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Lyman Filament Extruder V6

by hlyman Dec 14, 2015
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You mention the SSR but only give the Prefix, is it a FOTEK SSR-25 AA, DA, DD and so on. I cant make it out from the photo. Judging by the schematics I would say the "DA" is this correct?

Hello sir!
I have twin screw extruder so I'm going to built the winder part but how can I protect the diameter?
Actually, how can I set up the speed settings in order to produce constant diameter filament?


Is this extruder capable of using reclaimed supports and waste prints to create new filiment?

Mr. Lyman says it's possible, but he never tried. I believe that any plastic that melts up to the hot end temperature can be used, but the particles must be small to get into the tube

Does anyone know the approximate cost to make this machine? I was looking to make it or purchase a filastruder machine.

The files list includes a document with a BOM and approximated prices with a total of ~$240

I'm not seeing the auger bit on Philabot site. Did they discontinue this part? Is there an alternative auger bit that will work?

Hi there,
Does anybody know how much filament is used to print this machine?
Many thanks.


I was just wondering will angear Motor with 30-40kgcm be strong enough? The needed torque shouldn’t be to high or am I wrong?

Thanks !

I would also be very interested in hearing the answer to this.

Is there a differance in wiring diagram of V1 and v6 ?
How much time does the heater take to heat up?

Comments deleted.

Is the speed the filament comes out of the nozzle when it melts easily adjustable? Do you think one of these could be setup for a injection molder?

I could probably do that tuning a 3d printer to manually extrude as well though.

dear sir hlyman
i am taiwan student and i aspire to make a filament extruder.
i very like your product and i want your program.
may you give me your arduino firmware and program
thanks for your time.
yours sincerely

The V6 Extruder does not use firmware.

First of all, thankyou very much for share this design, its a long time I´m following your projects and studying your work on filament extruders, and I learnt a LOT !!! Priceless information.Thankyou Thankyou Thankyou from Brazil.
I´m beginning to build one of this filament extruder, And I have a doubt : I cant find 110 or 127 V Termocouplers, here they are all 220V. Which changes should I make to use a 220V thermocoupler ?
Cheers and happy 2018 !

It may be possible to use an AC Resistor inline.

You are AWESOME ! Thanks for sharing this design, im so poor that i cant afford the top shelf filaments like the flexible ones or composite laced like aluminum, bronze, copper, wood etc

So this is giving power to the people to become fully stand alone self-sufficient 3D Printer ! thats the dream anyways haha

You are truly BRILLIANT - keep up the amazing and very very inspiring work !!

Dear sir Hlyman,
I am an architecture student in Greece and I aspire to make a filament extruder.I have seen all the previous versions and I really admire your work!Which version do you suggest me to make regarding that I need something easy or cheap to start with?
Thanks for your time.
Yours sincerely,

The V6 is the easiest and the cheapest to make.

Would you be interested in putting all the mechanical parts relating to your extruder in a kit form
sending it to me, and I will print all the 3d parts required. I will then assemble the project and
offer it for sale on eBay.
If you are interested in this offer, contact me privately.

I am sorry, I don't have the time. You are welcome to market it. I would be happy to receive a small royalty.

Try Zorro dot com. Band Heater, 1 In. W, 900 Deg F, 120V

I know you're not providing tech support for this device. I am compelled to ask, however, what are the specifications of the power supply? I am having a hard time finding the exact kind you have used in your photos, outside of generic ebay listings. I am trying to build this extruder exactly as you have here as the way you have done obviously works just fine and I don't want to start substituting parts when I'm not sure what specs they need to have.

Comments deleted.

The Power Supply should have at least 10 amp and the correct voltage and fit the box.

Hello! Sorry to bother you again. I tried to suss out what size heater band you've used here and managed to buy the completely wrong type! Do you have a part number, or specifications to the style you have used? The one i have looks like it fits a 2 inch pipe unfortunately. I tried to pull up specifications for the 1/2" pipe coupler and managed to order a completely wrong part. I'd like to know what i should be looking for.

Excellent, thank you. I think I can figure out the rest!

Do you use the same pull roll system like in v5 with the urethane rollers? Or did you switch to something else with v6? Can't find anything in the manual for v6 and have a hard time sourcing urethane rollers in germany (trying to build v5).

Very very nice. Thank you so much for sharing.

A few hours ago I started to think about doing a filament extruder, after watching the horizontal assemblies I thought why not do it vertically like a fibre optics extruder? And here you have it.

On that idea I thought that the heat from the hot area could rise and cause issues with the pellets above in the screw. A heat break and a heatsink like on a 3d printer extruder would be the obvious answer.

So, I have to ask you, have you had issues with the heat rising or it just dissipates and causes no harm?

Maybe this can be controlled with the feeding screw and pipe length...

Once again, thank you very much for posting! I´ll surely build one.

I have had no problem with the heat building up. The barrel does get hot and the pellets start softening up the barrel. I have extruded several hundred pounds in V6 model. However I have not yet been able to extrude PLA and probably won't with the price now reasonable.

Hello there!
What size of drill bit do you use to drill the hole into the cap?
Do you use the exact size of the wanted filament diameter, or do you go bigger to compensate for pull?

I start with a drill bit that is smaller than needed and test it for the diameter I wish. Then I increase the bit diameter till I hit the target.
For a 1.75mm filament diameter I start with a 1.25mm bit.

I wonder if you can drill two holes, a double extruder, to make two rolls at once.

Lyman, thank you so much for your contribuitions! Keep up the good work. Very clever design of filament winding speed!
Thank you


Thank you for creating this, it looks very interesting.

Do you think it can be easily adapted to a higher throughput?
I am thinking about leaving out the Filament stage, and go from the melted plastic to the printer itselve (with a 2 or 3mm nozzle though, for a homemade big volume printer)

Anything is worth a try. You will need to check the tolerance.

nice!Thank you very much Mr Lyman. i am a student in china,but in china , the Metal fittings i can not find it. Can I buy one Complete machine from you? i really want one. thanks.

I do not make machines for sale.
If you wish to make a list of the metal fittings you need I will see if I can obtain them for you.

Thanks, Grandpa Lyman.
i am trying find something that the substitute product of metal fittings now.
i am so sorry that i reply you so late.
thank you , lyman ,i am your fans.

Grandpa Lyman , thank you.

Hey, good job, congratulations. Information please. Which heating nozzles you use? A link to ebay, please? How many heating Watts? Thank you Peter

Zoro Tools. Zoro #: G1897743 i" 120V heat band

Thanks Lyman. I will be retiring soon and need a hobby and have selected 3D printing. I've looked at your extruder / rewinder and would like to say....great work. I worked as a process engineer for 13 years making wire and this is excellent engineering. I'm about to order a low end printer as much of the fun, I believe, will be modifying the printer. Then I hope to move on to building this once the printer is squared and printing correctly. I would ask a question. We always purchased screws that, while hardened, were softer than the barrels. Of course these steel nipples are in no way hardened. How long does your screw / barrel last before you replace them or is that actually an issue with just melting ABS?

Regardless excellent job!


Thank you for the reply. Exactly what I wanted to know.

Again thanks for your design work.

hi, mr lyman!

sorry for my ignorance, but what the big deal with PLA extruding?

I have only tried extruding PLA a couple of times without success. It will probably take a lot of time to figure out the right temp and speed.

thank you, master!
happy xmas!

Hi there. I just wanted to thank you for sharing your project. I am about to build en extruder for polymer powder waste material myself and your instructions are very helpful. I could not get hold of the mentioned motor, auger drill and pipes, so I will probably have to redesign a few things.

hello !
i strat to make one !
for make a 1,75mm filament what diameter are the brass nozzle ?
1,75mm or less ?
thanks a lot

Thank you for your hard work getting this here in a format we can use with great instructions! It has inspired me to try to make one of my own.

I am in the middle of building one of these right now. I had trouble with ABS curl on the housings, so I pretty much redesigned the whole housing to tie two of the 1/2" pipe flanges together with 1/4"x20 threaded rod. The motor is mounted externally and separately now and there is a small thrust bearing and a 1/2" split collar to control endplay. A second upper wall separates the hopper section from the bearing section and three bushings run through the three walls.

Since mine is now held together with tie rods, it could be skinned with any available material. I used a chunk of aluminum furnace insulation cover I had lying around and screwed it on with small self tapping screws. I'm hoping to have it done in a few weeks.

I have yet to buy the materials for the electronics, but I'm going to start with the Lyman box I've already printed and see if that works well for my application. I have STL files for the redesigned hopper, but I want to get it working before I post it. I want to try to use a simpler thermostat and try eliminate or replace the 24v power supply.

Again, thank you for all of your hard work!


After my first try to make some filament, I´ve the problem that my filament comes out with gas inside, is expands very big after it leaves the nozzle, though I have a hole in the pipe at the top for gas removing. Is my temperature to low/high? Are there any suggestions?

Thank you

sorry for the dumb question, but i just cannot understand how does one fit a 5/8" Auger bit into a 1/2" threaded pipe.
Thank you

never mind, i just realised that 1/2 is not the diameter.

Hi, does it extrude 1.75 filament too?

Hello, Quick question- What wattage is the band heater that you used? Thanks.

Hey Hugh. I was wondering how you color your filament?

Hi, it's been over 8 months since you asked this, if you didn't found an answer for that question then this page may help you :) http://deltaprinter.co.za/filamentcolour/index.html

I have all the hardware and vitamins for your Lyman V5 design, is it possible for me to build the V6 from these parts ? Or at the very least be able to use most of the parts i have on hand. If not I will go ahead with my V5 design.

The V6 is simpler as it does not use stepper motors and a Arduino board, but only one direct drive DC gear motor. You might configure the V5 for vertical mounting and use the spool wind up with the loop control in V6 to achieve better tolerance. If you do, you will need play with the nozzle hole diameter to obtain the correct filament diameter.

I have changed the Creative Commons Attributions to Share Alike


may you can help me again. Could you give me some further information about the heat band? Is it 120V or 240V, and it´s 1" right?
Furthermore, why are you using an air fan? Do do you know the air flow of the fan?

Thank you very much for helping me at my work process.

The heat band I used is 110V, 1" ID. Mine had to be stretch a little to fit the 1" black iron coupler.
The fan is optional. I do not use it now. It can control the diameter of the filament as the filament expands as it exits the nozzle then stretches as it falls to the floor. I now only control the filament diameter using the temperature control PID.

could this be used to recycle failed prints?

No, it only extrudes filament. You would need ha eavy crusher to recycle failed parts.

Hello Lyman,
nice work. I am not sure if I unterstand the dimensions oft your .pdf file right. What system is it, when you write for instance 11-3/8" or 1/4" (is it inch or mm/cm, i don´t know).

Thanks for helping.

If the dimension has " sign it is inches. So I did use both " and mm.

have you extruded any PET (water bottles)? If not, do you think it will work?

I have not extruded anything but ABS so I don't know if it will work. I have not yet been able to extrude PLA with the pellets that I have. But I am still trying.

I have been following your project and was also investigating the subject with my similar construction extruder (auger drill, one heater on die with Proportional–Integral–Derivative controllers) . My main objective being PLA extrusion.
Though I have managed to make a spool of material using which I have made a few prints (for example http://www.thingiverse.com/make:202028 and http://www.thingiverse.com/make:190008 ) I have learned that PLA due to different viscosity and cooling characteristics will not extrude well with extruder of such simplified construction. First of all it certainly needs better (better mixed and more homogenous) melt than a simple auger drill and external heater can provide, and needs specific cooling. Cooling apparently has to be gradual in accordance to a certain "cooling curve" (ABS is more tolerant to the above things but unfortunately I can't stand the smell of ABS :). Too fast cooling shall produce bubbles and consequently bad shape of the extrudate, while too slow cooling makes it very hard to control the thickness within decent tolerance due to too long natural cooling time of the PLA. Therefore I am now in process of acquiring a good bi-metalic pair of extrusion screw/barrel (screw should be from a metal which provides slippage against pellets while barrel vice-versa should have higher friction to the resin). Also as 70% of heating in the case of the changing diameter screw should come from inter-pellet friction rather than from external heating, the motor and gear mechanism should be much more powerful. Then ... the cooling part - probably the easiest would be a dual temperature water bath cooler.

Case for an Arduino compatible geiger counter.
by glassy
E-Z Tear - Cling Film Tearing Tool
by glassy

@hlyman: Hi Mr. Lyman.

I am looking at the BOM for V6 and the one thing that is sticking a bit is the torque rating of the DONGZHENG motor. It's huge!

Do we really need 173kg-cm?? It makes the motor (and the whole extruder) very expensive. [Especially as shipping and currency exchange makes it AUD$190 for me if I buy it from Phidgets, which seems to be the only/best place to get it].
The Filastruder only takes a 30kg-cm motor and there are plenty of 50-to-120kg.cm motors on eBay that look like affordable alternatives.

Can you or anyone else please comment regarding the motor requirements?

Many thanks in advance. Keep up the good work!

Where are you seeing 30kg-cm for Filastruder? 30Nm, maybe...

The BOM motor listed is large. I have also used the next one down which is 25 rpm motor but only a few dollars cheaper. You can use any motor you wish, but you may have to adjust the Hopper Part B.stl for a proper fit. If requested I will upload the DXF file for the Hopper. Use ABS filament for the Hopper, I tried PLA with high heat plates each side of the bushing and it only lasted 19 minutes as the PLA still softened and distorted. The ABS pellets I use are very high temp. The temp in my V1 printer requires a temp of 275° C and my V2 printer temp is 280° C to print with my extruded filament which is extruded at 210° C.

Thanks very much! I'm looking at reasonable alternatives, even if they are a little slower. 120kg-cm will probably do the job.

Good on the ABS comment: I'll just work with ABS everywhere. But it's probably still a good idea to place an airflow fan or two around the motor and any other hot spots to stop the printed parts from melting ;-)

Wondering if anyone can help! i finally built the extruder to spec(without the voltage regulator wiring) but after a few minutes the coupler sheers at the motor end. I have gone through three couplers already. I am using virgin ABS pellets as well. Any help I would be grateful!

Try increasing the perimeters and the infill. 3 perimeters and 90% infill.

Lyman Good afternoon, you could tell which part name which cuts the filament in the video that puts the drill? Thanks,

What is the mininum requirement of motor torque ?

As Mr.Layman stated that he will ""not furnishing any tech support for modifications".
many people mention the use of windshield motor....
I suggest you to lock for the comments in the previous versions of Lyman extruder you will master most of the parts...

hi all, happy new year!

Congrats Mr Lyman, another extruder better every time..

if you see that there is little torque, you can use a gear set like ''Herringbone gear set '' http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6544 .
I used one like this when i made my extruder, and my motor had poor torque to low RPMs.
.. see http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:951240

Parametric Herringbone Gear Set for Stepper Extruders
by Cos

Very cool, what motor did you end up using? I finally got all the parts printed but nothing else. I will def. be looking into this.

Happy New Year! Quick question, is the Mypin TA4 an SNR or RNR model? Thanks

Thanks! Of course I ordered the wrong one. Guess I'll have a spare.

i began to extrude abs but it's the same result with pla or abs fr +-0.3mm
i think to drill my nozzle with 3 holes * 1.70mm to drop the pressure!!
for Crazyshakespeare
doesn't work
it is very small gearbox ,don't buy it

Have everything ordered but the motor. 3D printing will complete in a few more days. Have been looking forward to this version for quite some time. Pretty excited. Thanks for sharing Mr. Lyman. I, like most, probably got the horse way ahead of the cart here lol, but has anyone found a good source for ABS pellets? Any recommendations for this setup? I had a goldmine for a source up until recently as Sabic had a plant less than 15 miles away that my brother worked at. They have since shut down. Thanks!

The cheapest place I have seen is eBay. A lot of the time it's free shipping too. Let us know what motor you get, and any other places you were able to cut costs.

Can I use AC motor? and AC heater? may be I have to change electrical connections but I can get the following advantage:

1- they are available locally.
2- Cheaper price / Horse power.
3- No need for power supply


If you wish to make the extruder you can modify it however you wish, however I am not furnishing any tech support for modifications.

Thanks Mr.Lyman, I will try to report the results...

If anyone is looking for a 3" tube to use for a horizontal mount, and have had trouble finding it online in quantities less than 25, try your local UPS store. They have 3" x 24" tubes for under $8.

hi hugh
i meet some problem during extrusion may be you could help me ,please?
I am unable to ensure a constant extrusion diameter,I obtain a variation of about 0.3 mm.

Is this variation due to an excessive pressure in the nozzle.What do you think?


Can't help you there. My 3 extruders all extrude with about .06 +/- mm. I am only extruding ABS as I haven't figured out how to extrude PLA. Still working on it.

Absolutely amazed at the evolution of your Extruder. I'm new to the 3D printing world and I'm looking to finally build v6 of your Extruder. My question is...is there a cheaper alternative to the $76 DC gear motor on phidgets? eBay list a 12v 15 rpm wheel chair motor, would that work? I know the 3D housing would need to be modified but are there any other modifications to the 24v system needed if it would work? Trying to save money where I can!


Thank you for your time!

It may work if it has the near same torque using a 12V power supply.

Thanks for the quick reply. I apologize in advance for the novice questions....it states Rated torque: 5.5kg.cm....would that work?....Also, if i switch to the 12v power supply what wattage do you recommend and would this change any of the other electronics in the BOM? Thanks again for your help and all you do for the community!

Looks like the ebay motor is way under for torque.

This is the Phidgets model;
The 3274 is a 24 volt gear motor, generating 173 Kg-cm of torque at 15 RPM. It's a large motor that provides an amazing amount of torque.

I have one extruder using the next size smaller motor from Phidgets which is 25rpm and it is working fine.

Thank you for the help! Any cheaper alternative you might suggest, I'm all ears.....Thanks again for your reply!

If you wish to make the extruder you can modify it however you wish, however I am not furnishing any tech support for modifications.

Comments deleted.

i saw them ,but i would like to see the new hooper in action (the square hooper,not the cylindric)

Sorry my friend, what you see is all your going to get. It's all the same.

hi hugh
have you got a video to see the extruder v6 in action with an other music ,please?
now i extrude abs filament it's more easy like pla

Comments deleted.

There are two videos under the Tab "Thing Details"

How did you make the nozzle? I found Fastenal Part No. (SKU): 440015-131280 but there is no hole in it. Which one did you find with a hole in it? What size hole? How big would you need to extrude 1.75mm fillament?

You will need to drill a hole in the brass plug. For 1.75mm start with a #54 drill bit and test it, if too thin ream the hole with the next size larger bit #53 and so on. I counter sink the inside (intake) to a 1/2" diameter and dress the outside (exhaust) by hand so there are no burrs on at the hole edge. Then I clean it good with a pipe cleaner.