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MakerBot Print is our newest print-prepration software, which supports native CAD files and STL assemblies,
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Recent Topics

Head ruined! What do I do next?

by ManiacDan

A LONG time ago, a failed print completely wrecked my i3 mk2. The plastic got wrapped around the nozzle and it pumped about half a pound of plastic into a bubble that encompassed the nozzle, the wiring, and the bottom third of the print head. I finally got the little ball of plastic off the nozzle (see attached) and now I'm left with:

What do I do now? Do I need a whole new print head? If so, how difficult is that? I bought this assembled on purpose because I'm terrible at fine motor stuff. Will I even be able to fix this?

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Prusa i3 MK3 Kit

by JaphethHampton98

I'm thinking about getting a kit for the Prusa i3 MK3 and was wondering what everyone else thought about it. Specifically two things. 1) As an amateur with no real technical knowledge would I be able to do this? I have an Anycubic i3 Mega which I've replaced the stepper drivers, fans, and hotend and I have a Tevo Tornado which I've done nothing to, but that's the extent of my experience in areas like this. 2) If I were to get it are there any recommended upgrades which I should go ahead and plan on installing while I'm putting it together so that I don't have to take it back apart later.

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PETG Help Needed

by Dr-Worm

First off, let me just say I do not own a Prusa i3, I do however own a Monoprice Maker Select V2. I know it is not nearly as high quality as the Prusa, but the design is based on it. This is my first time printing with PETG, I have had a ton of successful prints using PLA. I was attempting to print https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3495390 but I already was having trouble just with the prints skirt. So I switched to a more troubleshooting friendly print, benchy,

I had to tweak a lot of settings just to get the PETG to print. My printer had a lot of trouble sticking the first layer to the build plate (I am using the default heated metal bed). It also had some trouble with globbing up in certain spots. Once it did stick, I felt that the speed of the print was way too fast, but I let it continue because it was printing alright. As you can see from the print, everything is super jaggy and there is a lot of stringing.

My settings are:

Layer Height - 0.2 mm
Wall Thickness - 0.8 mm

Infill Density - 40% (I can take that down)

Printing Temp - 245 c
Printing Initial Temp - 250 c
Build Plate Temp - 85 c
Flow - 100%

Retraction Distance - 1.5 mm
Retraction Speed - 35 mm/s
Retraction Minimum Travel - 0.8 mm

Print Speed - 35 mm/s
Travel Speed - 80 mm/s
Initial Layer Speed - 10 mm/s

Fan Speed - 50 %

Thank you so much for your help!

Cute Mini Octopus
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Toshiba FlashAir 64GB SD card ok?

by Haku3D

I got a 64GB Toshiba FlashAir card today, after much faffing about with configuration settings (big thanks to Michal Altair Valasek for this page https://blog.prusaprinters.org/easy-wireless-printing-with-flashair-sd-cards/) and having to download software to specifically format it to FAT32, it is now plugged into my Prusa i3 Mk3 and I can access its contents as a network drive from this laptop to copy STL files onto without ever unplugging it again. Yay! :)

But, I was wondering, can the i3 Mk3 handle the full 64GB or should I change its partition size to just under 32GB?

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