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jamesarm97

Replicator Y Axis Rod pillow block

by jamesarm97 Jul 3, 2013
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should these be printed in pla or abs or does it not matter

Hello, I quickly made a mount that some of you may be interested in here http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1252025 . I superglued the block onto the mount i made and all seems to be working fine! :)

Replicator Y Axis Rod pillow block mount

Three reasons why to get these!

1st: You get to use your 3D printer to print something other than cubes, squirrels, and Darth Vader.
2nd: Even if you think you do not need extra support on your Y axis bar, You improve something you already own and I am sure enjoy using.
3rd: Please refer back to 1st reason!

See Replicator/FF Y-Shaft Pillow Block for a better version

Curious, how is this any different then the original ones I made? They look exactly the same and use the same size bearings.

It is similar but the person I did them for did not like the hole spacing and the hole for the bearing is closed more on one side the the bearing can be pushed in and held in place (if memory serves me right).
I'll ask the person I did them for.

Should be "print 4 of these and 4 bearings" for the Replicator.

Did you make this for any particular reason other then support? no issues with the printer?

Ok, it depends on how you look at it. No, it's not like it's required to print. That said, when you run with accelerated firmware such as Sailfish and you also want to eliminate any backlash or ringing/ ghosting in prints, yes this is required. Basically, the shafts are only 5mm and can be flexed by hand when supported only at the ends in stock form. That means when the motor tries to move the Y gantry fast, the rod flexes down and introduces backlash and position error. At the same time, the rods can flex towards the center of the bot. The rule is, if you can make it flex by pressure with 1 finger on the rod, the normal motion will make it flex and this results in little problems with printing an accuracy. By properly supporting the load with a bearing on both sides of the pulleys, you eliminate the rod flexing and the resulting errors. This made a HUGE difference in quality and accuracy of my prints. Not that they were horrible before, but now, they are dead on. Circles are about as perfect as they can get. In addition, I removed the spring tensioners on both y belts and simply moved the belts in the carriage tabs 1 or 2 notches tighter. It's all about taking any spring, stretch, or flex out of the motion system that NEVER should have been there in the first place. You can run the belts tighter, reduce any and all backlash as close as possible to 0. Without these, belt tension will just make the 5mm rods flex.

I thought that would have been the case, I'm running a flash forge creator. I will have to print these out and install. Thank you.