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Assassin's Creed Hidden Blade

by joshuarkendrick Dec 17, 2015
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uhm, how to make the other slide lock mirrored

How do you ride? no assembly instructions

Some pieces are very small and it can not works correctly, i print all pices and it doesnt works

Comments deleted.

can you upoad a tutorial how to buid this?

HI .
I cannot find stl for left slider

It says in the notes section in print settings to print the slider 2 times, once normal and once mirrored.

How long is the blade of this print?

The total blade length is 192.5mm from heel to tip. Hope that helps.

What springs are you guys using for the spring locks? Any other things that would work just as well?

I was special ordering higher tension springs for mine, but a pen spring also works. Just cut it to length.

Really liking the looks of this piece Josh. First attempt will be a PLA build for familiarizing, and that's the only filament I have right now, plus I think it will hold well. That and it should give me a basis for how to assemble and make the item, as well as cosplay use for nerding out, ya know. What's the status on the instructions? It looks like all the PDF's were in the download.

Hi, this is a great model but I can ant seem to find the instructions, please help.

I unfortunately haven't been able to compile an instruction page for this model. I will try to finish the instructions as soon as possible. Thank you for your patience.

Thank you, I'll wait as long as it takes. :)

How much filament in meters does this exactly need?
I want to make a business with the prints I make.

Unfortunately you can't print any of my designs for sale for profit. You can print as many as you want for your personal use. The filament would be calculated in cura at time of printing.

hi i have a question, i cant seem to figure out where does the slide stop goes and how its working it doesnt apear in your instractions (sorry if i had any grammer mistakes or anything english is not my first language)

Hey love the design printed it last night. If you Don't mind me suggesting, I think it would be cool if you have the screws go in on the side that presses against the forearm and countersink them for a smooth flush look on the font (outward facing side). you could uses screws similar to this style(but the right size)http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M4-4mm-A2-Stainless-Steel-Socket-Cap-Screw-Allen-Key-Bolts-/160716990903 the small head should fit nicely in the parts as sized now. you would just need to flip the screw holes and add countersinks and possible make the screws not go all the way though the cover plate and gear cover.

Your thoughts?
and thanks for the great print.

If I remember correctly, I uploaded the original files so that they could be customized and edited. If you want to give it a shot, go for it. I unfortunately don't have the time to edit the files at this time. I can only offer suggestions for now. Good idea though and good luck.

Hey, awesome model.

just printed out everything and trying some things with test springs before buying better ones.

i had one question, the springs betweet the housing and the flaps press really hard against the knife. is that normal ?

thanks in advanced!!

It is normal. If the spring pressure isn't high enough, then the locking flap might not fully engage and therefore the slide won't build linear pressure to extend or retract the blade.

Hello Joshua!

Thanks so much for all your work on this. I have been on the road of making a real hidden blade for many years now, and yours is the best real one I have seen so far, if it indeed works. As a blacksmith, I tried making all the parts myself but could not get the tight tolerances making all the parts by hand. I have made 3d printed ones, but it's not the same.

Do you have any idea when you will have the final design up? I am very curious about your coming video and instructions. I love the attention to detail you have put in so far, and would just like to encourage you in continuing to make the first real hidden blade I think anyone has ever made, copying the game in aesthetic and function.

Thanks so much, and godspeed! :)

Hi, I have a question, the files that you provide are ready for printing on a 3D printer for ABS Plastic?

Yes they have been adapted for 3D printing. They are actually designed for a CNC mill, but some portions were changed slightly for easier printing. I am still working on an assembly instruction pdf. Hopefully I can have it done sooner than later.

Hey, can you maybe upload an assembly file to the google drive?

Is there an easy way to solve the friction the front flapper causes?

While I haven't had a chance to upload the detail assembly instructions, I would suggest a liberal amount of white lithium chain lube. Solves most friction and binding issues. Also, if the part feel rough, you can reprint with a smaller layer height, ie, about 0.1mm

the latest uploads files "ipt" to Google Drive, have stopped working.
Those who have hung on March 1.
Regards my friend.

Google Drive seems to be working just fine. I'm not sure what issue you are having then.

I have never been able to complete the instructions. But the extension spring goes between the slide locks. You need to use a medium to large paper clip to form a small hook. Drill a corresponding hole in the center of the end of the slide locks. Secure in place with either super glue or two part epoxy.

Do you need both the 9435K11 compression spring and the 9657K257 compression spring, or just 1 or the other?

You do actually need both. The stronger of the two is for the flapper to hold and lock the blade. The weaker on is for the gear ring. Hope that helps.

Also, is it the extension spring that goes in between the slide locks, or did one of the compression springs somehow magically get extra long

Hi, I think your design contains two flaws.
The first is that the "Slide lock", not what hold the resistive spring.
And secondly, also referring to the "Slide lock", you only have designed one. Who use your design to print in 3d, or use a CNC machine, you have to design the same piece in reverse, because they used to use in both directions. So, if someone has no knowledge of 3D design, print your Hidden Blade, you will give headaches.
Perhaps I'm wrong with this reasoning, so, yeah so, let me know. I do not mean that your work is bad, or want to insult you, but I think that those are two flaws that must be corrected, thank you, and forgive the inconvenience.

If you will refer to the directions, it is stated in the notes to print one slide lock then mirror the same file. Then print it again. I have include the original files, so if there is something you feel needs to be changed, go for it. I work full time and go to college full time, so time really is in short supply these days. And don't worry about offending me, I have thick skin, so no worries. Hope that helps.

Sorry, it seems that the translator of Google, wants to laugh at me. He says that I want to insult you. But it's the opposite, I DO NOT WANT to insult.
It's a great fucking not speaking English, and use this damn machine.

P.S. When you have time, it includes a hook on that piece, to hold the torsion spring.
Thanks again.

Did you print this yourself and does this work??

I have printed it and it does work, mostly. Because it is designed for a CNC machine and was only adapted for 3D printing, it sometimes has a tendency to bind.

does this use any of the same parts from the other one? http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:801162 I printed it and i could never get it to work, but it would be great if i didnt have to pay for parts that were the same twice. They look identical. the blade the base the cover etc...

Assassin's Creed Hidden Blade (Dual Action)
by PiggyJJ

The additional piece that you are referring to isn't required because of the spring pressure provided by the metal springs. It would be required if you used rubber bands. The assembly has enough back pressure to prevent any back rotation.

You may share the original files ?.
Thank you.

im sorry if im wrong and dissrespectful but. didnt imdeepain design this? im sorry if i offend.

While I drew inspiration from several places, this design is my own. I take no offense from your comments.

Dude this is amazing!!!
But when I downloaded it certain files can't be read(cover plate,all gear covers,gear pull idle ring)

Thanks. I just have to find time to finish the video so that others can also enjoy it.

Can you try to upload a picture?
And can you upload the other slide lock because it is not identical

When do you think the instructions video will be up?

Hopefully this weekend.

hiii!!!! i would like to know if this hidden blade work please? :)
And i notice the second "slide lock" doesn't here.

The second Slide Lock is only a mirror of the other. Import the Slide Lock into your slicer or program of your choice and mirror the resulting object, then print. And yes, this blade actually works. I am currently working on a instructional video on how to assemble and a video of the blade as it actually functions.

oh thank you very much guy !!!! :D

do you have video on this design?

Not as of yet, but I am currently working on it.

It would be nice to have a video on how to construct the blade.

I am unable to slice Gear_Cover_Templar.stl, Gear_Cover_Assassin.stl, Gear_Cover.stl, or Gear_Pull_Idle_Ring.stl. do you know what could be going wrong? I just unziped your files and put them into my XYXware software and it tells me that that something went wrong.

The Gear Pull Idle Ring has been deleted from the files and is no longer needed. As far as slicing, Try using Cura 15.04.2, I have been using that slicer program for awhile and haven't had any issue with anything not printing.

I have the Da Vinci Jr. 1.0 from XYZPrinting which unfortunately forces me to use their own proprietary slicer to print anything. The printer does not even understand gcode only their proprietary gcode. even still I was not able to load Gear_Cover_Templar.stl, Gear_Cover_Assassin.stl, or Gear_Cover.stl in Cura 15.04.2.

You should modify it to be a double extended blade. If you don't know what I mean, check out imdeepainreborn YouTube account

As previously mentioned in the other posts, it is a dual action out the front design. And in reference to your other question. The assembly is about 8" by 2 1/2". I printed my at a 45 degree angle in order to print each component flat.

Roughly how long/wide is it? My printer can only print certain dimensions.

Quick question: is this a dual action model or is it just for extending or retracting? The rotary bits look like they toggle between extending or retracting but just making sure.

It is a dual action design.

And it's not easy to share the file with a lower resolution to make it more comfortable ?. Actually, most of the sites, leave not send files to print more than 5mg, and 25mg is yours.
Intl, and thanks again.
Happy new year, it does not talk back.

The file is built to size without scaling and the size of the file is because of the level of detail to make each component more precise when printed.

Hello again.
I use SketchUp from Google, for modeling simple objects, like this.
But I'm having trouble importing the "main housing" has too many faces, too many edges. I can not import this object.
Is it possible you can do a version with fewer polygons ?, if not, in any way I can import this object for printing.
In fact, all objects have more polygons than necessary, but I could modify them to avoid this problem and reduce the weight of the files.
Regards and thanks for everything.

There are several free software cad programs that are free. I would check out AutoCAD Inventor.

Hello, excuse my English, I use Google Translate.
I want to ask for a piece, that by downloading the "hidden blade" appears 0kb size, but that does not appear in the parts list for download individually.
Is the "Gear_Pull_Idle_Ring.stl" .¿Este file no longer exists or a failure in the web of Thingiverse ?.
Thanks for the input.

P.S. Can you limit the amount of expensive objects without affecting the quality of the final piece poruque ?, I say some of them are too expensive, so they become too heavy for the demands of working with some sites these files.

The Gear Pull Idle Ring has been deleted from the BOM. I changed some of the files in order to facilitate easy of assembly and the use of common springs. If the springs are too expensive then you could use rubber bands if you want, although I don't recommend it. With the closer tolerance the springs help overcome any additional friction. Let me know if you need anything.

Is there any assembly instructions or a model with all the parts positioned in place? (To be dissected in a 3d modeler for help assembling)

PDF instructional pictorial has been posted.

I am currently working on a set of detailed instructions in PDF format and will post them this week. I can also do a 3D breakdown of the parts as they go together in order.

Can't wait for a video of this in action!

A couple of questions.

If someone has access to a laser cutter, would you recommend using it for any of these parts?
If my printer can only print .2mm and PLA without a heated bed, would that be much of a disadvantage?
Finally, what is the overall cost of the materials you had to purchase? Namely the custom spring?

I wouldn't use a laser cutter except to do a rough cut before machining. The tolerances are really tight. You should be able to print at 0.2mm without too much issue, but you will probably have to do more finishing work. I'll have to get back to you on the price of the custom spring. I already had one spring and did a custom reverse order, i,e. took measurements.

Comments deleted.