regulator on the FC if you used it to power the camera and VTX. Not sure if that is still true or not.

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I am new to this scene. Can someone explain why you don't need ESC's on this quadcopter?

because it uses brushed motors which do not need escs.

How much would this cost for the whole build?

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Did anyone try implanting the Hubsan X4 107D?

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Thank you very much! I ve used it to build a better case for my carrera Quadcopter. Worked really good and Looks very great! Thanks!

Love the design.
Any chance of a modify version for the beecore F3?

Has anyone sliced this in Cura? Every time I do, the standoffs for the top don't get sliced as full circles. but rather dots that barely connect together, making it ugly looking and very fragile (taking it off the bed is enough to snap them). Any suggestion on what I could do to make it print better?

have you tried mesh mixer? I've found it to be easier than others

WOW Amazing Design.
Im going to build my as soon as my parts arrived.

I was lucky and got up to 11% discount because it is bangood sale:


Thank you sooo much!

Can someone please explain to me how you connect the vr to the fpv camera?

Which receiver does a fs-i6 bind with?

That should work with any of the flysky flight controllers listed.

new to 3d printing and have been interested in quads for a little while now, friend recently got an expensive set up that has fueled that hunger and to be quite honest I can't quite jump in that deep financially. Been looking at this on Thingiverse for several weeks and it immediately got my attention since it mentioned being able to convert the somewhat cheap Hubsan X4 107 models. With there being 100 makes, I tried to find one using this method but most seemed to use micro siscky route. Anybody done the cheapo method? If I grabbed the hubsan off amazon and didnt want video, would i need anything else?

Hello guys! Do anyone know how long i can fly this thing before the battery runs out?

4-5 minutes with a 500mAh battery.

Hi there,
I ordered the following Flight Controller:
Now I have a Spektrum DX6i with DSM2/DSMX support... But it won't bind.
I press the "trainer" Button and turn the radio on, it says "bind" but nothing happen (the red light on the FC still flashes quickly)
I read the instructable and entered all the settings in cleanflight (Ports tab, config. Tab, CLI)... I also tried using PPM RX input and Spektrum 2048 RX Serial...

Does anyone have a clue why the radio does not bind with the FC?
(FC firmware version: Naze v.2.0.2; Cleanflight version 2.0.3)

That board has a FlySky receiver, which is incompatible with the Spektrum radio.

Thanks for your help! I thought because it is dsm2/dsmx compatible this should work...

The following FC that you mentioned in the description should work right?

Yes, that one should work. The one you mention in your first comment is for FlySky.

I love it with the Hubsan 107c and all in one fpv gear, a great and affordable entry level micro FPV quad.

Built the 7mm frame and the motors fit perfectly.
Nice amount of power with the 7mm motors.
Total weight with camera and no battery was 40g.

Great design! Thanks!

One of the coolest things EVER! HAHA im new to the 3D printing world so i get so exited over this stuff!

Hey! Thanks for the great design. I have flown it for a while now and slowly learning. The frame seems durable enough and looks smoking!

Just one quick question: how do you know when the battery is running out? Have you added any low voltage alarm on board? I would like to protect my Lipos from discharging to very low voltages by using some kind of alarm, but haven't found an easy way to add it to the SciSky flight controller

Often you can add a buzzer to go off when the voltage gets low but the sciskys that I have don't support it. Your best bet is to use a timer on your radio and battery checker to try and find a good timer value that gets you down at the voltage that you want.

Hey, thanks for answering! :)

For future reference, I just stumbled upon this: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=36900895&postcount=2216
It seems you can change the pin functions in Betaflight (or Cleanflight 2), so adding a buzzer would indeed be simpler than I thought. Definitely going to try it.

Hi. I am trying to design my frame for 8.5mm motors but can't get a perfect motor holder with friction fit. Could you possibly gimme the dimensions you have used in your design for motor holder? Thanks

Printed V4 Bottom in ABS with Z axis scaled 110% So there is more strength around the batteries. Came out to be 5 grams! Probably going to break quickly but I can easily print another one a little beefed up.

Motors, board, battery all come to be 41 grams. Hopefully flight time will be more than 5 minutes.

Next step is to get motors with less mass!

Hi punkkills,
I finished building your quad, and after a very steep learning curve I have got to the point where I can get three of the four motors spinning but the fourth one will only spin if I tilt the quadcopter. an Then it spins no problem. I have double checked all the settings and have re calibrated the accelerometer a couple of times, but nothing resolves it.
I have read through all the comments on instructables and thingverse, but I still can't find a answer.I thought I would ask here before i order a new motor.

Hi punkkills,
I have resolved my problem. It was a faulty motor.
Thanks for responding. I have been flying it far about a week with a LOT of crashes and it still flies!!

Hello Kanata, sorry for the late response. If you couldn't get the motor to spin at all, I would say it was the FC, but since you can get it to spin, my guess is that its probably the motor as you said.

I just printed with Petg
Its kind of flexible. Is this normal?

Yeah, I didn't have much luck with Petg for this reason. I would recommend ABS or PLA.

Hi punkkills,
Thanks for the great build. I am a total newbie so I need to figure out which flight controller is compatible with my transmitter?? (FlySky FS-i6 ).

Thanks Kanata! In the description I list two different FCs with 3 different receivers each. Either the Eachine F3 or Scisky labeled FlySky should work.

what motors fit this??? i tried using my stock nano qx motors but there way to small???

8.5mm or 7mm depending on the frame you choose. I link motors in the description.

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How long of flight do you get from the 500 mAh battery? Also cool quad, might make one.

I get around 4-5 minutes on a 500mAh. You should make one, it is a blast!

Do you know if any of the receivers work with the Turnigy 9x controller?

Which two files, top and bottom, fit together? Does it matter which ones I use?

All tops fit with all bottoms, Its a matter of what you want. For the top, I would recommend either v3 if you want top mount battery or v4 if you want bottom mount.

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A few of us are making these at school and it has been a blast so far. Could you share your fusion 360 design, to make it easier to modify, I get weird issues when I try to work with stl's.

Thank you for your work!

I've actually been thinking about sharing the source for a while now. Here is the link http://a360.co/2afG4Dh. This is v4 with the AIO camera mount. Let me know if you are interested in a version with the original camera. If you make a cool derivative of this post a remix!

Hi, awsome frame !! I have download and completed the bulid up.. thank you so much! ...use to fly bigger quad but this is my first build on micro size...awsome...great..

Thanks! Glad you like it. I fly all in between these micros and 5" as well. These little guys definitely help pass the time in the winter.

Has anyone tried a GoPro on this? I was wondering if the drone is strong enough.

This is definitely not strong enough for a GoPro. I can feel the difference between a few grams on this little guy. If it weighed 10 more grams it would barely fly. If you want to mount a GoPro on a quad, you want to go with at least 4 or 5 inch props.

Cheapest radio/transmitter+flight controller setup I found is this, for about 70$ total.
I can confirm its working fine!

25$ Micro Scisky 32bits Brushed Flight Control Board Built-in FlySky Compatible RX For DIY Micro Frame

46.39$ FlySky FS-i6 2.4G 6CH AFHDS RC Transmitter With FS-iA6B Receiver

You don't need the FS-iA6B Receiver as the micro scisky already has one built in, so if you can find it cheaper without it - go for it :)

Really need this cheaper its 184 $ anyway we can 3D print anything

Can u find a cheaper transmitter
Am I able to buy a new transmitter and the thing that goes in the drone(I'm new to this stuff)
Is the vr needed

Thanks just wondering

No, the vr is not needed and yeah, you can buy cheaper as long as they're compatible

Can use any 2.4 ghz controller

Can I print the props so I can save money from buying it?

You could in theory, but they would most likely explode under high centrifugal forces. You’d be better off spending a few extra bucks to get pre-balanced, stronger propellers.

Yes, 3D printed thins can't be very stable, buy them should make it fly better. Tkanks

Im having issues with the screw columns printing. Instead of the printer doing circular layers to build them up it is dotting then going round. Im ending up with a sub par top piece. Im using cura. Can anyone suggest anything here?

Im having issues with the screw columns printing. Instead of the printer doing circular layers to build them up it is dotting then going round. Im ending up with a sub par top piece. Im using cura. Can anyone suggest anything here?

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which software did you use to create this frame.
i got my 1st 3d printer this christmas and now i would like to create my own frames.

can you recommend a good/beginner software to create drone frames.

best regards
pau :)

Hello, I used Fusion 360 to design this frame. That program is amazing. It is a professional quality cad design program which has a free license for startups and hobby use. Check it out! There are a good amount of tutorials available on YouTube and its pretty easy to get started with.

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which software did you use to create this frame.
i got my 1st 3d printer this christmas and now i would like to create my own frames.

can you recommend a good/beginner software to create drone frames.

best regards
pau :)

Google SketchUp is also a fairly common and easy software to use.

Try 123D Design. It is very easy to use.

Just finished putting together the drone with FPV but can't get it to fly properly. I bought a Hubsan X4 107C and dismantled it, keeping all the wiring intact. I put all the motors and circuit board into the 3d printed frame. I bought the All in One FPV (FX798T), soldered the wires to the circuit board - video tested fine. When I try to fly it the copter it flips over instantly. I have double checked I've the A/B props the right way round, and I have tried calibrating the accelerometer, but nothing seems to work. I was able to fly the original Hubsan just fine, so I am at a loss as to what is the problem. Any ideas?

are the props turning the correct direction? do a hold test and watch them move one at a time.

Thanks, the props were ok. It was just that I had installed the FC upside down. All good now :)

Are you certain that you didn't install the FC upside down? That is the only thing that I could imagine happening especially if you kept the motors wired up and double checked the prop direction.

Is the "FC" the circuit board that the motors are wired to? It could be upside down - I didn't realise it made a difference.

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Yeah, FC stands for flight controller. It has an accelerometer in it to know which direction is up and down. If it is upside down, it will try to correct so it is right side up. That would definitely explain the flipping :).

Thanks, you were right! FC was upside-down. All good now :)

Awesome, glad you got it working!

I noticed on your pictures the motors have different coloured wires, one colour means the motor spins clockwise and the other anticlockwise. Does it matter how they are placed and hooked up? I used all motors with red and blue. I have trouble with mine drifting to the right :s

Yeah, one color combination is for CW and the other for CCW. I describe this in my Instructable linked in the description.

I actually asked bangoood a question about wiring and they sent me to this link http://forum.banggood.com/forum-topic-248652.html , it shows the wiring fo all red blue wired motors. So thats what I did. Do you think that would be my problem ? Thanks

Brushed motors will work in either direction based on how you hook up the wires, however they are optimized to work in a particular direction indicated by the wire color. I would recommend following the guide on instructables and use the correct motors in their respective positions.

That might not be what is causing your drift however. Are you using cleanflight or betaflight? What version?

Brushed motors will work in either direction based on how you hook up the wires, however they are optimized to work in a particular direction indicated by the wire color. I would recommend following the guide on instructables and use the correct motors in their respective positions.

That might not be what is causing your drift however. Are you using cleanflight or betaflight? What version?

Swapped the motors and it flies perfect :)

Swapped the motors and it flies perfect :)

Swapped the motors and it flies perfect :)

Swapped the motors and it flies perfect :)

Swapped the motors and it flies perfect :)

Swapped the motors and it flies perfect :)

Swapped the motors and it flies perfect :)

I tried both programs with the latest versions and they were doing the same thing, even when just ramping the motors up in the software will cause it to drift. I have a few more things to try then I might swap the motors around like your instructable.

I also tried 16000 pwn with no luck.

Although when I research the controller "issues" I am finding other people with the same issue and not able to resolve it, saying its a software problem.

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I'm currently buying a 3d printer (mp select mini 3d) and this is going to be my first project. i have all ready got a supper small drone so i think if i use all the components in that for this it may work but probs not. could u plz reply or send me a message of the parts u used on this awesome little thing, thanks ahock38.

its in the description

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Love the design have printed this about ten time cause i fly it pretty hard and break it eventually. The only place i ever break it is at the motor mount... the thicker part of the motor mount separates leaving the frame the same thickness all around (only one corner breaks at a time). It still flies but the motors just pop off easy if that separates (imagine slicing of the motor mount off and the frame being all one height) Wondering if you have similar experience? It only happens on really hard wrecks which is completely understandable. I tried turning up the temp on the extruder to make sure im getting good bond between layers but haven't noticed any improvement.

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Hi, great project!! I have started mine thank you so much! I have a question to anyone listening.

Is there a HD camera I could use with this? Or would that drain the battery too much and decrease flight time?

Thank you

Thanks! You won't be able to run an HD camera. There are HD fpv systems which are far to heavy and very expensive. Even the lightest HD recording cameras are far to heavy as well. The entire F{V system on this guy is only around 6g. Things need to be very light.

WIll this fit on a M3D printer?

Looks like it should. I see online that it's 109x113, and that should probably be big enough. just download it and pull it into your slicer, and you shouldn't have trouble figuring it out there.

Can I use a 2 or 3 cell battery?

no, they would be too big. You could try, but it would probably be too big and possibly fry the board. If you wanted, you could take two of the lipo batteries and use them in parallel. Plug + together and - together and then into the board. That way you get same voltage, but double ish flight time.

Could use a voltage step down module I guess. I have a few 2s batteries. Might give it a go

I feel like that might be too heavy. Unless the extra power is able to "overcome" the weight. :)

Drone noob here :) Apart from the satisfaction of building a drone yourself (certainly a big plus), are there any other benefits to making this copter or buying something off the shelf. Is it cheaper to make this model rather than buy one?

You learn something new - building copters.
That also helps a lot when you need to repair your crashed drone... and if you 3d-printed the frame yourselv you'll have no trouble getting a new one in no time.

They're about the same. You can buy some BNF(bind and fly) models for around 60 dollars of this size range, but they're just a tad smaller, and a little more expensive. Building it would be saving like 5-10 bucks. Correct me if I'm off.

For printing the v4 version, the recommended nozzle setting says 0.48 and mine is .4. Is it right to change it? Also i dont understand the top and bottom perimater settings? Thanks

If you have a 0.4 nozzle, you can still set the extrusion width to 0.48mm, in fact this is more optimal than a 0.4mm extrusion with a 0.4mm nozzle. The pieces are optimized to have exact extrusion widths. The top and bottom perimeter settings refer to which piece you are printing, the top of the quad or the bottom. Each piece will print best with the specified perimeter count.

Thank you, is the perimeter setting adjustable in cura, or are you guys using a different slicer

you should be able to adjust it in cura, but i'm not too familiar with it.

Some sort of antenna protection would be awesome. Great little frame, I'm having it printed in nylon right now :]

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Would this controller below work with 6x20mm motors? the body is 20mm, with the shaft it is 25mm. Actually I'm not sure whether they're 6 or 7mm


also, How does the weight balance? wouldn't it be way too front heavy?

wait I found out how here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6U-rjC39EXQ
What happened is the "high rate" on the cheap transmitter aren't high enough. the numbers when in cleanflight need to be able to go under 1100 when at the bottom, and when at the top over 1900. How can I change that? I'm going to take apart the transmitter to look for potentiometers I can adjust

You can use rxrange in the cli to scale your endpoints. Check out this page, https://github.com/cleanflight/cleanflight/blob/master/docs/Rx.md. Let me know if you need any more help.

I'm back! I have an old 4 channel spektrum, it binds, but I can't get it to arm. I also can't get the board to show up on my laptop, but it has a software already.I tried the binding with rudder, but I can't get it to work. Is 4 channels OK, and how could I try to get it to show up on my computer?

That flight controller that you link is the same as the one I link in the description, with the addition of the micro-jst plugs for the motor wires. To use this, you will either need to buy motors with that connector installed or be able to crimp that connector to the motor wires. I typically use FCs without those connectors, i'm ok with direct soldering the motor wires.

Oh, alright, thanks. Couldn't I just solder the motors to the bottom side instead of getting the plugs?

Yeah, you could do that. Or you could cut/de-solder the plugs away.

Thank you for this nice tiny little quadcopter tutorial! I'm a total newbie to quadcopters, my past RC experience is limited to flying small coaxial helicopters (yeah, lame, i know).

While I'm waiting for the parts I've 3D-printed the frame with Colorfabb XT on an Ultimaker 2.

The frame seems rather flexible to me. There is no perceptible wobbling when I hold the (empty) frame by one motor holder and shake it, but it is really easy to bend it by hand. is that OK or should I reprint it using PLA?

How big an issue is stiffness for a quadcopter this small?

Is the Colorfabb XT a bit more flexible, like PETG? I never had good success with PETG because of the flexibility. I've had good luck with PLA and ABS. That being said, you will notice the frame stiffen up quite a bit when you bolt the top plate to the bottom plate using some nylon hardware.

If I am not mistaken, "Colorfabb XT" and "PETG" are two names for the same material.
This could be the perfect material for printing prop guards!

I'll print a frame with PLA for reference and decide on that -- my ABS parts usually come out warped, at least when it's cold outside (and in my lab).

Thanks for your advice and quick response time!

Ok, yeah, I thought they might be the same but hadn't used the colorfab. Make sure that you print either v3 (no battery hooks) or v4 (same as v3 with battery hooks) bottom. Those have the best strength/rigidity to weight balance.

do u have any good pid setting for this little monster?

hello punkkills,

a couple of weeks ago i build this quadcopter. first it works fine but i flashed my scisky to alienflight because a read that this firmware worked better. but i after i did this i whated to go back to naze but can't connect any more. when i try to reflash it. it give me a error (no response from bootloader, programming; failed) do you no whats wrong here. hope you can help

Hey, sorry about the delay, I was away for a few days. You might need to shot the bootloader pins. See this thread. https://community.micro-motor-warehouse.com/t/flashing-scisky-bootloader-corrupted-solution/1338. If you have a new Scisky, here is an image of that. https://cdn-standard.discourse.org/uploads/micro_motor_warehouse/original/2X/c/c53a00319f856dfdfa2721966a77048a52837b64.png

Will the micro scisky work with an e-flite LP5DSM radio? It is left over from a broken helicopter and it is not being used on anything else at the moment. Thanks for any help.

Nope, it needs cppm/sbus output. All radio channels on one wire.

I honestly don't know, sorry. Maybe somebody else here does?

I bought the Fs Fly controller you have listed (http://www.banggood.com/FsFly-T-six-2_4GHz-6CH-DSM2-Compatible-Transmitter-For-RC-Models-p-1038245.html). However, I have encountered difficulty in binding the controller to the scisky. How would I go about doing this?

Did you follow the binding instructions in the instructable guide? I know that they changed the scisky around a bit from when I first wrote the guide and published this thing but if you look at comments from ChristianG134 on the instructable, he indicates that the T-Six should work with the new boards.

What happens when you try to bind? Does the red light stop flashing on the Scisky? What happens when you power up the FC with the radio on? Does the red light start flashing quickly after 10 seconds still? Or is it that you don't see movement of the channels in the configurator?

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The problem is that I cant put it into bind mode. The T-six only has instructions for binding with a specific key sold separately. Do I need the key for it or is there another way to bind it?

You can't put the scisky or the radio into bind mode? The scisky will enter bind mode after being powered on for 10 seconds. The red LED will begin flashing rapidly. I'm not sure how you put the T-six into bind mode, but it should be in the directions.

My drone keeps spinning from take off like a top and the motors and props are on correctly. Please help!!!!!!!!!!!

Did you figure it out? Yaw is controlled by torque so it sure seems like the motors and/or props are installed wrong. Can you take a picture?

Yes I have solved the problem. I received a bad circuit board causing two adjacent motors to run much weaker then the others. In fact, after just a few second of running, the motors completely stop spinning. Thank you for the reply.

Hi there I am looking to make this quadcopter and was wondering about the all in one cameras. First what it the difference between the two and I also wanted to know how to connect it to the board.

I really like your design and look forward to getting into this hobby.

For power, you just need to solder + and - to the battery pads on the Scisky. Installation is much easier with the all in ones.

Thanks for your speedy answer. Looks like I'm getting the 98 version then.

This hobby is going to be quite exciting.

Oh, its amazing :D.

The FX797 and FX798 are very similar. I believe that the FX798 is the newer version with a flexible antenna. I would choose the FX798 for that reason. I'm not sure if there are any other differences.

Edited: wrong comment replied to :P.

i just finished the build of the micro quadcopter and have a problem. my quadcopter doesn't arm. the green led light keeps blinking. can somebody tell me what i am doing wrong.

Hello, please read my response to webberen in the comments of my instructable page. If that doesn't help or you have more questions, please ask.

i found a way to arm my quad but there are still some issues. to arm i have to move the throttle stick to the upper right instead of the lower right. when i give throttle some motors keep behind. also when i give max throttle it will stop spinning all the motors

the link below has a little video of the problem.

It sounds like your throttle channel is reversed. In the receiver tab of the Configurator, when you push both sticks to the upper right, the channel values should all be at their maximum. See if there are any channels that need reversing and reverse the channels in your radio.

What radio are you using?

i reversed the channels. searched a lot on the internet but nothing seems to work. i swapped motors but still the same result.
do you have maybe another idea what i can try. also when i give full throttle the motors stop spinning

video below shows the problem

i looked to it but did not seem to work for me, got the throttle to 1047-1952 but did still noting. i also did the "get min_check" that was 1100. the motors have turn before i asked this question only when they were armed they didn't spin at the same time and when i held the quad in my hand an rotated it the speed of the motor adjust it self. so i guess its something to do with the accelerometer

If I get a Hubsan H107C will this frame be lighter than the stock frame? Will this frame fit the parts of the H107C? Thanks

The frame probably weights a little bit more than the hubsan frame. The FC and motors should work just fine. I'm not sure if you intend to use the stock camera, but that might need a bit more finagling. I know people have stolen the H107C FC and motors for this frame and added separate FPV gear.

Nice one! Have you thought about making a hexacopter version? I plan on using the F3 brushed hexa board with hardware from a MJX X800. I'll probably design something as well but I like your design! :)

In an attempt to print the camera platform it comes into the printer upside down. What is the best way to flip it?

It depends on what slicer you are using. You want to rotate it by 180 on the x or y. With simplify 3d you can align a face to the bed.

I want to flip it on the table or rotate it 180 degrees about the x axis.

What slicer are you using? It should let you orient the model.

You load the model into slicer, click it once to highlight it, then right click it so the menu pops up,hover over "rotate", click "about the x axis"

Hey, thanks for the help. I'm a noob at 3 d. As long as it imports I get parts but never had to move em around any. It didn't work exactly like you said because I likely have an older version but in the process I found a tab for placement and by you asking which axis I found the right info to input to get it to download what I wanted. Which was 180 flip and adjust up the y axis by 18 thanks for your help.

Excellent, glad you got it working!

I'm having trouble with my transmitter and CleanFlight.

I'm using the FsFly T-Six as suggested in your post. I'm also using the MicroScisky flight controller. I'm able to flash the firmware, calibrate my accelerometer, and complete all of the steps up until I'm supposed to see the values on the Receiver Tab change as I move the transmitter's sticks. I'm not seeing any change, in fact, the values are frozen at 1500, with the exception of the throttle, which looks quite low on the meter, but has a value of 885.

My transmitter and receiver seem to have bound fine, as whenever the transmitter is off, the red light blinks until I turn on the transmitter, so I don't think that's the problem. Any ideas as to why the Receiver Tab is unresponsive to my transmitter's input?

Well, like I tend to do, I fixed the problem 20 minutes after posting a question!

Randomly adjusting things led me to the solution of changing RX_SERIAL to RX_PPM in the configuration tab. I hope this helps anyone else who was having this problem.

Interesting, I'm not sure that I have seen anybody have to do that. I'm glad you got it sorted out.

I had the same issue. looks like the scisky's up on banggood have been updated to DSMX compatible, which requires that setting change. here's a forum result I found on the issue: https://community.micro-motor-warehouse.com/t/fc-scisky-fully-integrated-2-5g-cleanflight-fc/35/877

I had the same issue.

Is there any way to use the flight controller you spec'd with this remote?


That remote uses a different protocol unfortunately. If you could find a micro flysky RX, you could use it with this the evo brused FC, it doesn't have a built in RX and has available uarts.

Thank you for the info.

I have never built a Quadcopter before and am very new to this...

I figured I'd start here because your Instructables is so well documented... I was just hoping that if I buy a remote, I could use it for a larger and more advanced quadcopter in the future - But I was unsure as to the remotes you spec'd requiring a DSM2 compatible receiver. A couple questions:

  • Does the Micro Scisky have a DSM2 reciever built in? It seems that this may be a main advantage of the board.

  • Are there more advanced flight controllers and higher-end quads that use this protocol as well? In other words, how popular or what kind of market penetration does the DSM2 protocol have?

Yes, the Micro Scisky has DSM2 built in. DSM2 and DSMX are Spektrum protocols and they are fairly popular. The only problem is that Spektrum radios tend to be pretty expensive.

Typically, flight controllers, especially ones not tailored to micro quads with brushed motors, don't have a receiver built in. The Scisky is nice that it does because weight is an important factor on these micro quadcopters and it eliminates a component from the build.

If you wanted to build another quad in the future, you could certainly add a compatible rx into the mix along with the flight controller you choose. A lot of the bind and fly quadcopters and airplanes, especially from horizion hobby also use DSM2/DSMX protocol.

All that being said, the most popular protocol for people building their own racing/acro quadcopters is FrSky which is used by the Taranis that I link. You can couple that with a DSM2 module that I also link to to use that radio with the Scisky. While the Taranis has a hefty price tag, It is a great radio. Unfortunately, it is hard to get a hold of those modules these days, HobbyKing is always sold out it seems.

Here would be my order of preference:

  1. Taranis Plus + OrangeRX DSMX/DSM2 Module. This is what I use. If you can't find an Orange Module, you can try this MultiProtocol TX Module which would also allow you to bind to a large selection of toy quads (I have not personally used this module so I can't confirm that it works, but it should). This gives you a great radio with unlimited flexibility but with a high cost of entry.

  2. Spektrum DX6i. This was my first radio. It will work with the scisky and many other bind and flys. You can easily find compatible receivers for future projects.

  3. FsFly T-Six or Orange T-Six. Both of these radios are basically the same and are cheaper. They don't have DSMX so you wont be able to find as many bind and fly options, but there are receivers available for future projects.

Sorry there is not an easy answer :P. Let me know if you have any more questions.

Hello Spektrum DX6i 6 Channel Transmitter it work good for scisky? ?

Thank you for all of the info. If you do not mind, I will keep you posted on this build as I go (via a MAKE). Thank you for your work here...

It will be nice to work on a project that is not for my 3D printer.


Yeah, please do. You make a pretty nice extruder :).

Printed out one of these ver4 in ABS. Motor holes were much too small for 8.5mm motors required a lot of sanding. Also not stiff enough, too much vibration in all the motors but it flies ok and durable. Trying again in PLA

try using 100%infill

after some searching on the internet i found a couple parts cheaper

micro scisky control board = http://www.gearbest.com/multi-rotor-parts/pp_345148.html?wid=21
motors 4x + props = http://www.gearbest.com/multi-rotor-parts/pp_429732.html?wid=21
extra props = http://www.gearbest.com/rc-quadcopter-parts/pp_196981.html?wid=21
transmitter = http://www.gearbest.com/mkron-_gear/

i am almost ready to buy the parts but can somebody verify for me that these parts are the right parts
the difference in price is for me about 38 euro or 43 dollar

Flight controller is the same of course. The motors look to be the same size. Battery doesn't list a C rating so that would make me a bit nervous. I don't know about those props, I only have experience with the hubsan and lady bird props and I prefer the lady bird. Those t-six transmitters should be the same as the t-six that I link. I think that there are a few rebranded versions of those floating around depending on where you look.

thanks. but what happend if the C rating is to high or to low

The C rating is how much current you can draw from the battery related to it's capacity. If you have a 500mAh battery, rated at 25C you can expect to be able to draw a sustained 12.5A from the battery (.5 * 25). If you have a 40C on the other hand, you could pull 20A. It is important that you can feed those motors the current that they want. I can tell a large difference in available thrust between the hubsan replacement batteries and the nano-tech batters that I link to. You can't ever have a C rating that is too high :). The fact that those batteries don't even list a C rating would be a red flag for me.

how wide are the screw holes?

if you wanted you could just use the printable replacement screws. they're in the info somewhere...

the holes are 3mm

the design of this mine drone is great and i would love to make one. only i think the price of the radio options are pretty high, if you compare this to the total cost of the drone. is there maybe a cheaper option for the radio. or is this the only option because of the dsm2 receiver.

there is another option punkills says. just buy the hubsan h07lc or whatever is is, and use those electronics and it's controller. combined, they only cost around the price of the microsisky

You can get a Walkera Devo 7E for $60 which will work just fine with the SciSky if you flash it with the DeviationTX firmware. If you have some soldering skills it can also be made to work with just about every other radio protocol as well.

This is probably not a good choice for your first quadcopter, I would suggest you get one of the $15 RTF quads from Banggood or Gearbest and see if you like it, something like http://www.banggood.com/Eachine-H8-Mini-Headless-Mode-2_4G-4CH-6-Axis-RC-Quadcopter-RTF-p-975808.html. Flies extremely well inside and outside in calm conditions and is ready to fly out of the box. If you decide it's a hobby that appeals then you'd be best to invest a little more on a transmitter that is going to go the distance.

i think your right with the little invenst. thanks

Punkkills, I got an Instructables newsletter advertising a drone contest. I saw your printable drone in the picture, but it doesn't look like your Instructable is an entry. If you submitted your instructable to the contest, I would give it my vote in a moment!

Here's the link to the contest: http://www.instructables.com/contest/drones2016/

Unfortunately I already have an instructable for the quad that was submitted before the date for this contents. I was a finalist in a previous 3D printing contest. They do give me credit at the bottom of the image so that's cool.

Well, congrats on making to the finals in another contest. I just think it's cool that they gave your quad a prominent position in the banner.

First ebay and now Instructables; Where will your quad pop up next?..

Thanks man :). I had a little blurb in the drone issue of Make Magazine around March or April. I should post a pic.

That's how I found out about your quad. The small price tag and full fpv functionality is what drew me to it among the other quads in Make: Magazine.

Oh, that's cool to hear. I wasn't sure how much of an impact that had. It was definitely cool to see it in a magazine :).

Great project and in the middle of my own build at the moment. I am stuck on radio selection and feel inclined to go with the Taranis option. The only issue at the moment is it seems the OrangeRX DSM2/DSMX module from HobbyKing has been on back order for several months, and apparently the 2015+ versions have some operational issues according to what I've read online. Does any know if this module from Banggood will work with the Taranis?

The Taranis is a great choice, especially if you see yourself being in the hobby for a while. That module does claim to support DSM2 but I can't say that it will work for sure with confidence. I have had my eye on that module and would love to try it out.

Hmm... I got mine together and running but it can't quite take off. I don't know if my batteries are too big (got 600mah ones since I'm not using a camera yet, figured it'd be ok). My scale says 55g. Wondering if it is the weight, the settings, of the fact that I somehow managed to plug my jst connector in backwards and got a puff of smoke. The puff of smoke definitely worries me though I was able to bind and control the quad, still.

Do the motors spin up at least? Can you confirm that the props are spinning in the correct direction and that the props aren't reversed?

They spin properly, I even got it to fly with a 240mah battery I have, though it didn't go very high and the battery seemed to be running down after only a few seconds of flight. I could hear the motors slowing down after about 20s.

I bought cheap motors off AliExpress, makes me wonder if one or more of them is problematic.

It sounds like you may have damaged the board with the reverse polarity. A 240 should least at least a minute or two.

Yeah, that and it barely had enough power to lift off even with the lighter battery. I wonder if I can replace the part that burned out. I'll have to investigate. Suppose I'll buy a new board, they aren't all that expensive. Annoying, I figured the JST connectors would prevent plugging in the wrong way but I guess they are flimsy enough to allow the plug to fit in backwards.

Out of curiosity, what do you figure is the upper weight limit of one of these things?

Good question, I've never really tested it. With my heaviest batteries I run close to ~50-52g maybe. I would imagine it would lift maybe 58-62g with a struggle. Probably around 55g is the where agility and punch out will start to decay dramatically.

Yeah, so mine not taking off at 55g means it has something wrong with it one way or the other, it should at least fly. Either the scisky or the motors are a problem, or maybe I messed up a config item somewhere, though I think I got them all.

Some questions before you go changing things.

Can you confirm that max_throttle is set to 2000?
What cleanflight version?
In the receiver tab, what is the range of numbers that you can get out of your throttle stick?
What radio are you using?

I really like the design. I´ve build one (pictues are coming soon) and due to the good instructions everything worked fine. Flying this small thing is not that easy but it foregives some crash-landings without break down.
A really fantastic design which inspired me to build up a simular one as a hexacopter.
Do you have any suggestions for a flight controller incl. DSM2 receiver for six brushed motors? I found only FC without receiver. Or is there a possibility to use the free serial ports on the micro SciSky for the remaining two motors?

I guess somebody is already trying to make money off your design... xD

Although he posted a link to punkkills' instructable, this is still clearly in violation of the "Creative Commons - Attribution - Non-Commercial - Share Alike" licence. Emphasis on "Non-Commercial"...

That's not cool.

He's asking a hefty price tag too :O. I don't even think the frame is worth that much :P. I'll try sending him a message to kindly take it down and see how that goes.

The only thing that would justify that price would be the good design :)

I asked them to take it down, we'll see what happens. Here is another, http://www.ebay.in/itm/3d-printed-Micro-105-FPV-Quadcopter-8-5mm-Motors-Micro-Scisky-/152106335930, sounds expensive :P.

Love the new section on FPV, I was doing a bunch of research to find a good option for this micro class copter.

I have a few questions though:

How did your setup work with the $10 camera and transmitter module work with your Fatshark goggles? Do all Fatshark goggles need a special receiver (like the one in the link you posted) to work with generic modular transmitters?

Also, did you find that using the modular transmitter limited your range as compared to the new camera+transmitter in your current setup?

Thanks for the great community contribution!

The DIY gear worked just fine with my fatshark module. In fact, I have an older module than the one I link that only supports 7 channels that don't even match the vTX exactly. The channels are close enough to work however. Many of the fatshark goggles, like the Dominators and HDs require a receiver module, they don't have a receiver built in. Most or all of the current receiver modules available will work with the video transmitter that I link to.

With the DIY setup, I could go out a few hundred feet without much disturbance in video. That's plenty far for these little guys IMO. I haven't been able to give the new all in one combo a good range test yet, but I suspect the range will be comparable or maybe a bit less than the DIY option. The trade off is a lower power transmitter in the all in one 25mW vs 200mW. But the all in one uses a better antenna than I'm personally using with the DIY gear. I'll post back when I can do some range tests.

Just to clarify, a Fatshark Predator V2 should work just fine with the FX758-2 5.8G 200mW 32CH vTX out of the box?

Honestly, I can't say for sure. It looks like those goggle do have a built in receiver. And they look to support the same fatshark frequencies that the module that I currently use supports (5740MHz, 5760Mhz, 5780MHz, 5800Mhz, 5820MHz, 5840Mhz, 5860Mhz) and works with. You will notice that these channels are 5MHz off from the group A frequencies of the FX758-2 transmitter (Ch1:5725MHz Ch2:5745MHz Ch3:5765MHz Ch4:5785MHz
Ch5:5805MHz Ch6:5825MHz Ch7:5845MHz Ch8:5865MHz). Like I said, this does work for me, but I am reluctant to say that it will work for sure with those goggles.

For reference, this is the module that I'm using that supports the same frequencies as the Predator V2. I bought it over a year ago and just haven't upgraded :). http://www.readymaderc.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=524

Comments deleted.

The holes printed small in my machine (Da Vinci 1.0) and the motors made a LOT of tension and ended up breaking the frame in two places on the bottom half. Make sure you have the correct size (I need to scale this up slightly) so it doesn't happen to you :)

What about the distance? How far from the drone you can control it?

Figured I would mention another cheap transmitter. I am using a Walkera Devo 7E that was $48 on ebay new. Flashed the Deviation Firmware onto it and now it can do DSM2. Controls the Scisky fine. But you do have to change to firmware in order to unlock DSM2.

Ah, that is a good suggestion. You don't have to add another tx module or anything for dsm2?

No additional module needed for DSM2.

You can add modules for other frequencies of course. And there a lot of mods people do on this transmitter.


I recently made the quadcopter, and everything is working except the motors. I can see the value go up in Cleanflight when I move the throttle on the controller, but the motors do not spin. At first I thought I made a mistake soldering them on, but I double checked, both by sight and with a multimeter, and they look good. I have a feeling this might be a Cleanflight setting (throttle_max?) but don't really know what's going on. Does anyone have any suggestions or any data that I could share that would help me solve this?


Did you setup a switch for arming? What radio are you using? When you are in the radio tab, what is the lowest value that your throttle will report? What is the highest?

I'm using a Spektrum Dx5e for my radio. I setup a three state toggle switch for arming, with the top being disarmed and the lower two arming the quad. When I go to the Receiver tab, it shows a range of 1167 to 1840 for the throttle value.

Hope this helps.

Ah ok. Is there any way that you can scale the values of the channels output from the Dx5e. You want the range to be as close to 1000 - 2000 as you can get it. On my DX6i, I had to scale the channel values to something like 125% in order to get them close.

There is a value called min_check only accessible from the CLI by typing "get min_check". The copter will not arm if the throttle value is above this. I don't remember what the default is, but I'm pretty sure it is below 1167. I think it might be 1150.

If you can't scale the values being sent from the radio, then you can type "set min_check = 1200" in the CLI and then type "save". Your best bet is to do it from the radio if you can.

I couldn't find a way to scale the throttle values, but I was able to trim them on the controller until they were in a range that fit the min_check. I also tried to use the motor test in Cleanflight, but that didn't work. Does that mean that this is a hardware problem. (and if so, how should I troubleshoot it)

Any interest in a v4 top with taller standoffs? All told it looks like I could use 4-5mm extra height.

I soldered the motor connectors to my FC, and including a little room for the wire bend radius, it adds about 4mm to the required height.

I'm also using some double-sided foam tape that is 1.5mm thick. If I have a piece under the FC, and a piece under (over?) the vTX, it added another 1-2mm required height. Maybe you have a recommendation for a good, double-sided tape that isn't quite so thick.

Here's a photo: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2506999/TightMicro105.jpg



I use hot glue, no additional thickness.

Oh wow, that tape does add a lot. I use this stuff http://amzn.to/29XNThs. Since the bottom of the scisky is not flat, I use only two small strips on the sides where the board is flat, and then i add a zip tie just behind the battery solder pads to help hold it in place. That basically makes the board flush with the side rails of the FC tray. That should give you just enough room. If i get a few minutes, i can try and extend that top.

Thanks for the link to the 3M adhesive. I will try that. The main reason for the increased height is the motor connector sockets.

I can bust out a taller standoff version. What top do you use?

I use the standard v2 top with the camera tilting up: micro105-top-v2.stl

I saw on RCGroups that Banggood is starting to sell a version with the motor sockets already soldered on: http://www.banggood.com/Micro-Scisky-32bits-Brushed-Flight-Control-Board-With-1_25mm-Plugs-For-DIY-Micro-Quadcopter-Frame-p-1067976.html?p=MK04211202332201502Q


Haha, yeah, I noticed you commented on that and I thought your name looked familiar. It reminded me to reply here :P.


Finished printing the bottom (v3). Just realized that I didn't reset from my default 3 perimeters to 4 as recommended. Thoughts? Just use it and see what happens? The print looks good. I used the new MakerGeeks High Performance PLA.

Here are the parameters I used:

Layer Height: 0.2mm
Nozzle: 0.35
Default extrusion width: (Silc3r) 0.3675
Bottom Piece: 3 Perimeters

I would use it and see how it holds up. The worse thing that happens is that you have to print another frame if it breaks. Let me know how that MakerGeeks works out.

Thanks. I'll let you know about the filament. I've heard some pretty good comments about both the strength and ability to withstand high heat.

Would this be compatible with the video transmitter?
Also, how did you record the video? Did you use software or does it come with recording capabilities?
I noticed that in the youtube video, the drone is constantly moving. Can it hover in one place, or does it have to be in constant motion?
Thanks :)

Hello gomukaya.

I would imagine that monitor would work, but as I have not used it, I can't be sure :).

I use the fatshark dominator v2 goggles and they have a built in DVR that I used to record the video.

I prefer acro and racing type flying, so yeah, I'm always moving :). I use the camera mount that is angled up so you kind of need to be pitched forward, which is going to make you fly forward, to keep the horizon in the middle of the image. When flying FPV it is actually easier to learn if you are always moving forward. You don't have any view of your sides or behind you so it is easy to forget about nearby obstacles. You can learn to hover in place for sure, but counter-intuitively, it is harder than flying forward.

Sorry, I don't know enough about that to say.

Do you know if the parts of Micro Drone 2.0 would fit your frame?

Thank you! :)

Is there a channel 5 or 6 on the scisky? What is the right way to pronounce "scisky"?

as in "SciFi"

Good questions. With my taranis and DSM module, I actually get 7 usable channels.

I'm not exactly sure how its supposed to be pronounced. I say the sci as skid minus the d and sky as z, like the end of fuzzy. Skizzy :D. But now that I type all that and look at how its actually spelled, it's probably wrong, haha.


This is a nice design and very good documented with all the buying links.
I am looking at this design to use as a building course for a group of children. The costs must be as low as possible for this purpose.
Is it possible to use this transmitter: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__62709__Turnigy_TGY_i6_AFHDS_Transmitter_and_6CH_Receiver_Mode_1_.html

That sounds awesome! I don't think that radio will work, It's not dsm2. This one from hobby king will work: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idproduct=54822

Another option would be to use a the guts from the hubsan that I link to. It comes with a radio. You won't be able to make any changes to the flight controller without some advanced hacking. This could be good or bad depending on your goals. You can find separate radio, FC and motors for the hubsan so you can make it more like a build but the price is close to the complete quad.


I think somebody successfully used this radio http://amzn.to/266ai6k but it is only 4 channel and it is not programmable at all, so you may run into some quirks with it.

Let me know if you have any more questions. I would love to hear how the course goes.

ORX t-six also works.

I am going to test it out next week.


The transmitter is the most expensive item of them all.
It is a bit against my feeling to buy a ready to fly hubsan and than destroy it to use the guts for a diy design.

How can I explain this to children: yes these drones are perfectly fine but we will destroy them and build new ones that might not be as good as the ones you just destroyed.
In the process of figuring out how a drone works, you will have spent a lot of time tearing it apart, burning your fingers on a soldering iron, glueing your fingers together with superglue, breaking components in the process and then end up with something that might not even fly............

The hubsan route would also rule out the interesting programming phase with cleanflight.
I guess I will need to find some cheap transmitters to bring the price to an acceptable level.

I totally understand about the hubsan hesitation, was just listing it as a cheaper option.

The cheapest option I know of is this http://amzn.to/266ai6k. Like I said, I have heard that people have gotten it to work with the Scisky. You just won't have any aux channels. Here is a RCGroups post about using it and reversing the channels. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=33744666&postcount=668.

Suuweet! One of the nicest and cleanest. Really appreciate the extra work on the upgrades - very professional approach.

I noticed that you removed the white wire from your camera when you wired it to the FPV transmitter. Does this setup work?

I removed the microphone and the white wire was the audio signal from the camera. If i were to do it again, I might keep the microphone and connect the white wire to the audio in on the vtx, I don't use headphones when i'm flying, but its nice to have audio when I DVR flights. Either way works though.

This is a great frame, had great fun with it today LOS, got the FPV gear in this evening with no troubles. Only trouble I had was with one of the motors from banggoods bottom game off and no matter how many times I tried it ended up dmaging the brushes trying to get back on and doesn't work at all now, awaiting a replacement from elsewhere. Didn't get to fly it FPV, before it broke. :-(

I have one suggestion/idea. Maybe include a top plate without the standoffs built on, this way it's easy just to use normal nylon standoffs to size. I had to trim mine down to achieve this.

Great work.

When the hole of the motor prints it, I become small.
I use Slic3r.
Is it a problem of the setting whether this is a problem of the slicers?
Please tell me the way to print beautifully and a recommended slicer.

You can try a couple of things. You can try reducing your extrusion multiplier a bit or you can scale up the model a bit. You do want the motors to be a bit snug, you can use a screw driver to spread the gap in the motor mount to help get them in.

Yep - calibrate the extrusion multiplier with a couple of quick prints to figure out the ratio to get accurate match to the model and all the holes will be a great fit.

Thank you very much

Hey punk kills. How much did this cost you to build?

For me, it was less than $100 because I already had a radio and goggles. Your mileage will vary depending on what you need to buy and what items you choose.

Comments deleted.

Hi punkkills

I just put http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1619886 it is remix of your design. I did this for smaller 3D printers, I hope you don't mind.


FPV quadro nano
by 1karcio

Nice, I don't mind at all. That must be a really small printer :D. You should change the cover image to one of the full build so people know what you made :).

Hi punkkills
Thank you very much for tip :)

Hi punk, question. I had problems with my video, very bad signal. It looks fine but when i started flying around the video got a lot of noise and even some blacks. I replaced the antenna with a cloverleaf, but the problem only got worse over time?

Right now when I place the battery everything looks fine. When I move the quad (no power to the motors) I get some noise but nothing major. As soon as i power up the video got interrupted, not much just half a second every 5 or 6 seconds. But, when I go 3/4 or full power the video goes black instant and only comes back when I throttle down.

Isnt that wierd? I used the same components as you, I use a pololu step up to get the 5v. Its connected directly to the battery.

Hey navyblueboss, that is weird. I've been thinking about this for a bit and here are some questions along with some random thoughts.

Has this happened since you added the fpv gear or has it started more recently?

You say it gets worse over time. Lifetime or battery time? Does the VTX get super hot?

What batteries do you use, what is the C rating? The same pololu that I link to? Voltage drop from high throttle could be starving the video gear maybe?

Is their noise in the signal or is it black? When you lose signal over over 3/4 throttle is it black or static? What goggles/monitor do you use? Usually black vs static can help narrow down a problem with video gear. If you get a black signal, that usually means that there is an issue with the camera, the vtx is still transmitting a black image. If you drop out to static that usually points to the VTX.

I would try to reproduce on the bench. Try with props off and see what happens. Maybe vibrations from the motors spinning up are jiggling a loose wire/connection. Double check all the solder joints. Power up the quad with the top off but video gear still connected. Can you jiggle any wires and cause the signal to black out? See if you can physically (like from touching, not electronically) isolate the fpv gear from the rest of the quad while its on the bench with motors spinning and see if this helps.

My money is on a loose connection somewhere, probably to the camera since you are cutting to black. I bet that vibrations from the motors spinning up are causing the loose connection to fail.

If you have a DVR on your goggles, I would be interested to see a video of the issue.

Thx for the reply. Here the answers to your questions:

It started after adding the video gear, there is no problem with my controller, only with the video signal/gear.

It gets worse over battery life time.

I have 300 and 500mah 20c batteries, i indeed do use the same pololu as the linked one.

The type of bad signal is a bit harder to explane. Im using a lcd screen from a car-reverse-parking-camera-thingy and when the signal gets really weak it doesnt show static but goes black.

I noticed the folowing:
When the quad is on but props are not spinging, the image is fine. When i lift the quad and shake it there is some noise and some blackscreens now and then, but only once every 20/30 shakes.

When the props are spinning i get some wierd noise, as if the image is pulled a little sideways. This is random but apears more often, lets say 2 seconds every 5 seconds. When i put more throttle to the motors, i get the same as before but now with some black screens. The more throttle the more blackscreens. At full throttle there is no image left, only black. It comes back the soon as i throttle down.

I will try to wiggle some wires this afternoon and see what happens.

Since it gets worse over the battery life time, I'm wondering if heat and/or voltage drop could be an issue. The vtx I link can get pretty hot. It needs good air flow for cooling from the props while flying. You also want to keep that heat away from the voltage regulator which is making its own heat.

Can you post a picture of your FPV electronics in your make?

Well i made some new discoveries. I splitted the power of the scisky and the video gear, so basicly I have two saparated batteries, one for each. This way there cant be a voltage drop. Guess what, no noise, no blacks, no nothing. Just an great picture.

BUT, as soon as I start flying the thing, noise all over the place. So i guess its some kind of interference between the VTX and something on the quad: the scisky or the motors. Nobody had this before??

I'll post a picture when im back from work.

I think its a decent theory about interference between the electronics and vtx. I would try to see if you can change specific things to make the problem go away. What if you put the top on backwards? If that helps maybe it could provide some clues about proximity of things. How is your antenna wired/routed? A picture of the electronics could help shake out more ideas.

I still think it could be a bad connection/solder joint in there being affected by vibrations. What happens if you spin up the motors without props on?

So tonight I had some more time to try things out. I spinned up the motors without props and two batteries (one for the video, one for the scisky) and everything looked fine. I was stunned when I put the props back on and tried again, I had a very clear picture with (almost) no noise, even less then the video you uploaded! I flew around a little while and everything worked fine.

Only thing is, flying with 2 batteries is not really comfortable. The drone is way to heavy and hard to control (even while I placed the batteries on the belly instead of the top). So, I soldered the power for the video back onto the scisky, so 1 battery powers both, and tried again. ABSOLUTE RUBBISH AGAIN, OMG! As soon as I power above 20% the drone is not flyable (when flying only on video offcourse). Above the 50% throttle there is hardly any picture left, just noise and blackouts.

So it turns out the battery cant provide enough current for both the scisky and the videogear. Wierd isnt it? Its a 500mah 25C battery... That should be enough right??

Yeah, this is weird. Can you post a picture of your setup?

Its hard to tell from the picture, but in the second link, at the vreg, it looks like the wire providing power to the camera might be pulling away from the solder pad just a bit. Does that look sold in person?

Another thought is that video signal wire. It seems pretty long and loops around the vtx and over the vtx power wires. You could try shortening that. Its kind of a long shot but should be an easy test.

How did you change from single battery to dual battery. Is there another set of wires that you desoldered to solder on a battery connector to provide power to the vreg? This seems like the only other variable in the system between using two batteries and one. If there are any wires or solder joints that were ignored in the two battery test, I would check those wires/connections . If there were wires that you bypassed, I would even try replacing those. I have had cases where the problem was a damaged wire hidden inside the insulation.

Man I hope you find something. I'm running out of ideas short of excess noise in the system. Many of my friends and myself run this same setup and don't have any noise issues.

What kind of wire could I use as an antenna

you can use some solid copper wire, probably 20-22awg

Ive built this but im having a bit of a performance issue. I seem to need a lot of throttle to hover (like 60%) and stopping it falling takes a long long time. it just feels very sluggish.
I am using smaller batteries as they are what I had from another one. My batteries are 200 and 240mAh and an unknown C rating. Im also at ~41g weight.
Do you think its the poor performance of the battery which is causing this or is there someone else amiss?

It could be a low C on the batteries, but it could also be cleanflight. Go to the CLI tab in cleanflight confgurator.

Type "get motor_pwm_rate" and hit enter. It should be set to 32000. If it is not, type "set motor_pwm_rate = 32000" and hit enter.

Then type "get max_throttle" and hit enter. It should be set to 2000. If it is not, type "set max_throttle = 2000" and hit enter.

Then type "save" to save your changes.

Please let me know if this helps fix your problem. Also, what version of cleanflight are you using?

Thanks for the suggestions, however I have done both of these as part of the build and verified they have been saved.
I am on cleanflight 1.12.1 Which I think is the latest (it was when i updated yesterday).
I have found the advert from when I bough the 240mAh battery and its advertised as 20C so I guess thats ~50% less current potentially able to be drawn vs a 25C 340mAh. Not that im sure how much current these little motors can draw.
Im not worried about buying a battery to test, just im more itching to fly it now rather than wait ages for the battery!
But I think unless anyone has any other ideas it must be the weak battery?

I had another thought, what is the min and max values for throttle that you observe in the receiver tab? You want these to be as close to 1000 - 2000 as you can get. If max is below 2000, see if you can scale these values up from your radio.

Interesting, I can say that I do feel a major difference in punch between my 35c nano-techs and 25c hubsan replacements, maybe those batteries just aren't quite enough. Your batteries are rated to deliver 4.8A vs 10.5A on the 300mah nano-techs, that's quite a difference.

Yeah even 340mAh 25C can deliver 8.5A. I think thats the issue.

As for values, I am not quite reaching 2000 even with the endpoints set at 125% (ie max) on the transmitter. Though it is around 1970 so only a fraction short.

ill report back when I have better batteries!

Yeah, those values seem too close to be causing issues. I'm going to flash back to 1.12.1 here soon (on Betaflight now). I'll let you know if i see anything funky.

This is great desing. But i have vibration problem. This problem was the living?

I got it on FPV, but dont have any serious vibrations.

Thanks for response vbalko. How can montage to flight controller board on the printing case? I'm use
screw and nut.

I used double sided foamy sticker tape

FYI, for those who haven't seen these around RCgroups, there's a new motor company kicking out awesome 8.5mm motors for reasonable prices. http://www.amazon.com/Spintech-Sidewinder-Performance-Motors-8-5x20mm/dp/B01DJJ4VQ2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00
They're much faster than the hubsan and are supposed to be as good if not better than the MMW darks. I've never used darks but I'm loving these. Especially in our micro builds! Good luck

Oh nice, I'll have to check these out. I have been curious about the dark edition motors but the price tag has always scared me away. Do you have a RCG thread link you can share?

Yeah, here's their initial post. So far I'm very impressed with these!

Awesome man, thanks for sharing here. I need to order a set of these.

They're sweet! Let me know how you like them!

This is just fantastic, thanks so much for the design.
I am having a frustrating problem: I got hold of a cheap DSMX transmitter (http://www.amazon.com/BLADE-MLP4DSM-4CH-Transmitter-2-4GHz/dp/B003EXSKY8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00) and looks like it can work. I enter the cleanflight and I can see the readings changing when I toggle the throttle, yaw etc.
However, I cannot arm the quad and motors won't spin no matter what I did. I also cannot make the motors spin with cleanflight controls. Just wondering if anyone has idea what can be the problems? Faulty micro scisky board or something?

Did you set min throttle at cleanflight? It is possible, that your tx on lowest position of throttle is still too high. So the CF didnt recognize, that throttle is at min and it do not allow you to arm.

take a look here


you are on the right track, but it is min_check not min_throttle. min_throttle is the throttle command that the FC will send to the motors/ESCs once min_check has been passed with a physical throttle stick value. The FC will not arm if the throttle stick value is above min_check.

Joshua Bardwell has a great video explaining the difference bentween min/max_check, min/max_throttle and min_command.

Thanks so much for the reply. I tried what you said but no luck. What troubles me is that I cannot even make the motors spin using the motor tab in CleanFlight. I guess I must have made some mistakes in the wiring. I will check later when I have time.

That looks like a 4 channel radio, so you will need to stick arm. You tried arming with throttle low and yaw right? Just wanted to get the basics out of the way.

Go to the receiver tab and make sure the channels move with your sticks. Note the lowest value throttle will go. I bet it is higher than 1000 maybe around 1120?
Then go to the CLI tab. Type "get min_check". That number is probably lower than your minimum throttle but it needs to be higher, the fc won't arm if the throttle is above this value. If it is lower add 20 to the lowest your throttle will go and type "set min_check = ####" where #### is the number you just came up with. If min_check is already higher than you throttle value, we'll have to keep digging.

I hope this helps, let me know what you come up with.

Hello everybody. I have recently published full build instructions for this quad on Instructables (http://bit.ly/1Xmzxuw). Let me know what you think. If you have any suggestions on how to make the build guide better, please let me know!

Is there any place to buy the antenna

You can use a solid copper wire for the antenna, or steal the inner wire from a coax cable.


Been trying to research the reasoning behind your antenna. Why cut it to quarter wavelength, also, do you need to solder the inner core to the outer shield after you cut it in order to complete the circuit and avoid the vtx burning up?

Looking forward to you post update your planning.

You know, that's a good question about the quarter wavelength. I never really questioned the why, but found it to be common practice. Here is a blog post that describes making a simple antenna and uses quarter wavelength. https://oscarliang.com/make-simple-whip-antenna-5-8ghz-linear-polo/.

You only need to use the inner part of the coax cable without the shielding. You don't want the shielding in the way that I describe and the images i show; the entire antenna is only as long as necessary for the frequency. Only if you wanted the antenna to be longer, with a tuned unshielded bit, or were using a circular polarized antenna, would want the shielded part of the antenna to be soldered to ground.

Does that answer your question?

Hello, I'm interested to build/print/assembly the quadcopter, I'm waiting for some instructions as other. I would like to ask something else instead, does someone has done a BOM with the price of every piece? I would like to have the total cost amount somehow

Full build instructions are up on Instructables.


Its hard to say an exact price, as different people will need different pieces of equipment depending on what they have and what they need. Also, the price of items can vary depending on what you choose. Your best bet is to figure out what you need and total up the cost of the items.

I am working on instructions as we speak. I want to make sure they are clear and concise, so it might be a few days. I will post back here when they are complete.

Hey I'm really looking forward to building my first quad but don't know how to do it, your parts list is awesome but maybe you could add instructions on how you build it? Thanks !

Full build instructions are up on Instructables.


I have some comprehensive instructions on the way. I will post here when they are available.

I'd look forward to something like that :)

This video should get you started, it is for a different frame but the same concepts apply.


Thanks for the part list, Micro Quadcopter is so much fun!! Check out my FPV feed https://youtu.be/5ZrzOYK58lw

Thanks for this great contribution to the community! Your part list is very helpful, however I have a question about the FPV system.

What kind of module can I use to receive the video stream and output it to a composite monitor? Are there any low cost parts similar to the transmitter that you could direct me to? I'm planning on making my own FPV headset :)

Hello Woolfie99,

You can use a standalone video receiver. I'm linking 2 options, the first a Boscam FR632, a very popular diversity receiver that uses two antennas to pick the best signal source. The second is a bare bones receiver module that will require soldering. If you go with the bare bones receiver, make sure it is compatible with the channels of your video transmitter. There are of course many other options out there.


Nice, once I'm finished up with the hovership I'm giving this a go. Thanks for your willingness to contribute to the open source network, much respect!

Thanks, it was a lot of fun to design and build :).

Hi, what type of screws do i use to secure the bottom plate to the top plate?

I use nylon machine screws and nuts. I have links in the description under "Nylon Hardware".

Okay, thanks. Im so excited to build this. Thanks for uploading it!

No problem. Post a make when you get it built :D.

Hey Guys,

I just uploaded a new v3 version of the bottom. It should be much stronger than previous versions with only ~0.2g more weight. Print one out and let me know what you think!


I feature your frame in this video, which I have just published: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=on7GzVSzEIM

Hope you like it!

All the best,

I have a radiolink at9 will that work with the Scisky board.


No, you need a dsm2 compatible radio.

Thank you what about a dx5e

Yes, I believe the dx5e should work.

Cool thank you do you have to flash the firmware before you use the board?

You don't need to flash it, It comes with cleanflight installed. You will want to configure it before flying. If you are unfamiliar with cleanflight, search for "cleanflight tutorials", there are tons of resources. I will try to find a good configuration tutorial and put it in the description.

This is my first nano quad and I love it.
I tried first to install betaflight but too much strange behavior (up and down tilt oscillations), and I found a topic where using AlienWiiF1/LuxFloat give more good results in accro mode. In angle mode there is just enough power.
Pids : http://pastebin.com/XTyJhu84

I used 5V from the scisky and no problem for now

Have you considered making the camera mount big enough to support the Quanum Elite? http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__89778__Quanum_ELITE_TX_CAMERA_COMBO_Micro_Cam_VTX_25mW_40CH_5_8GHz_NTSC_UK_Warehouse_.html?strSearch=quanum

From the dimension specs it looks like it would mean going from your 13.2 X 17.6 X 9mm to 21x19x17mm

This is my first quad build. Thanks for making it look easy.
You mentioned a few times you burned out the card somehow? How would I avoid doing that?

I was originally powering the VTx and camera from the 5v supplied by one of the two connectors near the USB cable of the Scisky. I believe that may have burned up the 5v regulator on the Scisky. To be safe, you might want to consider using a 5v step up voltage regulator and using that to power the VTx and camera from the battery.


What kind of antenna should I use? I'm kind of confused about the one named in the materials section. Also what sort of coding language is used for programming the controller/Quad-copter.

I used the inner wire from a broken FPV antenna. You can also use solid copper wire.

You don't need to be concerned with programming for the flight controller (unless you really want to). It runs open source software, either cleanflight or betaflight. It comes flashed with cleanflight. You will need to configure the software, look for tutorials on setting up cleanflight.

Thanks for the heads up. I sent a message to goodluckbuy asking them to remove it. Lets see what happens.

Not sure if this is a stupid question but how are you powering 5v to the vtx using a 3.7v battery

If you are using the Scisky, it has a 5V output.

This is what I did. I did however burn up the voltage reg on the Scisky and I suspect it may have been because I was drawing power for the FPV gear, so tread with caution. If your FPV gear uses 5v then you might want to use one of these instead.


Depends. Does your VTX have a voltage filter?


How Long is the flight time with the 380mHa battery ? About 5 min ?

I can usually get away with 4 minutes flying pretty fast.

what do you use for the transmitter?

Please read the comments, there are links to many transmitters.

Is this frame large enough to accommodate the printed circuit board inside the actual Hubsan X4 ? That way I could play around with alternative frames without having to buy new controller or transmitter. I really like the style of this frame, and have already printed it out and painted it post apocalyptic rusted metal.

Yes, it should fit the Hubsan X4 flight controller. I you haven't bought the X4 yet, make sure you get one with 8.5mm motors. I know the H017C does, and I think there is another model but I can't remember.


The one I bought was the H017L -- hope that's okay. I need to look at the motor size for that one.

EDIT: Hrmm it's looking like they might not be the same sized motors.

EDIT #2: Dang just found out they are 7mm.

Someone recommended I get that H107L .. thought they were the same size.. sigh. I always buy the wrong stuff.

EDIT #3: Should I just buy some H107C motors and use the controller that's in the H107L? Would that controller be able to handle the slightly larger motors?

Put a little guard together ... about 5g.. I will make better ones as i crash and work out what is needed .. comments welcome.


Prop guard for 75x75mm micro quad

Nice, that looks great!

You wouldn't happen to have a 7.5mm version? (have the original hubsan x4 (non-fpv) motors laying around)

Does anyone know of a micro flight controller board which either supports dsss protocol or has pwm I'm puts for a micro receiver? I really want to make one of these, but can't find a flight controller.

It might be easier to find a board that supports a PPM and get a PPM receiver. Here is a receiver (not really micro) and a brushless board that does PPM (this will not fit nicely on my frame but there is a remix that helps).


Curious, can you post your PIDs? Also, what motors are you running? I have like NO thrust. No way I could do acro. Not sure why I'm just guessing my motors suck or something.

Hey, sorry for the delay. I am running the hubsan replacement motors that I link to in the description. These are from Betaflight 2.4.1. Make sure that you:
set motor_pwm_rate = 32000
set max_throttle = 2000

Pids are:
set pid_controller = MWREWRITE
set p_pitch = 51
set i_pitch = 37
set d_pitch = 48
set p_roll = 39
set i_roll = 43
set d_roll = 35
set p_yaw = 100
set i_yaw = 50
set d_yaw = 0

I feel like D is pretty high, but I had to push it that far to get bounce back under control. I would love to see a blackbox from this little guy :P.

It is awesome, but I think it should have a better place to put the battery straps. I know rubber bands are good, but battery straps look nicer.

Is there any soldering required?

Yes, motor wires are soldered to the flight controller and all of the FPV equipment wires are soldered to their components.

Hey, I'm thinking about making this. Since it's my very first build and I don't know anything about quads, I'm not going to be using the FPV.
My question is, what do you use to charge the battery? Do I have to buy something separate for that?

What is the flight time on this build?

I get around 3-4 minutes.

Is it possible to buy a higher capacity battery to make it last longer?

What kind of plastic should be used on this print?

Good question, I should probably add it to the description. I would recommend ABS. It should be pretty durable but still rigid enough for a good tune. PLA works well but it will break more easily in a crash. I printed a few in PETG and while it held up well in crashes, the flexibility made it very hard to tune.

I have not tried in other filaments like carbon fiber or nylon so I'm not sure if those might be better. Maybe others have experience?

There are may different filament types, fortunately. I am currently using HIPS, high impact polystyrene, which prints like PLA. You need to run the head about 225C, and the buildplate around 55C. Its cheaper than ABS, and more durable than PLA. One word of caution about nylon....ok it might be a few words....is that it is hygrophobic, which I think means its likes to absorb water. So you need to keep it dry, and if its been sitting out awhile needs to be baked in a small oven at around 125 for a few hours. If not, the moisture in it makes bubbles and the extrusion will be nasty ( you can actually hear the water/air pop as the filament is extruded).
I have carbon infused, magnetic, conductive, wood filled, coffee scented, steel, and flexible to play with!!! Also some PETT, clear PET, and the nylon..of course.

Comments deleted.

Anyone know if a Beef's Brushed Board will fit nicely?

I don't think it will fit as the Beef's Brushed board is wider. This is a remixed top that helps with wider FCs.


Micro 105mm (30.5mm FC Edition)
by meoster

Hi, Nice setup, well done! Just a question if I may related to the MicroScisky integrated DSM receiver. Would it bind with a DSSS type Transmitter, by any chances?

I'm not familiar with DSSS transmitters, but if it is not DSM compatible, then I doubt it.

1) How would you bind this to an ORX T-six
2) Would the V1 bottom part fit with the V2 top?
-Sorry, I just started learning about building quadcopters.

1) If you power up the Scisky, it will go into bind mode after 10 seconds. Put the radio into bind mode and it should bind. You might need to put the antennas really close together, like almost touching.

2) Yes, all tops and bottoms are compatible.

Do you attach motors before or after you do the first bind?

Comments deleted.

What is the total cost of the parts?

Based on the parts list and the cor. links provided by the author, the total cost of parts comes to ~ $75

MicroScisky - $30.99
4 Hubsan X4 H107c 8.5mm Motors - $10.84
VTX: FX758-2 5.8G 200mW Video Transmitter - $11.16
Camera: 170 Degree Wide Angle Camera - $9.80
Hubsan X4 batteries - $3.89
Ladybird props - $5.99
JST SH Connector - $2.52

am new to the drone world what is the cheapest drone transmitters?

Try the Orange T-six Transmitter. It works with Dsm2.

I list several options that work with the FC I use in the comments below. Check out my response to pctech334.

First off,
Awesome design! Dirt cheap to build and looks fantastic! Im assuming the FC has a integrated dsm2 rx right? If so would this module work with my taranis?



Yeah, thats the module that I use.

Sweet, thanks for the reply!

what is the cost to build?

To build the copter? Without the price of the 3d printed parts and including the module for my taranis I think was roughly $105.

He list's all of the parts in the description so you could always add them up....

Just to let you know I havent built it yet...

Do you use some sort of power filter for your VTX / camera? I build a similar micro FPV set, which I put on an Eachine H8, but which absolutely needed a Pololu power filter, because otherwise the image would be full of interferences once you throttle up. Is this also needed here, or is there already some sort of power filtering integrated into the FC? Many thanks :-)

I didn't need any filtering but I have heard of others with similar setups that had excessive noise. There is a 5v regulator on the FC that should do a bit of filtering.

does anyone know of a video or a site for instructions for this build? Ps- this is my first quad copter build.

Sorry, I don't have any build logs or videos. I would imagine you could find some build logs for other builds using the same flight controller; the same principals would apply to this quad.

I just stumbled on this video that shows a build using the same flight controller. Some of the components are different but the same concepts apply. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TljzFBZR4zE

Hi I can see that you r using FX758-2 5.8G 200mW Video Transmitter in your project. Is this has also reciver? Or I need buy also reciver?
In my q250 and q450 I'm using this Boscam FPV 5.8G 8CH AV Wireless Receiver RC805 it will works with FX758-2 5.8G 200mW Video Transmitter??


It is just a transmitter, you will need a video receiver. It looks like it will work with your Boscam receiver. The banggood page lists channels that match with the receiver channels listed here: http://www.buddyrc.com/boscam-5-8g-wireless-av-receiver.html

can i get all the peases with one buy or do i need to get them from diferent places ps very nice desighn


I'm trying this as most or many people here (for the first time a quadcopter) and I read your response to pctech334 about the receiver/remote fpv and so on... but I'm just wondering if this would work as the receiver: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__83195__Fat_Shark_Raceband_5_8GHz_Module.html... that would be what I connect to the Quanum fpv googles to receive video right?

Also, the video transmitter you linked to, is an SMT, but I don't see an actual spot on the flight controller, where do you solder it to or how do you mount it all? or just like in the pictures out in the air? I also don't see where your battery is?

Thanks and sorry about the questions I just want to be sure of everything before I purchase all these "expensive" materials... prob the cheapest is the frame lol...

wait also what's the purpose of the rubber band? holding the battery on the outside? nice...

Hello, as I mention in many comments, If this is your first build, or first experience with quadcopters, I would highly recommend starting without FPV equipment. That removes an entire level of complexity from the build and startup cost.

The vRX that you link to could probably work, but it is intended for use with fat shark goggles that have a swappable module bay. You would be better off with something like http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__72733__FR632_Diversity_5_8GHz_32Ch_Auto_Scan_LCD_A_V_Receiver_EU_Warehouse_.html that would fit in the pocket on the side of the Quanum goggles.

There are many resources available for wiring up the video components. Here are a few links.

True, and thanks for your reply, I am new at quadcopter but not at flying, I am transitioning from a one shop stop (already built quadcopter) to a sourcing and learning what makes them tick... since my quadcopter is too expensive to break open, and it's not open source, I decided to ask around... seemed like you had experience in this tiny awesome looking one that's why I asked :)

This might be stupid question but what are you using to fly the quad-copter? I'm planning to make this and was wondering if you were using a phone app or an actual handheld controller.

You need a RC radio controller. Check out the comments below, I listed some options with links in a reply to pctech334.

Nice to see it get some love!

Thanks! I was surprised and excited to see the feature :D.

Yes, congrats.

I'm glad you got featured, there has been some really crap ones lately.

its bout dangety time dis got dem feature

Hello Punkkill! You helped me some time ago Well.....my parts finally came in from China. I just want to say thanks for all your help and on this fantastic little design. Finally getting the hand of FPV (a lot harder than it looks like to those wanting to build this and learn to fly a drone AND FPV, don't recommend) and having such a blast!! Can't wait to finish my MHQ2 "full size"!

Awesome! I'm glad you are having a good time with it. FPV is soooo much fun. I can't get enough :P.

It really is! I'm just glad I have 6 batteries! I have busted 3 frames today (hard landings) and always have a few extra printed. [By hard landings I mean I found some limbs 50' in the air:) ]

How kann I connect the controler to my radiocommand ?

When you power up the scisky, after 10 seconds it will enter bind mode. You can see this with a rapid flashing red LED. When the skisky is in bind mode, put your radio into bind mode to bind. You might have to get your radio antenna real close (like almost touching) to the scisky antenna to get it to bind.

Anyone know what controller this is in this screenshot I took of a youtube video? He's using it to control a cheap Cheerson CX-10.


So I guess the Cheerson CX-10 must use some sort of standard radio protocol -- anyone know what this would be?

I'd really love to get a good controller that does everything. Would be nice to not have to ever buy another as my experience with quadcopters evolves. I'd like a controller that can control this Cheerson, the DSM2 for this quadcopter thing, and well any other standards there are for even larger copters.

It looks like a Spektrum DX7s: http://www.spektrumrc.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdId=SPM7800.

The Cheerson CX-10 appears to use a proprietary protocol. Worse: the protocol changed between hardware revisions so what works with older versions of the quad won't work with new ones.

I've got a Devo 7E which I've modded to support other protocols (like for my Eachine H8 mini and my Syma X5C). It's pretty cheap, supports DSM2 with a firmware change, and virtually every other protocol with some soldering. A fair amount of manual work to get it to be a nice transmitter. If you want one transmitter that you'll never have to change again and that you don't have to do a bunch of hacking on, I continuously see the Taranis recommended. It's pricy at first, but you never will need another transmitter.

I'm just waiting on the scisky for this quad, then I'll finally get to fly it and can see what the range is like on an unupgraded Devo 7E. If it's too short I'm going to have to do the range boost, which is tricky to do correctly.

Awesome, I think I am going to get a Devo 7e.

What's tricky about doing the mod? You just put a jumper wire over the diode and solder both ends. I have a hobby lobby magnifying lamp if need be. I heard to take the diode off but why? IF you just jumper it the current flows in the path of least resistance ignoring the diode. YOu can use the ends of the diode itself to solder to no?

It's a ridiculously tiny component and if you accidentally knock off another component you wreck the transmitter. My soldering iron is really crappy and my skills with it are even worse, so I might use conductive ink instead, but I haven't found any that isn't way overpriced for the amount I need.

If you're confident with your soldering abilities I doubt you'd have many issues with the range upgrade. For me, and for people who haven't soldered much, it is indeed tricky.

Well if you mess it up you can always buy a replacement 8s module right? How much is that module?

Also what about conductive paint instead of conductive ink? And use like a 000 brush. Would it handle the current enough? I guess if enough paint?

The modules are harder to find now since they apparently aren't made anymore. The only ones I can find are about $20.

I'm not sure if conductive paint would work or not. I'm planning on getting a new soldering iron soon with a finer tip anyway, so I'll probably make the attempt when I get that and just be careful.

I'm using a multiprotocol TX module in my JR bay of Taranis (friend uses it in his 9x)
we just use two module - nrf and a7105 for controlling hubsan, cheerson and syma x5c copters (many more can be controlled)

Can I use the Cheerson CX-10 flight controller, transmitter, motors, props & battery with this design? I can get one for like $20 off ebay with free shipping.

No. The cx10 is way smaller.

Is there a way to use the transmitter i am getting with the cx-10 with this quadcopter? Can I buy another cheap flight controller that will work with the cheerson cx-10 transmitter and with the husban x4 motors?

Probably not. I don't know what kind of protocol this thing uses, but I'm sure it's not DSM. It's also only 4ch, and the radio has no options, so even if it was compatible, it would be a poor substitute for a 6ch programmable radio.

When you get a separate transmitter with dsm2/dsmx, it will work with many quads, and anything in the 250+ size you can just buy your own receiver.

So is the transmitter you went with the best bang for the buck? I can get for $100. the 9xr pro

I really do like that it is opensource as I am a programmer. I could probably add in a lot of special features to automatically control the copter in any way I see fit, in addition to what it already offers. e.g. a string of quick maneuvers.

Well I ordered the Cheerson CX-10 just now for $19.98 from California. I'll have it in 6 days. This one will get me started, then when I want a more advanced one I'll print this one and order the parts for it.

That sounds like a great way to start. The CX-10 components will not fit in this frame however, it is much smaller. If you were to buy a Hubsan x4 h107c, then you could transfer all of the components to this frame, while using the provided radio. *you need a hubsan with 8.5mm motors for this to work, some have 7mm.

Thanks. I am wondering if the controller firmware on the cx-10 would properly control the 8.5mm motors. I mean it's probably tuned for smaller props and/or motors. You think it'd work? Also would the battery included in the cx-10 be able to power the bigger motors?

It would be an interesting experiment but the firmware is tuned for 6mm motors and smaller props like you say. The battery will power the motors but not effectively or for very long. It is probably around 120mah and you want 300-500mah.

Thank you got a few more questions.

How much flight time do you get? Do you ever put a larger battery on top to get more time?

The flight controller you use, is it opensource firmware with documentation on the pins of the board? This way I could modify it and/or add subcontrollers to my liking. Does the flight controller have features like hover in one spot, ability to talk to a GPS module? perhaps track the person controlling it if they were wearing some tracking device? Was wondering if the flight controller was capable enough to handle say videoing someone riding a bike on a trail or cliffs or whatever. I'm guessing it can't do all that not for $30 and not for this size.

THis is all pretty exciting stuff, thanks again. SOrry for all the newbie questions. By they way I made one of your frames and painted it a post apocalyptic rusted metal :)

I'm starting to go through the parts list and banggood.com is scaring me. They seem really overpriced.

Battery for $1.99 on eBay (banggood.com wants $3.89)
(over 501 sold with 99.2% feedback rating)

5 to 1 charging cable for $1.29 on eBay (banggood.com $3.89)
(72 sold 98.6% feedback rating)
Can I lop off one of these connectors instead of the banggood.com one you listed?

20 props for $0.99 from eba (bangood.com wants $5.99 for 12!)

4 motors for husban x4 -- $6.10 (bangood.com wants $11 for the same thing)http://www.ebay.com/itm/4pcs-8-5mm-CW-CCW-Motor-for-Hubsan-X4-H107D-H107C-H107-A23-RC-Quadcopter-FPV-F-/141865064760?hash=item2107d11938:g:JGQAAOSwHjNV8TaJ

And so forth.. those are just a few examples. Seems like banggood.com charges twice as much as ebay sellers.

This project seems like it would be really affordable for me, buying stuff from ebay.

About the only good deal I can see from banggood.com is the flight controller for $30.. costs like $45 on ebay. Is there a way to use arduino micro and other modules instead? I can get arduino micro for like $1.50 and modules are often only 99 cents for it. Anyone know of another Husban x4 DSM2 flight controller that say costs under $10?

EDIT: After looking into it more it seems like the $30 is pretty fair since it has the gyro, motor controllers, and radio receiver built in. Those radio receiver modules for arduino are quite expensive. Found a 3 axis gyro for only $2.50 though.

i don't trust batteries from ebay/aliexpress/china - it's a hit and miss - i use batteries from hobbyking (yes i know it's from china but they do have better QA) - i order from EU warehouse to save on shipping. as fro the rest of the stuff - it's pretty much the same everywhere

Punkkills, so what do you think about the above parts list? Will that stuff work okay? It's about 1/2 the price of banggood.com. I dont' want to make a mistake and order the wrong stuff.

They sure want a lot for 12 props .. Tiny plastic items from China shouldnt cost so much .. Theyre making a killing! 5.99 ..

Anyways if i get them , i dont like thix mix of orange and black colors, can i paint the props with acrylic paint without any issues?

How many of those battery packs do I need? I notice you say you have a handful. Is just one needed at a time? How do you charge them? Do you have a charger you recommend? Thanks

Printed out the version to bottom and printing out the Pinzon clips now. As you can tell I'm using speech to text at the moment LOL

You only need one battery at a time but the batteries will only last around 4 minutes. You want more so you can keep flying :). I have 9 batteries at the moment :P, Banggood used to sell a 5 pack. I use the linked charger.


Thank you, this is really helpful :)

I am totally new to this and have nothing, no parts, no controller -- zilch :)

I decided this will be the future quadcopter I have ever flown let alone make -- suggested to me by a friend here.

Besides the list of parts in this thing's description, what else will I need? A radio controller/transmitter right? What would be the best one to get? One that I can use for any drone I might later build I guess -- but within reason with respect to cost.

ANy help greatly appreciated, thanks!

Hi JenniferG, If this is your first build, I would start without the FPV gear, you don't need the camera or vtx right away. This will allow you to get through the build more easily and will make the cost of entry less.

You will also need a radio as you suggested. I have listed options in several of the comments below, look at my response to pctech334.

Hİ. Good job.
which did you use radio for this quad?

Thanks for answer.

I have a 9XR with FrSky Module. I wonder can I use my radio with modume for it?

Thanks TECHnic. I use a Taranis radio with a DSM module. I list other radio options in the comments below.

Do you have a link to this Taranis radio and module? I'd like to see what you actually use. I know you mentioned a couple but are they even as good as the Taranis? The orange one for $60 and you mentioned another for $120. Taking a guess the Tanaris might be $200 but might be worth it?

hi punkkills, this is a fantastic nano frame!! can you upload a 7mm motors version? thanks

Thanks :). I will try to get a 7mm version up when I get some free time. Hopefully this coming weekend.

I am kind of new to this so, fpv is first person view correct? So, will I be able to view what the camera system is displaying? If so is there a controller I must buy that was not under supplies I must purchase? If so which one?

Yes, FPV is first person view. In addition to the items listed, you will need a radio for controlling the quad. If you want to fly FPV, you will also need some way to view the video feed, either goggles or a screen and a video receiver. I have listed options for both in comments below. If you are new to building quadcopters, I would recommend starting without the video gear and getting the hang of flying line of sight.

What is the total cost of the project?

This totally depends on what you have already, what you need, and how fancy you want to get. I probably spent less than $100 to get it up in the air, but I already had some batteries, charger, radio, fpv goggles, and props.

I got mine in the air and the camera system works great when running off of a separate battery, but this is not a long term solution, makes it too heavy and the quad wallows. Amazing clarity, but when I try to run the camera off of the quad battery its unusable, I've watched other peoples videos including yours, mine has NO static or breakups when on a separate battery, but when on the quads battery and even before there is enough throttle to fly the picture is unusable. I tried a 200uf cap across the camera/tx power but that barely helped at all. Any Ideas? Also the tx i have is 3.3v and the camera is 3.3-5, running the camera directly off the lipo, and the tx is after a diode for the voltage drop.

If you had a voltage regulator in the mix, it might help remove some of the noise. Can your tx handle 5v? You could try a 5v step up. Another option might be a step-up/step-down regulator closer to 3.3v.

An up and a down regulator. That would add 3 grams at least? I'll keep that in mind though. I'm going to try some stuff tomorrow.

Edit. My TX is 3.3 only

Something more like the link below, that will step up or down depending on the input voltage. I haven't used one of these, so I don't know if it will help with the noise.


Just to keep learning, which controller would you recommend for this quadcopter?
Thanks in advance!

I listed a few options in my response to pctech334 below. The hobby king model is a reasonably priced starter radio (* i don't have any experience with it). I personally use a Taranis with a dsm module. The taranis is an awesome radio, but it is a much more expensive option.


Hey man, is there a guide explaining the antenna frequency stuff? or is the antenna only for the video transmittance? cause right now I'm just trying to get the thing working haha

The antenna I talk about in the details is for the VTX. This is different than the RX antenna on the scisky, don't cut that :). Oscar Laing has a guide about making antennas and I linked a calculator in the description.



I'm getting started with this and I would appreciate so much if someone could tell me if there's a build guide somewhere so I could build the entire system correctly.
Thanks a lot for doing things like this!

Sorry, there is no build guide. You might want to start without FPV gear and get the quad running. The build is relatively simple. Solder the motors to the correct solder pads with the correct polarity and solder on a battery connector. The banggood page for the motors has details about motor rotation and polarity based on the wire colors. You might want to reference a cleanflight motor diagram for the rotation (http://forum.flitetest.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=41041&d=1424292878). Next bind your radio. The more challenging part will be configuring the flight controller. Search for "cleanflight tutorial", there are plenty of resources.

Once you are flying and comfortable with the FC configuration, you can install the fpv gear. There are many resources available for wiring a vtx and camera. Here is one http://wisdom.micro-motor-warehouse.com/hc/en-us/articles/204874665-how-to-build-a-5-8Ghz-micro-FPV-setup.

Thank you so much for your answer!

In that case I will print both upper & bottom parts (which ones would you recommend me? I see there are different posible combinations), and then build the quadcopter leaving the fpv gear for a next step.

I would go with v2 parts. The top depends on flying style, there are options for no-camera, camera pointing 12 degrees up (for fast flight) or 7 degrees down (for slow cruising).

If you are having somebody else print it, then I would have them print an extra bottom, while I tried to make it as durable as possible, we are still dealing with printed plastic, they can break. I have recently printed some frames in PETG and those seem the best so far for durability.

Ok, I'll follow your tips.
I'll have the parts printed in a few weeks. I'll say something then.

Thanks for your help!

This uses hubsan motors so would buying a hubsa. Quadcopter for $30 on Amazon and putting it into a racing frame like this and adding FPV work or does the stock motherboard not put out enough current. I know you loose the ability to custom program but I'm looking for an extremely cheap way to build 3 fpv racers. And for $30 you get the receiver motherboard the motors and most importantly the controller.

This should work. I know others have done similar. The thing that you might need to add to the list is a 5v step-up regulator to power the fpv gear. You also want to make sure you get a hubsan with 8.5mm motors. I think some versions come with 7mm.


Thank you for replying, I have a few more questions for you though. This is my first DIY quadcopter and I want to make two for my brother and I to race, I've flown quads before, just haven't built one yet, but I have a strong diy electronics background.

I'm looking at buying a Hubsan x4 h107c with the camera because it comes with the bigger 8.5 motors. And using the controller, the receiver flight controller board, and the motors. Now I noticed quite a discrepancy in weights, the Hubsan x4 weights 50G with its internal sd card camera, and yours weighs 40g with fpv tx and camera, is your frame just that much lighter? There is no way the Hubsan flight controller is that heavy, its not any bigger than what you used.

Also I'm looking at using a Boscam TX5823 200mW it is rated for 3.3v and the camera I'm looking at is rated for 3.3 to 5v I should be able to run these directly off the pack without getting a 5v booster like you suggested right?

I just weighed my h107c and it is 38g without the battery. Maybe the 50g is with battery? We are right in the same ballpark when you consider the camera gear. I would imagine the FC weighs about the same. I don't think you will have any problems, in fact I know other people have built with the hubsan FC.

I'm not sure how the fpv gear will react to battery voltage, it might just work. I looked at that vtx for this build, but I can't remember if there was a reason I didn't go with it. Keep in mind that battery voltage can fluctuate from as low as 3.1v to 4.2v. I'm sure if you did some searching you could find people with 1S builds using that vtx and can see if a regulator is required.

Ok thanks, Most people using the vtx directly off the 1s said to just put a 200uF or larger cap across the power lines to smooth out the static from the motors, I may try to find an itty bitty ferrite bead in my shop and put that on too to block the motor static.
Thanks I think I am ready to build now, I will definitely post in the made it section once I finish it!

Awesome, can't wait to see it :D.

I wanted to know whether you can make this drone using an Arduino board instead?

really nice job. super pilot skills especially for how small and fast it is! so is it hard to program the fc? is there a program or firmware to download or special flash tool? then i see you're flying it in acro mode so im assuming it has a stable mode also? i want to get started on one, thanks for sharing this quad! the only thing i would want different is a better bigger camera transmitter. hope you compete in the fpv races this summer!

Thanks tommy! The FC is not terribly difficult to configure, but there is a bit of a learning curve. The flight controller runs opensource firmware and you flash it with the Cleanflight configuration tool using the usb port on the Scisky. The FC comes pre loaded with cleanflight but I run betaflight, the "bleeding edge" sibling.

I do fly in acro, but cleanflight also has self leveling modes. The FC does come with an older version of cleanflight installed. Search for "cleanflight tutorial" or "cleanflight setup" and you will find many videos and blogs that explain the basics. There are tons of resources out there. Here is a video showing the setup of flight mode swithces: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gMuKqIKRtdU.

I am just having so much fun with this machine! Thanks for making it.

Since I now have a box of parts from banggood, I want to get more experimental and try another design. You know what would be really cool? A V4 version (as in v-tail with 4 motors, not version 4). The only thing is, I'm not sure how to make it, because the really nice thing about this quadcopter is that everything is in the "easy" print category.

Do you or @mojobromley have any thoughts/ideas on how to do that?

Thanks! I'm glad you like it. I have never experimented with v or a tail frames, so I'm not really sure of the requirements. Would it be possible to experiment with a design with the current frame and some heat to bend the rear motor mounts?

I don't have any experience with them either :) . I glean that you just want the rear two as close as possible, and the front two at 120 deg from each other. The "A" style is supposedly better with yaw control, because the thrust is assisted with the rotation, but the V looks cooler, which is sort of the point.

The naze software has a builtin configuration for vtail. From what I can glean from reading rcgroups, it looks like the angle is more about compromise between lift and yaw. Although I haven't done the math, but I'm guessing the configuration in naze would be better at a single angle.

What did you use to make this design? Are there openscad files you can share?

My kids are going to love it!

I made a pin and clip to replace the screws and nuts you recommended because i found them to expensive. Maby you like it or want to put it in your description as alternative for the screws:


Screw replacement for Punkkills Micro 105 FPV Quadcopter

Those look great! I added a link in the description.

Thank you sir. Love your design.

Thanks for sharing your make! I'm glad you like it :D.

I'm digging and digging on the forums (newb here) but what is recommended for Transmitters? Can't even find wiring diagrams. Probably making this far more difficult than it is. Just needs to be DSM2 compatible?

Yeah, you need a DSM2 compatible radio. In my response to pctech334 below, I list a few radio options.

There is not a lot of official infomation about the FC. Oversky, which I link below, has some. There is a lot of unofficial information in the RC groups forum. The interesting parts of the board are the solder pads for motors and battery, and usb connection for configuring cleanflight/betaflight. I use one of the other on board connectors for powering FPV gear as those put out a regulated 5v.


Wow, I'm so sorry. I honestly looked on here and tried researching a little on forums and apparently I'm blind. Greatly appreciate the quick reply. I look forward to giving this one a try!

Oh, no worries. Post a make when you have it together :D.

Definitely will. :) What firmware are you running?

I'm running betaflight. I think I'm on version 2.1.6 now but I need to upgrade. betaflight moves fast :P.

Are you doing anything to secure the motors, or just friction fitting them?

I found that when printing in PLA, they would be tight at first, but over time would become a bit looser. I suspect this might be from the PLA becoming soft from heat from the motors. I ended up putting a small amount of electrical style tape (I have some thinner rolls) around the bottom of the motors. I would cut a small piece and wrap under the bottom cap and up the sides. I then would trim off the extra tape sticking up over the motor mounts once fitted. That helps hold them in place and you might even need to use a screw driver to open up the slot a bit when fitting them.

I just loaded up a roll of PETG and am curious how the fit is. I did consider closing up the mounts a bit, but different printers will have different tolerances and others have reported that the fit was tight as is.

Cool, thanks! I had the frame printed by a few different services, the one from Shapeways that was polished easily fit the motors with a little bit of force, the ones from local printers on 3DHubs I had to sand down the inside of the motor mounts a bit to get them to fit at all, but in both cases I've wondered how they'll hold up over time. I've used some heatshrink on the outside of the motor and mount like the 3DFly on one of them, I'm going to see how that holds up before trying some other methods. The heatshrink added about 0.65g.

I'm curious, I haven't gotten mine to that point, but wondering if maybe zip ties to pinch the mounts would solve this? I printed at 105% flow so my fit is very tight right now, Some cheap zip ties wouldn't add hardly any weight to the drone. Just a thought.

I am going to use this as my first quadcopter. Have been creating hobbyking and banggood carts for over 12hours now and still incomplete. I will use as identical parts as possible. Does those Ladybird propellers contain caps, or should those be ordered separately? Or is it so that no separate caps are needed?

No separate cap is needed. The props are push fit onto the motor shafts. It might make things less intimidating (and cheaper!) if you hold off on the fpv gear for your initial build. There will still be plenty to learn and the fpv stuff can alays be added later.

Thanks! You are very active here and supportive for newbies, I have noticed. What you mentioned is actually something I have been wondering basing on your earlier comment: do you really think it is easier to learn RC without FPV gear? I mean, wouldn't it be easier to fly when right and left are really those, and not reversed when you fly back? That is something I have always considered problematic in RC, but with FPV stuff I though that would be no issue. Kinda like all racing, flying and FPS games I have been playing my whole life ;). I do understand that basic controls and maneuvers needs to be learnt first, and for that short range (indoor) practicing is enough. And for that I won't need FPV stuff.

If you are newer to rc in general, I would definitely start without the fpv gear. You will be learning a lot of new things, like setting up your radio and flight controller and learning to fly a multirotor. Throwing fpv into the mix is another layer of complexity, with more stuff to learn and more than twice the upfront cost.

You are correct about fpv being easier with respect to orientation but, like you say, that is after you learn the basics of flying like being able to maintain a tail in hover and simple line of sight maneuvers. I would not strap on the fpv goggles for your first rc flight :P. I have recently been learning line of sight acro flying on another micro I have. It is very rewarding to to flips and rolls inside the house flying in any orientation :D.

would you mind if I created a snap on piece to this to make it shoot airsoft pellets?

I finally got my parts in the shop today, and I'm going to pick them up monday. since this is my first fpv quad, i wondering if anyone could tell me what remote control and fpv goggles to buy that work with this transmitter? or is their a certain channel i have to be on? this stuff is all brand new to me so any advice would be appreciated. thanks

hi jonthebuilder. In my reply to pctech334 below, I listed some options for radio and goggles.

Could somebody in Germany or EU print the V2 cam version and sell it to me? Would love to have it in black/orange like in the photo.

Check 3dhubs.com ... you will find someone who prints it.in your city

Hey great design! I'm looking forward to building a micro and this frame (and parts list!) seems to be great for me. One problem I saw with the Scisky and my setup is that I'm using a FlySky FS-i6 like already mentioned in this thread. I think it would get too expensive for me if I need to buy a new radio, so I'm thinking about stripping its iA6b receiver, which weighs in at 14g. Let's say I could bring it down to half this weight, would this micro be able to carry it?

Comments deleted.

Thanks timmmmmmmm :). You don't really want to add any more weight than you have to. 7g would be quite a bit extra for this little guy. I can tell a huge difference in thrust when removing my fpv gear and that is removing ~5g. Since the Scisky has a built in RX, I'm not sure how easy it would be to use a separate RX along with it. This is something that you might want to look into.