MakerBot Print is our newest print-prepration software, which supports native CAD files and STL assemblies,
allows you to interact with all your printers via the Cloud, and many other exciting new features.
help im new to owning a tevo tarantula original version i replaces xyz with linear rails but after doing so the z binds when going down how do i prevent this? how could i upgrade the board to a 32bit board to run either smoothieware or marlin 2.0? how do i get get a bl touch to configured on it rather then the probe that came with it? and last question how would i mount a bondtech dual extruder on it to be exact this one: https://www.bondtech.se/en/product/bmg-x2-extruder/ i know all these seem pretty much over kill but i think it would be cool when its done i just need a little help figuring this stuff out thank you for any help given :) :) :)
It just occured to me that Oldham Couplers on the Z-axis would fix the misalignment problem as long as it's not out by a mile. I used that style on mine as I was getting noticeable z artifacts, it fixed the problem, my prints are much better. Now I'm trying to figure out how to combine the coupler with an anti backlash nut. Thanks for your post, I have rails I wanted to use and I've been trying to design a brace that would be adjustable, with Oldham Couplers though it won't be necessary. You helped me solve that problem.
ive helped you? i guess youre welcome but its you helped me figure this out im gonna try Oldham Couplers but should i print them or should i buy some? and as for what youre trying to figure out if/when you would mind sharing :) it would be very helpful thank you for your reply
I'm using this design until I design my own, it works great and is very simple. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2858698 I printed it in petg and used a file to quickly touch up any elephant's foot, didn't sand it or use grease yet but it works fantastic as is.
awesome thank you again you really helped alot ^.^
Linear rails on the Z must be in perfect alignment. Using wheels allows a slight misalignment and keep rolling, but rails will not. You should consider dual Z rods to make sure the gantry is staying level. That's a killer hot end you've located there. Never seen one like it. You probably already have, but you'll need to relocate the mainboard off the printer to clear those steppers. Also consider the weight you're moving. You will need to slow down the print jobs. Very cool, but there will be limitations. I can't help with the firmware, mine is a rare one still working fine as delivered :)
Regarding the Z binding as the other replies are almost certainly going to cover it. By moving to linear rails you have removed a lot of the inherent play in the structure which makes the binding issues more obvious. As for the 32 bit controller, I use https://duet3d.com/DuetWifi and highly recommend it. It is a RepRap compliant design which means you can easily configure it via https://configurator.reprapfirmware.org/Start (using a custom config) and specify your bounds, endpoint positions, etc.
Send a message to Ruiraptor. He is the king of Tevo printers
Your Z rail could be binding with the lead screw, unless you have an oldham coupler, or like the snocat said, binding with each other, assuming you have two linear rails for the Z. To answer all of your questions is a lot of work, start here: https://www.reddit.com/r/tevotarantula/
and go down the rabbit hole... don't miss this part: https://www.reddit.com/r/tevotarantula/comments/9d9wfw/tevo_tarantula_infobase_hotend_extruder/
Your Z probably binds when lowering because the rails aren't aligned. Carefully measure the distance at top and bottom then adjust the top of the gantry. I haven't upgraded my board and sensor yet, hopefully I'll do that relatively soon. As for the extruder mount you may find one here on Thingiverse or another forum, I'm going to try to design my own in Fusion 360. It's free and really good, lots of videos to learn from.