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jsirgado

Ekobots - Box-H 3D Printer.

by jsirgado Sep 16, 2015
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hallo kannst du eventuell wenn es geht eine liste schrieben welche teile ich wie oft drucken muss damit ich alles habe was ich für den Drucker brauche steige da überhaupt nicht richtig durch welche teile jetzt die richtigen sind und welche teile ich wie oft brauche das wäre super nett von dir danke und super projekt ich bau den jetzt und wenn noch möglich gleich die configuration.h mit hochladen die du bei dem Drucker nutzt mit der richtigen Bezeichnung welches System sprich marlin du nutzt und welche Version.

hello can you possibly if it scares a list, which i often print, what i have i was for the printer browse the over height not quite through which though the right one, and which they breuche the super nice of you thanks and great project I build the now and if the configuration.h with loading the printer with the correct name system say marlin you and the version.

Hi Geek3Dde.

If your 3D Printer have a plate of 200mm x 200mm or bigger;

1 - What 3D print (files .STL you need):

  • Plate_Frame.stl;
  • Plate_Axis_X.stl;
  • Plate_Axis_Y.stl;
  • Plate_Axis_Z.stl;
  • Plate_Linear_Rod.stl;
  • Plate_Bearing.stl;
  • Palte_Motors.stl;

Optional Plates, you can choose other in the site:

  • Plate_Extruder.stl;
  • Plate_Filament.stl;

2 - I used the Marlin Firmware version 1.0.2-2.
3 - In configuration.h, just uncomment the "// #define COREXY"
and adjust steps per mm, endstops, max/min temp...;

TIPS:
1 - Use the STL file "_Printer_Box_H_V2_20_fixed.stl" for help in the assembling.
2 - You can not print objects at full speed with this version of 3D Printer(yet),
because it is a H-bot (not cross belt) coreXY, not a pure MIT (with cross belt) coreXY 3D printer.

There is a pattern error in the motors moviment, that need to be corrected in the firmware for H-bot printers.

Kind regards Juan.

ich baue den drucker nur etwas höher also ich dneke so 500 mm Gewindestangen was heist nicht volle geschwindigkeit ich drucke meistens so zwischen 60 und 90 mm/sek oder ist das noch zu schnell allso muss ich nur die alle 1 mal drucken dann hab ich alles
Plate_Frame.stl;
Plate_Axis_X.stl;
Plate_Axis_Y.stl;
Plate_Axis_Z.stl;
Plate_Linear_Rod.stl;
Plate_Bearing.stl;
Palte_Motors.stl;
haben sie ein ramps 1.4 bord dran oder was benutzen sie und was für ein extruder bezw hotend benutzen sie da an dem gerät

Estou com problema na configuração do marlin, você usou algum sensor no Z, para fazer probe? poderia compartilhar seu código comigo só pra fazer comparações com o meu. Também sou do brasil rsrs.

douglas.ddc@hotmail.com

Olá Douglas!

Mandei um e-mail com o código e fotos.

Abraços.

How do you fix the racking issue on this printer. I have ensured everything is square, the belts are correctly tensioned and linear bearing are fitting tightly on the plastic parts for the x and y axis (no play). My round objects come out as oval because of the issue...

To see what the problem is I am having, have a look at this guys video. This is exactly what I am seeing:

https://youtu.be/2_wWr66bl6Q

Hi JaredJ.
It is an issue in the H-System, but you can fix it.
I believe we have different rubbing(attrition) between the x and y axis.
To move the x and y axis the motors run in the same and opposite direction,
keeping all aligned, it will not be a problem if all is correct;

Please verify:
1 - The x and y axis must to run really free(remove the belt to test);
2 - The motors for x and y axis must to be equals;
3 - The power cable for the extruder is soft and free;
4 - Same for the filament system;

Please let me know:
1 - Type of belt(gt2/mxl);
2 - Pulley size (teeth);
3 - Motors type, power(kg/cm);
4 - Filament type(3mm or 1.75mm);
5 - Printing speeds;
6 - Firmware and version;

kind regards Juan.

What sizes is the threaded rod?

Hi ike080.

Sorry, I just see you message today, buy I have added the sizes in the description some time ago.
But you can change all, I made my printer with 500mm in the Z axis.

7x threaded rod 1 meter 8mm than cut it:
. 4x for x frame 400mm
. 4x for y frame 400mm
. 4x for z frame 350mm
. 1x for z axis 310mm
6x linear rod 8mm
. 2x for x axis 340mm
. 2x for y axis 360mm
. 2x for z axis 310mm

Kind regards Juan.

Depending on where you buy your parts you can definitely build this for under a 200. Also if you check out local scrap yards they might give you a deal on the threaded rod and nuts. Once I finish a excel sheet on cost and links ill post it. :)

Hi Ike080.

Thanks for the tips.
Here in Brazil is hard to find some parts(motors, electronics, etc), I believe that for me it costed just a little more.
But under US$ 500 for sure.

Kind regards Juan.

Hi nice cheapo design. How much did the printer cost you?

Hi brooti1988!

I do not have the correct value but I believe it cost less than US$ 300.00.
I live in Brazil and the things here are really expensive.
In local currency the cost was about R$1,000.00.
But there are a lot of used parts, like Motors, Power Supply and Heated Head.
The electronics are Ramps 1.4 and Arduino Mega.

Kind regards Juan.

Im just done whit my version of this printer. i did make some new shelf brackets, but the bed design needs an upgrade. I find it a bit wobling.
There is to upgrades i like to see on this, and i need help to design them.
That is to be able to use a M8 Lead Screw on the Z axes, and a mount for a bedleveling probe on the X carrage.

Hi otiki!

I made one and I will publish the photos next weekend!
My bed support is in aluminium profile and ABS parts, very cheap and easy to buy and mount.
I believe it is very light and strong, I will publish some photos of it also and how mount all.
I can try to design a bed leveling support, but will take some time.

Thanks!

i did upload my shelf brackets and can put them in the files for your printer if you like.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1978253

i did find a way to get a probe for Z leveling buy changing out my fan for my E3Dv6 whit this. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1288590
i will report back how it works.
The M8 Lead Screw is what i need to work on next. :) BTW the printer works like a charm :)

Bed Shelf bracket for Ekobots - Box-H 3D Printer.
by otiki
E3D V6 cooler fan and blower duct
by joy1

Hi im prunting all the parts now an all the circles comes out oval.
Is this ment to be like this? about from that this looks like its going to be a good 3d printer.

Hi otiki!

Something is wrong...
Please verify the proportion for the axes X, Y and Z,
in the .STL and .GCODE files.
All roles(circles) for screws and bars are circles.

Kind regards Juan.

after having printed the same part in two different directions I located my problem. while I also remember the last time I maintained my printer I replace not only the belt but also the gear on my stepper.
so my X axis is off by 6mm. So then it's back to calibration :) and printnerly all parts again. hope to be done with the printer in a matter of weeks.i might upload some pictures of it then.

hey! great design!! im building one but i dont understand how to place the belts. Could you help me a little more in that part? Ty ^^. how does the 2 motors work?, they work together to move x & y axis with only one belt?

Hi stressedtux!

I published some photos of my printer to help you!
Any problem or doubt please let me know.

Kind regards Juan.

Hi stressedtux!

Please to mount the belt and others parts, see the images in the object.
It is easy to mount see the image bellow(cutted), in the object images you can see the full image:
http://thingiverse-production-new.s3.amazonaws.com/renders/ff/8b/63/53/28/Sample_002_preview_featured.jpg
Yes, just 1 belt for X and Y, motors running for the same side, Y move, motors for opposite sides X move.
The system is called H-Belt and we have the corexy too.
You need to use the Marlin firmware, I believe the Sprinter do not support this system.

If you have any problem or doubt, I can help, just let me know!

Kind regards Juan.

TY :) great work!!!

Working on this now have the parts printed out and about to get the rods any suggestion on capping them or a way to keep them from sliding at all during prints?

Hi recon_drifter!

For the rods we have screws and nuts for all, no sliding!

For the bearings you need use some glue, any kind of glue will work!
Just choose the best for you.

I suggest in order:

  • 1 super glue(fast/strong);
  • 2 silicone glue(strong/but not fast);
  • 3 white glue(easy to remove, repair and clean);
  • 4 hot glue(fast/easy to remove/not very strong);

Kind regards Juan.

Hello, nice project!
what kind of hotend do you thing to use for this extruder?

See the image Hotend sample in the object: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1019352

I see lots of different hotend sizes but it will fit in:

Hotend - 16mm diameter x 5mm height base and 12mm neck.
Hotend - 16mm diameter x 5mm height base and 10mm neck.

You can just cut out 5mm or use bigger screws in the hotend base in case:

Hotend - 16mm diameter x 10mm height base and 12mm neck.
Hotend - 16mm diameter x 10mm height base and 10mm neck.

Or you can adjust the OpenSCAD file for your hotend and create a new STL file.

Ekobots - Double hotend fix.

Hi juan
Are the 2x metallic shelf brackets ~50x~210x~3mm for the table with heated bed and I guess they connect to te z bearing parts?

Hi Marc. Sorry is really hard to see anything of Z axis in the images, I upload some blue-prints that can help you. Inside the OpenSCAD have a object "z_linear_threaded_fix.stl" to fix the linear rods system with the lift system, now it was uploaded. It is not in the plates because I do not recommend use it, the ideal is use 2x full size metallic bar ~150mm like you see in the new images.