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TRONXY XY-2 opinions

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I've been using a cube3. Wanted to upgrade BUT not spend tons of money.
Ran across the TRONXY XY-2 and seems pretty good for the money.
Are the Tronxy printers in general worth buying?
Is there upgrades that can be done?

06may2019
I already own Prusa i3-mk2, Creality CR10s-5, Creality Ender3pro

Just finished my x5st-400 build over the weekend.
From the perspective that no printer is ready out of the box, and they all need updates, here's my thoughts.

I updated the extruder to a Microswiss from the start. I just ordered the Microswiss when I ordered the printer knowing this would have to be done. Its just what you always do.
This makes it no different than all of the Creality printers from 's' series, 'pro' models, to Enders. So that's a wash when comparing.

I had read the included belts were crap - and they were - so I order proper re-enforced GT2 belts and glad I did.
This is not a factory Q.C. problem. Its a money saving measure on the part of the suits. One that should change. At volume pricing it can't be more than $2 to include good belts.

I used 608 bearings with printed mounts to make good pulleys. Glad I did. The factory ones are cheap. Then again there are plenty of folks that replace all the wheels on their printers, yet many find them fine. So this may just be a matter of choice. The printed part is in my TronXY collection if you want it.

The circuit-board material instead of glass. Well, everyone bitches that glass from all the factories is warped by the time they receive their printers, so what's the point in including it anyway? You always have to go get good glass/mirror locally anyway-so there really is no point include the extra 5 pounds, right?

The TronXY BuildTak knock off material... So far so good. Not any better or worse. PLA sticks like glue at 50°. I prefer glass and will go get a mirror cut in the next few days.

I think TronXY may be paying attention to various forum comments on Facebook and maybe Thingiverse because many of the common complaints were addressed in my April2019 version.
Metal mounts where the pulleys mount.
Heatbed insulation installed at the factory. Even at 12vdc it heats to 70° in 6 min. So I'm putting off the addition of a Keenovo. After all 4-6 minutes (50-70 degrees) at the start of a 20 hour print really doesn't mean squat.

Overall:
Its quiet as all get out. Only hear the cooling fans.
I like the touchscreen control - fast access to temp adjustments - if you pause it asks if you're changing filaments so it doesn't freak out - You hear an acknowledging beep when each switch (XYZ & filament out) triggers.
Time estimates so far are spot on to Cura.

I'm really very happy with it and giving the "thumbs up" to co-workers who were waiting on my results to make a buying decision. Sure I have to do some fine tuning, decide where to run the wires and make it look tidy, but you have to do that with ALL printers. In the end, it was a 1 day build and was outputting product - so I have nothing to complain heavily about.

That definitely sounds like it's better than they used to be. You might be right about them listening and improving.

I just purchased an XY-2 off Aliexpress for $210 including shipping and it arrives tomorrow hopefully. It seems to be a real deal at that price but maybe if it wasn't at 45% off I wouldn't have bought it and would have waited for an Ender 3 but I haven't even received it yet so can't comment on how good or bad it is. People should understand that they are buying DIY tier stuff here below $300-$400 and should expect to have to tune things in a little,thats what being a maker is about. At $200 I don't mind spending another $100 perfecting the original design.

Good luck with your Tronxy. Seriously. In my experience their QC and customer service are non-existent:

  • The mainboard for my X5S-2E was dead-on-arrival. After 3 weeks of Tronxy customer support umm-ing and ahh-ing about it, and getting me to send them two separate videos of how it was not working, they eventually decided they were not going to replace it. They did give me a partial refund, though, to go buy another mainboard from someone else. Since the partial refund was nowhere near enough to get a replacement mainboard I instead drew out a schematic diagram for the board, repaired it myself, and submitted a patch to the Marlin Firmware project so that other users could get something out of it.

  • The smooth rods on the Z axis were all different lengths and all of them were too short. This caused the top and bottom rails along the sides to be pulled together (bowed in) so getting a correct level on the heated bed at the edges, where the adjustment screws are, caused the hot end to be dragged through the middle of the scrub pad and dig out channels.

  • Even though the frame is made of fairly decent 2020 extrusions it lacked appropriate bracing and is not very sturdy. Had to add bracing on three sides so that it wouldn't just vibrate across the desktop during normal use (even though it was on rubber feet).

  • The gauge of the supplied wiring for the heated bed was far too small and got hot to the touch. Had to replace those with a decent gauge from somewhere else.

  • The CoreXY belts were all non-parallel leading to belt tensions changing as the x-y gantry moves around. Had to replace a bunch of parts to fix. (Thank you Thingiverse authors!)

  • The RepRap Discount Smart Controller that was supplied with the main board was missing a transistor, resistor and beeper for audible feedback. I know some people hate the beepers and would consider that a blessing, but I use a number of Gcode scripts I use for printer maintenance use to beeper (e.g.: before moving something so you can get out of the way). So, had to source those parts and install them myself.

  • The supplied hot end was a very poor clone of an E3D Cyclops, jammed up quite quickly, and could not be cleared. Wound up replacing it with an XCR 2IN1-V2 color switching hot end instead. (The Cyclops is a color mixing hot end but couldn't find any software to drive it on MacOS.)

  • Four months in one of the extruder stepper motor drivers on the mainboard has failed. I'm still considering whether I want to mess around sourcing another Heroic HR4982 driver chip and replacing it, or just bin the board and buy a decent mainboard with support for more hot ends and extruders.

If it were only $100 and some tuning, I wouldn't have minded so much either... but I think I've spent around $250 so far on this P802MA replacing the electronics, extruder, power supply, inaccurate inductive levelling sensor which doubles as Z-endstop, and some other minor things just to get it usable.

And I still haven't replaced the cheap, flexible, vibration-prone acrylic frame (at least the XY-2 uses aluminium extrusions, plus for it there), or non-flat aluminium heated bed which struggles to hit 85C, and is prone to having the soldered 12V wires fatigue off and short to the thermistor wires, which are soldered about 2mm away... which caused another replacement of the electronics, and almost an electrical fire.

update here on how it goes. Maybe they fixed issues from when it was first released

Received my XY-2 and everything was in order. It comes mostly assembled,only have to screw in 6 screws and do the wiring and you're done. I hit a snag though with the bed levelling part as I managed to level the 4 corners easy enough thanks to the easy touch screen display options however the center was always higher than the rest. I looked in the manual and it said to adjust the z endstop by raising it a little. I undid the 2 screws holding it and made a thick pencil mark on the frame above where it sat before and just covered that when I moved it upwards. Loaded up the included test print,preheated everything and printed a beautiful uh...thing. Have to say I am thrilled with the results although it didn't wanna leave the bed so I tried to force it,spatula it and eventually came right by heating it up again and icing the part and pulled it off. Some residue left on the buildtak so I will probably just use painter's tape next time and pull it off.

Yeah, the middle being higher seems to be a common thing with metal plates, not just Tronxy's. I've noticed on mine the exact curve changes with bed temperature, too, presumably due to the aluminium and the PCB heater expanding differently. It could be corrected with firmware, if Tronxy included an up-to-date Marlin version, or made it easy to install one.

From the pictures, looks like you'll want to make your Z offset slightly higher, and it should come off fine. Aside from that, it looks a little ridged at the sides, but that's probably just the filament, not the printer. For a first print, that's fairly decent.

Stay away from TronXY!! No support what so ever. On a budget I'd say under $300 Ender 3 Pro -Has a large community so if you get stuck you can get some form of help. Want larger scale solid build around $400 I'd say the Artillery Sidewinder X1 300 x 300 x 400 pretty much 4 bolt assembly and almost every upgrade you'd put on an ender 3 type printer. Bonus solid like a tank construction. I own both so this is personal experience. I also own a TronXY which is pretty much a paper weight at this moment and has been nothing but the bane of my existence.

The acrylic frames keep breaking randomly. No more Tronxy junk for me.

Plus acrylic is relatively flexible, so lends itself to vibration problems.

No, absolutely not, avoid Tronxy. I was silly enough to buy an X5S-2E from them, spent months fixing design issues with it to get it printing "reasonably," then I was further silly enough to buy a 330 x 330mm magnetic heated bed sheet/sticker combo from them.

They care so little about their customers that they folded the bed sticker/sheet combo in half and taped them together before packing them in a postage sack. They're permanently creased and completely unusable as a result - but Tronxy don't care since they've got my money.

I have a P802MA, and my personal experience has been that no, Tronxy is not worth the money. The construction quality is terrible, nothing is square, everything is as cheap as they could possibly get it, and overall I've ended up spending far more on making it not-completely-awful than the extra it would have cost me to just get something better in the first place.

What printer under 300 would be a good one to get

If you're on a <$300 budget a lot of people have nice things to say about Creality Ender 3 - even Thomas Sanladerer in his unbox/print video (3 1/2hours), https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6EdZeodW5qo.

If you're on a <$400 budget people have nice things to say about the Flashforge Adventurer 3, but it has a small build volume for the price.

If you want a hassle-free experience I'd recommend saving your pennies and getting a Prusa i3 MK3S (USD749 for the kit or USD999 prebuilt).

Honestly I'm reluctant to recommend anything I haven't personally tried... but I have a resin printer from Wanhao and it's been pretty good, and most of my upgrade parts have been from Triangle Labs, and they're pretty good too.

I haven't had any experience with Creality, but like _AlwaysLearning said, they do look fairly decent quality in the videos I've seen.

All of those are not much more expensive than Tronxy, and while I don't have any personal experience with their FDM printers, honestly, they'd have trouble being worse.