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Here are my current settings that I use with the upgraded printer. In Simplify 3d you can adjust print speeds for first layer, infill, perimeters and support and so on. Automated support for speed reductions according to the size of printed area so not all is printed at the set speed. My standard layer height is 0.15 mm and I use a 0.4 mm nozzle for the settings below.
PLA: 90-126.7 mm/sec at 208-215C. Bed temperature 75C for the first 5 layers to get the PLA to adhere well to the PEI, 60C for subsequent layers. Add a 10 outline 0 offset 2 layers brim if there are still adhesion problems. 5cm blower at 100% after layer 5. I remove the side panels and leave the door open otherwise overhang corners tend to curl up. Let the bed and print cool down to 30-40C before trying to remove the print. The PLA stays fairly soft at 55 to 75 C so you will deform the bottom of the print if you try to get it off too soon.
PETG: is my standard filament. No curling shrinking or adhesion problems. Tolerances are spot on. 230-240C, 30-60mm/sec. Bed temperature 70C. Blower at 20-40% after layer 5. Side panels installed, door open. Best removal temp for the print is around 40-45C.
You need a silicone boot and the micro swiss hotend and best print on 1 mm PEI. Then you can print at 230C and 70C bed temperature pretty much like ABS. Without that I had to crank things up to 250C, the filament would soften in the upper part of the hotend restricting the feed and I constantly had to clean the hot end. The original hot end is not suitable for PETG printing of larger projects. Also if you switch between ABS and PLA the original hotend needs to be cleaned every few prints of aggregated residue restricting the lumen.
Carbon fiber PETG: 235C. 30-40mm/sec otherwise same as PETG above.
ABS: 230-240C, 60-90mm/sec. Bed temperature 100C. Blower at 30-60% after layer 5. Fully enclosed definitely. Removal temp for the print 50C.
Ninjaflex: 240C 30mm/sec Bed temperature 60C Blower at 70% after layer 3. All enclosed.
Ninjatek Cheetah 230C 30mm/sec. Bed temperature 80C. Blower at 60% after layer 5. Side panels installed door open. Removal temp for the print around 40-45C.
I never print with the top cover on. You may have to heat up the bed again if the bed cools to room temperature to remove PETG, Ninjaflex and ABS prints. Please add other filament settings you use and recommend.
I have never had to use painter's blue tape, glue sticks or other adhesive liquid to enhance adhesion. With an PEI covered heated bed all that is waste of your money.
Most issues encountered in 3D printing are related to the specific chemistry of the filaments and print settings that need to be adjusted to the specific geometry of the part being printed. Theses are the same challenges for all extruding 3D printers. Software like Simplfy 3D are getting better at it but there is still a lot of trial and error involved. Too fast printing is another source of failure and problems. Todays printer are slow. Speed is dependent on the melting behavior of the filaments, the heat control that can be delivered by the hot end and the cooling that can be precisely applied to the extruded part. This printer runs on 24V that is a great advantage on heating up quickly and for immediate temperature control. Insulating the heat block helped a great deal in doubling print speed and still being able to cool appropriately. Using Marlin firmware one can fairly precisely calibrate the behavior of the hot end so that heating behavior is anticipated and not just corrected after the temperature drops.
Your welcome. Please ad you experiences with different filaments.
Great information, thank you for the share. Wanted to start printing PETG, this is a great reference for me. Cheers
Great I hope all this is helpful. Forgot to mention that I use a 0.4 mm nozzle and I made some edits to PETG part. Used to be pain to print but now it is my favored filament as it completely hassle free. Print and use. Neither brims nor rafts required with PEI.