MakerBot Print is our newest print-prepration software, which supports native CAD files and STL assemblies,
allows you to interact with all your printers via the Cloud, and many other exciting new features.

Download Now

Spool holder seems weak

Please Login to Comment

Im REALLY new to 3d printers... sorry for my ignorance.
Ive printed the spool holder that came with my tornado 3 times... each time it seems weak. I can twist it easily. wont hold up a spool.
How do I make it more solid?
What settings do you need to know?
Thanks all!

A photo of the printed spoolholders can help

Assuming you are using the gcode from Tevo, i can think of two things for now:
-the gcode is for Pla. Are you using PLA? And not Petg or Abs?
-Your nozzle can be (partly) clogged. Not enough plastic = not enough adhesion = weak part.

Wow that doesn't look good.
Can be clogging which causes under-extrusion . Does the extruder make a clicking sound?
Clogging can be caused by a few reasons, I give you the problems and solutions i had with my Tornado the last two years. Not at a particularly order.

-It is already clogged. Try to pull out the filament by hand cold (of course open the extruder with the handle when pulling). When it is stuck heat up the hotend to 70 degrees and try again. No luck heat up with 5 degrees etc.
-Check your fan at the front of the hotend. It must start turning when you heat up your hotend above 50 degrees. If not, the cold end (cooling block) also get heated and filament clogs. Check if the fan spins freely by loosing the green cover. Looking at the remains of your first layer, which looks not to bad, this can be the problem.
-Check if you can push the filament through the heated hotend (try 230 degrees) by hand (open extruder and push in until it extrudes). You must have a constant flow of 0.4 thickness.

-Check that the tube has no move at the both connectors. If there is some movement, that is probably your problem, replace them.
-I don't know but is it second-hand? In that case rebuild the hotend, new nozzle, new tube and new tube-connectors (couplers). There are several good youtube-guides about this. It is not too difficult.

Last remarks, the Tevo G-codes heats up your bed and filament much too high (80 and 230 degree if I remember well), which leaves your print almost impossible to remove. 60 or 65 and 210 are high enough. when printing you can lower these temps from screen.
If you overcome these problems, print a strain-relief for your hotend-cable, it is safer that way.

Thanks so much; I'll try those things tonight
It isnt second hand. It DOES click when it moves to the end closest to the operator... almost like it doesnt see the micro switch that tells it that's it's at the end.
The extruder did heat up way to hot the first time I tried it. Melted the surrounding piece. I bought a silicon cover for the extruder.
Again, I'll try that stuff, and thanks!

If it melted the Kapton tape holding on the insulation then likely it messed up the PTFE tube inside the heatbreak as well. That will cause feed issues.

I hope it will work.
Few remarks: with extruder i meant the motor and gears for feeding filament at the left. The hotend is where the filament extrudes (so naming is a little confusing :)). A clicking extruder is a sign for clogging. The extruder motor and gears are turning but the filament can't go in and slips, which gives a "clicking" noise.
If your temps goes much to high and don't return to the dialed temp, the protection for overheating (firmware) is turned off. Later on you have to take care of that. But take a look at your thermistor (measures the temp, the white wires going in to your hotend) if it is seated right and is not loose. If it is loose, tighten it gently, you can damage it with same results.
If the temp was over 250 you could have damaged the teflon tube in the hotend. That can be the cause for the possible clogging.
What did you mean with the melted surrounding piece? Doesnt sound right