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TronXY 5S - Bad Print on Test Cube

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During test cube print - 2 sides are bad 2 are smooth

I have tightened the belts

slowed the travel speed down to 70

print speed is 30

Flow 100%

Fan Always On

print @ 215 PLA
Bed 50

Any ideas on what I should check next?

See Image

It looks like you might have a couple of problems there. (Aside from making the same mistake as the rest of us and choosing Tronxy.)

The worst is the blobbing, which can be caused by a few things.
One of the most common causes is retractions. It's hard to know if one of those corners involves a retraction or prime, but if so, I'd suggest trying that. Tronxy uses fairly cheap heat breaks, so retracting as much as 8mm can be needed to prevent the melty filament end from oozing all over the place. For retraction speed, I'd suggest trying a few things in the range of 40mm/s to 60mm/s. Too low and it will melt during the retraction and leave a blob, too fast and a partly-melted piece can break off and leave a blob.
Prime speed can be much slower. The particular speed isn't as critical, but if you hear a "clunk" when it primes after a retraction, turn it down if your slicer (or firmware) supports separate retract and prime speeds.
I'd also suggest turning down the temperature a bit. If you're printing at slow speeds like 30mm/s, 215C is pretty hot. For PLA, 200 or even 190 can work depending on the particular filament.

It also looks like the top of the picture is wider than the bottom. Since you said "test cube," that's probably not supposed to happen.
If the wide part is at the top of the print, it's probably overheating causing it to melt... but since you have the fan on, which is generally the solution to that problem, I'm guessing that's the bottom.
In that case, it's probably a bed leveling or Z-offset problem. I'm not sure what the X5S uses for its Z sensor, but the P802MA which I have came with a really bad inductive sensor which varies +-0.4mm, so I pretty much had to set my slicer for a very wide skirt and adjust that every print, until I eventually replaced it.

The best guide I've found for troubleshooting problems in general is https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/ It often suggests Simplify3D settings, but most slicers (including free ones like Cura and Slic3r) have similar things, just sometimes under a different name.

Hope some of this helps.

All solid advice, thank you,
I will lower temp and modify retraction

I did replace the fan assembly with one I found on here, and so far no clogs.

I read the same thing about the heat break after I placed the order.

Sorry about the picture distortion it angle of the lense to the object causing it to look large on one end.
The dimensions are nearly perfect except for the quality of print.

I will tweak the setting and see what becomes of it

PS. How tight are the belts to be? I have these set pretty tight

Darrin

Tronxy uses fairly cheap heat breaks, so retracting as much as 8mm can be needed to prevent the melty filament end from oozing all over the place.

Ain't that the truth. The Tronxy X5S-2E comes with what's supposed to be an E3D Cyclops clone. The genuine Cyclops has a 1.5mm retract setting but the heat zone in Tronxy's version is so oversized that an 11mm retract is required to relieve the back pressure sufficiently. With that much retract you've a high chance of molten material following the filament back up the PTFE liner where it will then harden to block future prints.

What do you recommend for retraction ?

I can bump it up slowly from the default in slicr

Darrin

It varies somewhat from printer to printer because there's little consistency between hot ends from different production batches. I recommend testing it using the Quick Retract/Ooze Test by vector.

P.S.: a good set of instructions explaining how to use it is 3D Printer Retraction Calibration

Quick Retract/Ooze Test
by vector