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Test your 3D printer! v2

by ctrlV Sep 17, 2015
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Hey All,

Totally newbie here....can someone tell me why this turned out like this. Using an ender 3 pro

infill: 33%
layerheight: 0.2mm
Nozzle heat 235
Bed 60

Any help would be very much appreciated.

Note. I dont have Ender 3, I use a Prusa direct nozzle.
235 for PLA is excessive temp, at 40mm/sec speed Ill run 195 DegC, increased to 205 if I push ip to 75mm/sec.
Drop the temp to 205 or 210 and work down in increments of 5 until your print still has that glossy look.
The second part is over extrusion. Your printer may be pushing too much filament and so its a mess but start with temp and see how it cleans up. If you haven't yet done a filament test then do that too. There are plenty of how to's on the web about feed rate. I believe the Bowden style print heads do need a slightly higher temp and more feed pressure but I dont own one, so cant make judgement.

Comments deleted.

Thanks for providing this help for newbs like me!

Can you give me some advise to print it better?

PLA 1.75mm
0.4mm extruder
Cura 3.1.0
PLA 1,75mm
Bed: 60°C
Printer: 200°C
First layer 0.1mm
remaining layers 0.1mm
Infill 20%
30 mm/s Perimeter
80mm/s Infill
No Support
Print cooling enabeld

(using the build-in Fine Profile for the CR10 in Cura, except for the Printspeed)

You say extrusion width of 0.48 mm and layer height of 0.1mm. Wouldn't the nozzle dig into the previous layer?

(I am a one week old n00b in 3d printing)

Thanks for providing this. Its a real help to get my printer calibrated as good as possible.

Generally pretty happy with this, but what I cant seem to nail down is the finish on the top layer. Very visible "drag" marks where the extruder seems to drag across the surface.

Any help gratefully received!


Prusa i3 (Sintron DIY)
PLA 1.75mm
0.4mm extruder
Slic3r 1.29
First layer 0.3mm
remaining layers 0.2mm
Infill 30%
60mm/s Perimeter
80mm/s Infill
No supports or raft
No print cooling
Printed from PC wit Pronterface 2014.08.01

Test your 3D printer! v2
by geoffl

Would really appreciate some help with this.
Printer is calibrated, Still struggling a bit with Z height

Prusa i3 Mk2, Slic3r RC1 Prusa Version
PLA (from prusa)
Printed via SD
Extruder .4mm
Extrusion width .48 mm
Primary layer height .1 mm
Infill 33%
Printing speed 20 - 60 mm/s per second max
Retraction 80

Images URL: http://imgur.com/a/8VnQW

1 Some Stringing bridge columns and overhangs
2 bottom surface is not flat (visible string patterns)
3 numbers not solid
4 small holes surrounding cutouts (text, numbers)

  • 1 adjust retract/temperature
  • 2 try with raft
  • 3/4 seems like to less plastic extruded

Sorry for my ignorance, brand new to printing and kind of learning as I go :) I see it says this test is for "0.48mm extrusion width", I have a qidi tech printer (FFCP clone) and I see on my simplify3d software my nozzle and extruder width are both.40mm. Can I adjust the width to be .48mm or is that something I am not supposed to mess with? Could I still use this test with my .40mm? Thank you and I apologize again for my ignorance. :)

have a look at this, this works with 0.4mm nozzles.

Awesome! I tried the original with a 0.4 nozzle and the result is not very nice... it does the job alright
I will try your ersion for 0.4 later tonight

Hi! I've been trying to calibrate my printer and come across this. I posted a pic in the I made section, if you had any ideas for me I'd like to hear them! Im having trouble with the first layer - it seems like its not getting enough pla down, its a bit gappy, but after the first layer it seems to get better - a leveling problem?

The fine comb on the base is quite messy with blobs. The pyramid has steps in it close to the top. The brigde gets thicker and thinner - but is nice and straight. The angled pillars have blobs on the top corners and I can also see a few tiny holes in the top surface around ctrlv and m4. Also theres some stringing that i think came from the first layer! Thanks :) http://www.thingiverse.com/make:234936

Test your 3D printer! v2

Try using a glass print surface which you rub Elmer's® Washable School Glue Stick. Next try increasing you extrusion multiplier.

Hello! I've bought a printer 2 weeks ago. Your test objects are very useful! Thanks and I'll post the results onthis site soon.

Do you have any advice to improve my prints?
I printed it in 0.1mm, with cooling, at 190°C


it seems like warped in the side view.
the overhang seems a little bit melted, maybe more direct cooling.
check the extrusion width.

Okay, I will check that! Thanks!

what's the point of this?
I first thought it was a puzzle, LOL

maybe read the infos and the title of this calibration / test part :-)
if you print 42 pcs. you will maybe have a puzzle...

This is just another calibration test print to help you hone in your printer for better results. Giving it a go now since it doesn't use much plastic (some of them use heaps).

In the description there is 5 overhangs:
"overhang: 25°/30°/35°/40°/45°"
But I see 6, so - one is missing, which one? 20° or 50°?

Anyway, great job!

it's a double from 35°, glad you found this, i dont have such cool glases... will fix this.

Perhaps adding 50 degree angle would make sense.

I just checked with Fusion360 and baseplate seems to be 1.5mm tall instead of 2mm, as other users have reported.
Please check/fix description. Thank you for sharing :)

you are right, the baseplate is just 1.5mm. i uploaded a corrected version.
thanks alot for the hint.

Any advice for my part test results?


Test your 3D printer! v2

nice orange :-)

here some things you could try:

  • Size - check the steps from yout Z-axis, proof with dial gauge
  • Hole Size - check your extrusion width and speed for lines > go slower.
  • Nut Size- same as holes
  • Fine Details - check your retract settings > less retract, also lower print speed to 30mm/s to check if the results are better.
  • Rounded Print - lower retract
  • Min Distance and Walls - check the extrusion width
  • Overhang - lower speed, check X/Y axis for clearance
  • Bridge Print - lower speed
  • Surface - check filament diameter with digital vernier caliper with a resolution of 0.01mm or better, adjust in software

will print, im assuming no supports or this would b too easy :P

with support the pyramid will have no good view :-)

I am a little confused with extrusion width. How can set it in CURA slicer?

there seems no easy control in cura, according this link

not shure if this is still the case...

i tested these slicer

CURA is great but I can't recommend enough to have a couple slicer's at your disposal. Sometimes one just codes your prints better than others and have way more control over your printer.

it would be cool if there is a real slicer available, current slicer's have a lot of issues with different things.
it's a pain to check several slicer if they are willing to produce a useable result.

Printed pretty well on the makerbot replicator 2x. Would make the pieces less fragile though, as it broke when removing the base plate.

i will add this to the wishlist for the moment

Slic3r sliced it ok, but I am seeing a lot of thin strings, noticeable across the holes and the vertical pillars on the bridge and also around the vertical comb.

Any idea on the cause? also some sagging on the longest bridge section.

I'll try and photograph, but printed in black it might not show up too well.

running on a CTC 3D with the suggested settings.

Need to increase your retract perhaps?

a picture tells more

I see the same, but my monoprice select mini is .4 mm nozzle. Do you have a version for .4 mm and 1.75 pla?

OK, I tried this with my CTC Makerbot Clone

First layers work really good, the print looks awesome, but after this, the nozzle gets clogged every time...
I think its because it spits out some unnecessary material while traveling?!

Following configuration:
Software: ReplicatorG Sailfish 40r33 with Skeinforge "Replicator 2 slicing defaults" and Print-O-Matic activated

Infill: 33%
Layer Height: 0.1mm
Number of shells: 1
Feedrate (mm/s): 30
Travel Feedrate: 40
Print Temperature: I tried 210 and 220
Bed Temperatur: 0
No Support
Material: PLA
Nozzle Diameter: 0.3mm
Filament Diameter (mm): 1.73

What can I try or doing wrong?

ctc printer is replicator dual... not replicator 2. maybe it profile issue? mine had same problem a lot too tho

make sure your base plate is level

how do you unclog the nozzle? maybe to hot?
check if there is enough cooling, and the feeder gear is clean.

Skeinforge is not very easy to configure, Print-O-Matic seems to be easy but in most cases you're better with manual control.
maybe you can use the makerbot software.

thanks for the infos.
I think, that the nozzle is never clogged. It seems that the feeder has a problem.
I cleaned that gear wheel twice, but it is not really dirty...
Then I start printing and after few minutes he goes like "tok tok tok tok tok tok...." and doesnt feed any material anymore...
Even if I want to unload material he doesnt get it out, always this "tok tok tok..." noise...
Perhaps the motor is broken? Or sth else?

had the same problem, increase the current

  • if you hear the "skipping step sound" you have
    a) something that blocks (to cold extrusion, hardware issue)
    b) not enough power from the stepperdriver (if there is info, adjust it with a multimeter)
    c) bad pla

Thank you very much for the info so far!

a) I print at 210° since I have the printer and I got no problem with that. The second extruder has no problem with that.
I disassembled the extruder and I cleaned the stepper, there was nothing that blocked

b) with stepperdriver you mean the NEMA 17 stepper motor? But why should it have not enough power now? Can it get less power over the months of use? What you mean with "if there is info, adjust it with a multimeter"? Where do I have to adjust it? At the motor or in software or on the mightyboard?

c) bad pla? you mean mightyboard is broken? How to check this?

Simplify3D only creates gcode for three of the 7 vertical fins.

whats your extrusion width?
could you please send some pictures from the slicing?


The extrusion width is 0.48mm in the Simplify3D process. Simplify3D seems to elide walls thinner than the extrusion width. Because of this, the .4mm, .3mm, .2mm and .1mm walls do not get created when sliced.

most slicer have this behavior.

Any suggestions?

My board thickness came out to be roughly 1.5mm instead of 2mm
The circles are too small (but not oval). 3.75mm, 2.35mm, 1.75mm
And none of the letters on the board are legible.
Lastly, the bridge didn't print but I'm not super worried about that. I feel like that is a problem in and of itself. Perhaps raft/support is needed.

Photos here: http://imgur.com/ckSF3EZ,xTMJ2lK

  • it seems your printbed is not leveled. you can use a raft and/or calibrate.
  • check your Gcode for the Z-value in the last layer, this should be Z6.5.
  • if this is the case, check your hardware with a dial gauge for proper z-height.

check out http://www.whoote.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=5

what do you do if it is wrong?

Which print speed do you use for this one? 30 mm/s?

depends on the material and printer hardware.

I.e. what material/printer/speed settings do you use to get a print time of ~30minutes?

with ABS / selfmade printer / 60-200mm/s i get about 34 min.

  • Perimeter 60mm/s
  • Loops 60mm/s
  • Infill 120mm/s
  • Travel 200mm/s
  • Retract 3mm @ 60mm/s

the baseplate is 2x50x30mm, small / big is a point of perspective :-)
what size you would like?

Should it be so small?