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Awesome... Thanks Tim Edwards for the detailed writeup!
Nicely done. Are you running bondtech with v4 hotend? how did you get it to work? how does it mount?
made my own 3d Printed parts to make it work. Would you like me to release the files?
Yes please. Big improvement over makergear? What model of bondtech did you go with?
I use Bondtech's on all my machines because they are bullet proof reliable. When I won my printer, the first thing I did was order Bondtech's and implement Tim's modifications. I'll put together a write up, was working with Martin Bondtech on another project when I built the Makergear kit. It just uses the standard Bondtech head units, but I will have the specifics in the build.
Thank you. I have single extruder but was interested in trying bondtech
Yah, I'll go ahead and load it in a few days and you can use it to run a Bondtech.
A little hard to see from the pictures, but I think that you flipped both extruders relative to the way I did my setup, which I think gives you more range out of the left extruder but less with the right extruder. Doing it the other way, I balanced the two; I lose a few cm on the right with the left extruder and I lose a few cm on the left with the right extruder. I guess it's just a matter of preference.
Quick question as I'm new to Makergear, I just got the machine last week. The extruder setup is different than anything I've seen before, and I'm wondering if I can ask your thoughts: the fan that aims directly at the extruder, is that cooling down the carriage block via downdraft? I'm going to be switching to Bondtech extruder heads, and I have to figure out the setup before I do, and currently I can only see the purpose of the fans as some type of downdraft cooling. Am I wrong?
You should get on forum.makergear.com, always a good place to ask questions.
I am not certain that the fan that blows directly on the extruder is even necessary, because the heat break on the hot-end is so effective that the carriage block doesn't get hot. I have heard people say that it's the extruder drive motor that gets hot, but I've never observed that.
Post the same message to the MakerGear forum and you're likely to get a dozen different answers, but it should make for an interesting discussion!
I'll do that, I'll check out the forum. Thanks again, amazing writeup and thank you for developing this. Great work!
Okay, well I was unclear why you did it. I couldn't find an explanation in your write up. It now makes sense, balancing them out is a good deal.
Wow, there's another one of these things in the world, now. Thanks for sharing! Also, let me know if you come up with any improvements, or better gcode for start and end sequences, etc. In particular, I'm looking for a better solution for the wipe plate.
I notice that you have the metal motor mount brackets, one reversed. Do they reverse?? I have not switched to the metal brackets because I didn't think I could. Currently my printed mounts are limiting my X range; your solution looks like it may get as much as 4-5mm additional travel.
Nice build and thanks again for the detailed write up wouldn’t have done this without that. I don’t use the wipe plates simply because I’m mainly a PLA guy and don’t print in dual mode, but I did have to change the gcode to my own specifications on the start up script, not sure if you had the same procedures, I moved a lot of things around in the start up gcode.
Major areas I focused on where in the single mode where I needed to make sure that the extruders checked to make sure the other extruder was locked into place, esp. since I print remote over wifi and am rarely there for a print. I wanted the machine to just double check that the opposing extruder was parked. The wipe of the Left extruder happens at 10mm above the bed where it extrudes, and then it drops back down to .1mm and then moves over 15mm. Right happens similar to stock, off the build plate where it extrudes and then pushes in 15.
I posted a video that shows this.
Ending script I left same as stock in Simplify3d, just added G1 Z155 to make the bed go down at the end of the print. Don’t know why the normal script only ends at 10 or 20mm below the finish of a print.
I’m normally a repetier guy, so I haven’t used Marlin for awhile. The biggest thing that I had to get used to was the T1 and T0 change over… I learned that a G28 after that function was the only way for the settings to take, similar to changing something in the EEPROM in repetier.
Yah the metal motor mounts can be made to reverse by either re-drilling holes or milling the holes out for fine adjustment. I took it to the mill turning the holes into a slot, but there is amble room to just redrill the holes. Reversing the left mount was essential to flip the wire connector and get as much room as possible. Currently the Left extruder has the full use of the bed just like in stock configuration, the right extruder loses whatever the width of the left extruder (43.2mm give or take 10mm). Still super happy with the design and function of this setup. Get to have two colors with full use of the entire bed in one extruder and almost full use in the other.
One question that I had in the write up was why did you reverse the carriage brackets? I didn't find an explanation in the write up, was it because of the printed mounts? I was able to get away with mounting them in the stock orientation.