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Extremely Underextruding

by DasTschuTschu

So i recently got a Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus, but since my first print it has been extremely under extruding. I cleaned the nozzle yesterday in case it was clogged but the problem persists. I also tried calibrating the E-Steps but if i want to extrude 100mm of filament it only extrudes around 40-50mm of Filament.

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i3 plus just stopped

by Whovian84

Hey guys so today I did a couple of small prints and then on the third print it just stopped part way in and there was nothing on the lcd. the fan was still running light on mainboard. Any ideas how i can troubleshoot if it's the lcd or mainboard?

octoprint stopped at the same time.

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Cheapest Y-Plate Upgrade

by gamekorp

Hey there, I've been selling this plate upgrade for a while, and my stock of A+ grade and B+ grade plates is sold out forever. (I may be able to restock in like 6 months but don't hold your breath).

Anyway, the last of the remaining are C+ grade, which means :

These plates will still work better than stock, be 66% lighter, and fix the nozzle height issue, but they have these problems : -tolerance issues (at least one side of the plate will be flat, and if you flip it, the other side may be slightly askew, weird!)

So these will still work just fine, better than stock metal pan, but they are kinda fucked up which is why I have to reduce the price so much. I'd personally use them though without worry.

Here : https://www.etsy.com/ca/listing/596407671

Happy Printing. If anyone wants to share this on FB or Google please do, won't find cheaper, I won't get around to posting there

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Printer will not fully recogonise newer slicer gcode

by BoothyBoothy

Hi, I have owned a Balco Touch (Aldi UK rebadged version of the I3 Plus)for several years. The problem I have always had is that the printer only fully recognises the gcode produced from the very early version of Cura supplied with the machine. Therefore when I select a gcode created in later versions of Cura or S3D to print it does not recognise the extruder temp. I have to manually input the temp every time for this to work. All the sample models on the CD work fine. This is an easy enough work around but I am more concerned about what else is not being executed - certainly the print speed settings set in S3D do not seem to have an effect unless I manually turn down speed on the printer itself.

I have contacted Balco many times - they are just an on seller and generally useless and unknowledgeable.
The first UK version of this rebadge does not come with a USB output so I cannot find an easy way to upgrade firmware.
I have enabled using older M codes in S3D with no effect.

Has anyone had a similar issue ? Not an expert here but I presume it is just not understanding new version slicer code ?

Is there any start code or gcode I can paste into Gcode file to offset this situation ?

Thanks in advance Boothy

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Z leadscrew problem?

by XxCAFxX

Hello, i have been having this issue for a while now, i cannot seem to level the bed because the x rails are not level, so i printed out the z leveling tool and leveled the z axis/ x rails. it seems like it stays level until i move in the z axis and then it becomes unlevel again, its always the right side being lower than the left, as if the right stepper is moving slower than the left or something.

my troubleshooting steps
-tried tightening couplers
-tried leveling the z axis with the printed tool, printed on my anet so i know its level.

if it helps, the only mods that i have on this printer is a glass bed and the i3 plus+ firmware on the main board and the LCD, i was having the issue before upgrading the firmware so i don't think that's the issue.

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Extruder Stepper Slipping/Skipping/Losing steps

by Flak_


Printing black amazonbasics PETG at 240C, 35mm/s print speed, 2mm retraction distance at 35mm/s. E-steps is at 96.2, feed rate is 25mm/s in firmware. This problem has occurred with amazon petg, 3d solutech PLA, and hatchbox PLA. I have tried several different springs and a spring tensioner, and differing levels of tightness on the screw that holds the lever to the plate, all with the same clicking sound. I have tried about three new nozzles and performed cold pulls.

Mods installed:

-LM8LUU three bearing setup for y carriage

-Removed all belt tensioners and tightened belts

-Screw-in Thermistor from Gulfcoast Robotics

-Self-Made silicon sock using mold on thingiverse

-5015 Radial Fan mod on stock duct

-Microswiss extruder plate and lever (with stock PTFE hot end)

-Ball bearing hot end cooling fan

-Glass Bed with thermal pads

-Spring cups

-TUSH spool holder with filament guide

-Z Brace

-Brand new stainless steel 36t extruder gear

Does anyone know how to fix this?

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Better 4 Point to 3 Point Leveling Conversion

by demonflesh

I have seen another method of converting to the 3 point leveling system but it seemed clunky and didn't address the issue of people who wanted to lay their glass on top of the bed, and had people buying smaller pieces of glass. Also didn't like the idea of turning the built plate sideways because it makes the wires rub worse than they already do.

Step 1: Undo built plate. Draw line between two rear holes with a ruler. Measure distance between two holes and use an automatic centre punch to mark a hole halfway between. Drill pilot hole, then drill hole the same size as the others.

Step 2: Hole already exists in build plate, drill through adhesive mat from underneath.

Step 3: Drill a tapered hole using a 12mm drill bit so you can countersink the bolt. Dont go too far, as soon as you see the hole width start to increase you need to stop.

Step 4: Grind a bit off the head of the bolt to help keep the height down, or you could buy a countersunk bolt if you wanted.

Step 5: Attach bolt to build plate and check that it sits lower than surface.

Step 6: Mount your existing glass plate, attach springs and thumbscrews

Step 7: Move build plate back until it now hits on back panel. Mark enough left and right to allow thumbscrew to clear and cut down with a hacksaw.

Step 8: Cut horizontal with grinder.

Done, and you didn't spend a cent. And now you can level the print bed in a fraction of the time you could before.

3 point conversion Cocoon_Create_Touch Wanhao_Duplicator_I3
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Wrong temperature reading on monoprice i3 plus

by FactorialInnovation


I recently changed the breakout board on the extruder because the temperature sensing and X axis weren't working. The issue was a burnt trace on that pcb, meaning that an over-current happened on that trace. Changing the breakout fixed the extruder not heating and the X axis ramming into the frame, but now the printer won't stop heating which isn't that much better.

My Monoprice i3 plus stopped reading the temperature of both the bed and the hot end correctly. Initially, it reads ~11C and when I set it to heat up, the temperature readings increase up to ~130C for the hot end after which the reading stops increasing. Thing is, it keeps heating up (the voltage across the thermistor keeps on dropping even after the stable temperature reading) to the point where it'll smoke if left unattended.

I ruled out a cabling issue, the connections are fine between the breakout board and the main board.

The thermistor seems to be ok and has a value of around 116k at 21C.

Can you help out?

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Inconsistent layers

by Funset

i'm recently getting very inconsistent layer widths(?). which makes the final part look quite ugly.

does anyone have an idea on how to fix it?

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