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jimustanguitar

SeeMeCNC EZStruder Upgrade V3 - New Rev Uploaded!

by jimustanguitar Nov 19, 2015
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Hi Jim,
Can you explain the difference between the E3D version and the normal version? I do have an E3D hotend, but I am not aware of any changes for that on the extruder side. My main goal is to have a proper inlet, because I notice the filament running sideways of the teeth and therefore not pushing anymore. I am not sure how to choose the different designs you made.

The SeeMeCNC bowden adapter has a little bit different dimension than the E3D version. The parts are the same diameter, but the lengths of each diameter are slightly different. Otherwise the extruder bodies are identical, just use whichever one you own the bowden adapter for, and you'll be set.

I understand, thanks Jim. I have no clue as to wether I have a original SeeMe or a E3D bowden coupling, because I did not build it myself... I am measuring a coupler height of 14.10mm. Do you know which one I have ;-)

Hmm, I looked at the E3D website, and they specify 12.7mm, So I guess I have the original then...
Thanks!

The E3D pieces have a black PTC collar that fits directly into the aluminum adapter piece. The SeeMeCNC ones just have a threaded hole, and a separate brass bowden fitting screws into it.

Will this work on the CR-10S?

I did put one on my CR-10. You'd have to have the arm, spring, cover, drive gear, etc. from an EZStruder, though. Do you have one of the SeeMeCNC extruders to scavenge parts from?

I was having trouble printing flexible filament with the original EZStruder. So I printed one of these and it fit perfectly and without any modifications. Now I can print flexible filament without any problems!

Where can I get the part that pushes down on the filament? The actual thumb button, not the bearing

The original EZ Struder has been superseded by the EZR Struder, but it wouldn't shock me if the guys had some of the old parts around still. You might try the contact form on their website and see if they can hook you up. seemecnc.com/pages/contact-us

You can also dig up the solidworks files and STLs on their github, it's all open and published. github.com/seemecnc

Hi there, I want to try this on my creality CR-10S
Please can you tell me the size of your bearing ?

regards,

Comments deleted.

on version 3, why are the screw holes 4mm?

The stepper mounting holes, or something else?

The only revision on V3 that I recall was adding a touch more clearance for the idler arm to rotate into the filament.

Yes. And the hole to mount the cover.

No, that's the same still. Here's a V2 and a V3 next to each other. (I downloaded the STLs posted on Thingiverse to be sure)
http://i.imgur.com/ia5VsFI.png?1

Have you done a calibration wizard that might have changed your scaling? Anything that adjusts your arm length will effect the size of the printed parts.

Comments deleted.

Didn't try printing tpu before installing this upgrade, but it seems to be working beautifully. Printed the v3 release in ABS and it fit like a glove and seems to be working perfectly without even any trimming! Thanks for uploading this. It's honestly worth installing just for how easy feeding new filament into the machine is now, used to always manage to get hung up on something and take six tries before actually making it out of the extruder and into the Bowden tube.

Could not print ninjaflex without this. Tried several different flex-filament designs without success before this one worked. I had to print it a couple times and use a dremel to shave back the plastic where the EZstruder idler meets the filament path. But it's much easier removing exactly the right amount of plastic than trying to design/print it with perfect tolerances.

Glad that it worked well for you. I did do a slight design tweak to gain another couple degrees of rotation on that idler - exactly like you mentioned doing by hand. I need to upload that still, nice reminder.

Enjoy printing with flexible materials!

My first print resulted in a bit of a problem with the idler bearing not exerting enough pressure on the hobbed bolt. I assume that a problem with my print of this part resulted in the idler bearing getting caught on something.

I reattached my EZStruder and am printing a couple more of the v2 base plates to work out the spacing issue.

I suspect that there's a scaling issue at play. I've always had it work for me, but every 5 or 6 guys will mention that they had the same trouble... I need to modify the design to let the idler swing a little further so that it works for everybody.

Thanks! After spending the day screaming at my EZStruder as it kept pushing TPU filament everywhere except the Bowden tube, I'm going to spend the evening upgrading the part.

THANK YOU!!!!! You just saved me a hell of a lot of time. I was about to spend half of next week doing this exact thing.

The fact that it comes with a version for E3D makes it PERFECT!!!