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Low Profile tablet holder V2.0

by Mdavisgtm Sep 21, 2015
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this is amazing!, Thank you so much, hopefully i will be able to print this soon! WOW! Beautiful design...

had a hard time getting the 'hex pattern' that forms the bottom edge that holds the tablet to print correctly. it just has so much overhang going on top of the thin sections that the printer knocked them over resulting in a ugly edge/roughness in what is sort of the most visible part of the print.

I am hoping that enabling zhop and slowing the speeds down some more will help.

some of these parts just barely fit on my ender 3.

Great design!

I'm still in the process of printing everything out, but assembled one side and it's bringing up a question - is the connection between the Back Pin and the spring loop intended to be friction fit? It seems like the spring loop might easily slip off the pin because the pin is just barely long enough to catch the spring, I don't think I really want to glue it in case I need to replace the spring, and don't see any extra pieces similar to the Caps that are intended to keep it in place.

Edit: It will be a problem, just trying out that "wall assembly" the spring keeps slipping off the pin.

Does this scale properly? Could I put it all together in blender, scale it up to fit my wacom cintiq, and re-export it all without the final print having any issues?

Yeah that should work fine, but you know you can scale everything up right in Cure or whatever slicing software you are using.

Love it. it will free up space on my kitchen table when I cook. uses a little glue, but most of it just snap together. no more paper print recipes thanks

Brilliant design man! Good job!

I am printing the whole thing now, itm is too big to fit ino the Logitech Keyboard Case.....Russ

Thank you very much for this print, I am only using part of the print to support the Ipad2 in a Logitech Keyboard Case , so I will probably have to redesign the left and right brackets to fit in the case, as most of you know, the Ipad pops out of the Logitech Keyboad Case quite easily, I am making a piece that will hold it in place. I will of course upload the newly designed brackets as soon as I finish re-designing them. I have a Wanhao Duplicator 4 with a 220 mm base, and we are getting a Cubicon 3D printer that will do a much better job with a bigger base. If anyone wants one printed, it will take about 10 hours on the Duplicator 4 and even less on the Cubicon, just PM me... Thanks ... Russ

By the way, by turning it sideways, I was able to get the full scale into the print................ Russ

This looks awesome!! Thanks so much for sharing.

After trying to print a pangolin all day, I realize I'm near the end of my filament and need to conserve.

What percent could I scale this down to for an iPad 2?

Height: 9.50 inches (241.2 mm)
Width: 7.31 inches (185.7 mm)
Depth: 0.34 inch (8.8 mm)
Weight: 1.33 pounds (601 g)

The width is going to limit ya, you could probably get away with using a .97 scale factor but thats about it. Glad that ya like it :)

I used a 100 % scale factor, printed it sideways just bearly fit on the bed.... Russ
On my 3D printer it takes about 3 hours to print, my 3D printer is a Wanhao Duplicator 4....

very kool , would you do one or two for sale , if so can you make the something that handles heat very well . thanks

I could make and sell a couple but it would probably be more expensive then you would think. As for heat tolerance I have a nylon based filament that I have used with parts that sit in the passenger cabin of a very hot car and they have survived without deforming at all. Send me a PM if you are still interested. Thanks

Hi I have an old Motorola Xoom which I want to use with this.
It is 9.81 x 6.61 x 0.51 in

Will I have big problems with the thickness?
In your description says .43" thick so mine is 0.08" thicker

Any quick solution?

Thanks in advance

I think that should fit, I measured the gap and it is almost .55 there is a cross bar that goes above the tablet so the only way to increase the gap would be to scale everything up

Ok, I will try it and let you now afterwards.

This was a very fun print. Took about a weekend on my robo 3d r1 plus. Print turned out looking good. Design is very well engineered.

I used White Esun PLA at 205 degrees with a 50 degree bed. and 50% infill. Some of the models required me to rotate and position them on the build plate manually as the arms were too long to print straight across, I made them diagonal corner to corner on the plate. I used high strength hairspray on the print bed. Very Important turn off support structures, the model prints fine without them, this was my logic for using 205 rather than my normal 210 on the head temp.

If I were to do it again I would use 100% infill as I feel this would make it a bit more solid. I took all the fasteners and printed them in one print which turned out fine, but I would recommend printing spare back pin as I broke a few getting them installed correctly. Heck just print two sets of fasteners to start out with as you might break them. I also would have gone lighter on the hairspray in the center of the bed and only put liberal amounts on the corners where the model was most likely to peel up. The large flat pieces were hard to peel from the bed.

First print the "Right Pad" then the "Left Pad" and the "Pad Spine", this way you can glue them together while you are printing the rest of the parts.

Second print the Right and Left Top Bracket and glue the two of those to either the right or the left wall (Leave one of the walls off so you can put them all together in the end.)

Print the rest and assemble, last step gluing the wall that you left off to the top bracket.

@Mdavisgtm props here, I really like the design, one suggestion on the engineering would be to somehow connect the right and the left brace together so they do not slip from the track.

I had problems with the honeycomb pattern in this file LeftPad-_Print_1.STL. I didn't stick to the bed.
I found the problem. The honeycomb pattern starts at the second layer.
I moved it -0,6mm (z-axis) in the slicer and then it printed perfect.

Finally got it finished.
The bottom edge of the 'pads' is kind of a pain, and requires a very well calibrated printer to look good.
So far the PLA springs seems to hold up, but if they break I can always try printing them in Ninjaflex or something.
One technical issue; the 'Braces' may sometimes escape the track when the holder is in the open position. Also, the 'lip' holding the braces in their tracks together with the groove they match could be slightly larger.
The issue with them slipping out I intend to fix by mounting a rod between them.
And I expect the braces to slide smoother by themselves as they wear in.

Beautiful design. Unfortunately, I don't have a printbed larger than 200x200mm...
Is there any way that you could redesign the two parts that are too large?
(I really, really don't want to have to tilt it 15 degrees or more, and waste a whole lot of filament in support structures and build time)

I could do that if you really need me to but a lot simpler option would be for you to scale down everything to be able to fit. What size tablet are you planning to use with it? The tablet that I used was 262mm x 181mm

It's an ASUS ZenPAd 10.1", which is 251.6 x 172 x 7.9 mm. There's not much downscaling possible, really.
I can probably work around it, somehow.
But if you happen to make a version where all parts fits on a 200x200 or smaller buildplate, there's a lot more 3D printers that can make the parts.

I took a look at the model and if you print everything at .95 scale then all the parts should fit within your 200 x 200 bed and it will fit your tablet no problem. That is a good point about keeping it within that size range, if I ever make another one I will keep that in mind. Hope your print goes well!


Going to start a print tomorrow morning, so that it's ready by the time I get home.
I can fit the Left Pad, Left Brace, a Spring, and a Swing Bar all on the same bed.

Good luck. I woukd love to see how it turns out if you would like to share it on here!

There may be an issue with the pad parts on some printers. I'm, currently printing my third 'Left Pad'.
The issue is with the 'top' hole for the 'Spine'. Because the top edge next to it is 'detached' from the rest of the design for the first 2mm or so, it is very easy for it to break loose. This is made worse on some printers where the HPB can't properly maintain an even temperature all over. So these two parts needs to be printed with brims. (I can fit a 12 line brim on my Wanhao.)
The first failed print wasn't caused by this issue, though.(Nozzle clogged on me on the first... )

yeah I see what you mean with that. I had no issue at all with it and I did not use a brim, but my bed does keep a pretty consistent temp all over. If that piece does break off it really is not that big a deal, the pad spine will still line up fine and is is at the back of the assembly and will not be noticed when it is assembled,

If the piece breaks off the area above it will be slightly misshapen because the slicer will not be anndling the area as an overhang. But as it's on the back, that's not all that much of a problem. What's worse is that the broken off piece may be dragged off with the hot-end and ruin another part of the print.
There may or may not be an issue with the honeycomb in the 'lower edge' of the pads when scaled down to 95%.
What's the cross-section of the structures?
(The entire section collapsed for me. It may be an issue with the filament I'm using, though.)

Can't get slicer to work with the spring file. Its keeps getting an error and exporting a blank g code. any idea? everything else worked fine.

Sorry but I don't use slicer. Everything worked fine for me using Cura.

ah, i assembled everything without the spring. Seems to be working fine, though the weight of the tablet makes it fall out of the "up" position. Perhaps the spring will correct that problem? Fun and useful print. Thanks

Yeah the spring keeps it in the up position, perhaps you could use two rubber bands instead of the spring? Just put them on the pegs that the spring would go on. Glad that you like the print!

I'm absolutely in awe of this design! Great peace of mechanical engineering!

Thanks, glad that you like it!

Thanks! I used 20% infill with everything and .08mm wall thickness, the material I used was Colorfabb XT and it is plenty strong. I think that it would work fine with ABS or PLA except for the springs I don't think they will work if made out of PLA but probably would if made with ABS.

I printed the springs out of PLA 100% infill and they work great.

Great design! Any recommendations for print settings for strength?