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The Division - Shoulder Beacon v2

by guido666 Nov 25, 2015
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I would like to get that code for the neo pixel if possible.

They're posted in with the files (both .INO and .TXT).

hi there, guido666! I am attempting to make a Devision agent cosplay for 2016 Armageddon and would like to use your creation. There is one problem though, i don't know a thing about electronics. i understand that you may of put up a video showing how to wire it? But i have no clue where i would get any of the parts?

You use the parts of an Adafruit Neopixel Goggle Kit. Adafruit has tutorials and wiring diagrams for the whole thing. The only difference is that for this prop you only connect one of the two LED rings, and you use my code (included in the downloadable files section) instead of theirs.

Also, notice that this is v2 of the beacon, and there is a v3 available. It's the big message right at the top of the description... NOTE: SEE v3 HERE: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1411233

The Division - Shoulder Beacon v3

Your design looks great! Im currently trying to use your code on my neopixel ring with a gemma board and everything but the spin animation is working, wondering if I am doing something wrong or if you might have a suggestion? Thanks!

So it throbs, but doesn't spin? That's weird, because much of the other code is just altered spinning code. The spinning code is actually from Adafruit's tutorial, and came first before any of the other sections I made.

What does it do when it gets to a spinning part? Go blank? All light up? Something else?

That code is pretty simple too. Let's review it...

pixels.setBrightness(default_brightness); // Set to standard brightness
for(i=0; i<16; i++) {  // Starts counting at 0, up to 15, adding 1 each round through
  uint32_t c = 0;  // Create a variable named "c"
  if(((offset + i) & 7) < 2) c = color; // 4 pixels on...
  pixels.setPixelColor(   i, c); // Set pixel
pixels.show();  // Refreshes all the pixels to show their new settings
offset++; // Change the location of the spinner +1
delay(50); // Wait 50ms

Ok after replacing the text twice with your code above it now spins. Thanks for helping out, Im not so good at programming these rings yet.

That's weird, because the code I was showing above is the exact same code cut and pasted out of the file. The only thing changed is the comments. It shouldn't have worked.

Maybe you didn't have the libraries installed properly or something. That was going to be my next guess. It should only ever throb orange, blink red, spin orange, or sparkle green. If it was doing those with different colors, my suspicion is that the variable types defined in the libraries weren't being initialized or included.

Nice creation. If you could make parts for a cleaner costume, that would be amazing. =D

Great project! I saw you included some of the model files in the download. However, Fusion 360 will not import them for some reason (says it doesn't support that version). Is there any way to get f3d or other file types that can be imported? I would really like to edit the models and emboss my squad mate's names. Thanks again for putting this together!

This is made in SolidWorks 2016, and all the original files are included. You could try editing the .STLs, if you want. Generally speaking, trying to use non-native files imported from another program is always a pain.

I just started working on one of these myself (And the watch!) and I stumbled on your design while googling to see if there were any better reference images out there. :D (So far I've just got the original concept sketch, a bunch of stills I captured from gameplay videos, and so on...)

Guess I'm not the only one who realized a cheap tape measure could be scavenged for parts as a stand-in for the folded whip antenna! I decided to encapsulate mine in heatshrink tubing though. (Less chance of me making a horrible mess that way, heh.) I also went the NeoPixel route for the lighting. The parts are going to start arriving soon! :D

Most of my reference images are in a high-resolution collage above (all the ones I had when I made this version of the beacon). Feel free to use them, if you're designing your own.

I have a new version of the beacon that I will be posting soon. It includes some improvements (e.g. longer, adds screw holes to the top like they are in some new reference images I have, add "buttons" to left side, etc.), as well as adding some tiny details that are intended to be printed on a commercial-grade 3D printer (e.g. grooved texture on the back end, location bosses on the bottom cover plate, etc.).

I have suspition, that antenna pert should be closer to main body, but maybe i'm wrong. Great job!

If you want it closer, you can just sand the "hex nut" parts shorter, and attach it as close as you'd like.

I tried my best to take measurements/proportions from the game footage screenshots I took (all of which are available for download above, in one big collage image). My measurements actually suggested it should be FURTHER away, but I was concerned it might become too weak, or get snagged and ripped off more easily.

However, after all that, it ended up being a little too flexible, when connected to the body, So I rounded off two nuts with a Dremel, until they were roughly the same diameter as the 3D printed "hex nut" parts, after which I threaded them on the screws so that the body ends up being sandwiched between a nut on each side. It makes it quite strong.

I am also making this, mine is straight out of the WIP concept art ( the earliest version I think) from the Ubisoft website, and it will be a functional comms module that has a UV-3r walkie talkie in it, it should take me a couple more weeks to get everything together

Get it working yet?

The LED and radio is working now, the only thing left is the antenna.

I honestly think it could be a little thinner and longer. (But that's just my opinion). And I think you should make an attempt at the watch, I'm planning on making an airsoft loadout inspired from The Division. So I'm gonna wear this and maybe the watch if I (or someone else) figures it out.

Yeah, it's really hard to tell. Some of the screenshots (you can see the huge collage I made, above, of every possible sighting of it I could get) make it seem longer, others seem shorter. Truth be told, what I did was hold various sized object up to my shoulder, to see what seemed to mimic the screenshots most. You know what won? A pack of travel Kleenexes! So that the size of the shoulder beacon, haha. A close second was two cell phones stacked up.

I'm going to try making the watch. I've just been really busy.

I was looking through your files here and they are missing the main body and your other file doesn't have the detail that this one seems to. is there a reason for this or did you forget to upload the revision? I only ask because I think it would be neat to have this for a release party.

I also uploaded a few pictures of my costume. I'd love to see yours, if you make it. Good luck!

Sorry about that, check it now. Funny that nobody has noticed, or commented, in the 3 months it has been posted. I just reuploaded all the files... I have no idea why I was like that before. I also uploaded a couple pictures of how I bent the threaded rod, and epoxied it into the bottom of the antenna part.

The other file didn't have the detail because it was just a "quick and dirty" first Proof of Concept. Really, I should probably just delete the old version, but I thought I'd leave it up in case someone needs to make replacement parts, or can use it for something else.

Right on man. Since you updated the thing, I have been hitting the printing really hard. I will certainly show you when I am done. I am wondering though, are you printing in PLA? if so, what is it you are using to hide the layers? yours looks fantastic.

I printed mine in ABS. I have an inexpensive DaVinci printer, that only does ABS. The finish is simply an hour or two of careful sanding, a couple coats of Rustoleum automotive spray primer, and a couple coats of flat black spray paint.

I printed my lens, and the center of the lens, on the expensive Objet printer at work. The lens can probably be done in clear PLA, with some sanding, and perhaps flame polishing(?). The lens center will probably take some careful work. If you can't get them right from a home printer, maybe just buy those two parts from an online printing company (e.g. Shapeways, Quickparts, etc.)... at least they are small.

You'll need to buy an Adafruit Neopixel Goggle kit (cheaper than buying the parts separately) for the electronics. I'll post the code (you'll probably have to remind me). I wonder if I can upload a .TXT file to this site?

Also, you can try Smooth-On XTC for helping smooth the surfaces. It's a thin, brush on, epoxy-like product. It fills in the gaps, and hardens. There will be less sanding that way.

On the subject of Smooth-On, another way to make the lens would be to print it in whatever filament you have, that works well (e.g. black). Then make a small silicone mold, and cast it in a transparent resin. You'll either need to spray the lens with "frosted window" spray paint (like I did), or add a very tiny amount of white pigment (e.g. touch the tip of a pin in white pigment, and stir it into an ounce of resin... yes, that tiny) to "milk" it up so that it defuses light. Otherwise it's just like clear glass, and you see the LEDs on the other side, straight through.

ive got my neopixel on the way as well as the trinket to go along with it. I assume it is the 5v flavor of trinket in that kit. the pixel needed 5v to work and they are sold out of the kit. o well, I can make it work. I have some transparent orange that I am going to use to test my ability to print the lens. I then plan on trying to find some transparent and letting the layers do most of the frosting of the light. we will see how that goes. I thought about using smooth-on but I'm concerned about the smell. I'm also concerned about clear resin's smell. neighbors in apartments tend to dislike fumes. I may just increase my wall thickness and plan on sanding a bunch. Also, In case you are curious, I am printing on a printrbot simple with some cheap shaxon brand black PLA.

Yep, the NeoPixel ring and the 5v Trinket. I also bought the largest battery I could fit in there, which I think is the 2000mAh (double check the measurements to make sure). The small 150mAH battery that comes with the NeoPixel kit only lasts about an hour, while the large battery will last 8-12 hours.

If you print the lens with PLA, there will be enough diffusion with just because of the extrusion layers. If you look at the previous version of this Shoulder Beacon, that lens was printed with clear PLA, and lit with an orange LED. Nothing else was done to that lens. The lens on this current build was printed on a commercial Objet printer, and was as clear as glass... so I had to frost it to get it to diffuse light.

The Smooth-On products do not smell, really. While they are chemicals, and say on the can to use them in a well ventilated area, they don't really produce strong smells... no stronger than using epoxy, really. I've cast many things in my kitchen or living room, such as during the winter. With the XTC, you only mix up about 1/2 an ounce anyways, and brush it on. They have a little odor, but your neighbors won't smell it (e.g. it's not like using spray paint).

I uploaded the code, both as an Arduino .INO file, and renamed as a .TXT.

Thanks man, I may just hide the battery pack in the backpack somewhere, we shall see.
I will definitely try the smooth-on products now. I usually rely on sanding and either bondo or jb weld as filler to hide my layer lines.
I thought about casting the lens but the casting resins that I have are of the polyester variety, crystal clear but very very strong smelling. Ill try a couple things and let you know how it goes.
I did get all the parts printed for test fit. Man, the clearance on these things is amazing, the fit is perfect. I have printed other peoples designs, including some of my own, that use dovetails or pins or other methods of fastening and have had to carve on them with an exacto knife to get them to work. With this project, I didn't even have to deburr the edges at all for the lens assembly to attach. Well done. If you do decide to tackle the watch, I will be for sure printing one as well.
Also, beta this weekend. Woot!

I epoxied a switch into the side of mine (the side that faces my neck, opposite the antenna). That way I could put the battery pack inside, and turn it on or off at will.

I used this clip, epoxied to the back plate, and held in with a couple small screws too: http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DUXL7W4

Thanks for the compliment. I generally leave about 0.040" clearance (0.020" on each side), for things my 3D printer makes to fit together nicely. I'm a mechanical engineer by day.

I'll probably be doing the watch soon. I have one of the smaller NeoPixel rings, so I plan to design it around that. I wonder how long the battery will last, or how big a battery I can fit inside the watch. I guess I could put the battery on my forearm, and run a wire, but I try to avoid wires if I can.

Great work!

I've been looking for a division themed faceplate for my first gen Moto 360, any chance your working on the watch next?

Yeah, I'll probably do the watch too. Honestly, besides being really busy, I've ordered The Division Collector's Edition (with real watch) and have been waiting to see what it looks like.

Nice, there is a moto 360 blank file floating around that can be used, I'll probably scale whatever you make to fit that then.