UPDATE-- Added light info and photos. It is really awesome pointing down; I think I could make a desk light stand for it with arms, so it hangs or points down!
Ahhh yes, it looks good; it may be Greek but I'm reminded of the Transformers Allspark cube. Fascinating that a cube with a crushed corner can project an isometric triangle.
You will need nearly a 300 mm build plate. I thought the comments to scale down in X and Y (not Z) seemed crazy because that would change the angles, but the angled edges are not meant to be flush to each other, so scaling down the X and Y only should work.
This is a little tricky to print. You need a clean first layer and in particular a clean first line of the first layer.
This time my Creality CR10-S500 travel dribbled less than my CR10 so I did both part 1 and 2 on the S500.
As for filament, I had old Inland cheap PLA, and the Inland PLA+, and the old cheap PLA stuck better. Use a filament that provides you the most reliable build plate adhesion.
Tune your printer, level it; yes, you can be too close to the build plate. Get your best sticky glue and sticky filament, figure out your first layer speed, temp and flow rate and hope you don't get too much stringing between travels. I cut a small test section off in 3D Builder and spent some time tuning before attempting a full size part. Reminder to myself to do this with every new model!
My first layer was 0.3 mm with 0.2 mm after that. I'm not sure about two first layers of 0.2 mm for the fold. I tried 0.4 mm first layer, but 0.3 mm was my sweet spot for sticking it.
Mine always failed after a quick travel and dragging string, then when it started printing again it would gum or stick to the nozzle instead of build plate. When on the full size part, I let it do the first layer and as I peeled the failure off I added extra glue stick on the problem locations.
Speed of first layer was exactly 8 mm / sec. Flow rate was 1% or 2% over my normal first layer fill rate. Due to the stringing in travels I added a teensy 0.04 mm squared of Retraction Extra Prime Amount. My speed and flow rate had to be fairly precise. Even too slow can be a problem.
A little stringing is not ideal but not fatal. Excess stringing is fatal.
I usually do 212 C / 210 C and 59 C bed for Inland PLA, but I increased nozzle to 218 C / 215 C.
An excessive first layer fill rate may make it harder to bend the joints, so I did only a little extra. See photo "View Original" link of my Cura config.
Once you have done one wall of the entire first layer, breathe a sigh of relief! If it messes up you might as well stop because you won't be able to recover or repair it. The first layer becomes the outside of the model and it will look ugly. I tried babying it and clipping off excess but in the end this was futile. Just tune and test your printer and try again. My part 2 had more issues than 1.
Once you complete the first layer, celebrate! The first layer alone can be over two hours. After the first layer I reduced flow rate to normal and ran about 20 to 28 mm / sec. My total print time was 16 hours part one and 20 hours part 2. I am stoked about getting perfect parts!
Base is easy no supports.
Be patient getting it off the build plate. Smack it with your scrapper to get it to pop off little by little. Wash it and clean and cut off any strings or bumps. Do not bend anything until you are completely satisfied it is clean and will cast a clean shadow.
Bend each area gently through the middle, but over all do not bend it back and forth too much... it will break off, although you could glue it. You do not have to worry about the bends being 100%, the angles won't fit 100% flush. You only have to glue the outer edge of the joints and they will be like hinges and remain flexible. Don't glue the hinges, only the edges that need to meet.
Reminder: you will not glue the entire edges flush to another edge! Only the outer corner of each joint, a tiny bit. Small amounts of glue.
For glue, use a quick CA, but not super instant. 10 to 30 seconds. Thicker gel-like is better than thin and runny. Mine was a little thin and fast but I did a small part of a seam, wiped excess, then pushed it together. Or dabb glue on the outside and wipe excess, little by little. Don't inhale :)
Go slowly and consider what to glue next. Generally do triangles and smaller parts first and the long ones later. You can always glue the outside of a seam, wipe and push it together and it will be clean. The hardest part is the final long seam which covers two long edges of the cube. This was not as hard as I thought it would be.
IKEA Ledberg, a 3W single LED lamp with inline switch that runs at 24V DC with included AC to DC power supply.
Single light: (I used)
Four in one light for $1 more:
- Remove ring
- Use flat tool (scraper) to remove the lense
- Run plug and wire through the base in the correct orientation (up / down)
- Add one or two strips of the included double-sided sticky tape
- Line up before you stick; I lined up with the three long sides
- Don't blind yourself :)
Thank you for sharing this awesome design, Hultis! "Me and her" (Meander) love it.