MakerBot Print is our newest print-prepration software, which supports native CAD files and STL assemblies,
allows you to interact with all your printers via the Cloud, and many other exciting new features.
A forum to exchange tips and tricks used when designing engineering prototypes.
After discovering the challenge of printing on a non heated build plate, it became obvious what some of the problems were.
A clean dust free plate, and the solution was a tacky roller, the one I use is 6" wide.
A sticky plate is achieved by using a glue stick.
Printing with PLA most of the time this works pretty well.
The design consideration is the direction I might print the object. Avoid large open spaces if they are not critical to the function of the object. Ease of remove also a consideration. Using a heated build plate it is best to let it cool down first to room temperature before removing the object.
A cold build plate issue is making it stick, removal is simple, and best or easier if you have provided a edge, radius or chamfer at the bottom, once said you could move the world with a large enough lever, the radius and or chamfer provides that opportunity.
I have been using a cold plate for over a year now, and have had good overall results. I'm using an old 12"x12" bathroom mirror tile that I saved when remodeling one of my bathrooms. It was fabricated 70's or 80's (bought the house in 2002, and it was already there :D). I've been using Elmer's Purple glue sticks with very good success. I keep it on and simply supplement the coating after 10 or so prints or less. It's worked for PLA, ABS with 20-40mm brim, and PETG with 0-5mm brim, depending on the geometry.
I use Slic3r and always set the first layer to 0.3mm, and calibrate the stage to give me 0.25-0.30mm actual first layer.
permision to join..tq