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E1 Heating failed Please reset

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My printer's extruder keeps failing when I preheat the filament, making me manually have to restart the printer. The base temperature for the extruder is -14C. If someone could help me I'd greatly it.

So you ambient temperature is -14c? If thats the case, it's probably the reason it won't heat.
Most firmware has an preset setting of 5c minimum. This means that it will not heat up if the nozzle temp is below this before heating.

What do I take a blow dyer to it XD

YES! or change the code, allowing for a lower minimum temp, and maybe a higher max temp while you are at it, you may also want to check that the little wires to the temp sensor have not broken, and that the resistor or capacitor on the board have not burned out, my original board only lasted about a year of printing, about 80-100 working hours a week. if you are running the Marlin software, then in the Marlin file, there is a configuration.h file, this has the specs listed below:
// The minimal temperature defines the temperature below which the heater will not be enabled It is used
// to check that the wiring to the thermistor is not broken.
// Otherwise this would lead to the heater being powered on all the time.

define HEATER_0_MINTEMP 5

define HEATER_1_MINTEMP 5

define HEATER_2_MINTEMP 5

define HEATER_3_MINTEMP 5

define HEATER_4_MINTEMP 5

define BED_MINTEMP 5

// When temperature exceeds max temp, your heater will be switched off.
// This feature exists to protect your hotend from overheating accidentally, but NOT from thermistor short/failure!
// You should use MINTEMP for thermistor short/failure protection.

define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 275

define HEATER_1_MAXTEMP 275

define HEATER_2_MAXTEMP 275

define HEATER_3_MAXTEMP 275

define HEATER_4_MAXTEMP 275

define BED_MAXTEMP 150

You can modify these to allow for your ambient temperature, but keep in mind, these are degrees Celsius, and the boiling point for water is 100, while the freezing point of water is 0. There is also something to be said for precision of the little tiny resistor in that glass bead, buried inside your heating unit. While a large variance from the actual temperature is acceptable, so the sensor doesn't cost $1000, that variance usually grows outside the expected temperature range of the designed use. so at 50-250 degrees, the variance may be 0.5 degrees, but at -14 the actual temp may by closer to 0. Finding the actual variance outside the manufactured range will take testing and experimentation, fortunately, the sensor us usually about a 100K ohm thermister, and so matching it with another 100k ohm resister, and then using a multi-meter and a 9V battery, you can set up a similar version of how the board measures the temp, and see where the sensor varies beyond value. this may also help you to evaluate if the wires are shorted out. this link may be helpful: https://www.kitronik.co.uk/blog/how-a-thermistor-works/

That would work. Just be careful not to melt anything around it and keep an eye on your hotend temp on the display.
Is it really -14c where you print? I'd have a hard time being that cold for more than a few minutes.
Is this a new printer that has had this problem from the start? I'm only asking in case there may be other problems too.

No, I've been printing fine for the past few days. This just started I had the printer out in my garage where I was printing, and I decide to move it upstairs and this was the outcome. I'll see if I cant heat up the extruder with a blow dyer of sort

Hang on. Your bed temp says 23c but the hotend says -14c. That suggests that there is a broken wire on the hotend thermistor. Heating it up will NOT work.
This is why I asked if -14 was the real ambient temp?

Ok I took off the hot end case and removed the wires from the heating port. How do I know which wire is shorting? Multimeter?

Just had another look, it looks like your thermistor is the one to the left and up from the heater screw terminals.
With the printer powered off, unplug that 2 pin plug and measure the resistance between the 2 wires with a multimeter.
I'm expecting either a dead short (no resistance) or and open circuit (infinite resistance). Either will prove that either the wires are broken/shorted or the thermistor failed.

The 2 red wires look like they are the heater wires. The thermistor will have 2 wires that go down to the hotend next to the heater. I dont know what printer or board you have so can't tell you exactly which connections it will be. If you can take a pic showing more of the board in you last message, I might be able to identify which it is.

Is the thermistor the one I'm pointing to with the screw driver? I have a ADIMLab 3D Printer Gantry-S Prusa i3.

Yep that's the one!

You got it. What readings did you get?