MakerBot Print is our newest print-prepration software, which supports native CAD files and STL assemblies,
allows you to interact with all your printers via the Cloud, and many other exciting new features.
I just finished building my X5SA-500-2E.
Several cables were too short (I have ordered extensions) and there are no filament runout sensors with cables (are those sensors generic?).
The bowden tubes were coiled so tight I can't get them to nicely arc over the drag chain. Can you straighten Bowden tubes, or is there another way to deal with that?
While I am waiting for these simple fixes, is there anything else I need to tweak from people who have already gone through all this?
I hope to get a wham bam flexible build plate.
I have an X5SA Pro (330x330 bed). I disabled the inductive bed sensor and installed the graciously provided z-stop sensor to send Z. I do not like "auto leveling" code, so I spent the time and manually leveled the bed and then set Z. Works fine every time, no matter what the temperature is. Next change is to tie the two Z lead screws together with a belt so they never get out of sync. There are several "things" here that do that. My hot end jammed after several hard-run weeks of running the printer, and when I tried to rebuild it, I found that it was not an all metal, the PTFE Bowden tube runs completely through the hot end to the nozzle! Well, I was never able to make the hot end work again, so I am replacing it with an E3Dv6 - There are some "things" here you can print to mount this with a little effort. My stuff comes tomorrow and I cannot wait. Hopefully there is nothing dorky in the firmware that will prevent me from using the E3Dv6!
Did you upgrade the gantry?
I see several options on here for 'stiff' additions, not sure if that is necessary or which one works best
Nope. Just added a small plate with an M4 screw on it to tune hitting the Z stop. About the most simple printer enhancement that I ever did. My gantry is plenty stout.