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Makuna

Precision handle for Dremel with finger protection

by Makuna Sep 21, 2015
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works very good thank you

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From what you describe, you are not getting good enough bed adhesion. Search around the web on the topic of your printer and improving bed adhesion. There are a lot factors to getting good bed adhesion, more than could be covered here.

Works like a charm. Much more control now.
Nice design.

Hello Makuna,

Could I get the file to edit it? I want to utilize this awesome design and add a protective shield for the metal disc bits.

You have the files that I have. There were no source files.

I cannot get this to screw on to a Dremel 285. The threads simply don't seem to catch. I scraped off the extra plastic and they look great.
However, this other dremel print screws on without issue: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1346254
I wonder what the difference is?

Dremel accessory V2
by Ideas3D

The other thing you linked isn't specific about the model of the Dremel, but as far as I know all official Dremel products use a similar thread pattern.

Use a small ruler and measure the thread count per inch and compare that to the print. Are they the same?

Something to try is use a small file or emery board to "clean up" the threads. The tolerances are tight but most people don't have issues.

Printed reasonably well on my Anet A6 with PLA. 0.2mm resolution, 5mm brim, no supports.
No major problems with bridging or overhangs.

Surface finish is alright, but I believe this is because of my printer, and my inexperience - still new and learning the ropes, so I need to tweak things here, and tighten things there.

My white PLA broke twice during the print, which is why you see the faint under-extrusion bands, where I paused, and replaced the filament. Nothing that a little CA glue cant hold together. The second time I broke, I switched to my black PLA.

I can confirm that this fits on a Dremel XPR 400. It was initially a little difficult to align the threads, but a few tries and things were good.

Comments deleted.

Hello could it be possible to make a left-handed version,
I tried to mirror it in cura but in reverse the thread...

You got it!

I just uploaded a left handed version.

This was a modification of another thing, so I didn't have the source files. While I had separate meshes for the threads and body; the tools I had didn't have the ability to mirror mesh pieces (Fusion 360 nor 123D). But after several hours of trying different things I found that Cura allowed me to mirror and then save the modified file, which I could then import back into 123D for the merging.

I have not printed this left handed version, so please let me know how it works out for you.

Hello Again,
in the name of all left handed people, Id like to thank you.
it works very well.

Hi Makuna, many thanks for the quick answer,
I've just downloaded the stl file, will let you know as soon as it is printed.

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Does this fit a 4200?

I don't have a 4200 so I am unsure, but the Dremel Website states it compatible with all accessories.

This looks as a very useful accessory. Thanks for posting it. I just imported it into Simplify3D and it identified 4 non connected parts in that model, For example, the big nut at the bottom is a separate model than the body and it also complained about self intersecting surfaces.

If possible, it would be nice to clean the model such that the slicer doesn't get confused (it prints holes at the connection between the nut and the body).

Interesting, the tools I used showed no holes. I will try a few different ones to figure out why it isn't fusing the geometry correctly.

I just verified the original model in Simplify3D. It doesn't have the self intersecting surfaces issue and is made of only two separate parts, the part itself and that small brim rectangle which is reasonable.

Found the issue. It was due to the separate parts being present. Merged them and uploaded a "fixed" version. Cura doesn't have a problem with original, its interesting that a paid product like SImplify3D does.

The fixed model seems to be sliced correctly in Simplify3D. Thanks. Simpliy3D still complains about self intersecting surfaces but it doesn't affect the slicing. I haven't print it yet, just sliced and reviewed the slicing.

I did a print, it failed due to some other issues. but I noticed some holes on two sides as the sides grow up from the threaded area. Its not present in the model, but in my slicer. The original unremixed model, didnt show them in the slicer (simplify3d). The holes did come out in the print.

Comments deleted.

I just confirmed that the file that is uploaded has no holes in it.

Some things to try:

  • Make sure to try the latest version of the slicer.
  • Use a visualizer to view the STL before and after Slicing.
  • Try slightly different slicer properties, like layer height or wall thickness.

I suspect the Slicer is having a problem with something in the model. I have ran into some strange issues with slicers when the models are a little complex and detailed. Often the issues get resolved with the next release of the slicer. But it is a good thing to bring this issue to the people who created the slicer so they can diagnose the problem.

I use Cura myself; it has nice visuals to not only see the model but also see the layers after slicing.

will do thanks

I've always wanted this type of grip on my Dremel for precision work, and then I ran across the design you remixed.. Then I saw your remix so I don't have to remix! Thanks!!! Will print next time I break out the Dremel and post Make!

What print settings did you use?

This was printed in ABS. I used Cura with my Taz 4, and I just used the ABS Medium Profile with Brim selected for platform adhesion. Standard ABS temps of 230 extruder and 85 for bed.

If you look closely at the photo, you can see the small bridge artifact under the curve of the guard, but otherwise it printed very well and the object in the photo had only the brim removed before it the photo was taken.