MakerBot Print is our newest print-prepration software, which supports native CAD files and STL assemblies,
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I have had my x1 for a few months now and have been printing happily in pla at about 200C but I recently bought a spool of PETG fillament with a recommended printing temperature of between 230C and 250C with the only problem being that when I set my printer to 250C it starts heating up but gets stuck at around 224C.
Probably a little bit late for that but there are 3 solution if you want to keep original hotend.
1st is to separate heating bloick from coolend using some kind of thick aluminium foil etc
2nd is to use this : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1906391 It might be a little bit melty if you use pla so print in pla and then print same thing in petg to get more temperature resistance
3rd is to use one of those ceramic wool socks or silicone sock off ebay (like that https://i.ytimg.com/vi/rOQWOt8f1_8/maxresdefault.jpg)
To be honest I use both 2nd and third solution and printing in 260+ is noproblemo for me :D
I print PETG at 210-220 with no issues. Not sure why you need 230C+?
I don't know whether it is just the PETG filament I bought or if this applies to all. but at those temperatures my layers would easily separate and so my parts would end up very weak. I also did not like the amount of time it took for my printer to get up to temperature. I have since gotten myself a different controller board which easily allows me to get temperatures up to and beyond 270C which has fixed both issues.
Guys, we must agree that X1 is not designed to print on temp more than 240C. Printing at 220C power supply gets extremeley hot and that means something. Unless there is specific specs on your PETG fiulament to print at high temps, then yes yo need to modify electronics. but for mots PETG 210-220 works well.
One of the first things I did when I got the printer was replace the power supply. it seems like its only barely enough to keep the printer going. one really annoying thing was when I would turn on a fan in my room this would cause the power supply of the tronxy to fail for a second and my printer would restart causing me to have to throw away a half finished print
Hmmm, interesting. Never had such problem, however power supply gets really hot when printing for 3+ hours...
This power supply have some issues but some guy on facebook found out that you can crack open it, then drill some vent holes and mount small fan on it and it makes tremendous difference, it gets hot mainly because its encased and there is no air moovement inside.
Well, there's a chance that the hotend fan blows too much and it can't reach the desired temperature or somehow cools the thermocouple.
At least this is my case, I've solved this by connecting the fan into a part cooler port and setting lower speed in slicer. But then you end up not being able to control the part cooler if you have one. :)
PS You can also try slowering the fan with your finger (in the middle) just to check if it reaches the temperature.
thank you for the reply, I think that may have been the problem yes. I first connected the fan to the parts cooling fan and limited its speed which made it reach its target temperature easily. however I also really want to have a proper parts cooling fan on my extruder so I created a replacement cover/fan mount that mounts the extruder fan a little higher so its actually pointing at the heat sink while not really hitting the hotend. this seems to have fixed most of my problems for now.
(I have also ordered a cheap little e3d v6 kit from gearbest. I'll see if that might give me some better results when it arrives)