I just finished building my X5SA-500-2E.
Several cables were too short (I have ordered extensions) and there are no filament runout sensors with cables (are those sensors generic?).
The bowden tubes were coiled so tight I can't get them to nicely arc over the drag chain. Can you straighten Bowden tubes, or is there another way to deal with that?
While I am waiting for these simple fixes, is there anything else I need to tweak from people who have already gone through all this?
I hope to get a wham bam flexible build plate.
Hello good people of thingiverse! I have been looking for a good dual extrusion printer, but so far the only fairly reasonably priced printers I have found are the Creality CR-X and the noted Tronxy X5SA printers. I already have a CR-10s, and it's a good workhorse printer, but it is a bit slow due to the moving bed. I would really like a printer that doesn't sling the bed.
My main question is, buying directly from Tronxy Aliexpress, would this printer have everything needed to get it up and running decently well out of the box? From what I understand the first X5SA's had an anemic power supply and could not print with the heated bed running, but now that they have a 24V 360watt power supply I assume this isn't an issue anymore. I really want to like this printer, but I don't want to be stuck replacing everything except the frame. I do plan on adding the belt mod to prevent the two Z axis rods from getting out of sync, and I have no qualms about minor extra parts like the anti backlash nuts for the Z axis.
Second question, is the hotend an E3d Cyclops clone? I know it won't be an actual E3D product, but that would mean if I ever wanted a genuine part would be a drop in replacement.
My last question is, is there any reason not to go with the 400x400x400 cube version? The difference in size is very small (X5SA-2E 330x330x400 build, 580x645x660 size vs X5SA-400-2 at 658x631x639), so it seems well worth it to spend the big extra for the larger build volume. 330x330 is still plenty so I am torn on which to get if I go this route.
Just for reference, I am very comfortable with 3D printers, and this wouldn't be my first kit. Like I said I have a CR-10s, but I also have a FLSun Kossel Delta which was a kit I built and had printing quite well until trying to upgrade Marlin. I've actually really enjoyed modding that printer here and there, which is both part of the appeal, and part of the worry about getting a Tronxy.
EDIT: I took the plunge and ordered the X5SA-400-2E. Wish me luck. Thanks everyone for your help
EDIT2: After jerking me around for over a month, Tronxy finally admitted they did not actually ship the printer, and now I'm waiting on a refund from their official Aliexpress store. They waited until the very last moment to create a shipping label to make it show as "shipped" before Aliexpress would automatically cancel it, then played dumb until I started asking questions. Honestly I kind of feel like they were trying to run out the clock to scam me. At the end they eventually offered me a regular X5SA or a D01... which are drastically lower end printers.
Brand new D01. When adding the glass plate the Z end stop is too high, so the nozzle touches the bed and I cannot tighten the level srews down far enough. How can I define Z offset? when choosing the menu "Z-offset" Display shows "enable level compensation first". How to do that?
Anybody here using a D01?
So this is my first Tronxy printer. From a hardware perspective, you really can't beat the built volume and everything for the price... But man, Chitu firmware suuuuucks. I really miss having all of the features and capabilities of Marlin, not to mention being able to make your settings adjustments right on the screen.
Another thing that I didn't realize is that the controller board that comes with this one is probably great, but since it doesn't come with a bootloader and it doesn't appear anyone has been able to successfully hack it, I'll be replacing it with an SKR 1.4 with 2209 drivers and a TFT35 screen. That first hard lesson I've learn is that the clean looking 30p cable that runs to the top of the printer plugs directly into the controller board. This means you either make your own breakout board, extend a mess of wires from the SKR to the breakout board, or you buy one of the breakout boards that comes in the top. So now I'm waiting the 2353242 days it takes for it to arrive from Aliexpress and contemplating running the mess of wires just so I can get it working and stop struggling with the Chitu firmware.
Has anyone else done this or found a different way of swapping it all, other than using a Duet board?