Hello everybody, sorry we have not been here for a while, but we are glad that all of you joined our group! I hope that we can share advice, and show everybody all the cool things that be built!
GeneralDiscuss on the "General" forum for the Monoprice Maker Select V2 group on Thingiverse.
I have a MMSv2. Have read about ADVi3++ for the Select Plus (Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus).
Seems like there are a lot more options in it than in the stock board: make a nice upgrade until I get into RAMPS.
So, I have to flash the LCD board first and then the mainboard, using an SD card through the LCD board. (according to online instructions).
However, the LCD board in mine doesn't have the requisite SD card slot that is needed to flash the LCD and the firmware.
So, my question(s) is(are): can I simply replace the LCD in my Select with the different LCD from a Select Plus so as to upgrade to ADVi3++?
If so, does that technically make my Select a Select Plus?
Has anyone done this?
If so, are you happy with the expanded menu capabilities?
Thanks all, just looking for the collective knowledge of the group.
No worries about fitment, I'm just looking to know if it will work.
Hi. I recently purchased a used Monoprice Maker Select and I am starting the standard upgrades. I purchased a new Y carriage plate and starting searching for some quality LM8LUU bearings. Misumi's are a bit more than I want spend and after that most bearings I have seen for sale seem to be generic chinese bearings. I found Vxb sells them for 9.99 a piece. I have had good luck Vxb bearing in the past, I use them in my wood working machines. The only thing that has me curious is that the Vxb LM8LUU bearings say that they have 4 ball circuits. I assume this means that there will be four points of contact with the smooth rod. Is this adequate for 3d printers or do I need to keep looking. Also if anybody has a recommendation for a quality bearing that would be a great help.
Trying to find if the control board would support a foam 4 axis cutter. I need to build one and since i haven't used this printer much, i'd like to re purpose the parts for this project. Kindly asking if perhaps someone has done this. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I have a Maker Select v2 and am having some issues I think may be resolved by replacing the extruder gear, but looking online I am unclear what I need..
It looks like these come in 36 and 40 teeth mainly? But I am curious how I can identify what I need?
So I have been just using the Cura that came on the SD card that was included with my Maker Select V2.1. Not sure on the version as it is not labeled anywhere but it seems older. It comes setup for the i3 configuration and has the i3 logo. It is working ok for me but I am wondering if there is any reason to update to the Ultimaker Cura 2 or 3 versions?
So I'm trying to win a contest on MyMiniFactory but it depends on how many likes I get. If you help me win, I can get a new 3d printer. I'm trying to get the prusa i3 mk3 because so of the features are perfect for where I'm moving in like 9 months.
https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-cat-pumpkin-collection-78145 If you don't already have an account (which you should :) ) then it's just as easy as it was for thingiverse
Thank You :D
Hello everyone. I ended up needing to replace my entire hot end (less the fans) and found the autotune PID method inadequate. Being a tech by trade I decided to do it the old fashioned way. There are plenty of PID tuning methods. Mine is not likely the fastest nor fanciest, but it works on a our printers heated nozzle. The method of my madness is simply to try and get a value that doesn't overshoot too badly, stabilizes quickly, and holds stability from against minor changes.
In the printer's menu I have a configuration tab. In there is an extruder tab. In there is a control setting. I changed that to PID.
I zeroed all the values to clear the 100's place as it is only adjustable from the menu on the I setting.
Like most methods I started with the P. I picked a large value and entered it, and saved the eeprom.
Next I picked a temp 5 degrees hotter than I expected to print. Just a preference on my part. Whatever number you pick, stick too it. From the extruder menu (not the configuration->extruder, just the top level one) I set the extruder to the temp.
I watched as it heated up. It heated, overshot the value, then cooled and undershot the value, then heated and overshot again, then began to cool. etc.
My goal at this point was to get the heater to overshoot only once. I like half splitting until I get close, so I cut the P value in half and tried again. Note that for this method 25-30 degrees of cooling is all thats needed to check a new value. So I just turned off the extruder, changed the value, then turned it back on.
I kept decreasing the value if it overshot twice, and increasing it if it did not. Repeat this until you get as close to the breaking point as your patience allows.
Next up I work on the D. This time I was looking to minimize the overshoot. Be aware that there is a sweet spot, to high the overshoot increases, to low and it increases. Follow the same change and check method for the P.
This part is optional, but it can be done several times. I did it once.
You can now decrease the P value a bit and actually further minimize the overshoot. Same rule above applies, too much and it starts increasing. Once you optimize a new P value to minimize overshoot you go back and optimize the D value again.
Once you've done as many iterations of P-D optimizations as you are willing to, allow the temperature to stabilize. It shouldn't take but a few oscillations to get fairly stable (note it never truly stops ringing, it just rings a very small amount).
It should be some value below your desired temperature. This is where the I comes in. I was surprised to find I only needed a VERY small I to get to where I wanted.
To set the I you do not turn off the nozzle, instead you just adjust the I value and watch the temperature. Once the I is not at zero it will start oscillating again. There is a sweet spot here as well. What you want is the I value with the smallest oscillation. Due to the nature of this tuning profile, you can probably just step the I up in increments of 0.01 until you hit it. I did at 0.02.
To verify your tuning, throw the fan on at 100%, it should re-adjust to the previous temperature very quickly with little overshoot. Another verification is to ramp to several temperature levels. You should see a consistent overshoot value and stabilization time.
The reason I picked this tuning is that while the initial overshoot is occurring the printer is likely to be homing, and by the time it goes to print it has stabilized.
TLDR step by step version:
1 Enable PID control and zero everything in Configuration->Extruder
2 Adjust the P value until the extruder only overshoots the set temp once and comes close but does not pass the set temp on the second oscillation.
3 Adjust D value to minimize the overshoot, with the awareness that the overshoots gets worse the further you get from the sweetspot value
4 Optional Re-adjust P to minimize overshoot with sweet spot awareness, then re-adjust D. Repeat as desired.
5 Allow temp to stabilize, increase/decrease I until the extruder's oscillation tightly hugs the set point. Very small value needed.
Happy Tuning! Doing it this way took me a few hours, so be warned.
So to get optimal prints there are specific layer heights that work the most efficient, often referred to as the "magic numbers". Looking around I can only seem to find these for the Mini but not the Maker Select V2.1. Can anyone help me with these or advise me how to find them?