Loading

MakerBot Print is our newest print-prepration software, which supports native CAD files and STL assemblies,
allows you to interact with all your printers via the Cloud, and many other exciting new features.

Download Now

Recent Topics

Is anyone still using this printer?

by supercowpoopman

I am just wondering if this printer is still being in use for everyone in this group? After getting better printers, I will say, mine has been moved to the corner of the bench, still used but rarely.

View Comment

MI PRIMER IMPRESORA

by ELMAGNA

LA ACABO DE COMPRAR NO ES QUE PONES EH IMPRIME TENES QUE ESTARLE ENCIMA ME DOY CUENTA... PERO PARA LOS PRIMEROS PASOS CREO QUE ES LA QUE VA, ALGUN CONSEJO MUCHACHOS?

View Comment

PrintRite-Cura Settings and other simple mods

by VexDetrause

Through trial and error I think I found a setting that I am satisfied with. Some tips and mods below.

My Printer! http://i.imgur.com/u6yiCCB.jpg

This is my settings. You can download and load the profile to Cura.

Tips:
Bed Leveling:

  • The Print-Rite base will twist with uneven table so I bought Ikea's LACK and prop the table to the wall to decrease shaking.
  • I find that manually turning the right Z-stepper motor while the printer is OFF/unplugged is the easiest way to adjust the bed. Pic: http://i.imgur.com/FL4Eb0V.jpg
  • With the Ikea table I find the bed's front to back to be level most of the time. Sometimes I only needed to raise it by adding a post-it note thickness.

Bad Prints

  • I find that most of the printing mistakes is solved by slowing down the printer - 20mm/s.

Printer origin

  • The back left of the bed is the nearest to 0:0 and in Cura it's the black line XYZ indicator while slicing.

String of plastic at the start of the print (I'm still trying to fix this one by software or by a hack)

  • There is always a small string of plastic that would stick on the first layer. I usually just clean it out as it's printing out the brim.

Simple mods:
Bed: I feel like the screw heads on the original bed are a little depressed so I added a plywood that I know is flat then use the blue tape.

Z axis end-stop calibration screw: Because of the increase height of the plywood bed I needed to extend the z axis screw. I printed a standoff spacer or a cylinder, warmed it up with a heat gun then rotate the screw in. Viola! A threaded spacer.

Adjusted X and Y end-stop switch: I wanted for the 0:0 to be right on the corner of my bed so I moved the X and Y switch closer. I printed some switch holders and fixed it on the metal rods.

LACK Ikea table: The printer is almost as wide as LACK table so if you put an enclosure like I did it might be a tight fit. The concern is the Y stepper motor touching the sides.

Octoprint with Raspberry pi 2: Very convenient specially with a webcam.

So far no major mishaps yet with my printer.

View Comment

New Nozzle

by skrivarekonto

Hi, i want to change nozzle on my colido DIY, no modifications has been made to the hotend. I tried a Mk10 Hardened Steel, but it didnt fit. I can't find any information on the Mk of the standard nozzzle. Do any of you guys know?
Thanks!

View Comment

Printrite diy upgrade to ramps 1.4 thermistors

by NextPeakMaker

Can't seem to get either the hotend or the bed thermistors to respond. Hot end reads positive 26 degrees. It heats up but the display stays at 26 - seems it would keep heating until it burned down my flat... heat bed shows -26, doesn't heat up at all. Using the firmware uploaded by shawdreamer. Changed the thermistor tables to 11 as I'm using 3950 1% thermistors. Checked the resistance of the thermistors and its normal. If I disconnect the thermistors, I then get a min temp error on the lcd. Can anyone help?

View Comment