MakerBot Print is our newest print-prepration software, which supports native CAD files and STL assemblies,
allows you to interact with all your printers via the Cloud, and many other exciting new features.
I noticed in my recents prints that the hotend temperature cycle from 212 to 218°C when set to 215°C.
Is that acceptable ?
I feel like it's the case since I change the heater cartridge (for a basic one buyed on amazon). Could the cartridge be the suspect ?
Or is there a calibration needed ?
Thanks for you advices.
The heater cartridge is probably just a different quality, assuming you got one with the same wattage as the original.
As others have said, simply retuning your PID is likely to solve the variations.
My MK2 only varied by about 1c, but being a perfectionist, I tuned the PID and since then it only wanders 0.5c at most.
I do also have the E3D sock on it, which was installed before PID tuning, obviously. I like them because they keep the hotend clean.
Thanks for your reply.
I did it, but just in case : did you know how to force both airfan on ? During the pid calibration, only the hotend fan run. So I got the problem during 2nd layer, when the other fan starts...
I'd like to do the pid calibration with both fan...
It depends how you do the PID calibration, I use OctoPrint over the network.
Simply set the part cooling fan to 100% then send the PID command.
If you are doing it directly on the printer, set the part cooling fan to 100% then do the PID callibration.
As Wirlybird has said, put the original fan duct back on. The fan duct will have a huge effect on the airflow and therefore on the hotend temp too. I would also replace the Amazon heater cartridge with a genuine Prusa / E3D one.
The fan should not affect the hot end. If you have changed the stock fan outlet then that can be an issue.
Yes, I've changed the fan outlet :)
Then that is where I'd look first. Put the original back on and run the PID and see how it goes. That will confirm the new heater is working ok.
I changed to one of the ducts someone made and it had a really adverse effect on the temps. Basically a poor design since it actually blew on the hot end and nozzle. I had to run the fan much slower.
Didn't like that and went back to the original.
Someone on here has made on similar to the original but with better flow and I think it works fine.
I agree run PID calibration. After calibrating my I3 Mk3 I now only have hot end temp. variation of about +/- .1 - .2 Deg. C. as reported by Octoprint.
As Wirly bird said, run PID calibration.
I would say it is highly suspect since you've noticed this after a change.
Try doing a PID tune in the calibration menu and see if it helps.