MakerBot Print is our newest print-prepration software, which supports native CAD files and STL assemblies,
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PET-G with raft 245 degrees at .3mm layer height, 40mm per minute...
Fits perfectly... Now to figure which IO pin for a MKS v 1.3 board... I tried a BUNCH of numbers. So far only 1 and I used that for zprobe.
The case is perfect.. It is very hard and strong.
I used the Heatbed connector, since I drive a 220V silicone pad with it. It looks awesome. How did you mount it? I had a problem with my mount, that's why is not posted, I am designing a new one.
Oh, 220V (not watts) on a moving part with wires attached.
If you are not using a GFI or GFCI outlet also attach a GFI protector ground
to the heated, any metal on the printer, and the power supply.
10 ma can kill someone, but it takes a higher voltage to overcome the
resistence of humans to get the 10ma there. 220V will do that. 220 is scary. With 120, you can use your right hand and get shocked, but I wouldn't do that with 220.
I have been socked by 2.5kV while working on an old CRT and forgot to disconnect the power :P
It can kill yeah, for sure, but where is the fun, if it can't?
I have it grounded and I have a GFI (or FI as is known in Austria), I don't know about America, but in Europe is required, you can't have an outlet without it. Also my floor is wooden. So I have a good isolation from ground.
I used a foamy double sided tape and stuck it to the power supply upside down with power coming out the bottom.
I didn't figure out what to do with all the holes. I guess they are for different mounting options.
This will be used to turn on/off the 24V power supply for a Hictop Prusa i3.
I am using a Raspberry Pi2B+ to run OctoPrint. OctoPrint keeps the printer control board always running. I will do this by adding a System task to turn the IO pin on/off from the PI.
I also am going to print another cover and put it over the low voltage side also. (after measuring)
I COULD have used this SSR to power my heater bed from the 24V supply I bought and continue to use the 12V supply for the printer. I didn't think of that. But, 24V works fine. I adjusted the PID values on everything and trimmed the stepper currents. I can heat the bed MUCH quicker if I wanted to, but I didn't.
I put the holes for mounting options, but haven't designed a good mounting option yet :P Perhaps double side tape is a good option :P