MakerBot Print is our newest print-prepration software, which supports native CAD files and STL assemblies,
allows you to interact with all your printers via the Cloud, and many other exciting new features.
I've recently gotten a Monoprice Mini Select Pro printer to replace my previous printer. In all other respects it's been an amazing improvement over my previous printer, but I'm having difficulty removing prints from the bed, even with using rafting. Does anybody have any suggestions about settings I could change that could make prints easier to remove?
If you know of a topic where this has been discussed already, please feel free to link it if you happen to know where it is. I've been having trouble with Thingiverse lately, particularly with their search function.
I'm using Simplify3D as my slicer, and PLA is the material.
EDIT: Thanks, everyone, for the feedback you've been giving me! It's been educational to learn the different methods everyone uses, and the differences between the various versions.
try using a sprits of hair spray on the bed or use some a glue stick and put a thin layer of the glue on the pad and if you are dedicated enough you can even upgrade to a glass bedand the glue sticks will work better on the glass bed.
I have the Monoprice Select Mini V1 (I've had it since that was new ;P) and I've found the best solution to be wide painters/masking tape with Elmer's glue to be the best solution for print surface (and it's super cheap). Another possible issue, however, could be your bed leveling. I've found that it's best to adjust all the screws to the point were a standard business card easily slides between the nozzle and bed. Then I have increased my 1st layer height (advanced setting in Cura) to 0.35mm (with 0.4mm nozzle) but I'm not sure what that would translate to in Simplify 3D. Hope that helps!
The pro version autolevels on the extruder side of the equation, and does not have the screws for levelling the bed. They really changed things from one version to another. The 1st layer height suggestion might work, though. If it continues to be a problem I might cover the plate with painter's tape, but i figure it has build-tac for a reason.
I see, glad I could give u another idea, and that's interesting...I didn't realize it came with build-tac that's probably better than masking tape ;P
All of the other routes work fine, but if you don't want to spend money, just lower your bed level. Trust me, the perfect height isn't too hard to get.
Thanks! I'm experimenting with adjusting the bed height with the separation adjustment section of the auto-adjust.
I cant recommend a removable flex plate high enough. You can use a pre-made setup like what profab offer or just get your own flex plate from buildtak and then you can even make it double sided, PEI and Builtak for example. Then just clip on, and when you finish your print, remove the bed and bend the plate, the print pops off cleanly. Life changing.
So I've seldom had an issue with print sticking to hard to the plate. I always use a swiss knife and insert the blande in between the print and the plate from the right, while doing that I also try to gently lift the print at the same time with the blade feeling if it gives. If the print is stuck and won't budge I heat up the bed to 50 degrees and then repeat. Never had an issue and print is still working.
I'm using the stock build plate on a V2 model with PLA and I find that, if the model is very short with nothing to grip onto, it can be quite tricky to remove. At a local surplus store, I picked up a metal dentist's pick to help pry prints from the bed. It works pretty good. In one case, though, I threw a model into ThinkerCAD and added a small post I could use to pull the print from the build plate. (I made the post small enough that I could easily cut it off afterward.)
I forget where I read it, but someone suggested turning DOWN the build plate's temperature by 5 to 10 degrees. Their reasoning was that the plate was too hot and it caused the PLA to adhere more. I tried this but I didn't really see much of an improvement. I've also heard that, when using PLA, you don't even need to heat the build plate but I'm no expert and I've never tried this.
With a glass bed glazed in dried, dilluted wood glue. I have a lot of success removing stuck prints with a cheapo 1in wood chisel from WalMart
Does using a glass bed interfere with the auto leveling feature?
Unfortunately I can't say since I have the Mini V2 which does not have auto leveling. (Sorry I did not read that the OP and likely you own a MP Mini Pro) What I can say is that adding a glass bed to my printer did in fact make the build surface too tall initially, so that even with the leveling screws bottomed-out the print head still wanted to dig into the print surface. If that happens you have to print out what's known as a Z-spacer, this is the one I used for my printer in particular: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1808029
The spacer should be the equivalent of the thickness of the glass you add. Then when you attach it to your printer the spacer will make-up the difference of the added height of the glass bed when your printing arm touches the Y-axis limit switch.
I imagine this process would be somewhat similar to an auto-leveled bed but please ask around/research this before taking my word for it.
Actually I have a V1. I got it several years ago just to see if I would be interested in 3D printing. I use glass with Aquanet hairspray. When the bed is heated, I can print something 86mm high but only 1.9mm wide without it being knocked over. But when the bed cools down to room temperature, it falls over with a slight touch. I printed several Z-spacers. If you ever tear your hot end apart, the distance between nozzle tip and build plate can change. Replacing the nozzle with another with more thread will do that also.
An auto leveling machine does what you do with an allen wrench and those four screws at the corners of the bed. It raises and lowers the corners of the bed to keep the nozzle the same distance off the bed no matter where it is over the bed when printing. That's way easier than what we have to go through.
I switched to a PEI plate and haven't regretted it. Almost destroyed my original plate attempting to remove prints (partly due to inexperience, partly due to the crappy print removal tool supplied)
I do the same as Loph. I have a dedicated cheap medium sized (about 6 inchs) kitchen knife that I use to remove prints. I print on glass though. If the print bottom covers a large surface area, I will let it cool to about 30 degrees before popping it off the glass. it still requires a bit of force but I'd rather do this than discover a ball of plastic stuck to my nozzle.
Are you using the original material on the bed? I still have mine on there and I have very little trouble removing prints after letting the bed cool down to room temperature. Afterwards I take a (dedicated) kitchen knife and slide it under the print and tilt it slightly so I can slide it further and further until the print comes off.
I'm using the original material on the bed, and I use a Toybuilder Labs 3D print removal spatula to remove the prints. It's been requiring enough force that I've actually started bending the spatula.
I don't know if I've been letting it cool long enough. I'm still new to having a heated print bed.
ive noticed this when i do long prints. they get particularly hard to remove after sitting for a long period of time. i recommend heating up the bed and it is significantly easier. i do recommend using blue masking tape as a print surface as its pretty much the same material as the original surface cover