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MakerBot Print is our newest print-prepration software, which supports native CAD files and STL assemblies,
allows you to interact with all your printers via the Cloud, and many other exciting new features.

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Recent Topics

Latest Marlin on Overlord Pro

by ruzki

Hi!
does anybody got the latest Marlin running on the DreamMaker Overlord?
I have tried to get it working but still got some problems:

  • OLED Display is shifted by two columns to the left
  • SD Card Menu is slow
  • Marlin Menu is very slow
  • Buttons are reacting slow
  • RGB light ist not working correctly, for now green light is always on.

I have made a repository on GitHub: https://github.com/ruzki/Marlin-1.1-4.x-to-Overlord

Maybe somebody has done this already and got everything working well...

dreammaker_overlord Marlin overlord
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Is this printer now dead?

by chrisdug

Hi,
I find that I have not used my Overlord for about 6 months - I use my ProSpec (makerbot clone) for everything now. I have some parts I was going to use to upgrade the printer, but with no forum at the MFG anymore - it just seems not worth it. Is there any functioning forum left for this printer? Has anyone ever come up with correctly functioning firmware or at least got an open sourced version that can be edited?
I think I can fix the mechanical issues but without support for firmware - just not worth it.

Is anyone else still using their printer? Have you found firmware solutions?

Thanks!
Doug

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Reviving my Overlord Pro

by Gadgetman

Since my WanHao i3 is being rebuilt,and realised that I'm without large 3D printing capability(My Kudo3D Bean is in the miniscule category) I've decided to revive my Overlord Pro.
(It was parked after one of the stepper drivers died. And no DFRobot doesn't sell them any more. )

I don't need the backup battery tech(and never really saw much use for it, really, as it didn't restart a print after a power loss, just waited for you to manually select it, and by then it had probably cooled own too much for it to be any use. And besides, I have a proper Online UPS these days... )

the display and SD-card reader would be nice to reuse, but they weren't really that important.
(I can always set up a spare Raspberry Pi with Octoprint. I think there's one in the iBox Nano printer I have somewhere... )

I want the revive to also be an upgrade, because why not?
Anything worth doing is worth overdoing!

So I've orderd a Panukott Azteeg 5 GT card (120MHZ 32bit ARM) with 4x SD6128 drivers capable of 128 microsteps...
(Similar to a Smoothieboard, and runs the same Smoothieware Firmware)

The old card(v1.1) was an Arduino Mega2560 clone running 16MHz with an 8bit mCU, and I'm guessing the DRV8825 drivers did 16x or possibly 32x microsteps?

I think that the new electronics should be a bit of an improvement...

I noticed that on the DFRobot site there's an aluminium hot end plate, and even an E3D (I think) hot-end upgrade that's supposed to be lighter than the original.
Any of that that's worth throwing money after, or are there better stuff somewhere else?

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Leveling bed correctly? How tight should belts be?

by RossumEcho

Is there a trick to somehow leveling this printer?

I have issues with uneven bed, and it seems no matter what I do I can't seem to get it level.

Auto leveling: garbage, it completely scrapes my bed.

I've tried manual leveling where I've measured all 3 sides with a caliper and used the screws to make sure they are the same height (say, they are all at 2 cm height), and then using the manual calibration function on the printer to print the test circle, and then levelling the nozzle up/down. While this is better than auto leveling, the circle is still uneven.

I've also tried using a leveling tool in the centre until everything is at 0 degrees horizontally at every angle to no avail either.

Every time I try to adjust a screw, it seems the opposite side is affected and isn't straight either, and then I adjust that side and so forth and it still will get a slanted circle.

I've thought maybe it's the belts and tried tightening them. I still have no idea when it's too tight... all the manual says is "Screw it clockwise to fasten the belt until it reaches the state shown below" which is completely useless as it does a frontal view, of the screw....

I'm at my wits end. Does anyone have a tried and true method to get an even print on all sides?

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Overlord Mainboard source

by ruzki

Since the Overlorad board with its Atmega2560 seems underpowered for Marlin 2.0 and graphical display, I'm thinking about to make a version with LPC1768 chip.
Does somebody got source files of the Overlord electronics?

Georg

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