I have a MMSv2. Have read about ADVi3++ for the Select Plus (Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus).
Seems like there are a lot more options in it than in the stock board: make a nice upgrade until I get into RAMPS.
So, I have to flash the LCD board first and then the mainboard, using an SD card through the LCD board. (according to online instructions).
However, the LCD board in mine doesn't have the requisite SD card slot that is needed to flash the LCD and the firmware.
So, my question(s) is(are): can I simply replace the LCD in my Select with the different LCD from a Select Plus so as to upgrade to ADVi3++?
If so, does that technically make my Select a Select Plus?
Has anyone done this?
If so, are you happy with the expanded menu capabilities?
Thanks all, just looking for the collective knowledge of the group.
No worries about fitment, I'm just looking to know if it will work.
I have had the monoprice Maker select 3D printer V2 Model #13860 for a while now. Not thrilled with it but i've gotten it to work for me generally.
Recently i had to replace my ABS roll. Purchased exactly what i had just been using and the darn thing just won't print right for me anymore.
I am getting a really inconsistent output from the extruder.
If the filament is taught (needs to rotate the filament roll) makes it much worse. If i pull the slack for it, that helps for a little while and then occasionally i'll get the inconsistent beading again.
I've messed with ABS for hours and hours. I've messed with PLA for a few hours now too. It gets better if i apply some pressure on the filament to feed it into the extruder body
I've taken apart the extruder / stepper body numerous times to try and figure it out.
Honestly about to just get a new printer unless someone can help me.
My guess is that there isn't enough pressure being applied by the spring to push the filament onto the feeder gear. This unit doesn't have an adjustable tension ability, just a spring.
I will start printing something and some random amount of time later (usually within 5-10 minutes) the printer will go "haywire". The axis never move in tandem with another during this malfunction, they do move incredibly slow however compared to normal printing speed. If during these movements the axis hits a limit switch it will stop in that direction, if there is no limit switch the belt starts jumping on the gear when it runs out of room. If the Z axis starts moving (I have yet to see it try to go down) it usually goes up at least ~10mm.
-Uninterrupted Power Supply (battery back up, will be referred to as UPS from now on) plugged into the wall outlet, and printer plugged into UPS. I figure this is when the problems started, and by now has probably "fried" the circuit board to such an extent it needs replacing.
-Replaced the original circuit board with Mega 2560 + Ramps 1.4 and flashed the it with Arduino (both the original circuit board and new have seen use and both are showing the exact same issue only after the problem initially started. I didn't think to disconnect the UPS when problems started or after I replaced the original circuit board).
Other potentially Important Information
-Slicing program is Simplify 3D
-All designs were pulled from Thingiverse. The object I was attempting to print was a Benchy
I've got it printing petg decent when its pretty much all layers. I went to print something a bit bigger that uses a good bit of infill layers and after it printing my bottom layers i came back and noticed the nozzle was covered in material and clogged. What would cause this issue? Perhaps the nozzle is too close, or a retraction issue?