I need some help with changing some gcode. I want to change it to make it heat the nozzle after auto leveling cause I have a buildtak like surface on my printer and the nozzle loves to burn through it when its leveling so if you have any clue on how to do it or a line of code I could copy then that would be amazing
I figured that I should post this on here to see who would be interested before trying other sites.
As the title says, I want to try and my Robo R1+ to try and get a bit of cash. There is nothing wrong with the printer, in fact it still prints quite well even though it was not used over the summer.
The printer has everything that came with it besides the original feet (which can be easily fixed with a tpu print). I also upgraded it such that is has a LCD screen attached. On top of that, the other day the nozzle on the printer was replaced to a brand new brass nozzle. If purchased a brand new extruder as well as a steel nozzle would be included.
When I get the chance I will upload pictures of the printer if people are interested, as well as negotiate on the price. Hope to hear from someone and hope everyone has a good day.
Side Note: I am willing to ship the printer but ideally I would like to sell it to someone around the Pittsburgh area such that shipping could be avoided and it could be picked up or dropped off.
Hi! I have an R1+ and my picture shows the problems I'm having. It's almost as if random layers are missing. I'm printing with Hatchbox 1.75 (does it with all the colors I currently have: grey, blue, white, red) at 200C, 0.3 layer height, speed of 60 across the board (perimeter, infill, etc.). I tried clearing out any jams in the extruder and it goes right back to doing this. Is this a temperature problem? Do I need to go higher or lower temps?
I know that this is a common problem on this form, but this is a special case.
Background Information: My printer is only about 2 months old and only has 70 hours on it. I use hairspray for bed adhesion. I use matter-control as my interface and I use the default settings. 95% of my prints are using "Medium" quality and they turn out great.
Problem: My problem is that no matter how much I adjust the settings or how much hairspray and glue I use, whenever my printer is set to "High" quality, around 12-15 minutes into the print some part of the print starts to come off of the bed. The weird part of this is that it doesn't matter if it is a big print or a small print, they will both fail.
Anyone have any ideas for this? Thank you all for your time.
(Sorry if this gets posted twice, it kept failing to post the topic)
I need some help on bridging with abs and the details on the prints, my robo r1+ is stock and I have the stock hotend with stock fan and stock carrage, I don't want to buy a new hotend or any new components, I'm currently using mattercontrol and like it, I just don't know which settings to change can anybody help me, all my settings for printing speeds are; infill 60mm/s, top solid infil 50mm/s, raft 100%, inside perimeter 60mm/s, outside perimeter 50mm/s, support material 60mm/s, bridges 50mm/s and the filament settings are; extruder temp. 235, filament retract and extrude speed 30mm/s and filament cooling; minimum fan speed 100%, maximum fan speed 100%, bridging fan speed 100%, cooling threshold 10 seconds, minimum print speed 10mm/s and the slice engine is matter slice I hope all this information helps with solving the problem and thanks for helping.
I would like to know if a Ramps 1.6 board could be used to upgrade from a Ramps 1.4 in the Robo 3D R1. Here's a link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/273027430202. The next question is about using a TFT35 touch screen. Here's a link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/272993734745. The seller has no idea about any of these things. They just sell the products, and don't have any technical information about them. Do I need to edit the firmware or are these things plug & play?
According to several listings with the TFT28 & TFT32, it says that they don't require firmware modifications if they work with the Ramps 1.4 board. I couldn't find any information about the TFT35. Those smaller screens list several features such as low filament pause, power outage print recovery, an option to connect to a WIFI board, customized screen icons, etc.
Hi I have a new Robo r1 plus with the hexagon hot end. I have been printing a lot of flat things that come out perfect, but now I am trying to print statue things, like this bunny I found https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-spring-bunny-60081 and the little bit of overhang on the bottom of the head always looks partially melted and not very round. I have rotated the part so the head faces the fan, it seemed to helped, but you can still see deformities below the head. I am sure it is the part cooling fan, since the fan is not being directed at the part, it just kinda blows down on the bed. I have printed about a half a dozen different fan shrouds that I have found, I like the one that just snaps over the X carriage, but they all sit below my nozzle. ( I am trying to put the shroud in the rear of my printer). Is there a fan shroud for the Robo R1 plus that someone has made that will go on my printer, I am not very good with modeling stuff, I tried fusion 360, but it is all confusing to me. I see a lot of them for the E3d hot end, but I just got my printer and the stock hot end seems to work fine. Could someone please direct me to a shroud that will not sit below my nozzle, or will I have to learn how to put this E3d nozzle on and the dual fan shroud setup.