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I picked up a T320

by madmike8

I’ve been pretty happy with my Pxmalion Corei3, so I decided to buy the T320. I don’t think I’m going to build it as is though, I’m mainly gonna strip it for it’s parts and rebuild it with an aluminum extrusion frame. I already have a DIY CR10 clone frame, and I’m going to take the T320 parts and make a Crearibo https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3143998

I will post my progress and results as I build it.

Crearibo Creality CR-10 Conversion to Linear Rods v1
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I made a Prusa style X carriage.

by madmike8

I made a Prusa style X carriage for the Corei3. It should let you use any mount that will bolt to a Prusa X carriage. I also made a similar belt holder for the Bed carriage. For me it’s easier to get the belts tighter and doesn’t use zip ties. The down side is it needs screws that don’t come stock in the kits spares... you will also need bed spring spacers and longer bed screws to raise the bed a bit if you want to use the stock Z endstop. They do function great. My Corei3 is printing great now. I just need to remount the electronics box in the back and mount the 24v 10a power supply.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3736660

Pxmalion Corei3 Universal X Carriage
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Im making some changes to the Pxmalion Core i3 as im building it

by madmike8

I picked up the Core i3 on Amazon for $99 (now I see it for $89). I’m making some changes as I’m building it. I made a x carriage for a E3D v6 clone hotend, and converted the extruder to use in a Bowden setup. When I measured my X rod spacing I found them to be 39.6mm (a bit odd, but whatever). I created the carriage to use 3x LM8UU bearings like a Prusa uses. It moves a lot easier than the stock carriage did. I might convert the Y axis plate to LM8UU’s too in the future. I might also create a Titan/v6 direct drive version of the carriage since it’s easy to replace now. To achieve the 224mm spacing for the Z axis uprights I created a printed spacer that locks in to the 2040 rail to help align it all.

If anyone is interested I will post the files.

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Easy Bed Upgrade

by madmike8

I want to be able to print PETG, and I use a bed temp of 80 C when I do. Since I already upgraded the power supply to a 24v 10a 240w this was pretty easy to do. I bought a 24v 95w film heater and stuck it to the bottom of the bed. I’m using the stock bed thermistor and wiring. I also replaced the stock Y Bed bushings with some igus ones.

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