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Introduce yourself...

by projectearth7

Hi, my name is RJ and a proud owner of Sunhokey Prusa I3 3D printer

I got my hokey last December as a Christmas gift for myself... LOL

It would be nice to know how everyone is doing with their sunhokey printer... sharing experiences, failures/success stories to learn from.

As for my experience, as soon as I received my printer I immediately start assembling it and managed to successfully print some calibration parts using the provided filament. One thing that immediately caught my attention though was the frequent movement of endstop holder... It just wont stay on its place giving inconsistent quality of the print out. So I decided to design new endstop holders and also a power switch holder which proves to be effective... you can get the design here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:640943

I also made some more improvements that I will share later on.

As for some of the details on my setup, please refer below.

1) I used ESUN PLA filament now. I find the orange color filament gives the best quality print.

2) Nozzle temp setting is 200 deg C and bed temp is 60 deg C.

3) I used diluted PVA glue (50:50 water/PVA) on the surface of the borosilicate glass to improve adhesion and prevent lifting. I used a 1/2 inch artist brush to spread the glue.

4) Speed setting is within 20~30 mm/sec (depends on layer height which is from 0.1~0.2mm since I need good details on my print out)

Hope this helps and really hope to learn from others as well.

Cheers everyone and keep printing ;)

Sunhokey PRUSA I3 Improved Endstop Holder and Add Power Switch
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ATTENTION!... SHORT CIRCUIT/FIRE HAZARD - VERY DANGEROUS

by francisco_rh

Hi Colleges

I recently bought a Sunhokey machine 2015 version. I assemble everything according to the instructions included in the DVD, calibrate everything, and print a lot of the projects for the machine that I found on thingiverse using the SD card.

When I try to use CURA an connect the printer via USB, my USB cable burst in FLAMES!!!!!!
also this short circuit damage the USB port in my computer...

I did some measurements with my voltmeter and found that the power supply ground was at 12V. Everything was correctly connected!.
I found that the M4 screws fixing the power supply to the acrylic wall were shorting the 12V rail to the PSU physical ground. The right-bottom one is directly behind of the 12V rail of the PSU, and if you use the M4 screws recommended in the instruction DVD, you will go trough the plastic film and short the ground of the PSU to the 12V rail.

Please guys be careful! Do not over-tighten this screws, use shims to avoid going through the film inside the PSU, or simply do not put the Bottom-right screw. Your USB cable and port are in high risk, I think this is even a fire hazard, I hope you take it into account.

Regards
Francisco

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DANGER... MKS CATCHING FIRE!!!

by hiker

This is a post to warn (new) sunhokey people about the hazard of your MKS catching fire !!

Recently i saw a few posts about MKS boards catching fire!!

http://imgur.com/c0mjenj
http://imgur.com/B3ojvmP
http://imgur.com/gaNQScP

Through the connectors of the MKS is running high current.
Any shortcircuit or to high resistance of the wires (because of wires not fully stranded) can cause a failure/fire.

First thing you have to do while assembling / or after printing a while, is make sure your power is disconnected from mains and also remove the usb cable.
Now check "all" wires for loose strands. All wires need to be fully stranded, so when you strip your wire make sure you don't cut any copperwires (if so cut of that piece off and start over, make sure you don't cut your wire to short).
Next, when you stripped your wire, turn the ends, after that you can fold the wire once.
Don't tin your wires as seen in the picture below (for detailed info about that, read the comment of Gruvin below)
http://imgur.com/y3Vs5F1

Make sure all wires are long enough to fit inside the connectors and don't stick out. Double check !!
This will solve a lot of problems.

Because your bed is a moving part, make sure the wires don't pull themselves out of the connectors or strands will break, by simply mounting the wires to the acrylic with some sticky clamp.
http://imgur.com/sAhvDR5

User solutions/recommendations (i am in NO way responsible for these solutions, do at your own risk):
1) Replace original wires from the heatbed to 16AWG silicone cables.
2) Direct soldering the wires, desolder connectors from MKS and solder directly to printboard.
3) Placing relay between MKS motherboard, powersuply and heatbed.

As Gruvin stated (see comments) make sure you check your terminals from time to time.

The best and safest solution for this problem is using a relay.
So current is flown through the relay instead of your motherboard, saving all parts connected to your motherboard.

This picture is not for your MKS board but it shows how the relay could be connected between your bed, power suply and MKS board. (relay is the white box left from to the power suply).
http://imgur.com/xbGMF3O

When using a relay make sure you buy one with correct specifications (rated for 12V DC (direct current) and minimal 20 Amps).

Good relays are:
Solid state relay (INPUT 3-32V DC, OUTPUT 5-60V DC 25A): http://imgur.com/DJxWCD2
When using a Solid State Relay, make sure you disable PID for your bed in your firmware and attach a cooling fan on the relay.

Car Relay (12V DC 20A (picture shows 40A version)): http://imgur.com/XiDi4Ra
When using a car relay make sure it has a diode across the coil: http://imgur.com/ptlUfP5
Connecting car relay: http://imgur.com/ZJ2ndGB

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Problema micro sd , no me toma ninguna

by lordgon

probe con una de 4 8 16gb las formatie y no toma ninguna es una prusa i3 3d reprap
ayuda no me lee los archivos stl ,amF,obj
alguien podria ayudarme soy nuevo

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Rear Frame Repair.

by NCHippy

I broke my rear frame! You'll eventually break yours too :)
I made a video on how I fixed it to be stronger than the original. I hope someone will get some ideas from it for their printer. You might even do something like this before it breaks.

https://youtu.be/J5T7gPcv42k

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Aluminum Y-Carriage upgrade is AWESOME!

by NCHippy

I tell you, I expected an improvement with 4 bearings vs 3 bearings but what I didn't expect is how rock solid the height alignment is now! It used to be off up to 10/1000ths in between prints and now remains level within 1/1000ths between prints. Best upgrade I've done to my printer by far!

I made a video of course, cause that is how I roll
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R9Esxe7i3ec

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heater block not stable

by ukdjteezer

Hi all just came across this problem today with my printer.
the heater wont settle to the right temp I set it for 210 for pla as usual but it wont sit there, the temp goes past to 216 and then 207 but will not sit in on e place
any ideas
done PID test (that wasn't it )
rechecked connections (not that)

need some more ideas

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LCD Menu Tree & Printing from a SD card

by esorreta

I've been using my Sunhokey i3 Prusa hooked up to my PC running Repetier Host and everything works fine. Recently I tried to print from an SD card but couldn't. When a card is inserted the LCD reports "Card Inserted" but when I try to go into the menu on the LCD it says "no SD Card". I also noticed that the LCD menu tree on my printer isn't what it's supposed to be (there are far fewer options on my tree). Could this be a firmware problem, i.e. outdated firmware?

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Need help...

by Dumpster_Tom

My buddy bought what we believe to be a used Sunhokey Prusa I3. He gave it to me to see if I could get it working. I tightening up all the screws and the belts. I also cleaned out the heatbreak and the nozzle. I leveled the bed and tried a test print which was a xyz cube and it was very poor quality to the point that I stopped it. I've included some pictures of it.

What can I do to improve the print quality?

I personally own a Anet A6 so I only have experience with a direct drive printer. I've never used a bowden printer before so any help or tips would be appreciated.

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Direct Serial Comunication on the MKS Gen

by BLeaCHeR0

Hi, it's me again:

i'm looking to conect my printer to my Raspberry Pi, through a serial comunication, not via USB. somebody knows if is posible to do that??

Thanks in advance

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Seraching for Sunhokey Prusa I3 Profil of Simplify 3d

by evilmadcat

Can any of you help i dont find one on Google.....

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Sunhokey auto bed leveling, final solution for mks gen 1.2/1.4

by Phistterbut_Inc

The problem with using the NPN Normally Open (NPN NO) inductive sensors has nothing to do with firmware or the sensors themselves. The mks gen 1.2/1.4 boards have hardware pullup resistors built into them. The ones used for the end stops are labeled R16-R20 plus R27 on both boards, confirmed as I own both of them. If you want to, and you should, use Z-Max end stop for the sensor, you will need to desolder/physically destroy and remove the resistor marked R27. The NPN NO sensor will read 5v when not triggered and will drop to ground upon detecting metal. Nothing fancy, just wire the sensor to a preexisting connector or make your own and it will work off of +5v no problem. If the board is oriented to where the usb connection is top left, then the left most pin is the sense line, the middle is ground and right is +5v for the end stop connection. This has plagued me far too long, and honestly should have been very obvious to me. Here is the information for those who seek it. I will be posting my final firmware package and all the collective upgrades I'm using so whomever would like to set this up, has a much easier time than I did.

Fck auto bed leveling, calibrate your printer and you won't go wrong. Don't waste the time using inductive sensors trying to think you're cool sht.

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