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danman

Halloween Crow

by danman Oct 25, 2015
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Don't print in vase mode... Use a minimum of a 3 wall line count with zero infill on the head, body and tail. The body should have a top layer of zero unless your printer can bridge some pretty long distances. There is no need for a top layer on the body, it matches the tail perfectly and glues up nice on just the perimeter. Feet can print with a 2 wall line count, 10% infill and 4 bottom and top layer. Loctite super glue gel to assemble.

It was really easy to print. I attached a couple of magnets bellow the feet and use it as a Scare-pigeon. Thank you for this design!

Any idea how to fix this? It's Simplify3D using Vase mode but no matter what I do i can't get it to seal the top.

Don't do vase mode...zero infill and a minimum 3 wall line count.

Thanks, I ended up doing this shortly after posting :)

For future makers of this...

Something that's been driving me mad making this is trying to figure out how to connect the pieces up. I scaled this down to 40-some percent and modified the beak to make it look like another bird. Been driving myself crazy and used contact cement and paper towel strips on the inside for the first one. Tried to improve and used wood glue and clear tape. Still waiting for it to dry.... Third one I still thought wood glue was a good idea. Wanted hot glue, but my hot glue gun was missing and I didn't have any sticks to heat up! Thought about this for a while and realized DUH I have a glue gun right here! It's called a 3D printer!

Went into ReplicatorG, opened the control panel, and hit extrude for 10 seconds. Blobs on the outside, but will probably clean up just fine!

PS: If you guys are going to paint your bird anyways and have problems with holes appearing (or layers that aren't perfect), Titebond II works really well to cover those holes (~2 applications) before painting!

One more edit: Using a lighter (butane, jet), you can actually, if you print the feet hollow (I use 1 shell (2 walls total), normal printer settings (non vase)), you can actually heat it up and get the toes to curl by curling them down with your fingers or a table. Works decently well and might allow it to hold on to a surface or even sit more convincingly on a pole/rounded surface!

Game Preak - I used hot glue to attache the legs and tail. The head is just held on by a duct-tape "hinge" to allow easy access to the batteries within the body.

I'm having some trouble getting the head to print properly. The beak overhang is a bit too much I think. See the pics. The big one is full size and the smaller one, which is a bit better, is scaled down to 85%. I'm using a TAZ 6 with Inova - 1800 filament, CURA slicing. Any advice?
thanks!
https://imgur.com/a/RrlUY

Perhaps turn up the fan a bit? That part of the print has been problematic for me as well. However, if you are using this at night this issue will be invisible.

Perhaps the OP of the Crow could post the Full STL prior to the Splitting then you can Split it on a different angle to avoid the Overhang.
Alternatively - Install Meshmixer, or similar and join the parts together as one, then Split them on the different angle.

You won't have much to work with of course - due to vase mode being the real killer here, and even if you tilt the beak backwards, it means you create a lesser angle elsewhere, such as the Back of the head or the Front of the object.

...check out the link Angus (Maker's Muse) posted here where he has made some adjustments for Vase mode to get better Angles...(up to 70%) - they may help...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HZSFoFYpBaA

Had a problem with the body printing in Spiral Vase mode on Robo R1+ so had to slice it some more.

How are the red LED's for the eyes powered? or are they not powered? Or, maybe the camera flash just makes them appear to be lit up.

They are low to medium strength LEDs powered by a battery holder with two AA size nimh rechargeable batteries. The LEDs are wired In parallel. The picture was taken without the use of a flash.

Oh I see thanks for the info. I was confused because I didn't notice any openings for any kind of wiring or batteries in the images of your .stl files that you uploaded. So I guess you just drilled holes in the eyes for the LED'S then?

I used a black and decker dremmel-like tool to create the holes for the eyes (used a little pointy burr bit). It's pretty low tech - the battery box is held in with a two little magnets from an old hard drive: one hot glued to the interior of the bird, the other hot glued to the battery box itself. To turn on the eyes, I insert the batteries. The head has a duct-tape hinge on the back of the neck so that it can flip up for battery access. If I had more time, I would add a ridge around the top of the main body section in order to make attaching the head easier and more secure. Note: locating the battery box in the top of the main-body-section of the bird helps it to balance properly on its feet.