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spauda01

D-Bot Core-XY 3D Printer

by spauda01 Sep 6, 2015
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Hello Spauda01,

I rebuilt your D-BOT-CORE-XY in the big version about 1 year ago. For that I would like to thank you very warmly, the project was very well documented and only then could I finish everything without any problems without any help.

I also made some changes for better stability and it works fine for all my parts so far.
Now I had a part that was 250 x 250 mm and here is a problem with me.
Rear is X and Y 250mm exactly 250mm
front is X 257mm and Y right and left 253mm
in the middle X and Y are each 250mm
I did not notice that, because most of the small parts filled the print bed, so much of it I have the first time.
Can I correct this with my parameters or is this another mistake?
Thank you in advance for any help!
Best regards,
Karl Heinz

first of all congrats for such detailed guide and parts!

some questions for creator/makers of this particular build.

i d say i am very experienced with 3d printing at home, i have built a classic prusa i3 like 3d printer mostly out of scrap parts from work and been printing on it for 3-4 years. i would like to build another one for:

  • higher speeds
  • larger parts
  • enclosed builds for ABS etc

seems like coreXY helps with speeds, and this build is nicely done to enclose print. my questions are:

  1. isnt this design kind of heavy on the aluminum bar on top moved by coreXY motors? i usually see single railed square profile (dont know how to call it)
  2. do these wheels have high friction over side aluminum bars? again limiting speed?
  3. will this coreXY setup actually print significantly faster than a prusa i3 style, like 1.5x the speed?

thanks in advance for anyone to bother answering

Anyone have this problem? I had my printer in storage for a while, got it home and tried to print. So i replaced the belts, tightened the extruder carriage and it still does it. Anyone have any ideas? It is like "wobbly" only on one side of the print.

after replacing lots of stuff, i found out my titan extruder was loose, so the hotend was fairly loose inside the case, slightly moving

Hi Guys,

I have converted a Reprap Prusa I3 to a core XY printer. Everything is set up apart from the flashing of the Arduino/Ramps board. I have an older version version of Marlin installed on there. Can I just flash the latest version of Marlin on there or is there another procedure that is simpler to follow. Also can you point me in the right direction and which version to download, please. Your help will be greatly appreciated.

Theoretically is it possible to use 2040 extrusions where the 2020 extrusions are I know it's a weird question but I'm trying to print the extrusions instead of buying them and I'm struggling to print 2020 ones

hi, i wiring ramp 1.4 as tutorial pdf files and flashing the tutorial marlin but when i move x or y axis manually using repetier software, only x axis motor is moving??? is there anything that i did wrong??? i try to swap the motor and again only y axis motor is moving???

Did you home everything first?

Left side X-Y stepper motor GT2 toothed pulley is walking down motor shaft in spite of efforts to tighten, re-position etc. Looking for recommendations regarding how to correct. Already stripped one set screw trying to tighten.

I ended up purchasing a set of replacement GT2 20 tooth pulleys. Wasn't on purpose but the 20 tooth seem to be working fine with the appropriate M92 adjustment. They also have larger set screws which should resist stripping out more than the half as big ones in the 16 tooth version.

I also installed with the big end up making access to the set screws easier than the other way around.

Hey guys, has anyone replaced the arduino board with another logic board? I was thinking about replacing mine for future upgrades. Does anyone have any recomendations?

Just FYI for those with soldering skills. The connector kits listed in the electrical section are unecessary. I just snipped my connectors off, added some wire to lengthen the wire and soldered the connector back on.

@spauda01 can you add your stuff to the d-bot group or open an own one? It´s much easier to find good upgrades, if their would be a group with some links.

https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/d-bot

Does anyone know how to fix this problem? I'm not sure what it is it looks like the motors are not getting enough power, however there are times that the motors will make huge steps that are inconsistent in size.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sHJLZy-UxlA

Does anybody have alternate places to find the screws and fasteners? MrMetric (the one used in the BOM) has gone out of business.

Very good idea but why you not use ball screws for the Z. You have make a fantastic work.

Comments deleted.

Ive been working on the arduino code for almost a week now and I can not seem to get rid of errors. I just added a Full Graphics Smart LCD controller and as helpful as it will be in the future I can not get it to work. my code always seems to haver errors can anyone help? This is the error that i can not get rid of-

Arduino: 1.8.8 (Windows 10), Board: "Arduino/Genuino Mega or Mega 2560, ATmega2560 (Mega 2560)"

java.io.IOException: The sketch already contains a file named "Marlin.ino"
at processing.app.Sketch.checkNewFilename(Sketch.java:273)
at processing.app.SketchFile.renameTo(SketchFile.java:179)
at processing.app.SketchController.save(SketchController.java:347)
at processing.app.Editor.handleSave2(Editor.java:1895)
at processing.app.Editor.handleSave(Editor.java:1870)
at processing.app.Editor.handleRun(Editor.java:1588)
at processing.app.Editor.handleRun(Editor.java:1583)
at processing.app.EditorToolbar.handleSelectionPressed(EditorToolbar.java:456)
at processing.app.EditorToolbar.mousePressed(EditorToolbar.java:439)
at java.awt.Component.processMouseEvent(Component.java:6536)
at javax.swing.JComponent.processMouseEvent(JComponent.java:3324)
at java.awt.Component.processEvent(Component.java:6304)
at java.awt.Container.processEvent(Container.java:2239)
at java.awt.Component.dispatchEventImpl(Component.java:4889)
at java.awt.Container.dispatchEventImpl(Container.java:2297)
at java.awt.Component.dispatchEvent(Component.java:4711)
at java.awt.LightweightDispatcher.retargetMouseEvent(Container.java:4904)
at java.awt.LightweightDispatcher.processMouseEvent(Container.java:4532)
at java.awt.LightweightDispatcher.dispatchEvent(Container.java:4476)
at java.awt.Container.dispatchEventImpl(Container.java:2283)
at java.awt.Window.dispatchEventImpl(Window.java:2746)
at java.awt.Component.dispatchEvent(Component.java:4711)
at java.awt.EventQueue.dispatchEventImpl(EventQueue.java:760)
at java.awt.EventQueue.access$500(EventQueue.java:97)
at java.awt.EventQueue$3.run(EventQueue.java:709)
at java.awt.EventQueue$3.run(EventQueue.java:703)
at java.security.AccessController.doPrivileged(Native Method)
at java.security.ProtectionDomain$JavaSecurityAccessImpl.doIntersectionPrivilege(ProtectionDomain.java:74)
at java.security.ProtectionDomain$JavaSecurityAccessImpl.doIntersectionPrivilege(ProtectionDomain.java:84)
at java.awt.EventQueue$4.run(EventQueue.java:733)
at java.awt.EventQueue$4.run(EventQueue.java:731)
at java.security.AccessController.doPrivileged(Native Method)
at java.security.ProtectionDomain$JavaSecurityAccessImpl.doIntersectionPrivilege(ProtectionDomain.java:74)
at java.awt.EventQueue.dispatchEvent(EventQueue.java:730)
at java.awt.EventDispatchThread.pumpOneEventForFilters(EventDispatchThread.java:205)
at java.awt.EventDispatchThread.pumpEventsForFilter(EventDispatchThread.java:116)
at java.awt.EventDispatchThread.pumpEventsForHierarchy(EventDispatchThread.java:105)
at java.awt.EventDispatchThread.pumpEvents(EventDispatchThread.java:101)
at java.awt.EventDispatchThread.pumpEvents(EventDispatchThread.java:93)
at java.awt.EventDispatchThread.run(EventDispatchThread.java:82)
The sketch already contains a file named "Marlin.ino"

Marlin:44:101: error: U8glib.h: No such file or directory

compilation terminated.

exit status 1
U8glib.h: No such file or directory

This report would have more information with
"Show verbose output during compilation"
option enabled in File -> Preferences.

you need to add the U8glib library to use the full graphic smart lcd.

Thank you for replying so fast! I already have already added U8glib to the library but the error keeps poping up. Is there a way to find the code for this online and download it?

I don't think it is possible, what ever the marlin files you'll use, if you want to use a full graphic smart lcd, you'll need to include the library.
The other issue you might have (if it doesn't come from the library) is a compatibility issue between the marlin version and the IDE version.
Depending on your marlin version, you may need to use older version of IDE.

Also:
"The sketch already contains a file named "Marlin.ino""
Is your folder clean? It looks like there is several Marlin.ino files in there

I finally got the U8glib error solved. But now i get this

Arduino: 1.8.8 (Windows 10), Board: "Arduino/Genuino Mega or Mega 2560, ATmega2560 (Mega 2560)"

java.io.IOException: The sketch already contains a file named "Marlin.ino"
at processing.app.Sketch.checkNewFilename(Sketch.java:273)
at processing.app.SketchFile.renameTo(SketchFile.java:179)
at processing.app.SketchController.save(SketchController.java:347)
at processing.app.Editor.handleSave2(Editor.java:1895)
at processing.app.Editor.handleSave(Editor.java:1870)
at processing.app.Editor.handleRun(Editor.java:1588)
at processing.app.Editor.handleRun(Editor.java:1583)
at processing.app.EditorToolbar.handleSelectionPressed(EditorToolbar.java:456)
at processing.app.EditorToolbar.mousePressed(EditorToolbar.java:439)
at java.awt.Component.processMouseEvent(Component.java:6536)
at javax.swing.JComponent.processMouseEvent(JComponent.java:3324)
at java.awt.Component.processEvent(Component.java:6304)
at java.awt.Container.processEvent(Container.java:2239)
at java.awt.Component.dispatchEventImpl(Component.java:4889)
at java.awt.Container.dispatchEventImpl(Container.java:2297)
at java.awt.Component.dispatchEvent(Component.java:4711)
at java.awt.LightweightDispatcher.retargetMouseEvent(Container.java:4904)
at java.awt.LightweightDispatcher.processMouseEvent(Container.java:4532)
at java.awt.LightweightDispatcher.dispatchEvent(Container.java:4476)
at java.awt.Container.dispatchEventImpl(Container.java:2283)
at java.awt.Window.dispatchEventImpl(Window.java:2746)
at java.awt.Component.dispatchEvent(Component.java:4711)
at java.awt.EventQueue.dispatchEventImpl(EventQueue.java:760)
at java.awt.EventQueue.access$500(EventQueue.java:97)
at java.awt.EventQueue$3.run(EventQueue.java:709)
at java.awt.EventQueue$3.run(EventQueue.java:703)
at java.security.AccessController.doPrivileged(Native Method)
at java.security.ProtectionDomain$JavaSecurityAccessImpl.doIntersectionPrivilege(ProtectionDomain.java:74)
at java.security.ProtectionDomain$JavaSecurityAccessImpl.doIntersectionPrivilege(ProtectionDomain.java:84)
at java.awt.EventQueue$4.run(EventQueue.java:733)
at java.awt.EventQueue$4.run(EventQueue.java:731)
at java.security.AccessController.doPrivileged(Native Method)
at java.security.ProtectionDomain$JavaSecurityAccessImpl.doIntersectionPrivilege(ProtectionDomain.java:74)
at java.awt.EventQueue.dispatchEvent(EventQueue.java:730)
at java.awt.EventDispatchThread.pumpOneEventForFilters(EventDispatchThread.java:205)
at java.awt.EventDispatchThread.pumpEventsForFilter(EventDispatchThread.java:116)
at java.awt.EventDispatchThread.pumpEventsForHierarchy(EventDispatchThread.java:105)
at java.awt.EventDispatchThread.pumpEvents(EventDispatchThread.java:101)
at java.awt.EventDispatchThread.pumpEvents(EventDispatchThread.java:93)
at java.awt.EventDispatchThread.run(EventDispatchThread.java:82)
The sketch already contains a file named "Marlin.ino"

Build options changed, rebuilding all
In file included from sketch\SdFile.h:27:0,

             from sketch\cardreader.h:8,

             from sketch\Marlin_main.cpp:44:

SdBaseFile.h:38:8: error: using typedef-name 'fpos_t' after 'struct'

struct fpos_t {

    ^

In file included from sketch\Marlin.h:10:0,

             from sketch\Marlin_main.cpp:30:

d:\inventor\arduino-1.8.8-windows\arduino-1.8.8\hardware\tools\avr\avr\include\stdio.h:950:33: note: 'fpos_t' has a previous declaration here

extension typedef long long fpos_t;

                             ^

In file included from sketch\SdFile.h:27:0,

             from sketch\cardreader.h:8,

             from sketch\cardreader.cpp:2:

SdBaseFile.h:38:8: error: using typedef-name 'fpos_t' after 'struct'

struct fpos_t {

    ^

In file included from sketch\Marlin.h:10:0,

             from sketch\cardreader.cpp:1:

d:\inventor\arduino-1.8.8-windows\arduino-1.8.8\hardware\tools\avr\avr\include\stdio.h:950:33: note: 'fpos_t' has a previous declaration here

extension typedef long long fpos_t;

                             ^

In file included from sketch\SdFile.h:27:0,

             from sketch\SdFile.cpp:23:

SdBaseFile.h:38:8: error: using typedef-name 'fpos_t' after 'struct'

struct fpos_t {

    ^

In file included from sketch\Marlin.h:10:0,

             from sketch\SdFile.cpp:20:

d:\inventor\arduino-1.8.8-windows\arduino-1.8.8\hardware\tools\avr\avr\include\stdio.h:950:33: note: 'fpos_t' has a previous declaration here

extension typedef long long fpos_t;

                             ^

In file included from sketch\SdBaseFile.cpp:24:0:

SdBaseFile.h:38:8: error: using typedef-name 'fpos_t' after 'struct'

struct fpos_t {

    ^

In file included from sketch\Marlin.h:10:0,

             from sketch\SdBaseFile.cpp:21:

d:\inventor\arduino-1.8.8-windows\arduino-1.8.8\hardware\tools\avr\avr\include\stdio.h:950:33: note: 'fpos_t' has a previous declaration here

extension typedef long long fpos_t;

                             ^

sketch\SdBaseFile.cpp: In member function 'void SdBaseFile::getpos(fpos_t*)':

SdBaseFile.cpp:298:8: error: request for member 'position' in '* pos', which is of non-class type 'fpos_t {aka long long int}'

pos->position = curPosition_;

    ^

SdBaseFile.cpp:299:8: error: request for member 'cluster' in '* pos', which is of non-class type 'fpos_t {aka long long int}'

pos->cluster = curCluster_;

    ^

sketch\SdBaseFile.cpp: In member function 'void SdBaseFile::setpos(fpos_t*)':

SdBaseFile.cpp:1496:23: error: request for member 'position' in '* pos', which is of non-class type 'fpos_t {aka long long int}'

curPosition_ = pos->position;

                   ^

SdBaseFile.cpp:1497:22: error: request for member 'cluster' in '* pos', which is of non-class type 'fpos_t {aka long long int}'

curCluster_ = pos->cluster;

                  ^

In file included from sketch\SdFile.h:27:0,

             from sketch\cardreader.h:8,

             from sketch\stepper.cpp:30:

SdBaseFile.h:38:8: error: using typedef-name 'fpos_t' after 'struct'

struct fpos_t {

    ^

In file included from sketch\Marlin.h:10:0,

             from sketch\stepper.cpp:24:

d:\inventor\arduino-1.8.8-windows\arduino-1.8.8\hardware\tools\avr\avr\include\stdio.h:950:33: note: 'fpos_t' has a previous declaration here

extension typedef long long fpos_t;

                             ^

exit status 1
using typedef-name 'fpos_t' after 'struct'

This report would have more information with
"Show verbose output during compilation"
option enabled in File -> Preferences.

How do I delete the extra marlin file? Ive looked everywhere in the library and I only see 1.

I figured it out thank you for your help! Looking forward to printing on this beast!!

Just curious, What was the issue?

My LCD screen wouldn't work properly. Everything is good with the lcd screen. Now I'm trying to get the motors to make the right size steps... But I'm getting closer and closer to making this work.

Comments deleted.

I see way down in the comments that this has been mentioned, but it caught me, so maybe worth reiterating.
Not all T-Slot nuts work with the printed parts. The printed parts project into the slots and the T-Nuts may project out of the slots. They meet in the middle before the part is snugged down onto the extrusion. Well, this was a problem for the T-Nuts that I bought - the smaller hammer nuts may not be such a problem. I suggest you test by snugging down one bolt so it is just tight and then try sliding the part on the extrusion - if it slides, then you might like to rethink your approach. Sure, you can really tighten down and maybe get it to stay put, but you will probably end up with cracked parts over time. I see a lot of people complaining about cracked parts and this may be one of the causes.

In my mind, there are three options:

  1. Turn nut over so that it doesn't project into slot - worked for my T-nuts. I do not recommend this as the nut corners bite into the extrusion - which may not be a problem if you never have to adjust things.
  2. Admit you bought the wrong nuts and get some square nuts to replace them. Make sure you get the right ones as it is a close fit in the slot.
  3. Sand or file the ridges on printed part the areas around where the screw holes are so that the T-nut doesn't collide with the printed part. This works ok, but it does affect visual quality - though it is hidden from view - but you know - it will pray on your mind - you will wake up in the middle of the night sweating just thinking about it.

Easiest option is Option 2.

Some other things I've learnt so far:

  1. Please beware if buying 24V hot-ends heated bed etc from eBay. I had both turn out to be 12V parts which would have drawn a lot of current and maybe made smoke signals. Grab a multimeter and double check.

  2. I have had a lot of problems with e-SUN PETG. Printed parts turn out brittle, regardless of temperature, dryness, nozzle size, extrusion% etc. It also is a bitch to get it to stick. It will only stick to the original build plate that came with my Ender-3. I have other no-name PETG that sticks and is not brittle.

  3. If you buy POM wheels from eBay, they may not come with shims between the bearings. I used a drill press to push the bearings out. If you can get small enough OD washers that stay within the boundaries of the central shaft, then adding the washer is a good idea, though your bearings may project a wee bit beyond the POM when reassembled. As I could not find small enough washers, I ended up removing the dust cover off the inside of the two bearings and reassembled - again by using the drill press to push them back in. If you use washers that are too big, then you will find that the bearings will bind. To test this, take your two bearings with your washer in-between, and using a suitable bolt and nut, dry assemble, tightening the nut right down. If the bearings rotate freely, then you are ok, if not, then maybe do what I did.

  4. Idler bearings - do the same as with POM wheels - make sure your washer is not too big (OD) - see point 3.

  5. Some bearings do not come packed with grease, rather, they just have a protective coating applied. You might like to consider pulling off the side dust plate and packing with grease. It will save you hours of effort later as you have to do major disassembly to get at some bearings to replace them when they bind up.

  6. If you use a V6 hotend, consider printing a small adapter to replace the 30mm fan with a 40mm fan. Much quieter and better cooling. I just superglued the adapter to the original shroud.

  7. While the firmware guys have spent a lot of effort to try to ensure the heater elements stay within safe limits, you can only go so far with ones and zeros. In my personal opinion, this does not go far enough and is not inline with general safety practices. I recommend installing thermal fuses at both the bed and the hotend to interrupt the power if it exceeds safe limits.

Good luck.

PS, And thanks to spauda01 for spending a lot of time and effort to share this design.

I used T-nuts (hammer nuts) and they worked perfectly. I bought them on purpose because I didn't like the square nut idea.

I don't know enough about marlin to pin down my problem but it seems that the D-BOT MARLIN file is corrupted. Every time i try to compile the D-BOT MARLIN file in arduino it throws an error at heater pin 0. It says something like heater pin 0 and ddr does not give a valid prepossessing token. I went to the marlin website and downloaded a clean straight version of MARLIN and it compiled and uploaded just fine onto my boards. Anyone know what is going on with this please help. Thanks

has anyone arranged a direct e3d titan aero extruder on this printer ??? i like it a lot and i want to use my titan aero extruder...i feel more
confident with direct drive...

Yeah, I recently installed an e3d Titan Aero on mine.

which stl file did you use???

Oh, I desined a new x-car and machined it out of aluminum. I used linear rails instead of v-wheels for my D-bot and couldn't find a x-carriage that met all my needs and I've been working on reducing the number of printed parts on my D-bot.

Hey guys

I am trying to setup my firmware. when i move X or Y they BOTH move. Is this normal? Z is fine.

When you say that they both move do you mean both motors, or is your extruder moving diagonally? Because both motors need to move in an XY core. If your extruder moves diagonally then you need to make sure that both X and Y motors are working together to move the extruder.

Hey there Orestis
All working fine. Old post but thanks for responding. :)
The problem was when i move X in a straight line Y was also moving and the print head did not move in a straight line. But it is all configured and working for a couple of months now :)
Thanks again.

Comments deleted.

Ok, I've ran my original D-Bot since Late 2016. A few items have stressed and I've reprinted them. This time in SLA using an Anycubic Photon. Used Green Translucent. 100% infill. Beautiful!

I was having Bed issues and noticed quite a few stress cracks in the PLA peices that my friend initially printed for me (.3 @75% infill). I use the HELL out of this printer.

What I've reprinted is the 4 Z-wheel guides for Bed, 4 3x3 plates, and since I'm redoing some parts of the Bed, I'll do them all. Including the 4 Bed Support and the 2 Lead Screw Brackets and 4 Corner Brackets.
After I get the bed finished, I'll print more orders. If I see zero issues, I'll continue to reprint EVERY part in SLA when I change over to 300x300. I THINK I'll be able to get the big top rear corner pieces... if not, I'll leave them.

As much as I love SLA, it can get expensive and hazardous. PLA+ has served me well over the years.

Hey guys, do you think that lines are a wobble issue? Do you think it can be improved and how?

Does your printer or the table it is on wobble like crazy while printing? What speed are you printing at? Can you wobble your extruder by hand when it isnt moving?

Hi, thx for your answer! The table is a rock and doesn't move, the printer is renforced and is supported by a wall so doesn't move too. I print a 60mm/s et no I can't wobble the head. I will reinforce it more with aluminium angles in the next days. I will try to slow down the printing speed and make some more tests.

I'm not sure exactly what would be causing the issue then. I'm having the same problem but my printer wobbles a lot on the rubber feet during printing and I think it is related to that. It is possible that it could be something to do with the belts

I'm unable to get the v profiles over here. Only normal extrusion profiles. Is there a remix that uses normal wheels (~23mm diameter), or is it possible to use the mini-v wheels on extrusions that have 6mm spacing?

Dear spauda01
Hi
Is it possible to have the model files of this project? I am just trying to change the wheels to the 25mm diameter ones and I would be glad if you could provide me the files so I can change the sizes. regards and good luck

Is it possible to take the parts from a Anycubic Prusa i3 to make this? or at least use some of the parts?

Comments deleted.

I'm looking to create a remix of the D Bot Extruder - Has anyone got an original design file I could use? Please - TIA

Hi all - I've just picked one of these up second-hand, and I'm having an odd problem...

The extruder is clicking/clunking every second or two - But only after it's been printing for a while.
I've switched the nozzle out for a brand new one, tightened everything, upped the temp a little bit, revelled a few times; but even when the bed is a few mm below the nozzle, it clunks.
It does NOT do so when I use the onboard options to extrude a cm or two of filament.

Any ideas, please?

Sounds like your experiencing heat creep

Have you tried fresh filament?

Where can I find the build guide / documentation? Thanks in advance!

Love the design and detail in documentation etc. You have made it quite easy to modify...Thank You!!!

I've finished a 300mm build for a while, it really have a big foot print, basically a whole lack table.
after 3 months I feel that with the same build volume I can reduce the frame size to make it more compact
has anyone tried it?

Hi there, I am having trouble uploading the provided sketch onto my Ramps 1.4 I am using latest version of Arduino and have U8glib library. I have an Anet A8 that uses the library just fine. I activated the #define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER line and When I go to upload I get the error
fatal error: utility/u8g.h: No such file or directory

include <utility/u8g.h>

Library is definitely added correctly and like I said, uploads fine for my Anet A8 Sketch.
Really confused as to why it won't work. I can upload a brand new blank Marlin sketch with LCD support, but don't want to have to manually add all the D-Bot Info. If anyone using the Full Graphics Display could provide me with their Config and AdvConfig pages it would be much appreciated.

I was having the same problem...I ended up redownloading the files, and used Arduino 1.6.3. For some reason other versions gave me problems. I also seemed to be installing the U8glib file wrong. I added the zip, but then you have to add library to it I believe. I'm a little new to this, so it was just user error on my part.

Im going to upgrade my Hypercube with some parts and as i was looking at banggood i found that you now can get igus like Polymer Linear Bearing at Banggood:

https://tinyurl.com/y7g2r6ys

hey another quick question, in printing everything out i noticed that the files for the part that rides the rails up and down that carries the bed are missing?

The z wheel guide that you need 4 of? each side is 2 parts.. not 1... so you may not notice the part required. Check out the build guide.

Hello everyone,

I'm in the process of loading the adrunio files on the board but when I press verify it stops at "ConfigurationStore.cpp" and pumps out the error " 'Kp' was not declared in this scope. "
I attached a file of the debug window too. If anyone could help it would be much appreciated!!

Hi,

I'm looking to build the D-Bot after owning a CR-10 for a few months. I love my CR-10; but the more I think about modding it to get a few little extras out of it; the more I think i should just invest the money into a new 3D printer. I want to build my next one just so I can get a better understanding of how they work; and after a lot of research the Core-XY model looks fascinating and fun to build and there seems to be a lot of community support as well which is nice.

I want to build a printer with a build volume of around 400mm cubed; possibly up to 500mm in the Z axis. This would be for larger prints (obviously) and am looking at going with a direct drive extruder/hotend system (if possible) for the D-Bot to print flexible filaments a bit easier. Not sure if the D-Bot suffers from some of the same problems as the CR-10 does using a bowden setup but it can be a pain. Will also probably add a ABL: sensor of some sorts as well just to make things a little easier

I can find plenty of resources to get the necessary materials thankfully; but what I am not sure of is what I would need to modify all in order to get the build volume that I want? I know I will need to get more material and change the length of cuts; but is there any build-configurator for the D-bot where a pre-set X or Y measurement means 'x length' material? Also for anyone else who may have gone larger; are there any recommended changes to the default build I should use?

Sorry for the newbie questions on this; just want to make sure I get it right. I probably will do this in stages starting with the frame and move on from there; still debating on what I want the brains of the beast to be.

Thanks in advance!

Sorry for the long post coming up, but I've got some questions and need some ideas.

I'm having issues with the weight of my build platform. I made an over sized version of the Dbot (500x500x500 build area) and I ended up going with a 3/8" solid aluminum plate for a build surface to keep it from drooping/sagging in the middle. The problem I'm facing is the weight and my puny little steppers. To combat this I gave up on the cantilevered set up, added wheels to the front and back, and was going to go with a 3 leadscrew set up, but I knew that with this much weight I was going to need more than a single motor could deliver. So I went with a 4 lead screw set up, using two leadscrews on each side, with separate endstops for each each side/pair of leadscrews. I'm getting a lot of binding and strain though and the motors are skipping and the belts are slipping.

I found a 3 leadscrew system that separates the motor from the leadscrews, using a smaller pulley on the motor and larger pulleys on each leadscrew, as well as better belt routing that should cut down on some strain. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2185911 I'm assuming the different pulley sizes acts as a kind of gear reduction, which should help keep the motor from slipping? I'm planning on combining this new idea with my current set up, so I'd have all 4 leadscrews still, two per motor, and with a endstop for each side to control each motor.

I'm completely open to suggestions though if anyone has a better idea for how to get this heavy beast working properly? I have lots of building experience, but I'm no engineer or designer so I'm hoping someone here can help me out.

Three lead screws and one nema 17 motor remix for C/D/J-bot
by oeyhaga

Alright so gear reduction doesn't apply to pulleys at all because they don't have teeth, so the pulleys being different sizes doesn't change the mechanical advantage any. Also, that's a really thick piece of aluminum for a bed, do you plan on heating it? Your best bet would either be upping the voltage on your steppers, or getting larger stepper motors.

Hi everyone, It's possible in the original firmware Marlin it's set up machine like a Cartesian Machine and not Core XY?? I need to know because I must load in Arduino a Fimware with a type LCD, I have see this mistake or it's ok Cartesian Machine?? I see that when I have upload the configuration file in the browser Marlin. Thanks

Hello, The electrical wiring drawing file shows only one motor connection for the Y-axis. Can anyone please share for dual Y motor and dual z motor connection pls....

There is no such thing as dual Y motor on a corexy printer. The diagram already shows dual z motor connections

Exceptionally designed and executed!

For Phil34. I had the same problem and researched and done this and it worked. In the "SdBaseFile.h" and the "SdBaseFile.cpp"
Change all the places that has "fpos_t" to "filepos_t" and it will compile.

Hello D-Bot builders and lovers, can we create a List of the best upgrades / best remixes of the "standard" d-Bot? I mean like the To-Do changes, not individual customizations to add other hotends etc.

My absolut must haves are (I am still building):
-> D-Bot bed leveling with big knob by rsergio https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2318849 to have a nicer possibility to level the heatbed
-> http://www.ratrig.com/cast-90-degree-corner-bracket-black.html in combination with 8mm Screws to make the frame stiffer

What are other must have changes to improve the D-Bot?

D-Bot bed leveling with big knob
by rsergio

-> To have more space to mount the heatbed: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2474608

D-Bot 2x1 plate with cut
by Stigern

Has anyone ever tried placing a rotary tool in place of the hotend? I'd like to cut some carbon fiber plates, but I'd prefer not to buy/print a whole new CNC machine for just a few cuts.

My D-Bot looks sturdy enough though, and my Smoothieboard should handle CNCing just fine. Any thoughts?

Comments deleted.

bonjour a tous
j'ai eu aussi beaucoup de difficulté avec le firmware 1.1.0 d-bot , étant novice en la matière et après de longues heures voir journées a détecter les différents problèmes rencontré je suis parvenue a refaire le firmware marlin 1.1.6 le dernier et la ma d-bot fonctionne enfin sans problèmes . je suis prêt a donner ma configurations h pour ceux qui ont des difficultés .

Bonjour
je n'arrive pas à installer le reprap full graphic smart controller (carte rouge).
il est bien allumé, le contraste a l'air de bien fonctionner. dans la gestion des librairies j'ai bien installé u8glib
si j'enlève : // à n'importe quel afficheur il ne compile pas, il y a une erreur: fpos_t

Arduino : 1.8.5 (Windows 10), Carte : "Arduino/Genuino Mega or Mega 2560, ATmega2560 (Mega 2560)"

In file included from sketch\SdFile.h:27:0,

             from sketch\cardreader.h:8,

             from sketch\Marlin_main.cpp:44:

SdBaseFile.h:38: error: using typedef-name 'fpos_t' after 'struct'

struct fpos_t {

    ^

In file included from sketch\Marlin.h:10:0,

             from sketch\Marlin_main.cpp:30:

c:\program files (x86)\arduino\hardware\tools\avr\avr\include\stdio.h:950:33: note: 'fpos_t' has a previous declaration here

extension typedef long long fpos_t;

                             ^

exit status 1
using typedef-name 'fpos_t' after 'struct'

Ce rapport pourrait être plus détaillé avec
l'option "Afficher les résultats détaillés de la compilation"
activée dans Fichier -> Préférences.

Si quelqu'un a une idée. Je précise que je ne suis pas bon en ce domaine, j'ai eu du mal déjà à faire les home, ça c'est ok mais après simulation impression je me suis rendu compte que l'image de repetier était inversée àl'impression.( je verrais plus tard)

MERCI
philippe

Hello
I can not install the reprap full graphic smart controller (red card).
it is well lit, the contrast seems to work well. in the library management I installed u8glib
if I remove: // any display it does not compile, there is an error: fpos_t

Arduino : 1.8.5 (Windows 10), Carte : "Arduino/Genuino Mega or Mega 2560, ATmega2560 (Mega 2560)"

In file included from sketch\SdFile.h:27:0,

             from sketch\cardreader.h:8,

             from sketch\Marlin_main.cpp:44:

SdBaseFile.h:38: error: using typedef-name 'fpos_t' after 'struct'

struct fpos_t {

    ^

In file included from sketch\Marlin.h:10:0,

             from sketch\Marlin_main.cpp:30:

c:\program files (x86)\arduino\hardware\tools\avr\avr\include\stdio.h:950:33: note: 'fpos_t' has a previous declaration here

extension typedef long long fpos_t;

                             ^

exit status 1
using typedef-name 'fpos_t' after 'struct'

Ce rapport pourrait être plus détaillé avec
l'option "Afficher les résultats détaillés de la compilation"
activée dans Fichier -> Préférences.
275/5000
If someone has an idea. I said that I'm not good in this area, I had trouble doing home, it's ok but after simulation printing I realized that the image of repeater was reversed to the impression. (I'll see later)

THANK YOU
philippe

ca doit certainement venir d'une incompatibilité entre les versions de l'IDE et de Marlin.
2 solutions :
•soit tu descends dans les version de l'IDE (edit: 1.0.6 ou 1.6.qqch...jme souviens plus)
•soit (et je conseillerais plutot ca) tu passes aux dernieres versions pr les 2 ; i.e IDE 1.8.x et Marlin 1.1.6

bonjour
bon ok je vais voir et tenter.
MERCI
phil

Salut
Petite precision au cas ou. Tu ne pourras pas copier-coller le config.h d'une version à l'autre. Tu vas devoir tout reconfigurer
Neanmoins je recommande qd mm de passer à la derniere version de Marlin plutot que galerer à chercher la bonne version d'IDE.

bonsoir
j'ai racheté une arduino , au mag d'électronique de Montpellier et là par magie tout fonctionne nickel.
j'ai juste modifié l'extrudeur pour y mettre une poulie MK7. (déplacement moteur, allongement logement blocage bowden et diamètre blocage diminué pour pouvoir le fileté en 10mm)
MERCI
encore quelques réglages et je pense que ce sera bon
MERCI

Super!
Pour ton premier mega, je devine alors que c'etait un clone chinois. Du coup c'etait probablement un probleme de bootloader, c'est tres frequent ac les clones. Si tu as un Uno de coté et qques jumpers tu peux le réécrire. Fais une petite recherche "burn the bootloader".

Comments deleted.

Hi everyone I built my D-Bot few month ago and i'm still stuck with Marlin configuration.

i doube check hardware diagaram and i'm prety sure ok.
that's a Homing problem:

  • Y home fine to max position and position are set to 300 (big model) on the full graphic screen.
  • Z home connectly too.
  • X refuse to Home, just mooving a little (like 10mm) on the right not even attending to reach any corner.

I'm goeng nuts
X_endstop plug on X_Min pin and X_Homing direction set to -1 (min) in Marlin.

is anyone add the issue ? 

Edit: if i configure the D-bot to be CoreYX instead of CoreXY issue appened on Y_axis
Ho and after homing done (with X axis random move) i can mouve it to the right and to the left. direction not revers.

Salut tout le monde,

le Homing de mon axe X ne se fait pas correctement. bien que les branchements soient bon, quand je lance le homing de X la tête bouge d'un ou deux centimètre vers la droite (peut importe la position ou le nombre de fois que le lance le homing) et n'essaie pas d'atteindre aucune extrémité de l'axe. une fois ce home fait, je peu bouger l'axe X manuellement dans les deux sens.

le endstop X n'arrête la course de la tête si je l’atteins manuellement (control avec SmartScreenFullGraphic). il est branché sur X-min et la dirrection de HOME_X est -1 (MIN) la position min pour X est 0.
pour Y la tete part bien vers le Max et une fois home sa position est set a 300.

j'ai essayé un peu toute les configuration sans succès. Si je passe en CoreYX le problème se reproduit pour l'axe Y.

PLEASE HELP! :'(

Bonjour, voici ce que je regarderais :

  • c'est bien #define COREXY qu'il faut utiliser
  • le câblage des moteurs (identiques sur X et Y) : il ne faut pas qu'une bobine soit câblée à l'envers
  • vérifier au multimètre le fonctionnement des EndStop. Il y a des EndStop qui sont fermés quand le contacteur n'est pas enfoncé et d'autres ouverts quand le contacteur n'est pas enfoncé. Pour les premiers il faut #define X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false (dans configuration.h de Marlin) sinon il faut #define X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true
  • Verifier que les EndStop sont bien définis (retirer les ' devant les #):
    '#define USE_XMIN_PLUG
    //#define USE_YMIN_PLUG
    '#define USE_ZMIN_PLUG
    //#define USE_XMAX_PLUG
    '#define USE_YMAX_PLUG
    //#define USE_ZMAX_PLUG
  • Verifier la direction des Steppers :
    '#define INVERT_X_DIR false
    '#define INVERT_Y_DIR false
  • Vérifier le HomeDir :
    '#define X_HOME_DIR -1
    '#define Y_HOME_DIR 1
    '#define Z_HOME_DIR -1

Hello, here's what I would look at:

  • it is #define COREXY to be used.

  • motor wiring (identical on X and Y): a coil must not be wired upside down.

  • check with the multimeter the EndStop. There are EndStop that are closed when the switch is not pressed and others open when the switch is not pressed. For the first ones you need #define X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false (in Marlin's configuration.h) else you need #define X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true

  • Check that the EndStop are well defined:(without ' before #)
    '#define USE_XMIN_PLUG
    // #define USE_YMIN_PLUG
    '#define USE_ZMIN_PLUG
    // #define USE_XMAX_PLUG
    '#define USE_YMAX_PLUG
    // #define USE_ZMAX_PLUG

  • Check the direction of the Steppers:
    '#define INVERT_X_DIR false
    '#define INVERT_Y_DIR false

  • Check the HomeDir:
    '#define X_HOME_DIR -1
    '#define Y_HOME_DIR 1
    '#define Z_HOME_DIR -1

OK for the records,

it was the endstop logic. I just revers it. despit it was exactly the same endstop as those on Z and Y axis, set X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false work for me.

let fixe the bed heatting i have a 3-32 Volt solenoid. it work once put not at the moment. it's not the RAMP1.4 wich is new. probably sometqhing in conf

Merci pour la réponse ^^

je vais refaire une passe de vérification sur cette configue + multimetre. mes 3 endstop sont identique et je ne suis pas en revers logic. a priori y a pas de raison.

je poste ma conf si cela ne donne rien

bonsoir
en ce qui me concerne j 'ai choisi core yx lorsque ça m'a fait à peu près la même chose, et du coup dans Repetier il n'y a que le Z qui est inversé. pas de pb d'impression nickel
bye

Two questions(sorry if it's iterative):

1- Are there any Documents/Slides/videos tutorial to assembly?
2-Is it possible to add auto leveling ability to this printer? do you have any plans to doing this?

If you click thing files it will note that a Build guide is downloaded in the files.
Just remember to extract all Bud.
Wayne Dye, Evansville Indiana

I am having serious issues with the printer not homing correctly in the y-direction. I do see in the build guide where this is a problem with the Marlin. Has anyone been able to fix this? Right now when the printer tries to home all it moves to the y-endstop but when the endstop is activated it does not stop moving in the y-direction. This is causing serious wear on my parts.

What version of Marlin are you running?
Does the X axis home?
Have you tested that the Y end stop state is correct and changes when activated with the M119 command from the console?

Hi,
This is a great work, I have a question, what's that brown part under the heated bed? did you use wood as bed plate? Should we order a laser-cutted plate for this printer?

Hi
The bed directly mounted to the V-slot frame. No need of additional plate or else.
The "brown part" is a cork sheet insulation (this is optionnal).

bonjour
sur votre schéma vous alimentez que la ramps.
Donc l'arduino est alimentée via la ramps et ne nécessite pas de l'alimenter avec le connecteur rond.
Il parait que si on branche l'usb et l'alimentation il faut enlever la dioded1. qu'en pensez vous?
Avez vous modifié quelque chose? si non je branche comme sur le schéma et je peux utiliser l'imprimante en mode autonome ou en mode connection pc?
merci
philippe

Hello
on your diagram you feed that ramps.
So the arduino is powered via the ramps and does not need to feed it with the round connector.
It seems that if you plug the usb and power you must remove the dioded1. What do you think?
Have you changed anything? if not I connect as in the diagram and I can use the printer in standalone mode or connection pc mode?
thank you
philippe

Salut
Oui l'arduino est alimenté à travers le Ramps. Inutile de retirer la diode si tu ne connectes que l'usb. En revanche mieux vaut l'enlever si tu veux alimenter l'arduino independemment (via le jack).
Pour mieux te repondre, tu peux alimenter le mega via le ramps ET te connecter à ton pc via l'usb sans le moindre risque. Tu n'as rien à modifier.

Salut
MERCI
donc je ne vais rien toucher.
MERCI
philippe

I'm surprised that no one has offrered a kit for this, yet.

For the frame, you can get it from RatRig. Pre-cut and M5 tapped already.

http://www.ratrig.com/3d-printing/v-slot-pre-cut-aluminium-rail-bundles/d-bot-3d-printer-aluminium-rail-bundle-natural-anodized300.html

The rest of the parts, well, that's the fun of it. Sourcing and printing...

Hello!
I'm working on this project and I can not control my printer with RepetierHost. I did all the mechanical and electrical assembly correctly, but I can not communicate when I try to control with the RepetierHost. I did not change the programming, can that be? I'm using the same parts of the manual.
Help me by cheating !!!

bonjour
je vais essayer de faire votre dbot. J'ai remarqué que vous avez relié le ventilateur de refroidissement de la buse ( hotend) avec le ventilateur de refroidissement de la pièce. peut- on les séparer? il est mieux de pouvoir commander le ventilateur de refroidissement de pièce séparément.
merci

Hello
I will try to do your dbot. I noticed that you connected the cooling fan of the nozzle (hotend) with the cooling fan of the piece. can we separate them? it is better to be able to control the piece cooling fan separately. Can you explain how can I do this and in the marlin
thanks

The positive wires are connected but the negative wires are separate and that is how each is controlled separately. Read page 53 of the build guide

bonsoir
OK j'ai vu
merci

good evening
OK I saw.
thanks

Bonjour, les 2 ventilateurs sont déparés : sur la photo, en bleu, il y a celui de de la hotend, et celui de derrière pour la pièce

bonjour
oui j'ai vu que les deux ventilateurs sont deux pièces à part mais les deux sont reliés par le même fil. J'aimerai commander le ventilateur de refroidissement de la piece à part: je coupe le ventilateur de la piece pendant deux ou trois première couche et pour l'abs, en fonction de la pièce soit je le coupe complètement ou je réduit le niveau de refroidissement.
merci

Hello
yes I saw that the two fans are two pieces apart but both are connected by the same wire. I would like to order the cooling fan of the piece separately: I cut the piece fan for two or three first layer and for the abs, depending on the piece either I cut it completely or I reduce the cooling level .
thank you

Peut être que le diagramme "D-Bot_Electrical_Diagram.pdf" est un peu à revoir c'est vrai, même si dans les faits ça devrait marcher car le ventilo de pièce est sur le D9 et que l'autre semble branché en permanence ... pour ma part j'ai mis une paire de fils pour un et une autre pour l'autre sachant que mon ventilo de HotEnd est en 5V (branché sur le 5v de la Ramps) et que le ventilo de pièce (branché sur D9) est en 12V.

Random question, I'm seeing some strange wavy artifacts in my bench prints seen here https://imgur.com/a/2AZ7T

I'm using a triple lead screw with a single motor setup, and it is rock solid. I have checked belt tensions and that all axis move freely.

The only thing I have noticed is that I make the XY carriage tension tight it seems to pull the carriage diagonally. So I have it just tight enough that this does not occur. When tensioning the carriage, do I need to tension the front and back individually or can I just attach the belts at the back of the carriage, and pull the belts to tension solely from the front side? This is how I have currently done it.

Hey Spauda01. What software did you use for that amazing electrical diagram? Was it Visio?

I'm really struggling to get my X & Y axes working properly and I'm posting here as a last resort. I've spent hours trying to troubleshoot them. Z & E are fine. #define COREXY is set in Marlin. X is wired normally, Y is reversed. I'm using TMC2100 drivers (so I have to invert the motor direction) on a MKS Gen 1.4 board. I've tried all variations of INVERT_X_DIR & INVERT_Y_DIR. Can anyone help me please? I think I've been troubleshooting it for so long I'm going crazy.

  1. Where's the origin? Is it supposed to be the back right, near the Y Max switch?
  2. After a G28 home, is the head supposed to sit at the back right or the front left?
  3. Should a positive Y movement be towards the front (stepper motors) or back towards the Y Max switch?

I've included photos of my wiring and a screenshot of some of my troubleshooting.

I'd really appreciate some help if possible :)

•Xmin to Xmax : left of the bed to right of the bed
•Ymin to Ymax : front of the bed to back of the bed
•Zmin to Zmax : up to down

so :
1- origine [0,0] is at front left
2-homing is at Xmin and Ymax = back left
3- positive Y motion is from front to back.

Why did you reverse the Y plug? all my motors are plugged the same way...anyway this isn't really important as you can change the firmware settings

This is probably a good opportunity for me to ask, why is the z endstop at the top of the printer? Wouldn't you want it on the bottom so that it's opposite the z probe?

I'm not sure to well understand your question, so sorry if I'm irrevelant.
To me get both Zmin endstop and Z probe is -thanks to the Z_SAFE_HOMING function- redundant, and so useless. I only use the Z probe.
Also when the bed is at the bottom of the printer, it is the Z max position...so I'm affraid that it would generate a lot of issues.

Thanks for your response, it's certainly a lot of help. I reversed the Y pins because in the electrical diagram for the d-bot, it's wired that way. I think my motors have a strange wiring configuration with the motor poles, I'll open one of them up and have a look.

After homing to the back left, does your head automatically move to the front left afterwards or do you have to issue G1 X0Y0 after homing to get it there? In the past when I've homed and tried to move Y in a positive direction, it keeps moving into the Ymax limit switch which I thought was strange.

oups i missed that detail on the diagram :$ my bad.
As you might know it on bipolar stepper important thing is to get the good pairs of wire ; looking your photos, everything looks good.

Going Y+ after homing would means going beyond the Ymax, so motion logic is ok but it should be killed by the limits.
Does the homing goes ok? If you run it with the carriage at center, does every axis react the good way?
If yes your issue must comes from the firmware. Probably the software limits or manually set the homing coordinates [0,200] or [0,300] depending on your bed size...?

I don't go through [0,0] at any time, I home at [0,300] (300x300mm bed) and then run the G-code. As it use absolute coordinates it doesn't need to run throught the [0,0] position.

Thanks for your help mate! I got it all working :) I changed MANUAL_Y_HOME_POS 200

Now it homes to the back left of the bed. Is there any way to get the head to move to the origin [0,0] (front left) after homing? I have to issue a G1 X0Y0 manually in order to get it to go to the origin.

great!

Hmmm I'm not the biggest expert but no I see no better way for marlin firmware than G1 or G0 command....manually send it, or store it in the start g-code script.
You may be can use the park position for this (M125).... Or the pause command (M0) if you have a script for it

I've built one of the these from spauda01's excellent build plans ... and fine tuning it ...

.. just curious - is there any way to modify this to use Independent Dual Extruders ??

What are the chances of getting a Z nut holder with the center in the same plane as the Z stepper shaft? It would be great if the width of the mounting would allow it to also be mounted in a plane perpendicular to the X stepper mount in a corner.

Someone give me the step by step assembly of the heated table? Which glue to use to secure the cork sheet? Help me

Before I assembled my printer, I examined the 3 wheel carriage for the Z axis and thought it was a good idea so i printed one and installed them in the original assembly. Now that I have it together and have had a chance to study the forces involved, I've decided it isn't such a good idea. The forces are not like the x and y carriages which are completely down. With the lead screws off the forces are inward on the top back wheel and toward the back on the bottom lower wheel if there are 4. A little extra force downward on the bed actually forces the back bottom wheel off the rail because the distance of the third wheel is too close to the other two wheels. Even with 4 wheels the vertical spacing between the wheels needs to be greater but the benefits of that setup outweigh the problems of the 3 wheel version. The 4 wheel version just needs a better adjustment system. An extra 20 to 30mm spacing vertically would be a blessing too.

Exactly. I began to doubt the 3-wheel-solution for the Z-axis, and only for this axis, because the load is always in one direction.
And lo and behold, discovered yesterday that indeed only 2 wheels are used, up as well as down, The upper back one and the front middle one. The lower back one was completely free from the rails, also when going up with the bed, despite my having adjusted the pressure not long ago.
In which case the 3-wheel solution is worse then the original, because the distance between those 2 wheels is smaller then with the original, so I am now considering whether to use the original with only 2 wheels, or to use all 4.
Not because they ever have any work-related function but only to protect the lead screws from when I accidentally lift the bed, in which case those 2 active wheels want to come free form the rails. Anyway, while the problem still looks for a better solution the originals go back in.
I don't see any reason any more to want to have an adjustment for the wheels either, exactly because the 2 actor-wheels are pressed to the rails by the load of the bed, also when going up and the other 2, when mounted, don't need to be forced on the rails, where they have nothing to do, except for standing guard against stupid moves from my side.
I discovered your comment today, when looking around for solutions. Aways nice to see a confirmation of ones thoughts. ;-)
I was already thinking of a solution with a still greater vertical distance between those 2 actors, but do not understand why you feel that a better adjustment system would be necessary. What am I missing here?

You're right, at first I put "3 wheels" everywhere: X, Y and Z. And I came back, now I put 4 wheels with a system of tension by screw, and with wheels in polycarbonate that does not deform.

Have you noticed any wear/ scuffing on the aluminium extrusion caused by the metal bearings? I like the design, but would like to be sure it will last. Thanks.

Bearings do not directly touch the extrusions

Thanks for explaining that - I have just found AK Erik's construction of his C-Bot and the Delrin Mini V Wheel that I thought were bearings. I am inspired to build one of these as my little Geetech Prusa I3 has seen better days. Regards.

After a year of printing .
1) I cant find a solution regarding stringing with petg. I have retraction of 5mm and retraction speed of 100mm/s and I have a LOT of stringing.
I was thinking about converting to direct but I am afraid about the print quality drop , also I have another printer that can be switched to direct in minutes in case of problematic filaments. Also the new compact nema motors weight 140 g , not a lot.

2) I am trying the cable chain on X Y axis . It looks cool and it easier to remove / add cable vs a corrugated solution but I am quite worried about the extra weight and the printing rail.

I would like to know what guys think about it , any suggestions?

Enable the wipe while retracting and enable the retract before wipe to at least 10% (I use 20%). These settings are located under the printer settings in SLIC3R. Also, the 5mm retract might be a little severe for Bowden if you are using an all metal hot end. You run the risk of clogging if you are using PLA. Try 3 and a retraction speed of 45mm/sec. I hardly print anything other than petg and have no stringing at all..

Hello,
I am thinking about making a very large version of this printer. I am thinking about 550x550x650mm build volume. Because this is more than twice as large as the original would this work at this size? What changes do I need to make? Will it work with E3D Chimera bowden? And finally would you recommend this or the C-Bot?
Thanks,
Taylor Dettling

What bowden fitting are you using on the top of the extruder?

You put a state solid relay with 30A, but have any problem if i use a relay with 50A?

No. I used a 100a relay ;)

I find a relay with 10A, have any problem if i use him?

No. You need to rate the relay based on the supply used and the draw from the heatbed. Considering the BoM asks for a 40A.. 10A might be a tad small. Also the quality of the relay will determine if it will go up in smoke sooner or later :P

ok. So, I'm using heated bed 12V and a power supply with 30A and 12V. What is the relay with the smallest current range I can use?

You need to know what your heat bed draws(amps or watts).. that will determine it.

I followed the build guide. Making mine a 300x300mm. The The table doesn't line up with the supports. Its to wide...?

320MM from screw to screw on the bed.. Your design has the supports at 306MM

[Y-Axis Issue]

My printer is have one issue. It moves forward to home y-axis.

I've tried to change the config file to:
// ENDSTOP SETTINGS:
// Sets direction of endstops when homing; 1=MAX, -1=MIN
define X_HOME_DIR -1
define Y_HOME_DIR -1
define Z_HOME_DIR -1

I've tried inverting the y-axis in the repetier-host.

Nothing is working. Help please!

If everything is the same parts and setup as the build guide then you should double check your wiring between the y endstop and the control board

The end stop works fine. The problem is when I press home, the y-axis moves forward instead of backwards.

It sounds like you need to invert your stepper motor: INVERT_Y_DIR true in configuration.h

I am new to 3D printing ,I have finished building the printer and I have hooked everything where is it supposed to go. What would be a safe way to move the axis without breaking anything?

Just followed the steps in the codeing part and i clicked the verify button but an error came up:

sketch\temperature.cpp:565:46: warning: extra tokens at end of #ifdef directive

 #ifdef THERMAL_RUNAWAY_PROTECTION_PERIOD && THERMAL_RUNAWAY_PROTECTION_PERIOD > 0

Any ideas on how i can fix this or if its even a problem?

I hope someone can help me with my problem. I have everything built and ready to go. Only issue is the homing and the moving on the axis. Z axis works well when moving it but when I home it it just rams into the endstop and keeps on trying to move, same with the X and Y. Also on the X and Y when trying to manually move them I can only do it in .1 increments or else it either freezes up, moves really jerky or moves really jerky AND moves both X and Y when I only ever tried to move one direction. Hope this makes since and I hope someone else has had this problem and fixed it so I will be able to too. Ive been working on this thing on and off for the better part of 6 months and I really just want to get it going so I can start making all the cool stuff I see on this site, not to mention have a bad ass 3D printer.

thank you!
Jordan

I got 9% discount at banggood here:

http://tinyurl.com/ybevy9hs

with this coupon:

11annv9%

Good Afternoon, Please forgive my Noob Comment, I'm have build a few 3d printer like the MPCNC and MakerFR, I'm sure I'm messing it up somewhere ;XD, so after I load the firmware to Arduino it pass the verify part, and goes to upload the firmware over to mega2560 board however the screen power up, But no content on the screen. As a test I loaded other firmware and it powers up with the content. any Idea would be much appreciated

Thanks advance

The default dbot firmware has no settings for a screen

Is it possible to add this, and if so, how?

Spauda01,

thank you

Unbelieavable cool Design!

I orderd all parts today, and hope im able the assemble it soon!

I was luckyl and got up to 11% on almost every part on Banggood:

https://goo.gl/9W9CmA

Thank you soooo much! :)

Comments deleted.

All 5 motors (X,Y,Z1,Z2,E) of my D bot move in only one direction. What should I do?

Double check the wiring diagram for your motors compared to the motors in the bom and the Dbot electrical diagram

Thanks...i tried..but no result
i have motors wiring as follows:
A+ : Green
A- : Black
B+ : Red
B- : Blue
on the ramps 1.4, the connection for motor is 2B,2A,1A,1B
so how should be the pin connections

Comparing your motor wiring colors to mine I think you need

2B green
2A black
1A red
1B blue

That would be the order for the E0 and Z pins, the X and Y connector are reversed as shown in the Dbot electrical diagram

Comments deleted.

I am having issues with my print layers shifting. I cannot figure out what is causing it. I do not believe it is the belt slipping, but it may be from the drivers overheating or the head moving too fast. I am not sure. Has anyone had similar issues or know how to troubleshoot this issue?

Alright I have determined that the printer only shifts layers if the part has travel moves. As long as the part dpesnt have travel moves it prints fine. Does anyone know why this is?

Did you found any solution to your problem? I tend to have same problem myself.

Your travels might be too fast

After upload dbot firmware, I have problem in testing z axis movement. I use repetier to move z axis down is ok but when I tried to move up (negative z move) z axis,the axis still move down. Anyone have experience with this issue? Thanks in advance for your help.

What do you have your Z axis Vref set to? I had to increase mine to provide more current to the stepper drivers since it is one driver and two steppers.

You're right, I have to increase driver's Vref to 1.1V to make it move up correctly. Thanks

@spauda01

I am having trouble with the heated bed as well. I can turn it on with the Repetier-Host controls, and both the RAMPs light and SSR light come on. When I try to turn it off, both lights go off, however the bed continues to heat.

Checking with a multimeter, both the on and off commands seem to be sent to the SSR. The voltage changes from a fluctuating number to a constant 12V when the command is sent, and back to a fluctuating number when disabled. Yet the bed continues to heat.

I saw your advice many comments below to check the amperage in this instance, but I'm unsure of what I should be looking for.

Also, did you use a cable to connect the LED controller to the LEDs, or cut the two female ends and wire them together directly?

Update: Swapping out the DC - AC Solid State Relay for a DC - DC relay solved the issue. Discovered my error from this post:

https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/2093/how-can-i-stop-a-solid-state-relay-from-latching-up

Check that the tabs of the mosfets on the ramps board are not touching eachother and no wiring is touching the tabs since they are live. I wired the led strip up to a 4 pin connector and plugged that into the led controller

I found a bit of solder connecting two of the mosfet connectors underneath the RAMPs. Removing it only turned off the red light next to the extruder light that turned on with the power.

Removing all of the wiring and reconnecting it had no effect. Is there another way of testing for what might be the issue?

It might comes from the SSR which stays on even without the on command. But instead of testing voltage after the SSR -which is dangerous-, if I were you I would simply test the Ramps bed output with the extruder heater. If it works fine with the extruder heater, then it will mean that your SSR is bad quality and has to be replaced.

It does seem to be the SSR. After wiring the extruder heater to the RAMPs bed output I was able to control the temperature.

I also tried wiring the bed directly to the RAMPs bed output. The 14 awg wires did not exactly fit well in the smaller slot, but I could control the temperature. I get the impression this is not a permanent solution and a new SSR is necessary.

Edit: I'm thinking the problem may be because the SSR relay on the Bill of Materials was unavailable and I purchased a different one. Except instead noticing it was 40a, I bought a 25a one:

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-SSR-25-3-32V-24-380V-Solid/dp/B0087ZTN08/

Is it beneficial to go higher than 40a in any way?

What voltage (AC/DC?) does your bed take? The SSR that you linked to is for AC switching. "Output voltage: 24-380V AC"

This one is hard to beat if you need DC output:
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_30&products_id=288

I'm so close to being done however when ever I plug in my printer, the heated bed heats up without direction. How can I fix this?

I had the same issue and it was due to incorrect wiring on the Solid State Relay. I also did not notice the small red jumper cable on the wiring diagram connecting the 11a to 5a on the RAMPS board.

I found some other useful wiring diagrams online by googling "3d printer solid state relay wiring" and looking at the images.

Does anyone know of a good enclosure design that would work well for this printer?

Hi All,
I just finished the mounting of a big d-bot (600x300x460) and I am experimenting an strange issue, the two Z motors move to the same rotation in one Z direction but in the oposite rotation when the oposite Z direction, so the bed twists. I am astonish! The connections are made completely equal for the two motors.
Additionally when I click for a X movement, the head does not move in the X direction, moves in X sometimes and in Y sometimes, also with the Y movement happens the similar problem. I cannot understand where the problem is.
Anyone have experimented a similar problem? It seems that the connections are according the Spauda manual, (that is excellent)
Thanks in advance if anyone gives me feed-back. Sorry for disturb!

If you are using the same motors connected the same way (at least for each phase) then it is not possible. So I presume that when you lower the bed everything goes ok but when you raise it, only one side goes up while the other one doesn't move. If it is acting this way it means that your motors doesn't get enough current/torque. Did you tune your drivers? especially for a wide and/or heavie bed you'll need a good motors and drivers combo.

Thanks 1sPiRe.
The mystery has been resolved. I investigate what you said about the movement towards up and low in order to see the differences and discover the problem it was a cable issue in one motor.
The problems with X and Y, persists. I don't know.
Thanks to everybody.

Sounds like maybe you picked CoreXZ instead of CoreXY for your motion control...

Thanks David for your answer. Yes is the same effect, but how can be possible? the two Z motors are connected equally to the two 4x pins Z area in the Ramps 1.4. It´s crazy!
I used two different Ramps to double check the problem and it persists. so is not the board.
Any recommendation to start from zero?
I am no so expert in electronic, but the connections are so easy that I cannot understand!
Thanks for your helping.

I can't say with any real certainty, I'd need to see how it's wired up, the firmware and configuration, etc. I'm probably not the best person to answer RAMPS questions (I haven't used a RAMPS board in years), but if the motors are connected to two different leads then it sounds like a software problem.

On a ramps board the two Z outputs are tied to the same physical traces and driven by one stepper driver

This is the most strange thing, I cannot understand where is the issue,
Anyway thanks for your comments.

In hardware? I have an old RAMPS clone for another printer that has 5 driver slots.. Are you saying that one of those driver slots is unused?

That's for an optional second extruder

Will increasing or decreasing the force on the idler bearing on the extruder help prevent grinding? If so which?

If you are grinding filament it is because the filament isn't flowing through the hot end quick enough. This could be due to several reasons: the nozzle may be clogged or partial clogged, nozzle is too close to the print bed, the hot end isn't hot enough, you are trying to extrude too fast, or the extruded steps per mm is set incorrectly

I am having some issues with my Y axis endstop. No matter what i do to the 20mm M5 bolt, it can not seem to trigger the endstop.

Large washers can do the job.

Okay. Thank you

If the bolt doesnt touch the switch then bend the metal switch tab forwarrd

Okay. Thank you

I am having issues with my heatbed. I have it set to 70 for the first layer and 0 for other layers in Slic3r, however, it is not turning off automatically like it should be.

@Spauda01 I am also having issues with the Z-Axis. It is only moving half as much as it should be. I tell it to move 10mm and it only moves 5mm. I have tried to find the code in Config.h that defines steps per unit for the motors but cannot.

I resolved this issue changing the DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT parameters to a double value than the original.

Hi Taylor,
Did you solve the issue related with the Z movement?
I have the same problem. When I order 100mm, the Z-axis moves 50. I checked the three jumpers pins are correctly connected under each stepper chip.
To me, also X and Y have the same undesirable effect. The movements are half of the expected.

Double check that you have jumper pins under each stepper chip to set the proper microstepping

Question. The hotbed frame. Why not extend it to the front, and have it slide on those uprights also? WOuldn't that make it more stable, or do you not notice an issue at all?

No issues at all. If you extend the front out you are just adding unnecessary mass and now you have to deal with aligning 16 wheels on the uprights

I have no experience in aligned wheels to the V-slot rail so I don't know how difficult that is to do. The mass is only moving in one axis and at a very slow rate; for a print of average size. Intuitively it seems like extending to the front would help with rigidity and help maintain the level. Can anyone chime in here?

I assume the K rail / Z screws are positioned to lift the bed system at its center of gravity. Any help on what this position is for 300x300 build?

http://i.imgur.com/7pNXACd.png

I need help figuring out why my extruder will not heat up. I have troubleshooted and researched this problem for about 3 days, but have been unable to solve it. I have determined that the heater cartridge is good, and I have tested it with another one just to be sure it wasn't the problem. I also know that the connections at the Ramps board are getting the required 12V when I turn the extruder on, and when I check the ends of the wires with nothing attached to them I get 12V as well, however, when I attach the hotend I no longer get any power off the wires. Why is that? I checked to see if decoupling was the problem and I don't think it is. The Marlin says that it expects a 4 degree Celsius increase in 40 seconds, which should be correct. I have no idea what the problem is, and I haven't found anything helpful online. Everything else on my printer works fine, the motors work normally, the bed heats, etc. Only the hotend does not heat at all.

Have you tested the thermistor? swap the hot end and bed thermistor and heat up the bed and see if the temp labeled hot end rises

I am having issues with my X and Y endstops. When the printer homes in the x and y directions at the same time it homes in the X direction first, and then in the Y. However, once the printer hits the Y endstop it moves off the Y and then hits it again and it does this about 20 or so times rapidly until it just stops. It does the same thing for both the X and Y endstops once the Y switch is hit. It only does this when homing both at the same time, such as at the beginning of a print. When homing individually they work fine.

Yeah I figured out I just had some wires flipped, simple mistake.

@spauda01 I noticed you have a video on your channel with the TMC2100 drivers. I am installing them now. What voltages did you set for your X and Y?

Pro tip - If you have your limit switches plugged in wrong it will cause your ramps 1.4 board not to power up.

Is there any reason that the bed is using 2040 extrusions? I'm currently trying to upgrade my already built d-bot.

Comments deleted.

I'm working on this project and i made some changes. For example i changed print volume to 40cmx40cmx40cm What i wanna ask is should i change stepper motor or power supply to stronger one? you know.. will i need more power because i change the dimension?

You don't need to change the stepper motors for the larger build volume, but you probably want something better than at 12v PCB heated bed at that size. Depending on your choice there you may need to run a 24 volt power supply.

what is the bed that you have in the picture?

Comments deleted.

I installed a 5x Smoothieboard - I setup for double stepper motors - gamma is a slave to epislon
Can someone send me their config file showing the working stepper motor config for
epislon_step_pin gussed at 2.8
epislon_dir_pin guessed at 3.13
epislon_en_pin gussed at 4.29
I have commented out the gamma step, dir and en entries
My Z axis just hums with no movement

Is there a list of how many of each printed part is needed? Can't seem to find one.

The first part of the file name indicates the copy count.

Oh, god. How obvious :D Thanks.

I got a problem homing y.
All the axis works ok, only problem is homing y - it goes away from endstop switch!?
Is there a simple solution that i missed!?

I have the same problem.
Did you find any solution ?

Probably something wired backwards if you used the default firmware

I used a D-bot_Marlin firmware.
I will try to change the wiring of a motor .
There's nothing in the firmware to invert Y only ?

If you used the stock firmware and wired it according to the wiring diagram it shouldnt go backwards so double check the wiring and pin connections on the ramps board

The homing direction can be changed in the firmware.
Y_HOME_DIR should be what you want to look for.

Any thoughts as to why my (genuine) e3d v6 hot end mounts a bit loose? When performing the steps listed on page 35 of the build guide, the hot end can still move up/down a few mm. Certainly this is an issue.

that happend to me with a clone. not with the genuine one though.

I have been working on building this printer for a while now, and I am just getting to the testing stage. I had everything wired up and was using A4988 motor drivers, however both of the z motors would not run, I was having stalling issues. So I switched the driver for the z motors to a DRV8825 motor driver, however, now my z motors are not doing anything at all. Does anyone know what I am doing wrong? Any help is appreciated.

I flipped the driver around and put it in the other way, however, it seems as though it is backwards compared to the other drivers, but it is working now. Both motors are working, but it still seems like I am having a jamming issue, and the motors are making all kinds of high pitched squealing noises which I am sure are not good. It may just be because the lead screws are not lined up properly. If anyone has any advice it would be appreciated.

I always feels stupid looking at these. Can you buy a premade and programed pcb and just throw it in here or with minimal adjustments?

"these" are not for the faint of heart, "these" are for makers.

Comments deleted.

Hey, first thanks for this project plus the very good and precise manual.

Actually im buying all stuff for building, i got everything except screws and the extrusions.

I have a 200x300 bed. I am right, that if i order profiles for 300x300, i can easily install my smaller bed, and can upgrade later easy too?

Best regards from germany!

I did just that but if you do, then you want to set your z axis closer to the center of the platform. I installed it at the dimensions for the 200x300 and now I have to try and shift the z axis after all my wiring has been hidden in the split loom. I built this first for a friend and there are a lot of little things that I will do different when I build mine.

Thanks for the answer, already ordered the profiles for 200x300 heatbed. I think I will be fine with the size:)

Hi,
I am currently buying items for this printer off the bill of materials, but i cant seem to find any sort of springs. Any recommendations? please leave either links or specific measurements thank you

Build guide, page 33 and 52

Hi,
If you have problem with your Z axes (motor stall), try the DRV8825 driver instead of the A4988. My chineese a4988 was over estimate the current through the step motor.

The current for the Z driver is twice the current of the X or Y axes because there are two motor.

Just to let you know all what problem I met and how I solved it.

Gibt es hier deutsche die den D-Bot gebaut haben? Wo habt ihr da V-Profil und auch die restlichen Komponenten gekauft?

Danke

In germany (and belgium/netherlands) the cheapest source is watterott.com (They get their supply from the portugese company ratrig and order in batches).

Hi.
1st of all a big thank you for sharing this. i Love it. and i am going to build one.
i am wondering if it wound not be better to exchange the Corner Bracket with a Metal one.

Are there more parts that can be replaced by stock steel or alloy parts?

Has anyone made the D-Bot bigger jet?

Thank You

I am in the testing and troubleshooting phase now, and while manually moving each direction in Octoprint, the X is reversed. a G0 X10 moves towards home. G0 X-10 moves away. Y and Z are both moving in the correct directions, however, a G0 Z10 will only move one motor, but homing z will move both z motors. Is there a way to reverse the X? Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

change your stepper driver motor wires.
that way you can change the direction

Im building this CoreXY but im going to use 3mm instead of 1.75mm
Any chance that you can make a design for the extruder 3.00mm,
Thx

small heads up for any UK dbotters, after a lot of searching the only place i could find that let me buy odd numbers/singles of screws at a good price is https://www.orbitalfasteners.co.uk/ the parts plus shipping came to about £25~

all the other places i checked out were either ridiculously expensive to the mr metric quotes (up to 80 quid on one site) or minimum order for each part was 50 pieces which was no good when you only needed two.

So finally got mine built. Had trouble with the 2 Z axis but finally upped the voltage on the motors and now they work great. I put a Titan Aero on it also, so nice to have the direct drive and e3d hotend. Everything is printing very nicely. I have only taken it up to 100mm/s speed on my prints.
Will try more tests at higher speeds to see if it can maintain the quality also. Had to do quite abit of fine tuning for Simplify3D but I think its just about where I want it. Will post pics sometime in the Made area once I get a Nice Ramps box made for it.

Yep, I had to increase my ref voltage on the Z axis as well. If you think about it the stepper driver limits the amount of current going to the stepper motor. With two stepper motors running off of one driver the available current is shared between the two.

Hi all.
Has anyone got a simplify3d profile I can try please?
Thanks

No one got a simplify3d fff file for me try?

I use simplify3D but I do not know how or where to find my profile to send you

Hi dude. In simplify3d, go to File then export your FFF profile. You can send it to deuse_x@hotmail.com please
Also it's good to make a backup of you fff profile just in case.

I will try it when I get it as see what mistakes I am doing. Thanks very much dude :)

I have a 300mm x 300mm x 3mm aluminum bed. Right now I have an equally sized MK2 PCB heater at 12v. Roughly this configuration comes out to about 100 watts which is not really adequate. Can anyone recommend a DC heater that will let me get to 100 - 120 Celcius? I do have a 24 volt DC 20 amp power supply I could use as well. Or should I just switch over to an AC voltage silicone heater?

Update: I just did a PID tune @ 40C and it takes about 8 minutes to get to 40C from 25C.

hi spauda01!

i'm running through the bom, checking part availability and building my order when I found the automationdirect stepper motor link is not working as the source seems to have updated the part to the KL17H248-15-4A motor instead of the kl17h247.

should i run with the KL17H248-15-4A?

this is a bad@ss machine and i've gotta have it.

The motors in this link are not rated for 12V but 4.2V do we need to purchase different motor drivers for these?

These are fine. For stepper motors, the maximum voltage can be calculated by multiplying 32 by the square root of the inductance (L) in millihenries (mH).

Vmax = 32 * SQRT(L)

So for this particular stepper the inductance is 4.8mH which equates to a max voltage of 67.88 volts. I'm not saying you should run these at that voltage but in theory you could. I have built a few CNC routers and during my research found this link as a good reference for explaining stepper motors. http://www.geckodrive.com/support/step-motor-basics.html

thanks man!

i shall click add-to-cart!

How did you get the bowden tube stabilizer clip to work? The mounting system for the hotend doesn't let it sit flush with the top of the hotend.

it goes on the extruder side, not the hot end side

I see, I was worried my retraction issues were from the clip on the hotend side bobbing up and down but I'll put it on the extruder.

is there a plan/design/instructions to use a single stepper nema 23 for the z axis? (move the bed up and down)

Any idea why if the Y axis is setting on the Y home switch, the X won't home with auto home?
If I back it off the Y.. it all homes normally.

I did have the same weird homing behavior until I changed the firmware to marlin RC8. I have no clue why it act this way.

The BOM has a dead link to mr. metric site. Square nut link on row 55 has changed.

If someone has the size info on the M5 square nut, please tell. There are quite a few different M5 square nuts.

square thin nuts din562

thank you for fast response! And thank you for this project.

Hello! Wanted to know about the printer's programming.

this kind of questions never lead anywhere. you have to be more spesific, i know you can do better than last post.

What retraction setting would be a good starting point. I love my dbot but am getting some stringing

About 4.5mm, 40mm/s

Hey guys! I've almost finished assembling my D-Bot and I'm at the stage of runnings the belt. I've hooked up the belts to the belt clamps as shown in the guide (http://tinypic.com/m/jt6uk3/1), but when I run the belts around to the pulleys, it appears that the belt is twisted around the wrong way. Are you supposed to twist the belt? Here's some pics of my belt orientation: https://goo.gl/photos/5vjVUBE1egrchdNK6

Can anyone advise if I've done something wrong or if I need to twist the belt? I can't imagine that we'd have to twist the belt...

No twisting needed, the teeth should face the insides of the two motor pulleys, look at the main pictures

Got it. I started from the rear plate and assumed the flat part of the belt ran along the bearings on the rear idler. Thanks for your help spauda01!

Anyone switch out the printed wheel spacers for metal?

I thought i saw it somewhere but cant recall what the dimensions on the spacer are.

Comments deleted.

Yep, I bought mini V wheels which came with spacers and shims and did the same as Cyrrus.

I was clued in to these:
http://www.aluminumspacers.com/spacers-by-metric-hole/5mm-hole/mas8-5-7

They work perfectly without washers or shims.

Perfect, thank you.

Yep. I bought the 1mm shims and 6mm spacers. You'll need 1x shim and 1x spacer either side of the wheels. Just make sure the shims are in direct contact with the bearings and not the spacers since the spacers are too wide and will stop the bearings from turning. I also put a metal shim between the bearings inside the wheel.
Shims:
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/v-slot-Precision-shim-stainless-steel-50pcs-per-bag-size-8-5-1-openbuild-machine-M5/239208_32623096567.html?spm=2114.12010612.0.0.Zyz2Cd
Spacers:
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Aluminum-Spacers-6mm-10-5-6mm-Lot12-Free-shipping/239208_32618693794.html?spm=2114.12010612.0.0.rm9cWS

Sourcing a BOM for a D-Bot now and this whole project and thread is a fantastic resource.

Just for clarification, using the print carriage as an example below. you basically replaced each of the green printed spacers with an aluminum spacer and a shim positioned between the wheel and the spacer?

http://imgur.com/uT9ksT2

Trying to estimate how many spacers and shims I'll need. I am using the three-wheel mods posted elsewhere.

Thanks

Yep.
• Printed spacer becomes 1x 1mm Al shim and 1x 6mm Al spacer. Make sure the shim, not spacer, is in contact with the bearing.
• Printed shim becomes 1x 1mm Al shim
• Added 1x 1mm Al shim between the MR105ZZ bearings within the wheels.

Wow, the cable management is simply beautiful and clean. Well done.

Do the X,Y&Z stepper motors have to be 76oz-in? I have 3x 17HS5415 and 1x 17HS8401 from an old printer. Will I at least get away with lower speeds?

Do you have to use Mini wheels for this or can you use the standard v wheels?

Robert

The STL files are designed for mini wheels, but you can always redesign the sizes for standard sizes or purchase the OpenBuilds gantry sets.

link is broken on the nema 17 motors. anyone have the specs/model number?

Hi,
I am building on your design and I want to make 400x400x400 or 600height is it possible with this frame?
Railing lengths required for a build based on a 400x400mm bed?
Regards,
Ivan

Hi

Hi

I just finish the build. But result for z-axis is not good. When I homing z axis heatbed  is tilting at the tip to much. So calibration is change at the tip, always. Any solution to stop this tilting.

Can this printer print .1mm layer height?

has anyone had issues with the eBay ramps 1.4 that is linked in the bill of materials? is there a better one?

yes it can.

duet wifi, MKS smoothie.. plenty options out there.

Hello,
I recently finished constructing the printer however I seem to be having problems with the X-Y motion. I'm new to 3D printing so I'm having diffculty pinpoiting the problem and if it's a Hardware or a software issue.

The X-Y carrige will move the full 300mm but in the interface it states it moved about 150mm give or take.
The print never starts 100% in the center but if often near the center.
I've been able to print the 20mm Test cube fairly well but when I try to print the benchy the layers are often off in groups. The most problematic section is the arch on the print where it will Zig-zag back and fourth.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

if you find the movement is consistently 2x more then what the interface states, then maybe micro stepping setting is wrong, check http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,122029. If inconsistently then stepper motors are skipping, need to adjust stepper motor driver voltage, use a good multi-meter!

Is it better to buy 196 x M5 x 12mm screws instead of the 196 x M5 x 10mm?

I dont think 12 will fit

I managed to do it that way. You need to add 2 washers per screw, which is fine if you want to make the second washer a spring washer. Just make sure that the spring washer is between the screw head and the flat washer.
BTW, any hole with a bore that was intended to house an M5x10 screw will still need an M5x10 since the washers won't fit. This also applies to the corner brackets and 1 screw on the inner side of each rear idler.
Just a heads up though, this is overkill. I just happened to have the parts.

Hi, where can i find the build cuide?! Pls

In with the download files.

Hello :)

I have a question, should I have 3DPrinter before build this one? Actaully I am thinking to make such a thing like this and its going to be my first project

So for printable parts I should have it before build it right?

The Spauda's build guide is the best I have red. Read it and if you feel it's clear enough for you go for it!
For the printed parts you can get it from 3DHubs as Uglybob said, or you can also find sets on Egay.

Thanks a lot. Where can I find it?

The build guide is here in the thing's files

Depends on how comfortable you are with building and running it. You can get someone from 3D Hubs to print the parts for you.

Thanks a lot for your reply.

Well, it will cost more in this case, as I read I found there is previous version of D-Bot, the previous one also need ready printable parts?

im having a mare trying to get the motors to function. using ramps 1.4, a4988 stepper drivers, 1.68a motors. ive followed the build guide to the letter but am not having any luck.

i have nothing else wired into the board other than a motor and one stepper driver at the moment. I used the downloadable marlin zip without any luck. im not on the latest marlin and still no luck. anyone?

ive tried tuning the potentiometers and adding the correct calcs for my motors
DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 94.3140, 94.3140, 1600, 500 }
DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE { 200, 200, 5, 25 }
DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION { 3000, 3000, 1000, 5000 }

What happened when you tried the downloadable marlin from the Dbot page?

just retried the original download marlin. without any changes to the config. i can control the motors from repetier but again the motors just make loud high pitched noises.

this morning ive successfuly tested board, drivers and motors with this handy test .ino from yogesh patel https://youtu.be/a0zJZ4wZ2j0
i know it all works which is great! but still cant get the motors to be controlled.

did you set the jumpers to 1/16?

hiya. yehah!. thats my problem. i completely forgot to add the jumpers. in the meantime i now know how to configure and use marlin pretty well. and i can get my z motors working from one stepper driver which others said they couldnt.

;) you can't see your glasses if they are on your nose :P
happy building

In the electrical diagram, it shows the power input coming in from the PSU to the 5A terminals, and then the 5A and 11A terminals are connected via a small jumper cable. However, I'm curious what was done differently in the photographs spauda01 provided; which don't seem to be following the diagram.

My curiosity stems from wanting to figure out how to keep the wiring clean like spauda01 is doing in his photos. And just how do you wire up the power to the LED controller without making a mess outside the RAMPS enclosure?

I shorted those pins on the ramps board, I also wired up the LED controller right to the ramps board inside the enclosure

Following instructions and BOM except using a MKS sbase as the controller. Upon hooking it up with power and the bed for the first time, the output voltage of the bed pins was 4V (strange?). Then I turned the bed on and the light on the relay went out, and now the pins constantly output 12V but the bed doesn't heat up anymore.
Can anyone indicate as to what has gone wrong?
Cheers

Double check relay wiring

I build the 300x300x300 and im getting xy shift. it prints a layer then shifts 5mm and prints the next

Had the same issue, was using Simplify 3d turned out you cant use a Z offset in the settings, it applys it to the x/y movement for some reason.

Anyone are using duetwifi and bltouch? I am having some trouble impelmenting the autobed levelling.

I am using duetwifi and the IR sensor
The best place to ask this question is at
https://www.duet3d.com/forum/index.php

the people who created the board and firmware watch the forum

I am stuck, i cannot get reliable Z motion on this printer at all. It moves down fine always, but lifting up seems to bind.

I have noticed it seems the z frame tilts forward or back when moving up or down. Is there a way to limit this?

I am re-working it now to have it attached at the front and back rails to see if that will help, but any help would be appreciated as i can't seem to get this to move reliably.

Your z wheels are too tight or misaligned

Do you mean the bolt holding the wheel to the mount or the bolts holding the mount to the frame?

Could be either

I tweaked those. Seems to be better. I still get binding, but only at the top 10 mm. Its starting to drive me nuts. I am starting to wonder if there is a defect in my threaded rods that is causing this, cause its fine until the top 10mm :(

I've had this too. It was a pain in the butt to resolve. I basically just moved the motor and rod around until it resolved it. Sometimes stuff just didn't line up correctly. I still get a little squeaking every now and then, which is still annoying.

Had a similar when lowering to the base, turned out one of my aluminium couplers had a off-center hole

Hi
I have build this d-bot core xy, based on your guide (great work btw).
So, I connected all the wires according to the diagram and Im pretty sure that it is correct (dont we all say that:) ).
But there was no sign of life when plugged into the usb.
I unplugged everything from the ramp and found out that the z-endstop min. pin is somehow related to my problem. When I trigger the endstop switch, my arduino and ramp turns on.

I have tried to invert the endstop logic in configuration.h without any luck.

Any idea why this is happening?

Hello All. I am having a problem with my extruder stepper motor. Once my hot end gets hot enough and I use the manually feed command on Repetier Host, the filament will feed for a few seconds and then my stepper motor will make clicking noises and wont feed. Then itll start feeding again. I replaced the stepper with a brand new one and that wasn't the problem. Does anyone know what to do??

I've had the same thing happen on mine, the manual feed command is much faster than an actual print feed. Try a sample print

I've gotten it to print many times about two weeks ago. Now every time I try to print anything it clicks.

Motor clicking could be caused by a number of things. I would check:

Is your feed rate calibrated?
Is your hot end getting hot enough?
Is your print head too close to the bed?
Is your bed level?
Is your stepper motor getting enough current?
Is your nozzle damaged?

How would I check the current on the stepper?

If you have a RAMPS board, there is a tutorial here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XU6lgFeZ7ZQ. On a Smoothie board you can set the current in the configuration file.

I have previously done that process. I have the manual feed nob so that I can turn the motor myself, but even when the hotend is completely hot, its still incredibly hard to get filament out. This leads to clicking when I try to print anything. Not sure what the problem is, but I've swapped with 2 other motors and the same problem.

Having the print head set too low can cause clicking. I'd print a one-layer skirt and measure it with a micrometer to be sure.

If that's not it, too much pressure on the extruder adjust screw can cause problems. Not only does it make the motor work harder, the teeth dig in to the filament more and try and push more filament. (I had problems with the printed version and switched to a metal one)

Also, if you have an IR thermometer, check the print head temperature with that. If you have a bad thermocouple or if the wrong one is set in the configuration file your temps might be off.

Hello All. I am having problems after I installed a BLTOUCH sensor. When I do a G28, X and Y home as they should but when it tries to home the Z, it moves about 20-30mm along the X and about 10 mm along the Y and sounds like motors are fighting each other . It then probes the Z.When I look at the commands, it is indicating that it is in the center of the bed but it is not. I have compiled different versions of Marlin as well as Repitier with the same results. I got it to work once by sending M502 followed by M500. It homed X and Y then moved to center of bed and probed Z. but when disconnected and went back in then went back to the old way. I have not been able to get it to home to the center of the bed since. Even repeating the 502 command.I am totally stumped on this and have been fighting this for 2 weeks now.

Did you tried marlin RC8? I set my BLtouch w/ it (following TheLost's advices) and i didn't get any issues. Also what is your
HOMING_FEEDRATE_XY value. If it's too high you might lost steps

Thank You 1sPIRe for the reply. Yes I tried RC8 as well as RC bugfix. Where would I find TheLost's advices? Homing feed rate is HOMING_FEEDRATE_XY (50*60). Not sure what that means, I never touch that so it is default. Can you post or send me your config.h? I can't seam to find anyone else who are using the BLTouch with a D-Bot

I contact TheLost trought private messages, but he already gives some great tips on his own made :
http://www.thingiverse.com/make:244517

50*60 is the default settings which a good one, actually I set it faster....
I need to take time to share my made and all my setup....

D-Bot Core-XY 3D Printer
by TheLost

Very nice printer =)

I plan to rebuild this version but I want 450x250mm`s for my heatbed. Is this possible? My problem is now, how long should be my offset for the aluminum profiles? Thank you :)

Hi Spauda01,

I am using your provided firmware files and I am trying to enable the LCD display. I used the RAMPS instructions that told me to uncomment the #define ULTRA_LCD line because that best matches my screen (I think) but when I do that I get the following error and it will not compile. I do not want to switch to stock firmware and run the risk of the printer not working because it is, other than the LCD screen.

Thanks for the help and thanks for putting out such an amazing set of files to everyone!

Arduino: 1.8.2 (Windows 10), Board: "Arduino/Genuino Mega or Mega 2560, ATmega2560 (Mega 2560)"

sketch\temperature.cpp:565:46: warning: extra tokens at end of #ifdef directive

 #ifdef THERMAL_RUNAWAY_PROTECTION_PERIOD && THERMAL_RUNAWAY_PROTECTION_PERIOD > 0

                                          ^

In file included from sketch\language.h:156:0,

             from sketch\ultralcd.cpp:5:

sketch\language_en.h:11:58: warning: initializer-string for array of chars is too long [-fpermissive]

define WELCOME_MSG MACHINE_NAME " ready."

                                                      ^

sketch\ultralcd.cpp:36:40: note: in expansion of macro 'WELCOME_MSG'

char lcd_status_message[LCD_WIDTH+1] = WELCOME_MSG;

                                    ^

sketch\ultralcd.cpp: In function 'void lcd_goto_menu(menuFunc_t, uint32_t, bool)':

ultralcd.cpp:194: error: 'encoderPosition' was not declared in this scope

 encoderPosition = encoder;

 ^

ultralcd.cpp:195: error: 'lcd_quick_feedback' was not declared in this scope

 if (feedback) lcd_quick_feedback();

                                  ^

exit status 1
'encoderPosition' was not declared in this scope

This version of Marlin is very old, try enabling ultra lcd in this version of the latest Marlin RCBugfix that I customised for the D-Bot. Please stand near by when testing this firmware as I can't test it myself. https://mega.nz/#!tTQVBLhA!iuxwb3OWr7NfPWDjDNxVKCjHYd4t08cq9wOgHcMFnz4

Hi,

Thank you for sharing your job. Among all 3D printer I look, yours was the best I could imagine to build. Furthermore, you provide a nice documentation (build and BOM with link to the provider)

For me, this core xy type with an optimized Z bench looks so sexy ;).

I have ordered all parts I need to build mine in the 300x300 version. I live in France so I review all your BOM to avoir taxes. I will release it when I finish to include all links.

Soon a new D-bot will born

Can someone give me a rough idea of the time taken to print the parts and the required length of filament?

I am weighing up buying the printed parts off ebay or asking a friend or two to print them for me. Time isn't critical, but cost is more of a factor.

It takes about a 1kg spool to print all parts at around 95% infill, get two spools for extras and possible messups

Hi
I have so far an anet A8.
Im thinking about to build this Printer. But is it better than a Anet A8?
My Anet is a little bit loud and i dont like the unstable design type.
and can i use a MK3 Hotbed with the dimensions 214mmx214mmx3mm

That seems like kind of a small bed and not really worth the cost of building this size of a printer but it would work

Hm okay
The Problem is have already a Mk3 Hotbed. So i dont have to buy a new one. Do you think this printer is better than the anet a8

I can get 50 micron precision from my Anet A8 with a few mods so you really aren't limited in terms of print quality but the build area will be larger if you go with the 300mm bed. In terms of loudness going with 1/32 micro stepping driver like those in a Smoothieboard or Ramps 1.4 might help, that's what I would go with if you decide to go ahead with this build, or even to upgrade your A8.

I've never used an a8. Pose the question to reddit.com/r/3dprinting

Okay Thank you :)

Has anyone here had any issue with movement/ homing any of your axis? Whenever I do so I just get a high pitched whining and no movement. I'm using the firmware that Spauda01 provided

Your motors could be wired wrong. Or your stepper drivers could be damaged or configured with the wrong microsteps.

You are a genius! Thank you! My stepper drivers were in full step mode, I just had to set them to 1/16th step.

haha thanks :) glad I could help.

Checked the motors, they're wired correctly. My driver's aren't damaged I've checked them. However, I have not checked for microsteps. How would one go about doing that?

Hi all.
My lead screws arrived today and one of them bends slightly towards the top. Assuming that I'm using all of the standard parts and the E3d V6 hotend, how much distance is there between the top of the 400 mm lead screw and the bed when the bed is at it's highest point? (e.g. without passing through the nozzle)

Can somebody answer this question please? I only need a measurement from somebody who has this printer.

Varies wildly basing on hotend model, carriage choosing, and overall building inaccuracies.

Impressive. Looks like the perfect diy 3d considering the total cost.
My question is if someone did a project with a 400x400x400 as I was considering that might worth to build the definitive 3d in case any time I want to print something bigger as the usual parts.
In that case, I'd appreciate some details to consider to don't make a mistake during building.
Thanks

Can someone post their default speed incl. nozzle size and layer height.

I suspect my issues with high speeds are related to throughput through my clone hotend.

Original E3D V6 (0.4mm nozzle), from 40 to 60mm/s depending on print, 0.2mm layers. Slow but gold.

Thanks, I'm struggling to get above 30mm/s due to weak extrusion - but I might be happy with that for now.

Also I noticed that print speed through repetier host usb is like 3x faster. 10mm/s CURA slice run through repetier = 30mm/s through SD card. Probably some interface issue.

Has anyone attempted a cheap enclosure for this build?

I put together the IKEA Stuva/Besta combination (below)for my Prusa i3 but I think it'll be too short for the standard sized d-bot. If I ever upgrade to the 300x300 version then this enclosure definitely won't work.
looking through the comments, enclosures are breifly mentioned, but nothing I can use.
Does anybody have any ideas?

Door
http://www.ikea.com/au/en/catalog/products/30291663/
Enclosure
http://www.ikea.com/au/en/catalog/products/20165170/
Hinge
http://www.ikea.com/au/en/catalog/products/60261259/

You could use this with two doors but you still won't fit a 300x300 d-bot
http://www.ikea.com/au/en/catalog/products/40165169/

Yeh I saw that. It looks awesome!
But it also looks very difficult and without adding some seals, it won't contain the fumes.
Great design though!

I have a 3D printer enclosure for my OrdBot that is not 100% sealed, and it works pretty good, no bad smells, not even from ABS, the enclosure works is by using a computer fan to suck the bad air out of the 3D printer enclosure and blow the bad air into dryer vent hose connected to a dryer vent installed into the wall of my house, all the bad air goes outside, the only problem I have is air coming in around the unsealed 3D printer enclosure door sometimes causing warped parts with ABS or PETG, I have been thinking about sealing the door and installing a air vent under the 3D printer so that fresh air comes into the 3D printer enclosure from underneath the 3D printer and bad air exits from the top of the enclosure.

Have a look:
http://imgur.com/YmYVjJj
http://imgur.com/LPL0B3z
http://imgur.com/YlmlOMB
http://imgur.com/3xICoA6

Thanks :) I might look at doing something similar.

Hey Spauda01,

Great build. Just finished and working on tuning for my first print. The bed seems to rock a bit and when trying to level the bed seems to have give on the wheels / vslot. Basically if it goes up 1mm it tilts up before moving, down, tilts down.

Do you have any insight into how to tune the bed or tighten the wheels on the vslot so there isn't as much play?

Thank you!

I've been combatting this exact problem for a while and I think I am getting it under control. First of all, make sure all the relevant parts (the wheel holders, and all the brackets for the bed) have all of the hardware they require and that they are all secured tightly. I know that seems like basic advice but I've noticed the issue is very sensitive to this.

Another thing which may or may not be relevant to your setup: The back rail for the bed setup on my build was a bit too short, so I had to have the wheel holders make up for the difference. Make sure all four of them are parallel both with the linear rail they grip AND each other. For good measure, I made sure the wheel setups were the same distance away from the linear rail on either side.

I could be wrong, but I believe this issue makes z-homing inconsistent which makes leveling a nightmare. Now that I have it sorted out my D-bot is finally producing parts reliably. Good luck!

Hey Spauda01,

Just finished building this printer but having an issue on the Y- axis and was after your help.
Everything else seems to be running fine and i've had a look at marlin but i cant see any issues with it so far. It's all new to me so maybe i am just missing something.
X - axis homes normal
Z - axis homes normal
Y - axis homes in the right direction to the limit switch and looks ok until it hits the switch, it will then run along the X- axis to the centre of the bed and will shake on that spot for about one second and stop. It's like the two motors fight against each other at that point. Before it hits the switch though it is smooth and runs straight on X and Y and i'm pretty certain its all wired up ok. I noticed on Repetier the Y axis moves off the switch in negative direction to -200 and will move back to limit switch using positive to 200.

Any help would be appreciated if you have an idea about what is going on.

Thank you

Double check where you connected the endstops to the control board pins, you might have it on a min instead of max pin

Thank you for your help.

you are correct. i had it on the MIN endstop for the Y - axis.
Works fine now!

Cheers

If I use borosilicate glass on top of a 4mm aluminium plate for the heat bed, does that plate still need a flatness of 0.1mm or better? And does the plate need to be anodized? I have the plate and can drill it myself but each edge bends down from the middle by roughly 0.5mm.
I have a quote for a 5mm thick 215x315mm aluminium tooling plate with 4x M3 holes drilled, 0.1mm flatness or better, and anodized for USD$90 (~AUD$120). But I'd prefer to use the plate I have if it's usable.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I use plain window glass on a pcb bed and its perfectly flat for me, I wouldn't worry about it, and I certainly wouldn't spend that much on a bed

How long does your bed take to get to 110°C for ABS?

My bed cant get that hot

.1mm flatness does not seem flat enough. Try here for a cast plate..https://www.midweststeelsupply.com/store/castaluminumplateatp5

After asking around a few machine shops, it turns out that casting plate isn't a thing in Australia. If I buy from elsewhere the shipping would be insane.

I'll have to find an Australian equivalent to get the shipping down (assuming they even ship to Australia)

Hello, Congratulations on your project!
I wonder if in some file, blog or place you list the version updates.

I intend to build this project, updating it with your improvements. But I could not find a document that lists the updates, which makes it difficult to know what corrections were applied to the project.

Everything in the downloads section is up to date, if you've seen other add ons then those are remixes done by other people

Thanks for the feedback.

The most up-to-date I have checked out is March this year. The project has existed since Sep 6, 2015.

I think maybe 6 months ago you improve something, update the documents and I, who would do the project now, would not know what the improvements were, making it difficult to update my 3d printer.

No hardware changes, just updating small things in the build guide and parts list

Thanks for the reply!

Anyone have advice on how to align the Z axis Threaded rods? I think mine are binding. I get noise out of the Z Motors, but no movement. I have tried different voltages and nothing. I have moved things around, and i did at one point have it move down successfully, but never up. Any hints on how to get this alignment correct?

Starting to wonder if its an alignment issue at all, or if its something else. I get a buzzing in the motor, but no movement. I have tried everything i can think of. Increasing step power, decreasing it. Aligning everything. Even so far as to use a level to do it.
I am at a complete loss.

Check your wiring with a OHM meter. I had one wire in my connection break, that causes buzzing

You just need to move the bed all the way down, then adjust the motor mounts so that the lead screws are centered on the lead screw nuts, there is detail in the build guide

ok i got this done, now it goes down no problem, however it doesn't seem to be able to life the print bed :( not sure what i am missing.

Changed the stepper driver. Seems to be working now.

You know i read that page like 100 times, and yet never registered the move it to the bottom statement. Thanks for the pointer. I will let you know how it goes.

Details are always so important.

Anyone can share a duet wifi firmware for this printer? ( 300x300)

I created a ReMix with my Duet WIF config and Case design
config.g
homeall.g
homex.g
homey.g
homez.g
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2226798

DuetWIFI Config and Case For 300 X 300

thank you very much I' check it out!

I would love to get a copy of this also.

I have followed the wiring diagram and double checked everything. when I plugged in my board to usb it turned on when I switched the psu on the arduino started to smoke so i shut it off, I bought a new mega board and the same thing happened. any advise?

A couple things come to mind. 1) If you got the RAMPS 1.4 board from Aliexpress, Ebay, etc. do a thorough check on it. Mine had a couple solder balls that were loose and shorting 2 pins. Luckily I check it before applying power. 2) Make sure you have the motor controllers in the correct orientation. 3) disconnect the arduino/ramps from the PSU and make sure it has the correct voltage. There should be a little potentiometer on the PSU you can use to dial in the correct voltage if it is off.

I have done all of that

What got updated in the build guide?

New switch picture at the very end, updated some broken links

I'm not sure where to right place to post this comment is but would anyone be willing to help me out by selling me the printed parts? It's not worth fixing my old printer just to print them.
I found this seller but the parts are printed in PLA and priced very high when considering shipping to Australia (WA).
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/D-Bot-Core-XY-3D-Printer-PRINTED-PARTS-/112325649164?hash=item1a2721630c:g:aV8AAOSwEzxYP3mb

G'day mate! Are you still looking for someone to print parts for you? If so, shoot me a message. I'm in Sydney and can help you out.

Ahh this would have been so helpful if I'd seen this message before buying them off ebay. As far as Thebrakshow's comment below goes, I did try fix my old printer but wasn't successful. There will definitely be other parts that I need printed before this build is working so I'll hit you up :) Thanks man.

Honestly 110 USD isn't too bad of a price. There are a lot of parts for this printer. It took me like 2 weeks of print time to complete it. Granted I was printing slow so I could get quality prints but still. You should consider fixing your old printer with the parts needed for the D-bot. For instance, if your hot end is clogged to all hell, buy the E3D and install it on your current printer to get it printing. Same could be said with the logic board, power supply, lead screws etc. Once you have all the D-bot parts printed, remove the borrowed parts and build your D-Bot. I will say it was very helpful having a 3d printer up and running while building the D-Bot. I somehow managed to break the extruder bracket and needed to reprint it. Plus having multiple printers is awesome! :D

Does anyone know how far the corners go into the side rails? I have some 400mm linear rail and was thinking of doing the 300mm build but wasn't sure if it would fit on the sides? Basically the build sheet lists the side rails at 448mm (for the 300mm bed) but I was wondering how much of that is taken up by the corner pieces?

is there a BOM for quantity's of parts I need to print to build this D-bot?

thank you.

The file names of the individual parts start with a number indicating how many of that part need to be printed.

awesome, thank you.

Does anyone use Simplify 3D with there D-Bot? So yes, pleaseeee share me ur print settings...

I use Simplify 3D what settings are you needing?

Can you import de ff settings to me? i need everything :)

Can you share Your arduino code for Your 3D printer? I am working on creating one myself With 400 stepper motors.

its all on the downloads page

Tnx.
I am making mine in Purple color :)

WoW 90 Made so-far.

Can this be modify for dual end extrudes?

Hi All. I have built the D-bot and it works great. However I am trying to install A BLtouch sensor and have run into an issue. When I turn every thing on, I get a red light and BLtouch pin is retracted. when I try to home z axis nothing happens. I can use jog controls and z moves. I can home X and Y and they work fine. I can issue the pin in and pin out commands as well as the continuous test and BLtouch does as it is supposed to? So what am I missing with the Homing of the Z axis?

Hi,

1- I need help with the bowden system. The filament sometimes is not push enough and don't exit from the extruder !!!
2 - Hox do you make the connector to hold just above the extruder motor. I try to attach it, but it seems to work only when it wants !!!
3 - Has someone a direct carriage for the extrudeur ???

Thank you

Hi,
I've read the build guide and bill of materials, but I can't seem to find what wire gauge should be used from the power supply to the SSR, SSR to heated bed, power supply to the RAMPS board and from the ramps board to the hot end. Could someone please tell me what the official specifications are, or if there aren't any, could you please tell me what gauge you used.

Thanks

14awg between psu, bed, and ramps, 22awg for everything else including hot end, motors, endstops. all stranded wire

Hi, Anyone having issues with inconsistent Z moves? I'm running smoothieware on an MKS Sbase 1.3 and am struggling to get rid of Z lines. The printer is perfect in every other way.

Hello
someone has configuration.h for leveling with inductive sensor?
thank you

same here.
I have another pb. I order a first bed 300x200 (link in the bom). It arrived not flat at all.
I contacted and sent pictures to the seller. He sent me another one. Same issue.
Even with a glass on it, it still not flat.
For yet I will put the 200x200 mk3 bed ...

HI!
First time builder, long time geek-er.

I'm about 90% done with my Corexy Dbot but im having issues with the Zstage.
I made 2 changes to the system. I upgraded to the Stepper motors to 84oz/in instead of the 72. and im using 24v for the whole system including the bed and hot end.

Im just wondering if you had any tips for tuning the ZMotors. They buzz and bind up every time. Ive aligned and realigned a few times with the same result. any ideas?

Thanks!

Check your current, sounds like it's to high.

Just a question about homing : What is the normal move of x carriage and Y carriage ?

If I move x axis from 0 to 80 it goes right (when your in front of the machine)
If I move y axis from 0 to 80 it goes from rear to front.

The endstop X is for min and Y too ?

X min Y max Z min. Homing order is X,Y,Z

Thank you. After inversing motors wires it's now ok.
I got a pb with the Z platform.
Sometime it does up or down. I hear motors, but nothing happen ...
I think I must find where exactly to screw the rod. (I do the 300x300)

If some one has the length, and can share.
I will go to the original z carriage. I had printed the 3 whgeeled version, but I don't like it.

Now, other question : I solered the power button and wired the alim.
Is it normal that button off, it remains 220V between L and G on the alim connectors ? (alim is still off).
If I switch on the power button, the alim switch on and switch on the ramps.

???
When I soldered the button, does it have to cut the L or the N ?

Switch should cut L

What is alim?

Read page 1 of the build guide

Sorry, I used the french word ... Alim(alimentation) is power supply.

Another question, what is the purpose of the SSR ? does it heat the bed more quickly ?

2) I got a pb with the ptfe tube. How do I remove it from the big part ? I pull or push the black ring it does nothing ...
http://hpics.li/27c0f3e

http://hpics.li/8ae0118

Thank you

2) Push on the ring and pull on the tube

Simply put, a solid state relay is like an electronically controlled switch. Think of it as a beefed-up version of the Mosfets on the Ramps board that send electricity to the hot-end. A 5v logic signal from the arduino is sent to the mosfet, and in turn the mosfet allows for 12v to flow to the hotend. The same theory applies with a SSR, however, instead of sending 12V to the hotend (or in this case heated bed) the SSR can deliver 120V (mains power right from your wall). Yes it will heat the bed more quickly BUT ONLY if you have a 120V heated bed. If you have a standard 12V PCB heated bed you will break it by wiring it to a SSR using mains power. The advantages of using a SSR are twofold. The first is that for two beds with equivalent power ratings (watts) the one using the SSR will draw significantly less amperage than the one driven from the mosfets on the ramps board, and you won't have to worry as much about your wires heating up. The second is that the power that is used to heat the bed doesn't come from the printer's power supply, but instead right from the wall. The power supply listed in the BOM will struggle to get your bed very hot if it has to run a large heated bed, considering it also has to supply power to all of the stepper motors and the hotend in the printer. Please make sure if you do get a SSR that you are comfortable working with mains power as you will have to supply 120V right to the relay. WIRE YOUR PRINTER FRAME TO THE PROTECTIVE EARTH RAIL ON YOUR POWER SUPPLY IF YOU DO THIS!

You should be able to either press or pull on the plastic rings opposite the threads shown in the photo and then pull the teflon tube out. Sometimes this can be hard because the teflon is very slippery. I would advise against using pliers to pull on the tubing as it is quite easy to crush it slightly, which will make it harder for filament to pass through and could cause your extruder to jam. Worst case just cut a little bit off right where it comes out of the fitting and push the small bit through the fitting to get rid of it. Don't install the tubing until you are at the very end of the process then.

Please do not suggest that people use a 120v heated bed. Also that is not how the SSR is being used on this printer

The bed is in 12v as in the BOM of spauda01. So here, what's the purpose of the ssr ? Making the arduino to heat less ?

The current needed to power the heated beat at 12V can exceed the current rating of the cheap terminal connectors on the Ramps board. Its to prevent the current from going into the Ramps 1.4 board and damaging the terrible cheap Chinese connectors. With the SSR, the current goes from the power supply, through the SSR, to the heated bed. Without the SSR, the current would go from the power supply to the ramps 1.4 board, through the ramps bed connector, to the heated bead.

Hi,,I got a question : I'm trying to adjust the two belts.
But, when the belts are in place, the rail which support the extruder is no more parallel to the back v-slot !!
If I try to tigh less, the belt don't make the bar move smoothly...

What do I wrong ?

A good way to get the crossbar into the right position is to move it all the way to it's rear position and then tightly tie each end to the rear crossbeam. You can also accomplish this using c-clamps or by having another person hold the bar tightly in place. Once it's clamped/tied in place tighten the belts as much as you can since they are so long, and only once the belts are tight release the clamps. This will make your arm be perfectly square in all positions. :)

I just give a try to a prototype of adjustable belt tensionner, and it fix the issue you are facing. I will share it once I will have finish my built. So your probleme might be because one of your 2 belts is more tensionned than the other. try to release one or tension more the other one.

Thank you. Indeed, releasing a bit on the first belt, and tighting the other a bit more is perfect ...

I am hoping someone might have some advice for me. I got everything assembled pretty much, however i am noticing that the Extruder mount doesn't move smoothly, the rest of the moving parts are perfect, but the extruder mount is very hard to move. I don't see any way to adjust the tension on that mount, as uses the top and bottom, any suggestions on how i can work with that mount to get it moving better?

I think i may see something, it looks like the bottom holes are longer, to allow for up and down movement. I will see if i can get them to move down slightly to give more freedom of motion.

Make sure you don't overtighten the locknuts that are used to hold the M5 screws that clamp the carriage together. Overtightening these will cause the bearings inside the delrin v-wheels to bind and become stuck. In addition to this the bottom holes are not only elongated like you pointed out but they are also finished off with a wedge that forces the bolts to move closer to the aluminum extrusion. I found that if I relied on letting the tightening move the bolts into the snug position they would become overtightened and bind. Try getting the two top wheels to a good tightness (to where anymore torque on the locknut will cause binding) and then try to replicate this torque on the bottom bolts. Once you've done this with the bottom bolts squeeze the bottom bolts up towards the top ones in order to snug them up against the extrusion. Verify a good fit by trying to rotate the carriage about the y-axis. If you have done this properly there should be no play for this.

I have built everything by the book and I currently at the programming phase of the build. I've inputted everything number by number from the guide yet when I try to move the x,y and z nothing happens at all. Well there is something that happens and that is on the z-axis motors and there is a loud buzzing noise but they do not move. Non of my motors move but those are the only two that make sounds. I've adjusted the voltage from the little steppers turning them every which way but still nothing, the buzzing on z-axis only decreases slightly.

Anyone else have this problem that could help? Thank you.

Make sure that the 4-pin connectors that are on the stepper leads are wired properly. There are a lot of different color codes used for stepper motors but one sure-fire way to find out which two cables are connected to the same coil is to connect two of the cables together and spin the spindle of the motor. If when you spin the shaft you notice resistance to the motion, that means the two wires you are holding together are part of the same coil. The two wires corresponding to the same coil will likely be labeled A1 & A2 or B1 & B2 in the wiring diagram, so ensure that the wires are hooked up properly on your board. Motors with improperly wired leads will just whine and shake a little bit.

Curious. If you haven't yet, join the Facebook D-Bot group. Plenty of people in there to help out.
I assume Power Supply running proper voltage? 3 Jumpers are placed under each Stepper Driver? Using Spauda01's Marlin coding?

Searched the comments, nothing of value:
So ive been using this printer for the last + 8 Months(Thanks very much spauda)
anyway, ive always dealt with it but i plan on building a couple for friends soon. heres my problem:
When i home, I have to home the X and Y, then move the X off the endstop(1mm does it) then it will home the Z axis, if I do not move the X axis, then the Z will go the opposite way maybe 5MM and stop, it will not home.
Also is there any firmware updates?
Thanks for the guide again spauda!

Check Marlin to see if you are using the safe home feature for the z-axis. If this is enabled it only allows for homing of the z-axis when the carriage is at a specific coordinate point in the XY planes. This is useful for printers with inductive probes as it ensures that the probe will always be above a point where there is sure to be metal that it can sense underneath. I'm not confident that this will solve the problem but it might be a good place to start looking.

I've been using the Marlin 1.1.0 rc8 for D-Bot (Posted in Remixes for D-Bot here on thingiverse)
I see no change in my printer. So if it fixes or helps out over the original D-Bot Marlin I can't really say.

I'm finally building this printer. I'm looking at this for a 300mmx300mm bed and found this. https://www.midweststeelsupply.com/store/castaluminumplateatp5 and perhaps https://www.amazon.com/approx-KEENOVO-Universal-Flexible-Silicone/dp/B00V81ZI70 this heater to heat it. Do you think this will work good ? Any help would be great !!

Thanks so much for all the work you have done for us on this printer !

Tom

Hey Tom,

I wrote out a very long and thoughtful response to this comment as I have also built a D-bot using the same aluminum cast plate. I said hot as he** when talking about the heater pad and it has been flagged for moderation.... :( I won't rewrite everything but long story short.

-Quality of the plate is great, very flat and aluminum is imo the best build surface, just slap on some gluestick and you're ready to go
-The plate is heavy, sometimes on long travel moves (not while printing) this causes one z-motor to miss steps while the other still moves, tilting the plate out of whack.
-You will NEED an inductive sensor to help with this
-Also I would recommend doing the mod that I have seen some other people do where they connect the two z-motors with a belt, should help alleviate the problem. Once you've done that this will be rock solid. If you don't do this prepare to endlessly tinker with the z-leadscrews like me :(
-750W might be overkill for the heater depending on how patient you are, I use a 500W pad and it gets hot as he** :) (10 min to get to 130C)

Thanks for the quick response ! I'm looking at getting the 1/4 inch plate. How many oz is your motors ? Wonder if I got a stronger motor for the z axis ? Do you happen to remember the link for the guy running the belt off two motors ?

Thanks again

Tom

Hello Tom,

My motors are 68 oz-in as advertised on Sparkfun. Here is the link https://www.sparkfun.com/search/results?term=NEMA+17
To the best of my knowledge this is about the top limit for these motors in terms of torque, that is unless you want to use a longer frame size. Motors like these (60mm length as opposed 47mm for the normal) are available but are not easy to find in the 400 steps/revolution version, which I recommend unless you are getting nicer stepper drivers that can handle smaller micro stepping than the ones in the BOM for the D-Bot. Prints with these motors are super crisp and pretty fast. Make sure if you do go for a longer stepper motor that the drivers you have will be able to be able to supply ample current to them. You won't get any extra power from the motors unless you can crank up your drivers as well. A good place to look up this information is on Pololu's website about drivers. https://www.pololu.com/product/2971.

Here is a link to one of the D-bots that uses the z-axis belt coupling system
http://www.thingiverse.com/make:278566
Not sure if the design files are posted or not but it looks pretty simple to replicate

Good luck with the project!

D-Bot Core-XY 3D Printer
by Eberleg

Thanks, I will look into it. Here is the link that he has in his build...http://www.automationtechnologiesinc.com/products-page/3d-printer/nema17-stepper-motor-kl17h247-150-4a-for-3d-printer its a 76oz. I have seen 89oz on amazon. Have to check out the diver into to use them.

Thanks

Tom

Hey Tom,

I made myself a D-bot over the last semester at school using the very same aluminum cast plate from midweststeelsupply. It works so-so. The surface is very flat and aluminum is a good heat conductor and easy to work with, so all in all it should make a perfect heated bed. That being said the plate I used is 1/4" thick and the mass that it adds to the z-axis assembly is pretty significant. With the 1/4" plate I have to run my stepper drivers HOT! Good cooling on the board is necessary if you decide to go this route, I have an enclosure around my electronics with a fan blowing air through and would definitely not want to print without it using this setup. Even with the drivers running at max capacity I have some issues with the surface un-leveling itself (one motor will skip steps but the other will not) when raising the platform a large amount (over 70mm or so), which, to say the least is a pain.... You will have to try really hard to get the z-axis leadscrews aligned properly without binding. The printer works well once the first layer is done, but even if you are using an inductive sensor (you will NEEEEED it with this bed) be prepared to tinker with the bed if using a 1/4" plate. Many people have added a belt that connects the two z-motors so that they cannot become desynchronized. I have been meaning to do this for a while but I haven't yet so I can't attest to how it will actually work, but I'm pretty confident that this is the best theoretical solution, and that by adding it you will get great results. Without that addition I would rate the setup overall as a 6/10. With the belt connector I would imagine it being a 10/10. Moving onto the other link, the heater pad you picked will work great! You could even go with a little less power. I am using a 500W pad and it gets this thing hotter than hell. Over 120C easy. Takes about 8 minutes or so to get to 85 (which I use for PETG) but I run a lot of long prints so it doesn't cost me too much in overall efficiency. If you do go with a plate and heater make sure that the thermistor is installed in the middle of the cast plate underneath the heating pad. This is acheived easily by drilling a small hole (only halfway through!!!) and then using thermal cement or muffler compound to secure the thermistor then laying the pad down over the top. Also if you run this a lot prepare for the room it's stored in to be about 10 degrees hotter than the rest of your house. If you have any other questions reply again and I can share pictures or other insights.

Hi,

I ordered a 5050 led strip with ir. Where do I find the led controller board ?
Thanks.

I am doing this for a school projects but appatently i need a power supply that is Australian complient and is double insulated which the one in the design isn't. So far the only solution i can think of is using a Desk top power supply in a compact PC case (Which i have been told is allowed) but im not sure how i would wire anything.
Does anyone have any solutions for power supplies or wireing diagrams i could follow for a Desk top power supply?

Good luck...You wont find a class 2 power supply in the power range you need for under $250... You will most likely have to get 2 supplies, one for the bed alone( I would suggest a 24V supply, heated bed takes ~130watts!!), and one for the rest of the electronics (12V). I would look into Meanwell or Sparklepower FSP. They have class 2 supplies with a IEC230-C8 plug. I know sparkle has RCM (previously C-tick) certs on some of the supplies but you might have inquire as to which ones actually have it.

Trying to get Auto bed leveling with a probe. I have the probe working as my Z min. However when I do a G28 X homes. Y homes. But the Z doesn't home in the center like it should I have safe homing enabled.
http://pastebin.com/fa6kU3PZ
Here is my config file.

If I reverse my X and Y and make my Y end stop a min. It works as it should. But then everything prints backwards. I would rather keep things stock in regards to motion.

Anyone besides me having their z axis motors making a high pitch noise and not moving? I swapped the connectors and even took the z screws off.

Mine does the same as long as it's engaged

I just finished my build and rubbing the initial testing phase and I can't get anything out-of ANY motors but the z-axis ones are the only one making a noise.

Hello
because the display 12864 does not work with the d-bot firmware?
tks

I believe you have to uncomment #define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER in Configurations.h and install the U8glib library in your Arduino environment. You will need to recompile the code with the changes and upload it to the Arduino mega board.

Could you give me a little more info on how to do this?

I gave a bit more detail on a Reddit comment (theOTHERbrakshow) see if that helps you. If not, I can walk you through it.
https://www.reddit.com/r/dbotcorexy/comments/605trf/problems_with_under_extrusion/

Ok perfect
thank you very much

Can someone who uses a Chimera tell me how they set it up in the software and how they have their secondary extruder wired and set up as well. Please and thank you.

I have to say I love this machine. I've been running mine constantly for months now and it's been extremely reliable. Far from perfect, my printer is using some slightly damaged parts(I cracked from over-tightening), a few things I know I should replace due to wear and tear(from previous use) and it still performs admirably.

One of my favorite prints so far was a purple PLA knight statue I believe I posted a picture of in my profile here. It was huge and looks nearly flawless. I would only wish to make it again, larger, for more detail!

I am planning to modify mine to increase robustness and add new functionality, such as heated enclosure, filtered air, and making the build platform larger(which the frame was built for, but I never got around to installing a larger bed) and making the platform more rigid.

I'm currently printing parts for a "mostly printed cnc"!

:D

Thanks again for not only providing the build guide, but putting all the hard work into designing, updating, and communicating with the community on improvements and changes!

If you want an enclosed printer check out the Ebot remix

Thanks, I'll look into it!

Can i use Solid wire from power supply to ramps? and to ssr. everything else stranded wire?

wouldnt recommend it

Mounting coming to the end ... but before I assemble the belts, the extruder moved really freely and without force, now with the belts properly stretched, I find that the extruder is really hard to move ... is it normal ??? Or I have to look for a problem ??

Avant que je monte les courroies, l'extrudeur bougeais vraiment librement et sans forcer, maintenant avec les courroies correctement tendues, je trouve que l'extrudeur est vraiment dur a bouger ... c'est normal ??? ou je dois chercher un probleme

The carriage will be considerably harder to move after the belts are installed because you are then moving both belts and motors at the same time with the added tension from the belts going around the motors and idlers. I don't have number or percentage of increased force because I didn't measure these. I just started with some short movement commands after assembly to check strain on the motors and freedom of movement overall.

Thank you for your message ... so ... I continue !