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Recent Topics

Toshiba FlashAir 64GB SD card ok?

by Haku3D

I got a 64GB Toshiba FlashAir card today, after much faffing about with configuration settings (big thanks to Michal Altair Valasek for this page https://blog.prusaprinters.org/easy-wireless-printing-with-flashair-sd-cards/) and having to download software to specifically format it to FAT32, it is now plugged into my Prusa i3 Mk3 and I can access its contents as a network drive from this laptop to copy STL files onto without ever unplugging it again. Yay! :)

But, I was wondering, can the i3 Mk3 handle the full 64GB or should I change its partition size to just under 32GB?

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PETG Help Needed

by Dr-Worm

First off, let me just say I do not own a Prusa i3, I do however own a Monoprice Maker Select V2. I know it is not nearly as high quality as the Prusa, but the design is based on it. This is my first time printing with PETG, I have had a ton of successful prints using PLA. I was attempting to print https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3495390 but I already was having trouble just with the prints skirt. So I switched to a more troubleshooting friendly print, benchy,

I had to tweak a lot of settings just to get the PETG to print. My printer had a lot of trouble sticking the first layer to the build plate (I am using the default heated metal bed). It also had some trouble with globbing up in certain spots. Once it did stick, I felt that the speed of the print was way too fast, but I let it continue because it was printing alright. As you can see from the print, everything is super jaggy and there is a lot of stringing.

My settings are:

Layer Height - 0.2 mm
Wall Thickness - 0.8 mm

Infill Density - 40% (I can take that down)

Printing Temp - 245 c
Printing Initial Temp - 250 c
Build Plate Temp - 85 c
Flow - 100%

Retraction Distance - 1.5 mm
Retraction Speed - 35 mm/s
Retraction Minimum Travel - 0.8 mm

Print Speed - 35 mm/s
Travel Speed - 80 mm/s
Initial Layer Speed - 10 mm/s

Fan Speed - 50 %

Thank you so much for your help!

Cute Mini Octopus
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Smart 3D printer enclosure - updates!

by JKSniper

Hey guys! Have you already seen this DIY customizable enclosure for 3D printer? It's one of the most loved enclosure on FB groups! I use it now for 2.5 years with almost 3000h of print time and it's still in perfect shape and it totally changed the way I work around the printer. Filaments are there and they are dry, printer is silent, there is no more plastics fumes and smell, there is no more PETG/ABS warping, there is no more dust around the printer, every visitor checks it out because of the fancy lights and printer is so easy to manipulate that way. Do you guys use enclosures too?

Universal 3D Printer Smart Enclosure
3030 3d_printer_enclosure aluminium_profile electronics_enclosure enclosure extrusion filament filament_holder Filament_Storage smart
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Prusa i3 MK3 Kit

by JaphethHampton98

I'm thinking about getting a kit for the Prusa i3 MK3 and was wondering what everyone else thought about it. Specifically two things. 1) As an amateur with no real technical knowledge would I be able to do this? I have an Anycubic i3 Mega which I've replaced the stepper drivers, fans, and hotend and I have a Tevo Tornado which I've done nothing to, but that's the extent of my experience in areas like this. 2) If I were to get it are there any recommended upgrades which I should go ahead and plan on installing while I'm putting it together so that I don't have to take it back apart later.

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Unsatisfactory prints @ high resolution

by ghstgry

I'm printing some of Syllogy's amazing mechs for Battletech and I'm not getting quite the results I want. Pictured is my most recent print of the Quickdraw (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3652609). It was printed on a Mk3 with a 0.25mm nozzle @ .15mm resolution. My support settings are at 20°, with 3mm spacing. I'm using Hatchbox grey PLA at 205°.

The problem is all those "loops" on the bottom of the mech's surfaces, especially under the right arm and chest but also the antennae. I can't decide if that's happening because I've got it too hot or not supported enough or printing too fast or what. Also, the feet literally just popped off of the model as I was removing the supports. I honestly didn't take much effort for the feet to come off, which implied to me that the joint never really bonded. I could see a miniature like a skeleton being fragile, but not a big ol' battlemech.

Any thoughts on what I can do to improve print quality here? It's around a 4 hour print, so I'd prefer to not play guessing games if I can. :)


QKD-4G Quickdraw for Battletech
by Syllogy
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