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Artichoke Lamp Shade

by gCreate Sep 14, 2015
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I've been trying to print this lamp shade using Creality CR-10S Pro. During the printing, the printer freezes randomly for a few seconds then it starts again. It pauses every 30 seconds like that. As it pauses, the filament continues to be extruded so it makes little bumps of filament everywhere on my print. The printing was supposed to last about 48 hours but after 48 hours it was only at 39% done. It doesn't do that on any other gcode. What could be the issue knowing that I print from the sd card ? Thanks in advance if someone has an answer. (I printed at 0.2mm, 30% infill, no supports, Z axis retraction activated,)

THats more of a problem with the Hardware orfirmware of the machine... does this phenomenon repeat with other long prints?

Finally printed it successfully with PLA.

The trick is, raise the Shell Amount to 4, this will reduce the Infill of the filigree Wings, cuz it will be filled by the Shells, that reduces vibrations caused by the infill and will reduce the risk of a Wing break and also improves the print quality and the stability of the Wings.

Before this i've tried it several times with PLA, ABS and PETG, but no success with a Shell amount of 2.

The result was broken parts between a print process of 40-85%, cuz of the infill in the Wings, the infill produces too much vibrations, cuz u have short but really fast travels, with a higher Shell Amount you have longer but silent travels for the filling of the Wings.

Printed it with a Raise3D Pro2

Comments deleted.

I printed this. But the top is too large for standard bulb fittings in the UK. Can you recommend what bulb fitting should I use. Thanks.

Got it queued at 75% overall scale which based on my measurements will fit the 3cm diameter light fixture I have (UK also). Will let you know if it fits once I've printed.

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

I like this design and want to use it on a floor stand lamp but think the plates could be a bit thinner to let more light through the design. Besides using semi transparent filament. could you thin it out more, or supply the fusion file if possible?


Do you think you could cut the parts at their back bone supports or provide the solids file? Given the geometry of the shade you could split it just at the support backbone "strands" and make a dowel alignment connection at each level. This would reduce the number of print failures, as well, allow users to really scale this thing up.

I'm currently editing the stl file, but im terrible at meshmixer.

is there a good chance to split it to parts to be printed on 22x22cm bed ?

you can do that using meshmixer =)

Hi all. I print this fine lamp with Cura on my Rostock Max V2.
100% infill, 50mm/s, 0.2mm, PLA, 33´h
Comes out perfect on the first try!
Thanks, love it!

That's great to hear!

this will be the first print on my 500 x 500 x 1000 Hypercube mega :P thank you so much for sharing

Hello to everyone, i'm trying to print with the original MK2 Prusa with 40% infill, ABS, hot plate 55mm / s
I can not get past the second wing, who can help me to figure out where I am wrong?
Thank you!

This thing is just about... oh... 200mm too big for my Printrbot Metal. A shame, I've wanted an "artichoke" lamp for years. Sadly, I'd be able to buy a much larger 3D printer, one easily capable of printing one of these, for half the cost of a real Poul Henningsen artichoke.

Did any one out there managed to 3D PRINT this Lamp shade? From what I am reading on these coments, it seem too difficult to print.

Tried on Prusa MK2, first ABS but it wasnt looking good and nozzle crashed around 40% into the structure and shifted whole print. Second try with PLA looked way better, I went bit up with the Z axis, but again crashed around 40% into the structure. Third and last attempt I made with Zhop at 2 mm, but again crashed. No clue what to do :(

I ended up the remix of this design that has this broken into 6 parts. I combined it into two part bottom and top and printed at 94% to fit on the printed. Used PRUSA MK3 using PLA filament. No supports but added a substantial skirt

Hi, I had the same problem at 40% ... Using a anet a6 , Simplify 3D , X-axis shifted at 40% . Maybe with Cura it will be ok ? Which slicer are you using ?

I was using Slic3r PE, but it is a long time ago. We've already introduced many improvements to the software and I've seen it printed in my colleague's office about a month ago. However, it was on Prusa printer. Not sure what to set for Anet.

scaled it down to 90% and it is a piece of cake for a prusa I3 MK2. now it goes on the light bulb when you screw it in to any socket!

@Vivosims - 90%? I had to go to 83% to get the height to be 197?

In Cura I as well have to scale it down to 83% in order to be slice-able. Will it still fit the socket when scaling it down?

How long did the print on the prusa MK2 take? Just finished building my MK2, and this seems like a nice project to test this printer.

Newby here. I want to send this to print at a local 3dhubs. What are the chances of success? It seems that this is a pretty tricky one to get right?

Tricky indeed. We have been testing the limits of our 3d printer. If they quote it that means they should be able to print it but it just may be a very slow print. We would be curious to see the results. Do they have a gMax printer?

Well, I got my print from "Rocket City 3D's Hub" on 3dhubs, and I couldn't be happier. I just posted my "make" with a couple of pictures. I think they made it on a Lulzbot Taz 5 and printed using white PLA at 200 microns. I don't know any more details. I tried to post some pictures that the hub attached to my order as it was being made, but couldn't figure out how to download the pictures in order to do that.

If it goes forward, I will post pictures of the result. I'm waiting to see if they'll accept the print. The guys I chose have a MendelMax 2.

I'm sorry, it's about 30mm too tall for my Mendelmax 2. I hope you find someone that can print it.

Thanks. Most MendelMax2's we have seen are good printers so hopefully it works out. Not sure if you saw one of our other lights. It was made for Anna my partner and co-owner of gcreate. We have several more on the way too. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1492012

Anna Flower Light
by gCreate

Yes, I saw it. It's already in my "liked" things. Great work. I hope I can learn to design things half as beautiful and intricate one day.

Cool. Just subscribed to your channel.

Keep at it. We're actually working on a new 5 part design tutorial video for YouTube literally right now.

Will it fit e27 bulbs?

It was designed to hold a standard A19 bulb. Make sure it's a CFL or other low temp bulb.

I've just got an idea. What if I make it wider to fit GU4 led bulb? It actually makes a spotlight without overheating.

Very cool design!
Is that a prusa i3? what variation?

Nevermind, just saw your comment below about the printer! ;)

cool almost looks like a hops flower

I sliced it at just about 24 hours...
But failed about 8-10 hours in :-(

Can't get the angles on my machine in ABS... I know I can print it in PLA but I'd rather have it in ABS for maximum heat properties and longevity...

How was the original printed gCreate? Do you remember what settings were used?

We found the lower portion of the lamp to be the hardest part due to the extreme overhangs. The model also has a fair amount of bridging so make sure your printer has high cooling.

Print with a lower layer height (around 160 microns) and this will help with the overhang angles since each layer will be that much lower. Since each printer handles settings differently, I am posting tips below instead of specific values.

-Print with high cooling
-Try raising the z-axis during retractions (a setting in most slicers) to help cool the fins but also reduce curling
-Print the lower portion of the model very slowly
-Reduce the number of perimeters and set infill to a low percentage. For the fins you don't need any infill.
-Again make sure you have the right settings to be able to handle 1.5" of bridging.
-Print in carbon fiber filament. CF filament seems to have little or no curling at all and it is great for the angles. It's just black so it has to be finished once complete.

Please include a reference to the original Louis Poulsen lamp from the 50ies in your Description Text. It is really not a nice thing as a designer, to plagiate someones other Design and don't even leave a Reference. Also it is good education for most here...

While I agree adding the link is great for reference, I disagree that having inspiration constitutes plagiarism. As a designer myself, who has had his works actually plagiarized, that is no small charge. There is a line between being inspired and copying. I was actually inspired by the geometry of an artichoke combined with Poulsen's hand drawn section diagrams on light scattering.

It looks very nice, bit I do have two practical concerns:

  1. It looks like it'll block almost all the light.
  2. Most 3D printer materials are ridiculously flammable. Try putting some PLA or ABS into a flame some day and watch how well it burns. I'm not happy with putting so much of it near anything electrical.

Hi Vylbird,

  1. The light was actually designed to block most of the direct light so that only reflected light would scatter. The light was inspired by the great designer Louis Poulsen and his amazing lighting diagrams and studies. Definitely worth research if you're interested.

  2. I wouldn't say most filaments are 'ridiculously' flammable otherwise they would catch fire as they are extruded. We recommend using a cfl bulb due to its lower temperature. A typical CFL bulb has a heat range around 80C-100C and that's at the surface of the bulb. ABS has a glass transition temp around 220C and an auto ignition temp closer to 400C. This provides a very safe buffer from the CFL bulb temp. Also PLA or ABS will no doubt catch fire in a flame which has a temp over 1000C but this only applies if you have a malfunctioning electrical connection (in which case most components in your house would also catch fire since almost every electrical component in a modern home is plastic and in direct connection with electrical circuits).

We leave our light on every night and I have been actively checking the temperature, by touch, and the light is only slightly warm to the touch.

The bigger worry is if you use an incandescent bulb or you have a light with very little ventilation. We designed an different light with no ventilation and used a 60 watt incandescent bulb. The result was the print slowly sagged over the course of 5 days and it would have fallen off if we didn't stop it (which was part of our small experiment).

As mentioned the light was designed so the fins would not allow light to pass through (creating the gradient effect) which is why it prints with 4 perimeters. We also printed it in carbon fiber which resulted in a very cool 'dark' effect. Great for an intimate setting.

Thanks for the feedback.

I like your wind turbine too. Can't wait to try printing it.

Do you know if a UL testing is needed for this shade? I wanted to use it in our office and our facility engineer said it can not be used without testing. We are using an LED light blab.

1 Use slightly transparent filament
2 i) Spray with non-flammable paint
ii) Print with nylon - which is an ignition resistant material with a high melting point
iii) Use an LED or CFL light bulb

using LED is a good idea....as well as non flamable paint...this is just a to beautiful of a design to not print.

I like your 3D printer. What is your printer name/model? thanks.

Hi Velidemir,

We are the makers of the gMax 1.5+ and gMax 1.5XT+ Large Formate Desktop 3D Printers. Check out our website (http://www.gcreate.com) for more information, free downloads and our 3d print gallery.

Just tried printing and I'm getting problems with the base of each "fin" sagging - reckon if I added a V-Shaped notch into the base of each "fin" that it might solve the sagging issue by making it an inward slope instead of an regular bridge?

Any other suggestions on how to fix it - perhaps a change the printing parameters?

(Current attributes: 60mm/s bridging speed, 100% fan speed/cooling - using PLA at 195C (I alter the temp by up to 10 degrees in either direction - the lower temps tend to delaminate though!)

Many thanks!

Great idea. I was having the same issues.
Post your modification if you get around to it!

Any specific speed, or layer settings?

The speed is very printer dependent. On the gMax 1.5+ we print it at around 130mm/sec movement speed, 70mm/sec print speed with 60% perimeter speeds. You can also try printing with z-axis lift to avoid the tricky overhangs. As for layer height it is really up to the effect you are going for. We personally like seeing the cascade of layers (as the light shines) so we prefer a thicker layer height of around 240 microns.

got it, any supports?

We print ours without supports but keep in mind the overhangs are quite extreme so you may have to add them.

Looks cool but I can't imagine how long that file will take to print.

The print time is dependent on the printer and the filament. We printed one shade in around 20+ hours using a simulated wood fill by Polymaker but we still had a lot of stringing so we still have to tweak the settings. We printed another in Protopasta carbon fiber PLA which looks absolutely stunning (Photos coming soon) and i think it was around 17-18 hours. The model requires a high level of cooling or slower speeds which will increase the time.