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Welcome!

by 3D-ME

RepRap is humanity's first general-purpose self-replicating manufacturing machine. It is an open-source project that focuses on the creation and development of 3D printers that can print (some of) their own parts.

More information can be found at the wiki: http://reprap.org/wiki/Main_Page

This group is a place to discuss and share files related to, but not limited to; printer designs, modifications/upgrades, calibration, etc.

Join to share your own RepRap related designs with this group!

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Odd temp errors

by Magic-Goat

So I’m running a good old ramps 1.4 setup and it has worked great until now. It has randomly started stopping mid-print and showing a temp error on either the bed or the hot end. The odd part is that the hotter i have the bed the more likely it is to show the fault 50c and i can usually print for 30-60 mins, 65c and it won’t get past the first layer. If i do not use the heated bed no problem shows at all. Also, if i do not start a print and just leave the printer heating up i never get an error, it’s only once it starts the print.

Error messages that show up:
Error:MINTEMP triggered, system stopped! Heater_ID: bed
Error:MAXTEMP triggered, system stopped! Heater_ID: bed
Error:MINTEMP triggered, system stopped! Heater_ID: 0
Error:MAXTEMP triggered, system stopped! Heater_ID: 0

Again, it seems totally random which error will appear and none of them appear if i do not use the heated bed. All temperatures appear accurate and stable when it stops. I tried swapping the thermistor in the hot end and the errors stayed. I checked all the connectors are secure, wiggled every wire and still nothing.

I thought that maybe the data lines are getting a interference next to eachother so i separated the thermistor bed wires away from the hot end wires but it made no difference.

Anyone seen anything like this before? Any help is greatly appreciated.

Edit: SOLVED!
For some reason Marlin 1.1.0 wasn't showing the temp drops that would cause the fault. Updated to 1.1.5 and set PID settings for hot end and bed and now works fine. Worth noting that my heated bed is 5mm Aluminum so the PID settings are necessary.

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HUGE 3D printer concept - how to get over the hurdles?

by Ender3Guy

So, I've decided to build a massive FDM printer. 1000 mm in all directions for build volume. It's also going to be an IDEX system with a remote direct drive extruder on each. And obviously a CoreXY, since anyone who tries to move that kind of heated bed quickly has no concept of momentum.
It will also be enclosed for ABS printing, with an air scrubber using 3M cartridges.

However, there are several hurdles, so I decided I'd come here for help.

First of all, which control boards and firmwares support IDEX setups? I would like a 32 bit processor if possible, preferably with 64x microstepping or greater.
And of course, the heated bed. Does anyone know where I could find a monstrosity like that? Alternately I was considering linking four CR-10S-5 heatbeds together, but it would have ridiculous PSU requirements and probably need two outlets.

Again with the heated bed, I need some sort of build surface that is 1 meter in X and Y axes. I prefer glass coated with an ultrabase coating or similar, though flexible plates are also an option.

Edit 1:
Thanks to everyone who has responded since the original post. The concept has evolved since then:
IDEX platform with dual E3D V6 Gold hotends and 5015s for cooling.
MGN12 linear rails on X and Y axes, with linear rods for the Z.
The X and Y axes will move up and down via four ball screws and four steppers synced with a belt.
A BLTouch or similar sensor will be mounted on one of the print heads for ABL, but the bed will use 3-point leveling and level itself to the nozzle.
Each hotend will have a Zesty Nimble RDD mounted on it.
The aluminum buld plate will be custom machined from AW5083 aluminum to stay flat. Alternately I've been considering steel, though I don't know how that would handle thermal expansion.
The total motors I'm looking at are:
Two leveling motors for the heatbed (I'm using 3 point leveling and the 3rd point will be the reference for the Z offset)
Four Z motors
Two X motors
One Y motor
Two extruder motors
Total is 11 motors. I'm also tempted to add an MMU to one of the hotends which would bring the count up to 13.
An Odroid XU4 will be connected to three RAMPS boards via Klipper to handle the stepper requirements. The Pi 3 or zero are also options, but I would like to have slicing built into the machine, assuming Klipper can do this. If not I'll probably have a Zero running Klipper with an XU4 connected to it and sending over the sliced files.

Update 2:
I've decided that an IDEX system is interesting but not optimal. Instead, I'm going to make a toolchanger similar to E3D's, but not using their motion system. It looks like I'm going to need another RAMPS board!

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3D Systems Cubify Ekocycle Open Source rebuild

by ndisalvo

I am rebuilding the Cubify Ekocycle for many reasons. First, the extruder is super proprietary. Each filament cartridge has its own nozzle attached to it. The cartridges have chips in them to make sure that the only filament used it their brand (which is $50 for less than a kilogram). Also there is no endstops! The printer moves to home by running the steppers further than necessary and making a terrible grinding noise. I set out to replace all of the annoying bits and upgrade it. I am setting it up to run on ramps 1.4 with marlin. I am replacing all of the parts except for the bed, frame, and steppers.
This is the parts list:

Power inlet and switch:
https://www.amazon.com/URBEST-Module-Switch-Socket-IEC320/dp/B00ME5YAPK/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=power+plug&qid=1553972931&s=industrial&sr=1-7

Endstops:
https://www.amazon.com/SDTC-Tech-Mechanical-Endstop-Makerbot/dp/B07NRHKHDK/ref=sr_1_35?crid=PZBO8A0GOW5B&keywords=mechanical+endstop&qid=1553960745&s=gateway&sprefix=mechanical+ends%2Caps%2C137&sr=8-35

Ramps 1.4, Arduino Mega, and LCD
https://www.amazon.com/kuman-Printer-Controller-Arduino-Starter/dp/B016D6DSBW/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Power supply: (no heated bed so only 10A is needed)
https://www.amazon.com/LEDMO-Switching-Converter-Adapter-Transformer/dp/B01E6RMASC/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3N2IPSOJ1RKEE&keywords=12v%2B20%2Bamp%2Bpower%2Bsupply&qid=1553960850&s=electronics&sprefix=12v%2B20%2Bam%2Celectronics%2C138&sr=1-5&th=1

Direct Drive Extruder:
https://www.amazon.com/Redrex-Assembled-Extruder-MakerBot-Printer/dp/B01LB7PJHO/ref=pd_sbs_0_13?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01LB7PJHO&pd_rd_r=3d780baa-5c4f-11e9-a5e3-97ef2fc066fe&pd_rd_w=A7sZ7&pd_rd_wg=oy05R&pf_rd_p=588939de-d3f8-42f1-a3d8-d556eae5797d&pf_rd_r=R99M53KETJE1JQSTE48K&psc=1&refRID=1QQYMMP5CD65143DAT57

Other Parts:
Tons of zip ties
Power cord from a computer
Fans from computer (in addition to salvaged cubify fans)

One tip for anyone that wants to do this-- taking apart the stock plastic case is very difficult. You need 2 hex bit sizes and a small star bit. If you can't get it apart don't be afraid to destroy the plastic case to get it off. It is pretty much impossible to put it back on because the ramps and extruder will not fit

More details and design files will be posted along with pictures once the rebuild starts. I am waiting on the parts to make the mounting brackets.

3D Systems Ekocycle Ramps 1.4 RepRap
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I present you the MK2 ALU!!

by Durandile

Hi everybody,

It's a first post for me here:

I want to introduce my new printer: the MK2 ALU that I have finally finished after more than a year of work:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3036175
It is based on an aluminum frame, so it is highly customizable.
I've tried to document this project as much as possible to allow anybody to build this.

I hope that you'll like it

Durandile

3D printer MK2 ALU
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More 3D printed 3D printers

by proto-plastik

Check out the latest micro-manufactured 3D printer effort from Proto-Plastik:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3579018

No, this isn't for everyone. Yes, you could by a CR-10 and have the same-ish print volume.

But this is in the spirit of Rep-Rap Rapid Replication!

Proto-Plastik 444
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Anet A8 with Titan Aero extruder print issues.

by AdrianW

His all,

I need some help. I am getting this lumps that show up. It looks like I'm printing great until the effector needs to start retracting and moving to a different spot. I am printing with PETG at 240deg C, E3D Titan Aero extruder, Anet A8.

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SLS Hotends sucess?

by Monomethylhydrazine

Has anyone had any success SLSing hotends? I've always wanted to try and I designed myself a small little hotend. I'm planning on ordering it off All3DP hotend service and I'm wondering if anyone has had any experience and would be willing to share their knowledge.

I've included the cad of my design

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Nozzle and bed temperature

by rafaelc97

I have an issue with temperatures, my printer does not "obey" the temperatures set in the slic3r for neither the nozzle nor the bed. No matter how I change the settings, it always goes to 230°C and 65°C. I think it has something to do with the Marlin firmware, however, I don't know how to change it. I used the "M303 E0 S230 C8" and "M303 E-1 S90 C8" commands on g-code, to calibrate the PID, maybe it has something to do with it.

Also, sorry for any grammar mistakes, english is not my first language :/

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3D printer heating issues-- showing at temp, 30 degrees less

by Monomethylhydrazine

I'm having issues with my e3D v6 old style heater block with this thermistor: https://gulfcoast-robotics.com/products/2017-version-hex-screw-in-m3-ntc3950-100k-thermistor-3d-printer-extruder-hotend

when it claims to be at 200 Celsius, it is read to be at ~160-170 on a multimeter thermistor. In firmware, I ran PID autotune, changed temp sensor to Marlin 11, and have raised the max temp to 300 like the thermistor can reach. How can I solve this?

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