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P3steel 2.x - X-axis complete

by toolson Sep 26, 2015
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Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

Great, thanks for posting, just ordered the P3Steel, looking forward to printing these.

Hi can you make it compatible with 8mm threaded rod?? And also compatible with 20mm center to center?

Does anybody know what's the width of the idler bearing hole?

In the description says MF126 bearing. I read the it's technical sheet and it has a 6mm inner diameter, 12mm outer diameter and 4mm for thickness.

thanks for your great job. I have printed all the parts. But I think the z-rod nuts need a stopper. Sometimes, the nut can go out of its seat spoiling the level.
I designed a stopper but it would be better for the nut to have a closed seat maybe.

z nut stopper for p3steel x-carriage
by ksevin

Hi thanks for the great design. When your say ours compatible with the i3 rework... Is it the exact same hole spacing as the i3rework for hotend mounting?

Awesome thanks printed it last night. Will addd to makes section also remixed it a tad. Will upload that too. Thanks for the excellent work!

What kind of timing belt are you using? All of the spare belts I have are reinforced with fiberglass.

Its made for and working with GT2 belts.

As it is a kind of old development i recommend to use my MK2 axis.

Thanks. FWIW, here's the GT2 belt that I have, which is reinforced with fiberglass and does not fit your model https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F2IQNX8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1. I am trying to find vendors of all rubber GT2 belts.

I have just stripped down my p3steel to upgrade to your design and use a titan aero head. My main concern is that I use TR8 leadscrew with the brass nut for the Z Axis. Can you provide the source CAD files for this design so that I can modify them for TR8?
Thank you!

I am in the same boat... wondering if you created/found a solution?

Just printed those, they work fine

Prusa Steel Lead-screw x-axis
by lahn92


which IGUS bearing can be used?

  • IGUS RJZM-01-08
  • IGUS RJ4JP-01-08
  • IGUS RJUM-01-08

Where is the difference?


You can use the IGUS RJMP 01-08

The difference is the diameter , someones wont fit well on the piece.

Comments deleted.

What screws do I need to hold in the bearings on the Z axis mount?

Love this design - thank you for sharing. I'm making a mega prusa i3 400mm x 400mm and this is just what I needed!

Wow love this wish it would work on a Anet A8. Haven't gotten to the point to be able to design things like this yet but would love to have this on my printer.

HI toolson,
Great job, I love your designs. What print setting are you suggesting for X-axis? More precisely, what would be best resolution and infill percentage?

on the x axis igus part, would i be possible to change the mounting holes to fit a nema 17? that way the motor could be screwed directly to the carriage on its back?
would be so much easier

I really like this design for the E3D but I have an Anet A8 printer. Would this carriage fit? I cant tell if the X axis rods are spaced the same distance apart.

Unfortunately this set doesn't fit. I have another clone of the Anet A8 (M505). The spacing between the smooth and the threaded are not the same between P3Steel and Anet clones. I learned it the hard way after I took apart the M505 but wasn't able to transfer the parts to a P3steel frame.

I don't know.

Hi Lars. I went over the holes for the X axis smooth rods on the X stepper mount and X idler with an 8mm drill and reamer, as you suggest on your blog. The fit went from very tight to quite loose and the smooth rods are sliding when moving the carriage along the X (without the belt or idler belt tension block mounted). Is that an problem, i.e. should the rods be solidly stuck in the holes, or is movement allowable?

How do you tension the x axis belt?

Hi, the BOM on your webpage lists sintered bronze bearings 8mm bore, 12mm OD and 12mm length. LM8UU are 15mm OD so the X carriage design would not work for those bronze sintered bearings, correct? Also, I understood that for the Z axis you prefer LM8UU bearings over the Igus replacements but am not clear as to why, probably due to my German being rusty. Thanks for sharing your designs!

Dont mix up MK1 parts with the BOM of the MK2 ;)

I also ordered the bronze bushings. Which X axis and Y axis files use them? I had the parts from your files printed but they are to big. Im building the 2.5v p3steel

Download the zip file that contains every MK2 part from here:

Thank you sir!

Oops, I see, as the title says P3steel 2.x I read that as mk2 and not frame 2.x. If I'm correct the designs for your mk2 rework (that looks absolutely amazing) are not yet published? I'm in the process of building a P3steel, just received my frame and have the sintered bronze bearings on order. I had ordered some RK4JP 01 08 Igus bearings as well but if the sintered bronze ones are a better choice I'd prefer to use those.

The MK2 is out for more than a half year. Performs absolutely amazing.

You can download all parts from my blog.

One last question - as you appear to be using LM8UU bearings on the Z axis, would Misumi LMUW8 8mm bore, 15mm OD, 45mm length be a good choice for a quality bearing? Thanks!

And so they are. I had missed the link. Looking forward to constructing my build with your designs. Thanks again for your amazing work and willingness to share.

Hello, can i replace the MF126 bearings with another one, i couldn/t find it in my country

You can replace it with any other bearing with the same width, inner and outer diameter.
Your chance to find is higher bearing without the "F"lange.

hi can you post native CAD files for the x carriage. .sat, step, x_t or solidworks .prt . anything that can be modified. I
want to add the 30mm mounting holes and change the 4 bearing diameters to work with the smaller diameter igus.

Is it possible to adjust the belt tension in X carriage ? Also where do we mount the X endstops

your mods are great but what about those of us with all steel p3 steel including x-carriage & end mounts

The all steel version is just another mod. Nothing "official".

You can replace the parts. The result is faster, more precise and silent printer.

Hi, where i buy this Especific MF126 bearing? It is a normal bearing?

Thanks, but when looking there are two types, one standard and one with a side flap.do you use a two washer with a standard bearing?

MF126 bearing is always a bearing with a flange

Do you have a design for X Axis bracket with SC8UU bearings ?

what about a bowden setup whit a inductive sensor ?

I never needed a sensor. That thing is absolut not necessary.
Just useless weight.

Hi Lars,
Thank you so much for the great work,
what about a version for sinter bearings 8/12/20?

Thanks, Matten

There will never be a version for 20mm long sinter bearings...

... be patient ;)

Hi Toolson, This is a great design and I have tried printing it several times.
Although all the prints come out great, the X Axis rod holes are too small.
Can you confirm that they are designed for 8mm rods? Or have I made a very stupid mistake :-)

It is for 8mm rods.
Your printer is not calibrated well.
Rework the holes with a drill somezhing else.

Thanks for getting back to me, appreciate your input.

What are the rods used for the X-axis?

Toolson, I have really been loving your designs for the P3Steel (I just upgraded to this frame from a cheap acrylic frame and it has been a great improvement). I have a question about the x-axis part 3 for IGUS bearings--when I print this part out, my IGUS bearings do not fit. I think the LM8UU and IGUS variants have the same size bearing holes. I have made sure that I have the RJZM-01-08 IGUS bearings, but they are too large for the holes. Is there a chance that the IGUS file is a copy of the LM8UU file?

Thank you very much for your wonderful work!

Thanks for your work and for sharing the great design.

I have a question and I hope it is not asking too much, would it be possible to amend the ends to accommodate a lead screw as I am thinking of upgrading from the m5 threaded rods to precision lead screws. Thank you so much if you are able to do this, no hard feelings if the answer is no.

Cheers again for your work.

My print results are perfect and my time is limited.

I don't need lead screw to achieve a good result.

The really only benefit of leadscrews is a faster Z-axis.

I don't have any plans to design leadscrew x-ends.
You are free to design you own.

Hi Toolson,

If lead screws only result in a faster Z axis then I may not bother thinking about these as an upgrade.

I appreciate your time is limited and only wish I was able to design 3D models up to the standard you do otherwise I would consider designing myself.

Fully understand you do not wish to do design lead screw X ends, am more than grateful for the designs you have made and shared as they are.

I would also like to see a lead screw mod, if possible :)


Hi, Great design
Is there a file for the Z axis end stop??

Excellent Job!!! Works on my Prusa I3 dual extuder by Geeetech. Have a great day! :-)

Robert KB3LNN

which design dwg did you use?
which is the thickness of the iron ?
which is the width of the holes of the interlocking between the components of the iron ?

It's a P3steel 2.x frame. Material thickness is 3mm.

which you .dwg you used for the frame in iron ?


I bought the already lasercut frame.
The frame is compatible to v2.0.

Great parts! I have almost the same ones...
I have an unusual question. As I put the M5 nut with heat into the plastic, do you have any idea how to remove it? I want to add a backlash free nut assembly (with a spring between them) to my printer but I'm stuck on the nut removing...

  1. If you put in the nut with heat, the parts were not printed precise.

  2. Using a backlash freed nut assembly is a bad idea. You will add more friction to the system and have to slow down the Z-axis speed.

  3. There is no need for a backlash system. While printing Z-axis is moving just in one direction.

  4. Screw a bold into the nut, heat the bold with soldering iron, pull at the bold with pliers while nut and bold are warm.

Thank you very much. Your advices are great and logical... :)

What screws do you use to hold the bearings in? This design looks great! Also, the v4 side with the motor mount seems to not be water tight and tends to have errors during slicing for some reason. Any ideas?

Thanks for your compliment.
I repaired part 4. It's now manifold/watertight.

Normaly the bearings should clamp in the printed part. The screws are just additional fixture.
There is no space for a nut, that is why i cutted a M3 thread in the printed part. The 4 screws are ISO 7380 M3x8.
You can use a wood screw with panhead insted.

The screw for the 2 MF126 idler bearings is DIN912 M6x25. A washer and and nyloc nut is needed too.

The two screws for the belt tensioner are DIN 912 M4x20. Two nuts are needed.

Ok. Thank you so much for the quick repair and for all of the details! Going to print this in a few days and I'll let you know how it goes. Thank you!