Printing black amazonbasics PETG at 240C, 35mm/s print speed, 2mm retraction distance at 35mm/s. E-steps is at 96.2, feed rate is 25mm/s in firmware. This problem has occurred with amazon petg, 3d solutech PLA, and hatchbox PLA. I have tried several different springs and a spring tensioner, and differing levels of tightness on the screw that holds the lever to the plate, all with the same clicking sound. I have tried about three new nozzles and performed cold pulls.
-LM8LUU three bearing setup for y carriage
-Removed all belt tensioners and tightened belts
-Screw-in Thermistor from Gulfcoast Robotics
-Self-Made silicon sock using mold on thingiverse
-5015 Radial Fan mod on stock duct
-Microswiss extruder plate and lever (with stock PTFE hot end)
-Ball bearing hot end cooling fan
-Glass Bed with thermal pads
-TUSH spool holder with filament guide
-Brand new stainless steel 36t extruder gear
Does anyone know how to fix this?
I have seen another method of converting to the 3 point leveling system but it seemed clunky and didn't address the issue of people who wanted to lay their glass on top of the bed, and had people buying smaller pieces of glass. Also didn't like the idea of turning the built plate sideways because it makes the wires rub worse than they already do.
Step 1: Undo built plate. Draw line between two rear holes with a ruler. Measure distance between two holes and use an automatic centre punch to mark a hole halfway between. Drill pilot hole, then drill hole the same size as the others.
Step 2: Hole already exists in build plate, drill through adhesive mat from underneath.
Step 3: Drill a tapered hole using a 12mm drill bit so you can countersink the bolt. Dont go too far, as soon as you see the hole width start to increase you need to stop.
Step 4: Grind a bit off the head of the bolt to help keep the height down, or you could buy a countersunk bolt if you wanted.
Step 5: Attach bolt to build plate and check that it sits lower than surface.
Step 6: Mount your existing glass plate, attach springs and thumbscrews
Step 7: Move build plate back until it now hits on back panel. Mark enough left and right to allow thumbscrew to clear and cut down with a hacksaw.
Step 8: Cut horizontal with grinder.
Done, and you didn't spend a cent. And now you can level the print bed in a fraction of the time you could before.
I recently changed the breakout board on the extruder because the temperature sensing and X axis weren't working. The issue was a burnt trace on that pcb, meaning that an over-current happened on that trace. Changing the breakout fixed the extruder not heating and the X axis ramming into the frame, but now the printer won't stop heating which isn't that much better.
My Monoprice i3 plus stopped reading the temperature of both the bed and the hot end correctly. Initially, it reads ~11C and when I set it to heat up, the temperature readings increase up to ~130C for the hot end after which the reading stops increasing. Thing is, it keeps heating up (the voltage across the thermistor keeps on dropping even after the stable temperature reading) to the point where it'll smoke if left unattended.
I ruled out a cabling issue, the connections are fine between the breakout board and the main board.
The thermistor seems to be ok and has a value of around 116k at 21C.
Can you help out?