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Hi! I have an R1+ and my picture shows the problems I'm having. It's almost as if random layers are missing. I'm printing with Hatchbox 1.75 (does it with all the colors I currently have: grey, blue, white, red) at 200C, 0.3 layer height, speed of 60 across the board (perimeter, infill, etc.). I tried clearing out any jams in the extruder and it goes right back to doing this. Is this a temperature problem? Do I need to go higher or lower temps?
Update: I let my extruder cook at 275 for about 30 minutes and then cleaned the inside out once it was all liquidy and runny on the inside. I then tightened all my screws so that my feeding gear was nice and snug against my filament. I ran 3 print samples of a 1 inch cube, all at 220 C and 0.3 layer height. The first cube had 1.0 extrusion multiplier, then 1.15, then 1.25. As you can see from the picture with 1.0 it had the gaps, with 1.25 there was too much plastic coming out and it left weird ridges on the top layer which made it hard to write on with my sharpie. At 1.15 it seemed to be just right. The gaps were almost completely gone and the top layer was nice and smooth. The only problem is that with the increased extrusion my top layer is thicker than normal so the tip of my extruder slides across it after it finishes the print and leaves a mark from the hot end.
to stop the dragging across your print, there is a setting for printer under filament>retraction>z lift make sure this is at least .2 taller than your layer height. I dont know if it affects the height when its finished printing, but i also have my Minimum Travel Requiring Extrusion amount set to 20 mm. Also be sure Wipe before retract is not checked, and retract when changing islands. If non of that works then you can add this to your Printer>custom g-code>end g-code.
G1 Z5 F5000 ; lift nozzle
Also to adjust your extrusion, are you using the tuning adjustment under controls. Or do you go to the filament>extrusion>flow>extrusion multiplier.
You may also want to check your printer>extruder>nozzle diameter is set to the correct size.
I increased the temperature to 230 and it did not change. Hopefully you can see the picture okay but the top layer has gaps between the lines so it's definitely under extruding. I've never changes the extruder multiplier settings and I haven't changed any software settings in the past few months so I'm going to rule out a settings problem. Which leaves me with a couple hardware items I can check.
When my R1+ did this i went to a 0.6 nozzle and i put a new fan for my hot end because the heat was melting my filament before it got to the nozzle, and i didnt want to increase my speed more than i needed to. Also i see your printing at a 0.3 layer. With a 0.4 nozzle? I never could get a decent print with a 0.4 nozzle. A 0.5 nozzle at a 0.15 layer height made my prints amazing. And for stronger and faster prints i use a 0.8 nozzle now. Also i've recently added a fan to my extruder motor as it seemed to be really hot. Since i've done this i dont have random empty spots in my prints anymore. I still need to replace the extruder moter however.
Is the fan which blows on the object being printed running while it's printing?
It's off for the first 2 layers and then it runs for the rest of the print.
looks like a clogged nozzle. e3d v6 nozzles fit in the hexagon hot end if you wanna try those.
you may look into e3d hotend its an easy upgrade
So I changed the temperature to 220 and it no longer looks like I'm missing layers. Looks like junk still but at least one problem has been solved! I too jad to replace a fan last year. Was getting heat creep and it would jam up mid print and I realized I wasn't hearing the familiar fan buzz whenever I opened the door :)
Additionally I'd check the fan blowing on the heat break. sometimes this happens when the heat travels up the heat break a melts the filament before it's at the heat block.. this can also cause jamming if it's the issue.
Check your hotend is at the appropriate temp and make sure that the extruder is doing is job properly (tension on filament, gear skipping, ect.)
Try printing it again at 235C, and compare the results to when it printed at 220C.
I have a large assortment of PLA from many different manufacturers. So far I've never found one which prints correctly at low temperatures. I get poor layer adhesion if the temperature is too low. Try 235*C, and see if it helps. Did you lubricate the hot end with corn oil? Some people call it seasoning. I was having intermittent issues with filament jams, and it turned out to be a broken wire on the extruder fan (the fan cooling the heatsink). I replaced the fan, and it solved the problem (plus it sounds much quieter).
Your software could be crap.
I HIGHLY recommend to confirm you have extrusion problem using CURA 15.04.6 (not newer. Older is ok) because its simply and does not have many parameters that could screw up the process.
Looks like under extrusion to me.
Also possible causes is filament slip.
If you cant get 1st layer perfect, dont continue to the second.
1st layer must be printed perfectly. Filled without gaps and without signs of nozzle being too close to the bed.
It could be motor steps issue. I cant comment on that because i have too many modifications and dont know stock steps for any axis anymore.
I print PLA at around 220. Works great for me. Though I use primarily Maker Geeks...
I had a similar issue once, it turned out to be that the heater in the hot end had come loose and could slide out a little bit. Enough to let the head cool down just enough to catch. Then in the next few moves it would slide in again just enough to make the heat high enough to flow the plastic. Now I check the little set screws after every print.
200 is so low. I print at 210 to 215...also what your extrusion multiplier? Looks a bit under extruded.
My extrusion multiplier is 1, should I try going higher?
I would say stick with one method at a time.... try the temperature first. Second if that fails to work, make sure the hobbed bolt is clean. Robo’s are notorious for creating filament crumbs inside the filament path and hobbed bolt area. Lastly, then try the multiplier... but work it in tiny increments.
Yes, PLA. I have terrible trouble with ABS but then again maybe I have temp problems with that as well. I do ABS at 220. I'll clear any jams and try to reprint at 210 and get back to you guys. Thanks!
I assume this is PLA? My first thought was temperature. Try printing at 210C and see how it does. I do mostly ABS, but when I do PLA, that's about what I use.