MakerBot Print is our newest print-prepration software, which supports native CAD files and STL assemblies,
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So this is my first Tronxy printer. From a hardware perspective, you really can't beat the built volume and everything for the price... But man, Chitu firmware suuuuucks. I really miss having all of the features and capabilities of Marlin, not to mention being able to make your settings adjustments right on the screen.
Another thing that I didn't realize is that the controller board that comes with this one is probably great, but since it doesn't come with a bootloader and it doesn't appear anyone has been able to successfully hack it, I'll be replacing it with an SKR 1.4 with 2209 drivers and a TFT35 screen. That first hard lesson I've learn is that the clean looking 30p cable that runs to the top of the printer plugs directly into the controller board. This means you either make your own breakout board, extend a mess of wires from the SKR to the breakout board, or you buy one of the breakout boards that comes in the top. So now I'm waiting the 2353242 days it takes for it to arrive from Aliexpress and contemplating running the mess of wires just so I can get it working and stop struggling with the Chitu firmware.
Has anyone else done this or found a different way of swapping it all, other than using a Duet board?
Why not just depin the 30 pin connector on one end, and crimp on your new terminals?
If I knew what the pinout of the breakout board/ribbon was, I would give that a try until I got the breakout board. Either way I want to print the SKR case that's available for it and have my wires as clean as possible.
Sorry, the cables on my X5SA are not plugged directly into the chitu board, it is an adapter with 30pole. Tub socket in between. Some connections go directly to the Z-axis board and an upper motor (rear left). I've also been looking for a board where the rework on the housing is not so expensive. Most of the breakouts of the SD slot and USB socket fit to some extent, but there are always problems with the screw sockets, these are always on the boards in the layout area and could cause short circuits. As a result, a new housing is also required.
There's an SKR 1.3 case on here that you can install the breakout board you're mentioning as well as a fan, mosfet, and Rpi. That's what I'm going to be using. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3983757
I have looked at the thing and repeatedly have to determine that it is a 3D drawing, Freecad or similar. and STL files, no printout was made !!! I have repeatedly noticed with this method that the design does not always pay attention to the printability, it looks fantastic at first glance and then the problems arise when printing. First check if you can print it and if not, make your changes first !!! Pay attention to overhangs etc. sometimes you can only print this part with a lot of support. Usually a new construction is better, you can adapt it to the real situation as you need it. By the way, I did not find a PSU space in the print, so separate!